Trailer Brake issues

[perigaut]

A few months ago, I had to slam on the breaks while towing a trailer (2016 Jayco Jayflight 27BHS) to avoid an accident. While everything checked out okay, my tow vehicle (2011 Dodge Ram 5.7L) now says that the trailer brakes are not connected when the 7-pin harness is in. The console says to check the wiring on the trailer. To make sure it wasn’t a problem with the tow vehicle, I hooked up to another trailer and had no problems. I checked wiring (simple layman physical inspection) and replaced the fuse; however, that only partially fixed the problem. Now when I initially hook up, it says trailer brake connected, but as soon as I drive off, my trailer brakes go on and off every minute while I drive. Other than being annoying, it seems that it would be dangerous to take a 50% chance the trailer brakes don’t work when I need them.
Any advice or thoughts?

Thanks.

Phil

[RideSlow]

spike99 wrote:
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For pictures, surf my previous post within: - click here -

Did. TKS

[Tom_Barb]

perigaut wrote:
Thanks for the quick response. I'll answer questions that i've seen:
Tom/Barb, how do i reset the emergency brake away switch? i usually don't keep the trailer connected to the battery when i drive, as i usually go straight from our storage lot to camping grounds and hook up to local power. If it's a mistake or it will help, please let me know.
Phil

There is a small cable coming from the trailer that attaches to the truck that if the trailer becomes loose from the truck the brakes are applied on the trailer.
follow that cable from where it attaches to the truck back to the switch that applies the trailer brakes.
Inspect it, there is a part of the switch that pulls out when the cable is pulled. push it in. (hard)

Many trailers there is a small battery in the brake system, this is not charged by the trailer electrical circuits. It is charged by your truck while connected to the trailer

[naturist]

You must stop towing with the trailer battery disconnected. It is both unsafe and illegal to do that. The trailer battery is required to activate the brakes should the trailer somehow break away from your TV, otherwise you have this huge unguided missile careening down the road looking for somebody to kill.

[dougrainer]

perigaut wrote:
Thanks for the quick response. I'll answer questions that i've seen:

Westend, I followed the brake wire until I saw a fuse that was in a protective casing. Where before the trailers brakes said they were disconnect, after the fuse change the dodge said everything was fine. When I drove off, it started cycling between connected, not connected.
The brakes are engaging if i apply pressure and the system indicates they are on.

Tom/Barb, how do i reset the emergency brake away switch? i usually don't keep the trailer connected to the battery when i drive, as i usually go straight from our storage lot to camping grounds and hook up to local power. If it's a mistake or it will help, please let me know.

Doug, yes it does have the sway command, but I have a Pro-Pride 3P hitch so i don't use it.

Thanks again everyone

r/

Phil

Well, you should have been notified. Jayco has a SAFETY recall on ALL Jayco's with Sway command. The dealer removes the system, because even if NOT used can cause trailer brake problems. So, that is the first thing you need to do. Jayco, stopped installing Sway Command a year ago and expects all out there to be removed. Doug

Jayco is recalling 3,085 model year 2016-2017 Jay Feather, Jay Flight, Jay Flight SLX, Eagle, White Hawk, and Octane travel trailers manufactured January 5, 2016, to July 18, 2016, equipped with a Sway Command anti-sway system.



When connected to certain tow vehicles that have an integrated brake controller, and after the anti-sway system has applied the trailer brakes in response to a sway event, the trailer brakes may no longer function to slow or stop the trailer.

[DutchmenSport]

You have shed a bit more light on your set-up. Yes, I agree with those above, you need the battery on your trailer connected. It's possible, without the battery, the break-away switch is causing a malfunction on the brakes, causing a malfunction on your brake controller in the vehicle.

Hook up the battery and see if that solves the problem. It's a start, and there again ... I'm all for looking for the simple stuff first that doesn't cost anything!

