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Slide out floor parting from frame

Loren_Ross
Explorer
Explorer
2002 Keystone Cougar 281EFS. Removed the carpeting to replace with vinyl laminate flooring. When I stood on the rear end of the slide, the floor sunk and broke away from the wall. There was daylight coming through the gap.

On the outside, there is a metal frame with 7 screws horizontally into the slide floor. These screws were only 1 1/4 inch, were rusted badly, and not holding anything up. Initially, I used some Extreme Hold Liquid Nails in the joint between the wall and floor, and replaced the screws with 2 1/2 inch decking screws. I used a floor jack to hold the floor up in position and let it sit for 48 hours to give the Liquid Nails time to setup.

First time I stepped on it while installing flooring, it broke away again. So now, I've re-glued it again and have it supported with the floor jack, but I don't know what to do to hold it together.

Should I try screwing it from the bottom up into the wall?? Any other suggestions??
5 REPLIES 5

Loren_Ross
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the comments folks. Ended up replacing the plywood floor, and did it from the inside in 2 pieces. Sealed the exterior with spar varnish and recovered it with the plastic wrapping, and used screws to bolt it UP into the base of the walls. Holds great.
LR

garyemunson
Explorer
Explorer
If the screws into the wood floor were rusted away, I'd suspect the water travelled laterally back into the plywood quite a ways and the floor is pretty much shot and in need of replacement. Not an easy job but not impossible. Probably plenty of uTube vids out there with one being close to what you need to do. Your experience underscores why it's so important to keep the caulking on all exterior seams in good shape. When it fails, water will get behind the trim and find it's way into the wood. So many older RVs stink of must and mold because water got behind the exterior trim that's at floor level and water has seeped through at the wall/floor seam, soaked the bottom of the wall and the floor plywood and started the mold growth there. Best stuff I've found is gutter/flashing sealant from Home Depot. Comes in several colors including clear.

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
Sounds like the seller was able to get by with a floor that was "not good" and you are stuck with trying to re-work the entire thing. You need to look at what would be necessary to start from scratch and get the offending floor removed and the right parts and pieces in place to get you back to a good original starting point.
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

Bird_Freak
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would have used self tapping metal screws instead of decking screws. Wood screws and metal don't work well together. But if your wood floor is tearing at the screws I would say you need to replace the floor. I had to in my bedroom slide.
Eddie
03 Fleetwood Pride, 36-5L
04 Ford F-250 Superduty
15K Pullrite Superglide
Old coach 04 Pace Arrow 37C with brakes sometimes.
Owner- The Toy Shop-
Auto Restoration and Customs 32 years. Retired by a stroke!
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BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Moved to Tech Issues forum from 5th Wheels.
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine