Relay? Really!

[MEXICOWANDERER]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-200A-Relay-4-Pin-For-Car-Auto-Heavy-Duty-Install-Amp-Chargeover-/2721...

[fj12ryder]

MexicoWanderer, I indulged in a bit of unwarranted sniping early on in this thread for which I wish to apologize. It was unnecessary and totally without worth. I guess I just was being an old curmudgeon. I also apologized on the other thread. Sorry.

[NinerBikes]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
12 volts son, 12 volts meaning direct current. The light bars have built in regulation. 12 24 volt, no switches, connect it and it works. No dimmers no PWM

But just TRY and find a 65-amp T-rated switch. For ergonomics as well as capacity. When switching the light on and off, the throwing of a contact bar on the dash is a bit tough to conceive of.

Control will occur with the switching of high beams. Easy to facilitate. But a relay like this one fills the bill.

Van got whacked by an antelope last week. They cross the highway at night doing forty. Van is totaled, occupants went to the hospital.

Have 1 buss bar on the back, on the switched side, and split the 60 amps on the 2 pole.... 30 amps each.

breaker as a switch.

uh, I think all diodes are DC, once you are done with them, just like rectifiers?

[MEXICOWANDERER]

12 volts son, 12 volts meaning direct current. The light bars have built in regulation. 12 24 volt, no switches, connect it and it works. No dimmers no PWM

But just TRY and find a 65-amp T-rated switch. For ergonomics as well as capacity. When switching the light on and off, the throwing of a contact bar on the dash is a bit tough to conceive of.

Control will occur with the switching of high beams. Easy to facilitate. But a relay like this one fills the bill.

Van got whacked by an antelope last week. They cross the highway at night doing forty. Van is totaled, occupants went to the hospital.

[NinerBikes]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
How does one "control" an 800-watt LED light bar?

Some sort of PWM device for a dimmer, would be my guess. What the specs would be are for the EE's to determine, not me, outta my league when running 3.7V LED's, with no way of knowing the wiring for voltage, parallel or in series.

[pianotuna]

A switch and/or a dimmer. That's an awful lot of light.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

How does one "control" an 800-watt LED light bar?

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I installed manual switches to control the charging relays from the engine, and perko switches (1000 amps contacting) for each battery bank. To avoid burning the contacts my relays are rated for 200 amps. I'm the "smart" part of that equation. LOL

Niner they do mean 200 amps. Personally I would not trust that number.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Look people, any -other- relay that costs $6.99 is good for 30-40 amps in the NO contacts. There would be nothing wrong with this relay at 50-60 amps load. Your tires are good for "X" MPH. Do you -ever- run them at anywhere near that? This is a great relay for the price. Legitimate charge splitters battery combiners smart solenoids are the only way to go for dividing battery banks. They use a forty dollar (retail price) tower solenoid like an Essex. 8:20 this morning, I used my MOSFET relay to start a Ford Ranger pickup. Eight 172 ampere (hypothetical rating)MOSFETS with short legs connected to 1/2" square copper bussbars. Solid state is the way to go to stop arcing. Box is a deep quad receptacle. No moving contacts to ever deteriorate.

Tower-type power relays are great until affordable extreme amperage solid state relays come along.

BTW out here on the peninsula a second Kountry Koach has joined the 1st on the beach I see, worth 5-7 hundred thousand dollars. Three axle diesel pushers. They look like customs builds.

Having a head-on in the USA with a Peterbilt is a hell of a lot more likely than running into a barricade of mounted banditos adorned with bandoliers, rocket launchers, gold teeth, and silver horseshoes on their mounts.

90% of highway problems occur between dusk and dawn, but know-it-alls ignore common sense pay a heay toll then run home screaming they were "ultra'careful".

When A Person Stops Learning - They Start To Die

[NinerBikes]

Me thinks mexicowanderer is trolling "chinesium cr*p", and just pointing out that if you buy things on line, always apply a test of reasonableness.

The "fail" sign for me on this item is a 1/4" electrical post with ring terminals, and you're telling me it will take 200 amps? I think that's a typo, lets call it 20 amps.

Trust, but verify, always, with electrical items... electricity burns everyone, smart or dumb, if you don't use common sense and pay attention to the specifications. Go look inside at the electrical busses inside a 200 amp electrical main panel, and the size of the wires from your electricity provider feeding the main panel, and you'll see some big azz buss and screws... there's your sign.

We may be old f@rts in here, but some us still have great BS detector sensitivity... this is just a recalibration of our measurement devices.

[mchero]

bucky wrote:
Mex, you always bring something interesting to the forum. Ignore the haters.

Mr Bucky

I'd love to know where you came up with the haters idea! NOT!

We have to stay on top of Mex to keep him in-line, he does the same to us! Been that way for a LONG time!

I'd love to head south & visit Mex, just don't have the gonads to drive over the border with everything I own! LOL

[myredracer]

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[pnichols]

Mex wrote:
You won't find another "200" amp relay unless it costs ten times as much.

Sometimes ... but not always ... that 10X cost gets you 10X the reliability.

If our budget can work it out, we always try to error on the dollar-side of a high probability of high reliability. The last thing we need is RV electrical (or any other kind of) problems at places like Dubinky Well. 😞

[Kayteg1]

rjxj wrote:


White Rodgers thinks they should use 5/16 terminals. I think you are correct about Chinese amps vs USA amps. 🙂 Just keep the insurance paid up.

Pricey but wont melt

Had this one in factory combiner.
Melted in 1 season.

[azrving]

Chris Bryant wrote:
Color me skeptical, but I think that thing would melt into a puddle after not too much time handling 200 amps. The connections look like 1/4-20 (judging by the .250 quick connect terminals).
Maybe Chinese amps are smaller than American amps.

White Rodgers thinks they should use 5/16 terminals. I think you are correct about Chinese amps vs USA amps. 🙂 Just keep the insurance paid up.

Pricey but wont melt

[Chris_Bryant]

Color me skeptical, but I think that thing would melt into a puddle after not too much time handling 200 amps. The connections look like 1/4-20 (judging by the .250 quick connect terminals).
Maybe Chinese amps are smaller than American amps.