RJsfishin wrote:
I can't believe any mfg would make a solid connection tween the wax flange, and the tank. My flange has a 6" long pipe glued into it, then pushes thru a rubber tank bushing, then screwed to the floor. Any changes made to floor or carpet, the pipe simply moves up/dwn inside the bushing.
WhenI got my MH, the turlet and flange was mounted on top of thick carpet and pad,.....wobbled around like a fish outta water. I marking pencil'd a line all around the turlet base, removed the turlet and flange, cut out the carpet, then screwed everything down to the solid floor,.......no more wobble !! The pipe in the rubber bushing was a godsend. And the dealer says those "pipe in bushing" never leak.
Trust me, mine is cemented to the top of the black tank and screwed down through the carpet. When you hack out the carpet and padding there is a significant gap to fill so you don't break the neck off the tank by supporting the toilet by the flange. And it's not a wax ring. The toilet does not seal to the floor like at home. It sits on the flange and there's a rubber seal on the toilet itself to seal it.
wa8yxm wrote:
When I did mine I had to replace the wood too.
I'd like to meet the guy who came up with the bright idea of carpeting that riser.. He needs a good hanging.
Agreed. I get that it's more efficient to carpet everything from a build perspective, but carpet has NO business anywhere you do your business.
I'll take a crack at that.
In my '84 MH, the toilet flange is screwed down through the carpet and then through the floor. This is a totally icky arrangement if/when it leaks.
I removed the toilet and hacked the carpet out from underneath the flange. I then installed 1/4" plywood in the whole bathroom, cutting the pieces out to fit under the flange. The tile I used (1'squares, linoleum I assume) filled the rest of the gap under the flange. I installed the new toilet with no issues. It's important to make sure that you close that gap otherwise when you install the toilet you'll be putting a lot of pressure on that flange and therefore the black water tank.
ALTERNATIVELY, some flanges are threaded on. You may be able to wind it down some more or replace it with a new one that will fit flush with the new floor. My flange was glued onto the top of the tank so I had to fill the gap with underlayment and tile before reinstalling the toilet.
My new toilet's fresh water valve sprung a leak and ruined my new floor, so I'll be doing this again in the Spring. Good times.
In my '84 MH, the toilet flange is screwed down through the carpet and then through the floor. This is a totally icky arrangement if/when it leaks.
I removed the toilet and hacked the carpet out from underneath the flange. I then installed 1/4" plywood in the whole bathroom, cutting the pieces out to fit under the flange. The tile I used (1'squares, linoleum I assume) filled the rest of the gap under the flange. I installed the new toilet with no issues. It's important to make sure that you close that gap otherwise when you install the toilet you'll be putting a lot of pressure on that flange and therefore the black water tank.
ALTERNATIVELY, some flanges are threaded on. You may be able to wind it down some more or replace it with a new one that will fit flush with the new floor. My flange was glued onto the top of the tank so I had to fill the gap with underlayment and tile before reinstalling the toilet.
My new toilet's fresh water valve sprung a leak and ruined my new floor, so I'll be doing this again in the Spring. Good times.
