Tub Drain

[Darklock]

This afternoon I decided to do a quick bit of maintenance. Check the water heater anode rod and flush the tank. One thing lead to another. Why not sanitize the freshwater tank while I'm at it?

To flush the system, I used the bathtub faucet. I have always had a little water on the floor after showering, figured it was just water getting by the curtain. But while running the tub today, I found the same small puddle.

Some investigation revealed that the tub leaks around the drain. This is because the P-trap is directly touching the floor. Stepping in the tub caused enough flex to put upward pressure on the drain basket and a breaking of the seal of plumbers putty.

I've got about a ten inch by ten inch hole to work with. I can either see what I'm looking at or have an arm in there working. Not both. Not sure how I am going to get a second arm in there to hold two wrenches to work with in order to re-puddy the drain.

After this, I need to figure some bracing to stop any of the flex, or the problem will continue. There may even by some room for this bracing to fit. Fingers crossed.

[Fisherman]

Sorry but the last thing I'd use there is silicone, sooner or later it will fail. There should be a rubber gasket between the drain and the upper side of the floor of the tub.

[ScottG]

If they really used plumbers putty then that's the problem. Never use plumbers putty on any plastic (read the can). Plastic requires silicone.
Even lic. plumbers make this mistake and it will work for a few years but eventually it will fail.

[mobeewan]

My tub drain was cocked, warping the tub floor at the drain when it was built. There was always a puddle of water that would not drain from the tub. The drain piping under the tub was installed incorrectly causing pressure on the tub drain fitting making it warp the tub floor.

The dealer did an improper warranty fix by cutting away the piece of wood paneling on the side of the tub and adding a pipe strap to pull the drain straighter. He then restapled and glued the paneling back to the wood framing supporting the tub.

It was better but water still puddled in the tub. They also put the piece of paneling back but there was no support at the edge where they cut it to remove it. You could actually push it in and stick your fingers under the tub.

I removed the paneling again and replaced the fittings under the tub with the correct length pieces so that the drain would not warp the tub. I had to remove the tub drain and reseal it because it was pushed out of alignment with the hole in the tub and I was afraid the pushing back-and-forth to get it straight again would cause it to leak.

There was an access panel that could be removed in the bottom of the closet that allowed access to the back of the electrical panel under the closet door, access to the drain plumbing for the tub and connections to the grey water and black water tank vent pipes.

I could only reach the drain piping with my right hand. I was able to get a neighbor to help hold the drain in place and keep it from spinning by using a pair of needle nose pliers while I tightened the drain fitting nut and again when I tightened the p-trap to the drain fitting. I also used fresh plumbers putty on the drain fitting.

I reinstalled the piece of paneling on the side of the tub by adding a piece of 2x2 to support the edge of the paneling and reattached the paneling using painted screws to keep it removable in case I had to go back in. Every once in a while I would check in through the bottom of the closet to make sure the drain piping wasn't leaking.

[Fisherman]

I would suggest that the screw together tub drain is not wrench tightened, no need to, there's no pressure involved. If you can loosen the connection, see if you can possibly push the P trap connection upwards and then re tighten. Not a bad idea to stiffen up the bottom of the tub, I still have to do my floppy shower floor next spring.