Random questions/musings - new batteries, genny, charger...

[seraphim]

The TC came with one 75AH battery. The twin alternators on the truck charge it well, although there is no isolator: if I leave cable connected between the truck and TC, then disconnect the house battery, the battery meter still shows full as it draws power from the truck batteries (diesel has two batters and one 145 amp and one 165 amp alternator). The. House battery is good for overnight; generally we just run the fridge on propane. We borrowed an i2000eu generator, and it appears to take 3+ hours to recharge the house battery from 50%. (120 volts/13.3 amps from the genny) . The meter on the TC appears to suck in terms of accuracy - just uses idiot lights.

What I want do:

Replace the house battery with two or three AGMs, totaling about 300ah to 400ah approximately. Add a decent meter to indicate battery level, and perhaps charging progress. Add a cutoff switch for the house batteries. Not too twigged about the lack of isolator - I just unplug the capable between the truck and camper when I dry camp. I also wonder if the TCs charging system would need to be upgraded or changed for the switch to AGMs and/or the higher capacity; or will the existing setup be sufficient for the batteries to be charged from shore power or genny.


BIL also has a lightly used i2000 to sell me for $600. He had just bought it new, then his new rig came with a built in genny. For another $1k I can buy a companion genny for a total of 4000 (theoretical) watts. Easier to carry the two smaller units, and the flexibility of only carrying one if necessary.

Any knowledgeable folk out there have thoughts or concerns? Seems it should not be a difficult modification, but I'm not sure of the wiring setup for a new meter, nor how good the OEM battery chargers are - are they quality 3 stage, or POS units.

Considering adding about 400 watts of solar panels later.

Any opinions/education would be appreciated. I have basic theory down, but that's far from practical application experience lol.

[seraphim]

Here is an interesting review site. Our local Home Depot carries the Grape brand, and I could pick it up locally with no shipping cost. Looking at the Grape 390 and the Kyocera 315: the Kyocera would be less expensive, and actually put out about 1 more amp when hooked up to a 12 volt system, but I'm not sure if I could find it locally. Shipping cost might make it more expensive than the Grape.

http://solar-panels-review.toptenreviews.com/grape-solar-390w-review.html

Pianotuna

I will mention most things here, but I also have other qualified sources. The 2025-RV was $151, has its own enclosure and does more than I need. The shunt was $28.It was recommended by two sources, one who has been vandwelling for 20 years and installs systems for others (you may know Bob), the second an electrical engineer who designs and repairs systems. Xantrex linklite was also mentioned. But I Also value the experiences of people here, who can tell me what has worked for them. Each has unique experiences in the field, with their own individual requirements.

[JiminDenver]

seraphim wrote:

Some day I'll set up the other half of the system wrote:

Lol I know what you mean. If I install one, then it's just as easy to install two...

My system is portable. It is more than enough flat but I like the ability to park in the shade if I can and tracking can produce a few hundred AH on a good day if I ever need the power.
The second half is a 220w panel that would be separate and handle a second bank or be combined with the first for replacing heavy use like the microwave quickly. Together they would max out over 30a and 420 ah a day tracking.

[mena661]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi seraphim,

I would encourage you to maximize battery capacity--remember you only get to use 50% even with an AGM if you want it to last.

X2, get those two 150Ah AGMs NOW mister!!! :B

JiminDenver wrote:

You might say my whole trailer is a diversified load automatically. The only time it's not at float is over night and those drops to 12.57v are killer. ( LEDs, Furnace, DVD)
It doesn't take long the next morning to get back to float, so by the time we are doing things, the system is running the trailer again.

Voltage drop under load while on solar is something I'll be reporting on in the future after I actually get some solar and larger inverter.

[JiminDenver]

mena661 wrote:

JiminDenver wrote:
That includes fans, TV, furnace and a 12v 200 watt auto drip coffee make that pulled over 16a off the system while the battery held at 13.4v.

I was wondering if something like this would happen. Thanks for mentioning that.

You might say my whole trailer is a diversified load automatically. The only time it's not at float is over night and those drops to 12.57v are killer. ( LEDs, Furnace, DVD)
It doesn't take long the next morning to get back to float, so by the time we are doing things, the system is running the trailer again.

[pianotuna]

Hi Seraphim,

I find it is best to put all items "on the table" here before buying--it has saved my bacon more than once.

seraphim wrote:
Pianotuna

Unfortunately I'd already ordered the tm2025 and shunt. I don't waste time, lol.

[pianotuna]

Hi seraphim,

I would encourage you to maximize battery capacity--remember you only get to use 50% even with an AGM if you want it to last.

[seraphim]

Again, I appreciate all the great responses. I always get good responses here, Ive learend a lot. The battery mo itor should be here Monday - a simple install and we'll take off for Michigan for a week. See how much we actually use and go from there. Due to the smaller roof area of a TC, I want to try to stick with one panel and a 250ah battery. I'll probably want a second battery later - just because I can lol - so ill choose the panel accordingly.


Maybe that 400w 48v Helios panel isnt over the top, after all.

[seraphim]

Some day I'll set up the other half of the system wrote:

Lol I know what you mean. If I install one, then it's just as easy to install two...

[mena661]

JiminDenver wrote:
That includes fans, TV, furnace and a 12v 200 watt auto drip coffee make that pulled over 16a off the system while the battery held at 13.4v.

I was wondering if something like this would happen. Thanks for mentioning that.

[JiminDenver]

seraphim wrote:
Jim

I'm big on overkill lol. I'd rather plan for a worst case scenario. I really don't want to have to run a generator. Only when DWs allergies are really acting up and we need the AC. That should be rarely however.

Oh me too. I hated listening to the generator charging the battery last year. This year the panel has more than covered our needs. We don't use a lot but that's changing. Free power gets you looking at TV options and even the microwave. Once we hit float we can run anything in the trailer without dropping the batteries voltage. That includes fans, TV, furnace and a 12v 200 watt auto drip coffee make that pulled over 16a off the system while the battery held at 13.4v.

Some day I'll set up the other half of the system. 😉

[time2roll]

solarblvd is local to me. Walk in and no shipping.
I would call some local home installers and see if you can get a decent price on a couple of these home panels cash and carry.

[seraphim]

Yea that 230w would work: about 15 amps at 12v. Wow. Shipping almost doubled the price...

[seraphim]

Here's the 400

http://solarsystems-usa.net/solar-panels/helios-solar/9t6-400/#.Ug1YUmt5mK0

[time2roll]

Small 230w for $160, watch the shipping

[seraphim]

Jim

I'm big on overkill lol. I'd rather plan for a worst case scenario. I really don't want to have to run a generator. Only when DWs allergies are really acting up and we need the AC. That should be rarely however.