Small Anderson Power Pole Connectors 1, Mex 0

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I am fighting the insertion of assembled connector conductor into plastic base, and I shouldn't have to. I am using a standard peg imprint uninsulated terminal (T&B) crimper. After assembly the terminal simply will not slide into the square plastic housing. I've sought out the factory web site instructions, watched You Tube and they make it look easy.

The peg crimper does not leave the terminal mis-shapen but, too fat top to bottom. Simple filing works but without soldering the joint is weaker than a starved cat. I changed crimping tools, no difference. I had to resort to solder to keep any strength to the termination, and the amount of filing needed is exactly the same with or without solder.

Filing is to the top of the barrel, top meaning the bend on the flat tang is facing down. I must be removing 1/16" or better of material and that is flat ridiculous. So is spending an extra fifteen minutes per termination.

I believe the termination is 45 amp rated and I am using 16-20 gauge wire (sometimes paralleled)

I can assemble 10 Weather Pac terminals in the time it takes me to so a single Anderson Power Pole. The problem lies with me and I would like to solve it. I have a lot of connectors to make up.

Thanks

[msiminoff]

Hi Mex'
I love PowerPoles! I have a TRIcrimp crimping tool that shapes the terminal such that it fits perfectly into the plastic housing. It works with the 15, 30, and 45A contacts.
I'm not sure how this crimper compares to your T&B, but if you assemble a lot of PowerPoles the TRIcrimp is worth its weight in plata.
I have also used solder-only with great results, but I prefer crimping for most installations (for all the usual solder vs. crimp reasons).
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
-Mark

[Snowman9000]

ktmrfs wrote:

Snowman9000 wrote:
I think the problem arises when as Mex says, the crimp is too big in one direction or another. You can't really squish it outward at all, hardly. Once you have a conforming crimp, the terminal will go in without much fuss. imo.

From my experience, If I use genuine anderson connectors rather than second source parts, crimp doesn't seem to matter, they snap in. My experience is that there are non anderson connectors that are too short between where the crimp housing ends and the tip tang starts. so when the "neck" hits the wall in the housing, the tip isn't past the metal tag that holds it in place.

At first I thought I was doing something wrong. I was, had some connectors that weren't anderson and that was the problem.

when I talk about connectors, it's the metal contact, NOT the plastic housing.

My terminals came from Powerwerx, so I'm sure they are legit. But I did have the same trouble as Mex. I tried to follow the advice shown in this article:
http://www.wb3w.net/powerpoleinst.htm

Other ideas

I had some crimps which were too big to fit, and some wires pull out of the terminals. So overall, if I had it to do over, I might spring for the Anderson crimper. But I think next time I will see if there is an appropriate die set in my China hydraulic crimper.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

For jobs requiring less than 20 amperes, if I cannot sort this out, I am going to return to Weather Pack which are utterly waterproof, and mating halves lock together with a latch. More than disappointed with the Andersons. I had great expectations for them. I purchased quite a quantity.

[wa8yxm]

I have seen it done using a standard crimper (What is it G&B I think) as it happens I have one of those, have no idea where/when I got it but I have one.

I use a West Mountain Radio ratcheting crimp tool with the special cup for Power Pole attachment, and let me tell you I've seen factory crimps that were not as nice. Never had a problem.

The biggest problem i have is getting the tab to go into the slot in the body.

page 2: make sure you have the tab right side up.

I love Power Poles, one of the great inventions of our time.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Great answers. The barrel of the conductor does indeed push 1/8" past the end of the plastic housing. Recessed.

And woe-is-me, down here. About the only thing I can think of is to try using a rough aluminum oxide sharpening stone instead of the file.

The barrel conductors must not be genuine Anderson, even though they were advertised as such. They were not especially a bargain. I am going to try reversing the crimper jaw direction tomorrow with the tip or "stake" uppermost which because the conductor's barrel seam is on top does not make sense but oh well. Filing the top of the conductor barrel down is "all" that needs to make it fit. The sides do not bulge. At least the plastic housings "pair" correctly.

Thanks everyone!

[dieseltruckdriv]

What I have found in this situation is after I do the uninsulated crimp, turn the connector 90 degrees, and give it a slight squeeze with the insulated part of the tool. They seem to need slight tweaking. That is if I use the Klein crimpers.
The Anderson crimper works perfectly every time.

[ktmrfs]

Snowman9000 wrote:
I think the problem arises when as Mex says, the crimp is too big in one direction or another. You can't really squish it outward at all, hardly. Once you have a conforming crimp, the terminal will go in without much fuss. imo.

From my experience, If I use genuine anderson connectors rather than second source parts, crimp doesn't seem to matter, they snap in. My experience is that there are non anderson connectors that are too short between where the crimp housing ends and the tip tang starts. so when the "neck" hits the wall in the housing, the tip isn't past the metal tag that holds it in place.

At first I thought I was doing something wrong. I was, had some connectors that weren't anderson and that was the problem.

when I talk about connectors, it's the metal contact, NOT the plastic housing.

[Dakota98]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I had to resort to solder to keep any strength to the termination, and the amount of filing needed is exactly the same with or without solder.

Thanks

If you are filing the connector, having used solder, something is wrong.
The connector should fit into the housing without much effort & snap into place

This is the best informational site concerning Anderson connectors that I have found.

Anderson connectors

[Snowman9000]

I think the problem arises when as Mex says, the crimp is too big in one direction or another. You can't really squish it outward at all, hardly. Once you have a conforming crimp, the terminal will go in without much fuss. imo.

[ktmrfs]

Mex:

Been there, done that. What I found is that the real genuine connectors that come with the anderson connector work fine. HOWEVER, BE CAREFUL OF ANY AFTERMARKET OR SUBSTITUTE CONTACT. I spent I don't know how much time trying to figure out why some wouldn't insert, just like your going through. best I could tell, dimensions were the same. But they must vary slightly and I couldn't get it to latch. sorted through the connectors, and found the genuine ones works "easy peasy".

I found that I could take a "virgin" aftermarket connector straight out of the package and it would NOT insert and latch, no matter how hard I push, wiggled etc. The genuine article would snap in easily.

I've since done a dry run on any connector. If it snaps in, then it's good and I crimp and solder and they go in fine.

[BruceMc]

I use a fair amount of Anderson PPs. If I get time, I'll snap a few photos & hopefully help you assemble yours.

I use a stake type crimp made by Klein.

[tvman44]

I love the Anderson Power pole connectors, I use the 45 amp on our 5er for 12 volt connections and at home I use the 150 amp for my generator. On the 45 amp I use their crimping tool. I don't know what to tell you about your problem as mine work great. 🙂

[Mandalay_Parr]

I had to push really hard. They only go one way.