cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Replacement Battery Charger - recommendation(s)

jodeb720
Explorer
Explorer
Even all -

I have an old vectron 1093 that I've had for years and it's serving me well. Unfortunately, they are not being manufactured any more.

My young cousin is just starting out camping in a TC he purchased for a song and the only charger he has is an "inexpensive" maintainer

I'm going out on a limb, but I'll bet he'll end up with a set of GC's and will need a way to recharge them when he gets home to full top them off.

What manufacturer/model do you recommend - and keep in mind, he's young, and price sensitive.

Thanks so much in advance

Josh
24 REPLIES 24

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
The Stanley site says the 40 amper is discontinued. Hard to tell what would be a good choice.

https://www.baccusglobal.com/

I think this one would do nicely. It does 30 amps at first and when the battery is full (by however it thinks it is) it automatically drops to Float. It is regular price at $149 (Can) in Can Tire, check for it on amazon.com for US price.

https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/217982_95ac1e45cb874794874d00669b63d4b1.pdf

Here it is:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DXAEC80-Battery-Charger-Maintainer/dp/B06XDJZC1M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywo...
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
jodeb720 wrote:
OP Here,

My cousin is strictly a weekender camper. No long term/week at a time kind stuff.

His need is to have lights, water pump, recharge cell phone and a ceiling fan of some kind.

What he currently has is a battery tender with a 2 amp maximum output. If he makes the investment moving to a pair of GC's from Costco, then he'll want charging system that he can connect when he gets home from the weekend to recharge the batteries.

I thought I knew a thing or two about recharging, but as you've (collectively) pointed out, short of using a hydrometer, it's a **** shoot in terms of what is a fully charged battery.

personally, I've got my 1093 and I have two sets of gc's with a select-able cut off switch so I keep one bank feeding the house, and one bank can be charged, offline by the 1093.

The one thing I've not done is gone after the batteries with a hydrometer to check SOC.

Back to my cousin - so short of him spending a few hundred dollars for a megawatt or meanwell - the stanley will probably suffice.

My biggest concern is him overcharging the batteries and boiling them to death.

In a way, it's better to undercharge than to overcharge in this case.

Thanks for all the help!

josh
The Stanley 40 amp charger is basically the same as the 1093 (read my previous post). It is a smart charger that will shut off automatically and will not boil the batteries.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Josh,

Undercharging is much easier to do than over charging. Once the batteries sulfate there may be much shorter life.

Since your brother is a weekend camper, I'd install 200 watts of solar and mate it to the temperature compensated Grape controller from Home Depot.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-Solar-100-Watt-Polycrystalline-Solar-Panel-for-RV-s-Boats-and-12-V...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-Solar-COMET-12-24-Volt-40-Amp-Solar-Charge-Controller-GS-PWM-COMET...
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

jodeb720
Explorer
Explorer
OP Here,

My cousin is strictly a weekender camper. No long term/week at a time kind stuff.

His need is to have lights, water pump, recharge cell phone and a ceiling fan of some kind.

What he currently has is a battery tender with a 2 amp maximum output. If he makes the investment moving to a pair of GC's from Costco, then he'll want charging system that he can connect when he gets home from the weekend to recharge the batteries.

I thought I knew a thing or two about recharging, but as you've (collectively) pointed out, short of using a hydrometer, it's a **** shoot in terms of what is a fully charged battery.

personally, I've got my 1093 and I have two sets of gc's with a select-able cut off switch so I keep one bank feeding the house, and one bank can be charged, offline by the 1093.

The one thing I've not done is gone after the batteries with a hydrometer to check SOC.

Back to my cousin - so short of him spending a few hundred dollars for a megawatt or meanwell - the stanley will probably suffice.

My biggest concern is him overcharging the batteries and boiling them to death.

In a way, it's better to undercharge than to overcharge in this case.