[Boon_Docker]

You should always have the battery connected so the emergency braking system will work if the trailer becomes detached from the tow vehicle.
No need to check the brake away switch, it has nothing to do with the problem you are having. No need to adjust the brakes, it has nothing to do with the problem you are having.

[time2roll]

$1,250 for disk brake kit

[perigaut]

Thanks for the quick response. I'll answer questions that i've seen:

Westend, I followed the brake wire until I saw a fuse that was in a protective casing. Where before the trailers brakes said they were disconnect, after the fuse change the dodge said everything was fine. When I drove off, it started cycling between connected, not connected.
The brakes are engaging if i apply pressure and the system indicates they are on.

Tom/Barb, how do i reset the emergency brake away switch? i usually don't keep the trailer connected to the battery when i drive, as i usually go straight from our storage lot to camping grounds and hook up to local power. If it's a mistake or it will help, please let me know.

Doug, yes it does have the sway command, but I have a Pro-Pride 3P hitch so i don't use it.

Thanks again everyone

r/

Phil

[dougrainer]

Does your Jayco have the LCI SWAY COMMAND SYSTEM? Doug

[spike99]

.

If connecting tow vehicle to different trailers (with electric brakes) and the brake controller error problem follows one specific trailer, then problem is with the trailer.

For me, I'm not a fan of factory thin 12 gauge wiring using inside hallow axle tube cable runs - configured in a linear method. If re-doing the wiring (due to bad connection or defective break away switch), recommended the install of thicker 10 gauge wiring in a STAR design using outside the axle method.

If wondering, all my trailers (boat, utility, TT) have upgraded brake wiring - with much better STAR design. Comparing before (factory design) and much better STAR design is amazing. IMO, STAR design should be new factory code. Especially if someone needs to fix factory wiring problems.

For pictures, surf my previous post within: - click here -

[DutchmenSport]

Had a similar problem with my Springdale several years ago. I even had it to a repair shop 3 times to fix the problem. First we thought it was the 7 pin on the truck. Changed that out. Worked OK for a short while and then brakes started failing again.

Next, changed out the pig tail on the trailer. This worked again for a short while and then brakes started failing again, controler whacking out, everything weird.

Finally, on the 3rd attempt, found out the wires going to the trailer brakes were rubbing and had a bare spot on them (both sides), and when everything was just right, the would short out, touch the rubbed spot against the trailer metal. Dealer repair shop fixed the wires, gave them a bit more length, and I never had problems again.

Check the camper, around the brakes, for wires that might have rubbed bare. Just guessing, but a close inspection will not cost anything.

Good luck!

[Tom_Barb]

perigaut wrote:
A few months ago, I had to slam on the breaks while towing a trailer (2016 Jayco Jayflight 27BHS) to avoid an accident. While everything checked out okay, my tow vehicle (2011 Dodge Ram 5.7L) now says that the trailer brakes are not connected when the 7-pin harness is in. The console says to check the wiring on the trailer. To make sure it wasn’t a problem with the tow vehicle, I hooked up to another trailer and had no problems. I checked wiring (simple layman physical inspection) and replaced the fuse; however, that only partially fixed the problem. Now when I initially hook up, it says trailer brake connected, but as soon as I drive off, my trailer brakes go on and off every minute while I drive. Other than being annoying, it seems that it would be dangerous to take a 50% chance the trailer brakes don’t work when I need them.
Any advice or thoughts?

Thanks.

Phil

The Emergency brake away switch is closed, and the trailer battery is nearly dead. reset the switch and you'll be OK. When you are connected your truck is charging the trailer battery, then the brakes come on. as soon as they come on they discharge the trailer battery again.
cycling like that is not good.

[BFL13]

What fuse did you replace? AFAIK there is not supposed to be a fuse on the blue brake wire going to the brake wires in the trailer.

[Lwiddis]

"Any advice or thoughts?"

Donn is probably right but a pro needs to fix this.