Wow, I never knew that they built lightweight frames like that! Looking back at the first pic, I'll bet what I'm seeing under that splice plate isn't a tear, but the lip where the edge is rolled to stiffen it.
Here's a pic of what I was trying to describe earlier:
What you're looking at is the front edge of the slide in my 2008 Terry. The project at hand was to replace the floor in the slide which had begun to rot out due to a leak in the exterior trim. The carpet in the slide has been removed, and you can see where the beveled edge of the slide floor now sites on the remaining carpet that needs to be removed.
With the interior fascia trim removed, I screwed a 4x4 block to the front framing on each side of the slide and used a bottle jack to raise the slide in the opening so I could get under there and get that carpet out.
This is what I was thinking for you as a way to support that wall when you are rebuilding the floor under it. The easy way would be to screw a 4x4 to the exterior but then you have to deal with holes in the fiberglass, that's what made me think of removing a window and putting a support there that you could jack against. What ever you do will have to be on the exterior, there's nothing left to jack against inside.. ๐
Now that you know the frame is good, nothing left to do but to do it! Post back pics once you get into it so we can all share in the fun!
Here's a pic of what I was trying to describe earlier:
What you're looking at is the front edge of the slide in my 2008 Terry. The project at hand was to replace the floor in the slide which had begun to rot out due to a leak in the exterior trim. The carpet in the slide has been removed, and you can see where the beveled edge of the slide floor now sites on the remaining carpet that needs to be removed.
With the interior fascia trim removed, I screwed a 4x4 block to the front framing on each side of the slide and used a bottle jack to raise the slide in the opening so I could get under there and get that carpet out.
This is what I was thinking for you as a way to support that wall when you are rebuilding the floor under it. The easy way would be to screw a 4x4 to the exterior but then you have to deal with holes in the fiberglass, that's what made me think of removing a window and putting a support there that you could jack against. What ever you do will have to be on the exterior, there's nothing left to jack against inside.. ๐
Now that you know the frame is good, nothing left to do but to do it! Post back pics once you get into it so we can all share in the fun!
jayfraze wrote:
Hi all,
Thanks for the feedback. There are more comments than I thought there'd be! Seems I need to provide a bit more background.
I acquired the camper for nothing. It is the top trim for that model so comes with all the fixings that at least 06 had to offer. Parting-out is still very much on the table.
That said, I have "flipped" several campers over the last few years. I am unfortunately attracted to the work and problem solving... I suppose one would call that a hobby. In my part of Canada, we have a solid 8 month no-camping season so this passes the time. As of yet, I have been able to come ahead each time. This camper has the most damage but not by much.
The process will be the same whether I part-out or rebuild. I'll need to strip the inside down to the frame to ascertain the true damage. This is going to be step #1. Happy to post an update later on depending on which direction I decide. The one advantage to the whole thing is that the roof and walls are 100% solid. I am uncertain at this point how much/if the floor rot has affected the connection to the walls.
I tried to include photos previously but only figured that out now.
Photo #1 is the right side sagging wall, also under the kitchen. You'll notice there aren't any outriggers. Next to no support for the walls.
Photo #2 you'll notice the result of water damage and lack of structural support... the kitchen cabinets are buckling.
Photo #3 is the plate fix on the crack. This is the only thing of the project that concerns me. My father is a certified welder so there is hope there but still questioning if I want to rebuild on a "repaired" frame as many have mentioned.BurbMan wrote:
Big project but do-able if you have the time.
Thanks for the frame photo and the helpful feedback re: rebuild. I certainly understand the disadvantages, cost, frustration, wildly extensive damage, etc. so your responses to my initial questions about the sag/frame were appreciated!
Jay, the entire floor structure under the stove is done, there is nothing you can do to remedy short of demolishing the entire floor..
To do this CORRECTLY you MUST remove the ENTIRE WALL.
Then you would have to cut back all the wood framing in the floor back to good solid dry wood, IF you can find anything salvageable.
The floor is a "sandwich" which has 1/8" or 1/4" plywood underneath (on top of steel frame), then 2x2 framing on top of the thin plywood, then 1/2" plywood or chip board on top of the 2x2s.. You will find that there is Styrofoam insulation in between the 2x2s which is 100% GLUED in.. Making this repair a real frustrating time waster..
If you have basic understanding on how a Trailer box is built then you would know that the floor is built in place on the frame, then the walls which are prebuilt on tables fixtures is lifted and set on the floor structure.. Then the roof (which is built the same as walls) is set on top of the walls.
From your pictures I really would not encourage anyone at this point to tackle this as a fixer upper for yourself and especially from a flipping perspective.
Addressing the frame..
Yeah, that frame is a piece of junk, it was junk from the day it left the factory, it is a lightweight frame, it has prepunched holes in the frame to lighten the weight and good chance it failed at one of the prepunched holes above the axle and that is why that gnarly plate is there..
You will spend more money and time welding in all those prepunched holes to strengthen (and add weight) and you will have a "frankenstein" frame which will not add any value to your trailer.
Your "house" is only as good as the "foundation" it is built on, star with a trash foundation and your end result is like putting lipstick on a pig (trash).
I could never justify trying to fix this one for myself let alone for potential of flipping.. It is a 2006, a 14 yr old trailer, you are talking at best in US a $3,000 trailer IF it did not have this severe damage. With that damage, it should be in the scrap yard, as is right now it is a safety hazard and could collapse easily.
You got it for free but your labor time is not free no matter what you think, you can never get time back.
You HAVE basically a parts donor at best, leave it at that and move on. You can find lots of trailers in far better shape with good frames.
Sometimes one must realize that one cannot "save" everything and sometimes in those cases, the terminal ones become "life saviors" for other trailers..
I wish you good luck if you decide to proceed, but consider yourself warned.
