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Pull batts in the summer?--1a draw good for batts w/ solar?

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
I was reading threads here and came across advice that its good to cycle a deep cycle battery once a month? My trailer has (2) 12v batteries and a solar panel that keeps them topped off, regardless of having my battery shut off switch turned off. Is that good or bad? Keep meaning to buy a disconnect for that positive solar wire to make it easy.

Worried this might become super long and confusing. Let me lay out the situation with numbers.

1. 99% of the time i use the the trailer its plugged into shore power.
2. The trailer has solar panels and there is no disconnect between the solar and batteries.
3. I go out of town for weeks and unplug the trailer and also sometimes the solar charging wire.
4. (here comes the root of the question) I installed a fan that pulls 1amp. I want this fan to turn off and on several times a day using a 12v digital timer while im gone.

So that leads to these questions:
1. Should i power the 1amp fan from the main batteries and let the solar keep them charged? Then do a real cycle on the batts once a month or whatever is recommended?

2. Since the trailer is 99% shore power should i pull the batteries out and put them in the cooler garage? Power the 1amp fan from a small independent solar panel? (will actually be set to 0.25amps so a small 10w panel should power it i hope. no digital timer the sunrise and sunset will be the timer)
35 REPLIES 35

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Ebay seller has them for $24 out of the UK shipped to USA. Just bought one will take a few weeks. If anyone reads this and wants one just search Hydro Volt on ebay and at this point in time the seller has sold 619 units.

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Anyone try the Hydro-Volt hydrometer? Cost is around $40 or $50.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkUBffSv2O0

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
I don't understand the part about the hydrometer being on its side.

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
I hoped the EZ option wouldn't suck.
Dag nabbit.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
EZ RED is hideous for accuracy and repeatability. Unacceptable. That kit of roofing tar thick crankcase additive and magic pills for the gas tank will plate new metal on the cylinder walls of my car engine, too. EZ REDs claim is pocus hocus.

A Lexan or pyrex flask skinny and narrow can be used to take several incomplete draws to take a real sample. That way you can lay the hydrometer on it's side and end up with enough electrolyte to work with. The tall skinny cylinder has a very wide base for stability.

The difference in density between 1.200 and 1.285 is not great. To reflect it with an arm would take a jeweled swiss precision mechanism.

I checked then rejected a full factory pallet of "SLEEZE E RED" hydrometers. Having 1.242 batteries read 1.275 and 1.285 batteries read 1.255 is not my BAG

They are made in China and go from final hand fitting of the bulb and tube to the shipping dock without being checked. Save your money for a magic 8 ball fortune telling toy. It will be just as reliable.

REVIEWS
Ding Dong. The package arrives. It is torn open and the gizmo is held up for inspection. Then the buyer rushes to the computer to comment.

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Wow surprised you say that. Ive never seen either in person but after reading reviews it seems like the ez red has advantages. Glad they are only 10 bucks thats awesome. Lots of fun buying new tools!!

Funny because i think my trailer batteries might be sealed.

Is the specific gravity of a charged 12v starting battery for an ATV the same as a deep cycle?

One reason i like the EZred is because of the small tube. They claim it auto compensates for temperature too. One review said he had both styles and they both take a little effort to knock off bubbles and such. He also filled and emptied the fluid a few times to mix it up. Does the battery solution separate?

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
I found the plastic models like the E red would not read the same on teh same cell twice in a row.

I like the OTC 4619 but one needs to ensure there are no bubbles sticking to the float, and to wait several more seconds to let the thermometer feel the electrolyte temperature so one can add or subtact according to what it says.

Generally cells in the middle after charging will be hotter than those on the ends.

The glass float is fragile, Keep the packaging it is shippe in for storage, and rinse it after each use.

If you get an EZ red, they make nice doorstops.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
wopachop wrote:
Excited to get a hydrometer. I see one has an included thermometer. Doesnt have as good of reviews as the EZ RED. (havnt read the reviews yet)

You guys have a model that you like?


This is all that is needed unless you go all white-coat lab standard.
You just want consistent results each time, which this type does for you. Good enough for RV work.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-battery-hydrometer-0113010p.html#srp
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Excited to get a hydrometer. I see one has an included thermometer. Doesnt have as good of reviews as the EZ RED. (havnt read the reviews yet)

You guys have a model that you like?

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
Mismatched marine batteries.

Without temperature compensated floating of fully charged batteries, I'd disconnect them, put them somewhere cool, and top charge them every so often.

as opposed to letting them bake outdoors being fed a constant 13.2v, or whatever the converter or solar tries to hold irregardless of battery temperature.

but they are mismatched marine batteries a few years old.

They likely have quite high self discharge with one worse than the other.

Might not be worth the effort or trying to extend their feeble lifespans.

Just get em full and try to keep them there and nearly full.

If you can't bother with dipping a hydrometer to ensure they are full when the charging source proudly claims so, then fretting over their longevity is obviously not a priority either.

Those of us who have decided to go beyond what a green light tells us, have seen that flooded 12v marine jars require significant coaxing with extended periods at high absorption voltages to achieve 'full' charge, and full is in quotes as even extended absorption durations maximum specif gravity only seems to be achieveable with times spent in the 15.5+v = range, which is an EQ charge.

How many converters actually do 15.5+ volts? One?

The converter companies calling their 14.4v every 21 hours from float stage, an equalization charge, is modern marketing at its most contemptible.

Does destratification mean equalization, as it applies to stages of battery charging. NFW.

Get them full, keep them cool.

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Just looked those up. Getting one for sure.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
When you are convinced...

All Is Right With The World...

Stick a hydrometer in a cell and see if it reads 1.280

Either it does or it doesn't

And if it doesn't, guess who is going to pay for it (?)