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Solar Output in Shade?

mbopp
Explorer
Explorer
I'm still toying with adding solar to alleviate running the genny every day. But since out favorite no-hookup sites are shaded, what % of rated output can I expect from a 24V panel and MPPT controller? Can I get 50 watts out of a 200W panel?
2017 Grand Design Imagine 2650RK
2019 F250 XLT Supercab
Just DW & me......
33 REPLIES 33

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
For a while back when, I had one 24v set with MPPT and another 12v set with PWM so it did need two different controllers. No sweat--both set to 14.8 on same battery bank, added their amps, worked great.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hedge the Grape is only $45.00
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
hedge wrote:
maybe, my plan is to wire in an Anderson connector to be able to hook up a portable panel. This will be wired to bank 2 on the switch, the roof mounted panels will be mounted to bank 1 on the switch. This way I can cut them all off, choose individual banks, or combine them.

I'm not sure how often I'll be using the portable panel and I have quite a spendy controller so I'd rather just use it.



anderson connectors work IMHO very well for portable panel connections. Many people I know, myself included, that use them for portable panels.

One issue you need to be aware of with the switch is that the panels Hot AND neutral must be connected to the charge control input. the neutral MUST not be connected to battery ground!!
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
While the switch gives you options there is no need for anything other than a on/off for the controller input, assuming the panels are the same voltage (or close). Just plug in the portables when desired. Use heavy wire for long runs.

No need for a second CC as long as one is adequate for all of the panels.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

hedge
Explorer
Explorer
maybe, my plan is to wire in an Anderson connector to be able to hook up a portable panel. This will be wired to bank 2 on the switch, the roof mounted panels will be mounted to bank 1 on the switch. This way I can cut them all off, choose individual banks, or combine them.

I'm not sure how often I'll be using the portable panel and I have quite a spendy controller so I'd rather just use it.
2017 F350 Platinum DRW
2013 Adventurer 89RB

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

It would be almost as cheap to use two Grape controllers. Then you would always get the benefit from both banks.

hedge wrote:
I'm planning on using a 2 bank battery cutoff switch in reverse to allow me to choose which solar source upstream of the controller.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

hedge
Explorer
Explorer
I'm planning on using a 2 bank battery cutoff switch in reverse to allow me to choose which solar source upstream of the controller.
2017 F350 Platinum DRW
2013 Adventurer 89RB

westend
Explorer
Explorer
maxum1989 wrote:
ktmrfs wrote:
westend wrote:
I'd suggest to mount one on the roof and carry one as a portable. You'll have the best solution possible. The portable one can be smallish to ease setup and tear down or use multiples. Remember, you'll be driving on the road and harvesting, along with the excellent battery maintenance solar does while in storage.


that is certainly a good option, and the two panels can still be connected to one charge controller.

And, if you do much driving vs. camping, the days drive can pick up lots of AH, combined with what you can get from the TV charge current can be a big boost.


I have thought of the two different options of solar for my needs.(fixed and portable). Doing both seems the best. Is there an easy way to have things wired so the portable panel can be quickly hooked up using both panels or not used at all leaving the roof panel on its own working?
Yes, the easiest alignment being the panels wired in parallel before the charge controller. A receptacle that will handle frequent disconnections/connections and be located towards the entrance point of the portable panel is best practices.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Searching_Ut
Explorer
Explorer
maxum1989 wrote:
ktmrfs wrote:
westend wrote:
I'd suggest to mount one on the roof and carry one as a portable. You'll have the best solution possible. The portable one can be smallish to ease setup and tear down or use multiples. Remember, you'll be driving on the road and harvesting, along with the excellent battery maintenance solar does while in storage.


that is certainly a good option, and the two panels can still be connected to one charge controller.

And, if you do much driving vs. camping, the days drive can pick up lots of AH, combined with what you can get from the TV charge current can be a big boost.


I have thought of the two different options of solar for my needs.(fixed and portable). Doing both seems the best. Is there an easy way to have things wired so the portable panel can be quickly hooked up using both panels or not used at all leaving the roof panel on its own working?


You could tie in both sets of panels in a parallel configuration using a junction box prior to the solar controller, assuming the controller is large enough to handle the current and the panels are similar enough to be paralleled efficiently. You could also use two separate solar controllers, one for the rooftop panels, one for the portable. If configured right charge controllers tend to play well together. Either way, I'd use a disconnect switch in the wiring between the portable panels and controller so I didn't have to make my connections with the wiring hot. The arching that can occur when hooking up live connections can create connection issues over time.
2015 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD, 4X4, AISIN, B&W Companion Puck Mount
2016 Heartland Bighorn 3270RS, 1kw solar with Trimetric and dual SC2030, 600 watt and 2k inverters.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Use both by putting each's controller on the same battery bank to add their amps. You can have the roof one with installed wires and the portable controller output to wires with clamps.

You want the controllers to be near the same "high set point" voltage, but the roof panel and controller can be different brand/model/size from the portable's.

Only thing that needs to be nearly the same is their output voltages so they add their amps. (and be for the same battery voltage ("12v", "24v", whatever) You can even have one set MPPT and the other PWM, doesn't matter.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

maxum1989
Explorer II
Explorer II
ktmrfs wrote:
westend wrote:
I'd suggest to mount one on the roof and carry one as a portable. You'll have the best solution possible. The portable one can be smallish to ease setup and tear down or use multiples. Remember, you'll be driving on the road and harvesting, along with the excellent battery maintenance solar does while in storage.


that is certainly a good option, and the two panels can still be connected to one charge controller.

And, if you do much driving vs. camping, the days drive can pick up lots of AH, combined with what you can get from the TV charge current can be a big boost.


I have thought of the two different options of solar for my needs.(fixed and portable). Doing both seems the best. Is there an easy way to have things wired so the portable panel can be quickly hooked up using both panels or not used at all leaving the roof panel on its own working?
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
ktmrfs wrote:
Now, with panels in series you minimize resistive loss in the cable, but risk low output if one or more panel gets shaded. output current will be limited to lowest panel output.
Unless the panels have bypass diodes then series can easily outperform parallel.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
I'd suggest to mount one on the roof and carry one as a portable. You'll have the best solution possible. The portable one can be smallish to ease setup and tear down or use multiples. Remember, you'll be driving on the road and harvesting, along with the excellent battery maintenance solar does while in storage.


that is certainly a good option, and the two panels can still be connected to one charge controller.

And, if you do much driving vs. camping, the days drive can pick up lots of AH, combined with what you can get from the TV charge current can be a big boost.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I'd suggest to mount one on the roof and carry one as a portable. You'll have the best solution possible. The portable one can be smallish to ease setup and tear down or use multiples. Remember, you'll be driving on the road and harvesting, along with the excellent battery maintenance solar does while in storage.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton