Solar Electric Specialties: Reviews?

[DesertMax]

Hi Guys, just picked up my new to me '96 Squire 3000 and it has lots of tech goodies on it. I had a 4000 before and learned a lot about solar. Still have my own system to transfer to new rig but unfamiliar with SES. Is this a solar controller and any comments on background of this company, reviews, reliability or quality level of this unit? Appreciate all responses..

Can't find anything on line about current price of this unit..

[DesertMax]

Oh ok..

[Almot]

DesertMax wrote:
Ok I pulled the fuse from the SES and it is a flat metal ribbon fuse and says
"Buss AGC 15 on one end cap and 32V followed by what looks like a backward "R" melted to a capitol "A" and then a tiny logo in a circle on the other cap.

There are professional electricians here - I am not the one. Must be Bussman AGC 15A.

Controller output should be fused higher than its rating. Fuse must match the wire rating, and wire should be minimum 1.25 of controller rating. Can't be 15A controller for sure. 12A, 10A, - don't know. I would "guess" it's more than 7A. Let's hope somebody more knowledgeable will chime in after the holidays.

PM = Private Message. Click on Profile of the poster, then on Private Message, and send them email.

[DesertMax]

Hey Almot, sorry man but I was born very young! What does PM mean?

[DesertMax]

Ok I pulled the fuse from the SES and it is a flat metal ribbon fuse and says
"Buss AGC 15 on one end cap and 32V followed by what looks like a backward "R" melted to a capitol "A" and then a tiny logo in a circle on the other cap.

[Almot]

I meant that other post where you were asking about controller for 150W. 10A would be enough.

You have SES founder's buddy here, PM him.
With small controllers people often let it go when selling the rig. Then new owner installs bigger panels and throws old controller out. What a shame.

Edit-PS: try and find the fuse in there.
Judging by the ammeter, this controller could be anywhere from 7 to 15A. Can't be more than 15, and unlikely below 6.

[DesertMax]

How would I check that 10A?

[Almot]

Don't know if this post was before or after... Your current SES controller could do the job. As long as it's rated to at least 10A.

[mike-uswest]

I have one in the garage just like it. It worked great on the trailer that I bought a long time ago. I just went bigger and newer.

Mike

[DesertMax]

Almot, you know, when I picked up this rig it never occurred to me that it was "analog" or old... I just though the same.. that it looked so technical with it's little horizontal wheel moving around in there.. It is cool!
That's an easy fix.. do nothing.. and can always upgrade and do still have the ASC.. thanks

[Almot]

Test that old controller and use it. Analog meters look cool. ASC is probably same features, fixed setpoints, only without meters.

[DesertMax]

Hey drmopar, how about that.. so between the old SES and my newer ASC do you think I should just use the existing one SES? My ASC worked great in my last rig.. Just did a fine job!

Also, I do want to build up my system to big as I can get it and that will be relegated by where batts can be carried. Don't think I want them out on a receiver platform like some I've seen so one 12V AGM in the house batt compartment and 2 more in a lower "step" interior compartment. 36V system and most likely the 3 panels I have or even add another for 4 panels.. I would like to upgrade the controller and add a batt monitor.. Any recommendations?

[drmopar]

Solar back in the 70's and 80's we developed and sold the SES controller and the ASC controllers. Very simple. Those controllers were state of the art back then. I still have some in stock. SES used the cheaper analog meters, but we used a higher grade meters with on-off switching. We could switch off array or battery. Both dependable units. ARCO Solar actually had their own at that time. SES was started by my buddy JP.

[Almot]

DesertMax wrote:
isn't the "sealed" factor for just that purpose... safe, no spill, no vapor or venting.. can be mounted on their sides etc???

yes on all 3.
Safe as any battery is safe. You can kill yourself with a toothbrush if you try hard.

No spill.

No hydrogen vapor unless during extreme overcharging, and then there is a relief valve for that. If you remember some cars have regular spill-able battery mounted inside, in the back or under the seat.

Can be mounted on the sides, though this tends to be more complicated, with a rack and some plastic to keep contacts covered.

AGM make a lot of sense for a small van or TC.

[DesertMax]

Let's see if we can fish out some more "solar experts" to provide more enlightening opinions on this one...