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Purging Propane Lines

eddd
Explorer
Explorer
The camper in question has sat unused for possibly 10 years with no tanks attached, just the quick connect lines to the bottles dangling.

The first issue was the regulator. I guess it got fried just baking uncovered for all those years. That has been replaced.

Now I'm having great difficulty getting the stove top burners to light. One will kind of light with a very weak flame. The furnace will not light, and I haven't tried the water heater or refrigerator.

The order of the appliances from the tank back is: refig, heater, stove, water heater.

I've had all the burners wide open trying to get some propane to flow, but all get is the very weak flame that kind of sputters.

I realize there is likely air in the lines and that the heavier than air propane is only coming out of the regulator at 10-12 inches of water, but what am I doing wrong? What should I do differently?
2002 KZ Sportsman Toyhauler
15 REPLIES 15

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
CJW8 wrote:
I understand that manufacturers take shortcuts but usually not on propane systems due to the liability. If they used hose, it is probably because it is in an area where vibration or flexing could occur. I would not replace with copper tubing. Soft copper will fail under vibration or flexing.

I thought about this, and I think this is one of gray areas. There isn't much flexing between the A-frame of hitch and the rest of the frame. Not sure that soft copper could fail under vibration either, haven't heard of this. Stress is a different matter, but where there is no flex, there is no stress.

There "could" be flexing on the regulator end, if it's not mounted properly on the A-frame - they often put it on a flimsy 1/4" thin metal rod. This is the spot that I would have a good look at, if copper tubing is to be used. Make a stress-absorbing loop on that copper tubing - they do this on appliances copper tubes under the frame where stress is a concern.

There also "could" be damage from flying rocks on the road, where rubber hose would flex but copper would be damaged - but then, you already have half a dozen of copper tubes under the frame where it connects to appliances. They don't use rubber hose on those - but they sometimes put plastic cover on copper tubing, to protect it. Btw, I put plastic cover on my rubber hose from regulator to trailer, to protect both from UV and abrasions.

CJW8
Explorer
Explorer
I understand that manufacturers take shortcuts but usually not on propane systems due to the liability. If they used hose, it is probably because it is in an area where vibration or flexing could occur. I would not replace with copper tubing. Soft copper will fail under vibration or flexing.
2003 Forest River Sierra M-37SP Toy Hauler- Traded in
2015 Keystone Raptor 332TS 5th wheel toy Hauler (sold)
2004 Winnebago Vectra. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
I would replace bad hose with a good propane hose with proper connections/fittings on each end to connect to trailer hard piping and regulator output
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

JWRoberts
Explorer
Explorer
Duck wrote:
eddd wrote:
Found the leak, and it was the rubber hose. I'll replace it with copper tomorrow, and I even remember where I stored my flaring tools.

Thanks.


Just my opinion but I would stick with a quality rubber hose.
Don


Agree

JWRoberts
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
I would screw a barbed fitting in each end and clamp a pc of automotive fuel injection in there. It is much better quality hose than any crappy propane hose.


????

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
RJsfishin wrote:
I would screw a barbed fitting in each end and clamp a pc of automotive fuel injection in there. It is much better quality hose than any crappy propane hose.

Maybe it's just me who needs coffee in the morning ;)...
Why would one need a barbed fitting on a copper tubing (not on propane hose), and what is "automotive fuel injection"?

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
I would screw a barbed fitting in each end and clamp a pc of automotive fuel injection in there. It is much better quality hose than any crappy propane hose.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Duck
Explorer
Explorer
eddd wrote:
Found the leak, and it was the rubber hose. I'll replace it with copper tomorrow, and I even remember where I stored my flaring tools.

Thanks.


Just my opinion but I would stick with a quality rubber hose.
Don
08-FORD F350 PSD
13 Bighorn 3055RL {For Sale}

eddd
Explorer
Explorer
Not surprisingly I couldn't smell the leak since it was down by the frame, and the propane traveled to the ground, five feet below my nose.
2002 KZ Sportsman Toyhauler

eddd
Explorer
Explorer
Found the leak, and it was the rubber hose. I'll replace it with copper tomorrow, and I even remember where I stored my flaring tools.

Thanks.
2002 KZ Sportsman Toyhauler

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
eddd wrote:
Would it be OK to just replace it with a copper line?

Yep. Soft copper tubing 3/8 OD.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
You have a leak somewhere.

Rubber hoses don't last long when outside. I covered them with split-loom cable cover, this should help against UV but don't expect it to last forever.

Black iron pipes and Tees corrode too, check them from time to time.

eddd
Explorer
Explorer
Would it be OK to just replace it with a copper line?
2002 KZ Sportsman Toyhauler

eddd
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Replace hose from regulator output to trailer hard pipe.......it is junk


Can you give me a little more info?
2002 KZ Sportsman Toyhauler