Thanks for all the help!

josh

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
RLS7201 wrote:
Keep it simple. Harbor Freight 2/10/50 Battery charger. Item # 66783. On any one of the 3 settings, the charger will shut down when it reaches 14.4 volts and turn back on at 12.8 volts. On sale for $29.95 4/12-4/14.
Hook it up and walk away.

Richard


So the battery is at say 75% SOC when it reaches 14.4 volts, and now the charger quits until voltage drops back to 12.8 volts? Great! 😞


Well the OP was talking about a maintainer and low budget, for when he gets HOME. Those batteries will eventually top off while sitting in the driveway. On the 10 amp setting, it will take may hours to achieve 14.4.
I have the same charger that I leave on my truck all winter, while gone to warmer climate.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
MrWizard wrote:
Gjac
we all like the BD/vector 40amp charger

its just NOT being Mfg anymore, used ones IF you can find one for sale
command a 'as new' price

i have no experience with the Stanley
Stanley bought out B&D, in talking to one of their engineers they told me that the Stanley 40 amp charger was based on the B&D charger with better controls and charging algorithms.

red31
Explorer
Explorer
Baccus Global, maker or B&D, dewalt, stanley * CAT battery chargers

https://www.baccusglobal.com/

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Gjac
we all like the BD/vector 40amp charger

its just NOT being Mfg anymore, used ones IF you can find one for sale
command a 'as new' price

i have no experience with the Stanley
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

philh
Explorer II
Explorer II
For GC2 batteries, are we better off using a separate plug in charger and just disconnecting the batteries from the built in house charger?

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
For what he wants to do with it I would get the Stanley 40 amp battery charger or the B&D 40 amp battery charger, I got the later for $50 at Big lots. For 2 6v GC batteries it works great and has an equalizing function and desulfating function. Like a previous poster said none of these smart chargers fully charge the batteries to 100%SOC, so when my smart charger says full I will use the old onboard Magnatec 950 converter charger to top of the 2 6 v GC batteries. There are better solutions but not for $50.

Shadow_Catcher
Explorer
Explorer
Progressive Dynamics hands down.

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
jodeb720 wrote:

I'm going out on a limb, but I'll bet he'll end up with a set of GC's and will need a way to recharge them when he gets home to full top them off.


Few, if any currently offered 'garage' chargers is actually going to be able to 'top off' a deeply cycled battery even if new, and especially not an older one. Like almost all automatic charging sources, they guess, or have a preset algorithm as to how long to hold higher voltages, and drop, almost always prematurely, to a float voltage where little to no charging occurs, and certainly cannot top off a regularly deeply cycled battery(s). This is the single biggest cause of premture lead acid battery demise on the planet. Living chronically undercharged.

Also it is possible that plugging in a few hours here or there might occur, and 12 amps is a pitifully low amount of charging current for 220Ah of depleted battery. A pair of healthy depleted GC-2s can accept what? 65 amps for a good period of time before battery terminal voltage rises to mid 14's. So a 65 smp charger can do in an hour on a healthy capacity of depleted battery, what would take a 10 amp charger 6.5 hours.

Ignore the battery amperage Nannies who say low and slow is always best. low and slow is only best when time to recharge is NOT a factor and the charging source can and will seek then hold higher voltages for as long as is required to maximize specific gravity, before reversion to a 'float' or maintenance voltage.

Good luck finding a bells and whistles automatic smart charger of more than 25 amps, but that is really the minumum I would recommend for a pair of GC-2's.

I'd buy the 36 amp Megawatt or A 350 to 500 watt Meanwell adjustable voltge power supply for under 100$, remove the cover( 5 screws) and upgrade the 60Mm fan to something larger and dual ball bearing, set it to 14.4 to 14.8v unloaded, and run it through a 8 hour intermatic spring wound timer then attach clamps to battery posts.

The Megawatt will have 36 amps available to seek a chosen absorption voltage and then hold it as long as the spring wound timer has not expired.

