Suburban model SW16DE water heater

[woodland_park]

I have a 4 year old Suburban water heater that runs on either propane or electric.The electric is intermittent,(I have to push the reset button), and the gas side doesn't work at all.On the electric side I believe It's the switch/thermostat assembly as it will heat. On the gas side, I believe I lost the 12Vdc power supply as nothing happens when trying to use it. The light next to the power switch doesn't even light and I hear no sparking of the ignition. I checked A/C into the power supply OK @ 120VAC. When checking DC out I got nothing. What kind of power supply does anyone recommend? or am I missing something?

[woodland_park]

Thanks again everyone. My Suburban water heater is up and going with the T-stat/ hi limit switch assy and the 2 amp PS from Amazon

[woodland_park]

Hey thanks for the input everyone. This water heater is in a Park Model.Kind of a manufactured home on wheels or a "tiny house" type deal.So no 12Vdc batteries. It's either A/C or rectified DC. Thus my issue with the propane side of the water heater. The existing power supply label reads 120VAC in and puts out 12Vdc at 2 amps. I have no DC volts out. Most power supplies I see online are for computers and game consoles.They have round plugs that I'd have to cut off being aware of + and -.I was looking for suggestions on where to get a power supply that had the DC out clearly marked as positive and negative so I don't end up buying a control board too if I screw up.Thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

Suburban uses 2 separate sets of t-stats to control heating

One set is for electric and one set is for propane

They are located under 'Reset' cover in outside compartment

You having to 'reset' to get electric to heat means the 'Normal' temp t-stat has failed and the ECO (high temp t-stat) is opening (that is what you have to reset---the ECO)

120V AC set is on left side (black wires---ECO top/normal bottom)
Come as a set for electric element control

12V DC set is on right side (red wires----ECO top/normal bottom)
Come as a set for propane control


Replace the 120V AC set and electric should function w/o having to reset all the time

12 DC Voltage comes from converter (when AC power available) OR from Battery (w/o AC power)

Propane......

*DC power for propane comes from DC Dist. Panel ----FUSE (find and test that it is good---test it don't just LOOK)
*12V DC feeds FUSE....then to ON/OFF Switch.
*From On/Off Switch to/thru DC set of t-stats
*From t-stats to circuit board (back corner of water heater)
*From circuit board to spark electrode and to gas valve solenoids at same time for 5-7 seconds.

So trace DC Voltage from FUSE to Switch to t-stats to circuit board to spark electrode/gas valve solenoids.

[DrewE]

Are you using this water heater in something other than an RV?

The water heater does not have a DC power supply built into it, so it does not have any 12V output. You'd need some sort of external power supply to use it. Pretty much any reasonably clean supply with a voltage output of 12V to 14V that's capable of supplying a few amps intermittently and maybe 1-2A constantly would be appropriate.

If it's in an RV, the 12V power comes from the house 12V system, which consists of a 12V battery or battery bank, a charger (generally called a "converter"), and the distribution system at a minimum. This also powers the lights in the RV, exhaust fans, the water pump, the fridge control circuits, etc.

[westend]

By power supply do you mean the RV's converter? Is your battery charged?

[1492]

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