What absolutely is annoying as all Eff, is an Automatic charging source wich consistently stops well short of full charge, no matter how many times the surface charge is removed by loading the battery, and the unit restarted. Been there, done that, and the charging source was lucky to not be swung by its ac power cord into the nearest telephone pole followed by a string of violent curses that turns the skies black and the neighbors running for the hills.

My neighbors have all sorts of different battery chargers they have/had a ridiculous faith in, until I come down with the hydrometer and find specific gravities still deep in the red, below 1.220, and then put my Meanwell rsp-500-15 on it set for 14.8v, and 6 more hours are required and about 20 to 30more AH required to actually fully charge the starter battery that their chargers said were fully charged.
It becomes a lesson in futility to actually fully charge the battery with most automatic 'smart' underchargers. Full charge is NOT determined not by a green light and well worded marketing of the latest and greatest charger offered to the battery ignorant public, but by a temperature compensated turkey baster style of hydrometer on flooded battreies. Amperage the battery is accepting at absorption voltage is another good indicator, and absolutely necessary for verifying full charge on AGM's.

Getting regularly deeply cycled batteries back to full charge is the best way to get ones money's worth from deep cycled lead acid batteries, and few if any current offerings in the garage charger market will be able to maximize specific gravity of such a battery, and this statement is provable, time and again, with a hydrometer and the gumption to actually use it, or the Ammeter withteh batery still at absorption voltage, or both.

A proper charging source which can actually achieve a true full charge, will pay for itself in extended battery life. Hoping and praying the green light on most automatic charging sources marketed to the general public, is not mocking you, is foolhearty at best.

Generally they are a waste of both money and time, as they cannot do what they say they can, which is truly fully charge a battery. They will certainly charge a starter battery enough to start the vehicle, but this is hardly a benchmark one should be proud of. Many vehicles in need of a jumpstart could likely have a 100 watt solar panel hooked directly to the battery aimed at the sun for an hour and allow the engine to start. It does not really take much battery capacity to actually crank a modern fuel injected gas engine.

Putting a handle on, and sacrificing a pair of 8awg or thicker copper jumper cables on almost any converter, Progressive Dynamics, Iota, or Powermax, will be so incredibly superior a charger than any of the sleek plastic covered sexy garage chargers one can buy in walmart, it is ridiculous. The battery will last so much longer when they are truly fully charged that the ROI on the converter turned portable charger, might easily be realized on the first set of GC-2's.
---------

As far as alternator charging goes, I got an E-mail from Renogy today advertising a new 20 and 40 amp DC to DC charger for a fraction of the price of similar devices, which will raise or lower vehicle voltage to the house battery for more complete battery charging, and eliminate the need for any other isolation device, whether triggered solenoid, or Diode based isolator or the thousand other products marketed for this purpose.

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-12v-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/



I've no experience with this product nor do I have any affiliation for Renogy and cannot and will not vouch for its quality or function, but similar devices by other companies are much more expensive.

What one can get away with, is a matter of 'for how long'.
Charging deeply cycled lead acid batteries fully is vital to their longevity, so saving a few bucks initially, Will quickly cost more money when those batteries fail prematurely from chronic undercharging, which is practically guaranteed with most currently available 'smart' chargers.

Spend more on a product which can do what it says it can, rather than throwing away money on something ultimately futile and disposable.

shastagary
Explorer
Explorer
he might want to look into the marine type battery chargers like these
NOCO Genius GEN1 10 Amp 1-Bank Waterproof Smart On-Board Battery Charger

shastagary
Explorer
Explorer
Harbor Freight 2/10/50 Battery charger. Item # 66783 it says it is a manual charger. and is not available any more the current #60581 says this from the instructions
When the battery is fully charged and registering 100% on the Charge Meter, a small charge will continue to move from the charger to the battery. If the charger is not disconnected from the battery, eventually heat build up will cause the battery acid to boil and overcharge the battery causing damage to the battery. Monitor battery charging progress constantly and if battery gets warm, stop charging it immediately.


and this
Although this charger has an automatic cut off; do NOT depend solely on automatic cut off. Leaving charger unattended can result in fire and property damage.