Update Norcold 1201LRIM jumpered thermostatic switch

[Canadian_Rainbi]

The subject line pretty much says it all.

Freezer is cold; -9C (15F)



edit***I just checked the back wall of the freezer using an IR thermometer: 3.9F***

Fridge is way too warm, +14C (57F) and rising with the ambient temp: 29C (84F)

We are in southern Mexico. No parts or service here. We are supposed to be on the road to PV in the morning.

Thanks

[Starburst2]

I just posted with a similar problem. I did a search and it came up with 0 posts. Now I find this one with almost identical symptoms. What gives?????
Doug Rainer states that the blockage is as hard as a weld. If so, how can this suddenly occur? My refer is in my new Winnebago Sightseer less than 10 months old. The refer has worked well since new. I bought it in Mesa AZ and the temps were over 100 outside and the fridge worked great but it did not stand up to the Texas RGV temps in the 90's only a few months later. is this an indication of poor quality on Norcold's part or is it an aberration?
I would appreciate your comments as well Doug. I just posted about a half hour ago.
Regards,
Lloyd

[Starburst2]

Since I have near identical problems should I be going to Winnebago for a new Fridge since it is still under warranty?
Lloyd

[Starburst2]

I just posted with a similar problem. I did a search and it came up with 0 posts. Now I find this one with almost identical symptoms. What gives?????
Doug Rainer states that the blockage is as hard as a weld. If so, how can this suddenly occur? My refer is in my new Winnebago Sightseer less than 10 months old. The refer has worked well since new. I bought it in Mesa AZ and the temps were over 100 outside and the fridge worked great but it did not stand up to the Texas RGV temps in the 90's only a few months later. Is this an indication of poor quality on Norcold's part or is it an aberration?
I would appreciate your comments as well Doug. I just posted about a half hour ago.
Regards,
Lloyd

[dougrainer]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
That is why I asked FINS? Fins are for heat absorbsion.

Take a large screwdriver by the handle and TAP the entire cooling unit as far up as you can reach, then shut it down. By the good fortune of CHOC MOOL if the phase of the moon and tides are synchronized, when you re-fire the unit back up after a 1-2 day wait, things return to normal. I've seen too many NORCOLD refrigerators fixed this way (including 2 of mine) to call it coincidence.

I guess KNOWLEDGE and Training and EXPERIANCE mean nothing to people like you. A partial blocked CU CANNOT be fixed or unblocked by banging or tapping or Burping on any part of the cooling unit. The Blockage (partial or full) is as HARD AS A WELD and is adhered to the inside tubing. When they used to rebuild(rebuilders do this now) cooling units for blockage (partial or full), they CUT OUT the area that has that blockage and welded a new tube section in place as you could not break loose or remove that blockage. If you do a search you can find one of the rebuilders website and he has cut out a cross section of the blocked tube showing the hard blockage. Doug

[MEXICOWANDERER]

That is why I asked FINS? Fins are for heat absorbsion.

Take a large screwdriver by the handle and TAP the entire cooling unit as far up as you can reach, then shut it down. By the good fortune of CHOC MOOL if the phase of the moon and tides are synchronized, when you re-fire the unit back up after a 1-2 day wait, things return to normal. I've seen too many NORCOLD refrigerators fixed this way (including 2 of mine) to call it coincidence.

[Old-Biscuit]

dougrainer wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
"Absorption fridges cool or don't----no in between (freezer cooling and food section not)"

Incorrect. A blocked cooling unit will still freeze the freezer and not cool the bottom. The blockage is AFTER the freezer coil sections on most cooling units. This is why some cannot believe they have a defective cooling unit. Doug

Just curious......

With blockage how can it continue to cool without flow which transfers the heat?

The Blockage(partial) is after the freezer coils and is enough to freeze the freezer and enough to inhibit the complete transfer of cold in the lower section. Very few have COMPLETE blockage. As I stated, when this happens, the RV'er cannot believe he has a defective cooling unit. Also, this was a very common scam selling used units. The seller would show the freezer frozen and the novice buyer thought the refer was working. THEN found out too late the had a $1000 plus problem. Doug

Thanks!
Always looking to gleam more info.

[dougrainer]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
"Absorption fridges cool or don't----no in between (freezer cooling and food section not)"

Incorrect. A blocked cooling unit will still freeze the freezer and not cool the bottom. The blockage is AFTER the freezer coil sections on most cooling units. This is why some cannot believe they have a defective cooling unit. Doug

Just curious......

With blockage how can it continue to cool without flow which transfers the heat?

The Blockage(partial) is after the freezer coils and is enough to freeze the freezer and enough to inhibit the complete transfer of cold in the lower section. Very few have COMPLETE blockage. As I stated, when this happens, the RV'er cannot believe he has a defective cooling unit. Also, this was a very common scam selling used units. The seller would show the freezer frozen and the novice buyer thought the refer was working. THEN found out too late the had a $1000 plus problem. Doug

[Old-Biscuit]

dougrainer wrote:
"Absorption fridges cool or don't----no in between (freezer cooling and food section not)"

Incorrect. A blocked cooling unit will still freeze the freezer and not cool the bottom. The blockage is AFTER the freezer coil sections on most cooling units. This is why some cannot believe they have a defective cooling unit. Doug

Just curious......

With blockage how can it continue to cool without flow which transfers the heat?

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Thanks Moisheh, I'll look into that in PV We're out of here in a very short time. Packing the laptop up!

I'll also try removing the top vent but the ladder is locked and loaded!

[dougrainer]

" have looked at the diagrams and replacing those fans doesn't appear to be an easy job. Being in a 2002 rig, perhaps we should just replace the fridge?"

You would rather spend upwards of $3000 to replace your refer instead of spending $500 to fix it???????????? Come to DFW Texas when you decide. I LIKE people that have a LOT of extra money to spend:B Doug

[moisheh]

Art: Sorry to hear of your problem. The fans are available in Mexico. If you cannot access them from the top vent then the fridge has to come out. You would need to make some sort of platform to hold the fridge. The best place for the fans is Steren. They have 2 locations in PV. Go to steren.com.mx and do a search for tiendas. Steren is like a radio shack but better. The fans do not have to be exactly the same. I am sure they have 2 that are close. Are you running on electric or propane? Your best answers have come from Dougrainer. He is a tech supreme! You will not find any parts for your fridge in Mexico. Nor a decent tech. Good Luck.

Moisheh

[Ivylog]

Let see, you put the vent covers on and now you have a problem???? You can travel with the vent covers off. You might be able to reach the power cord to the fans that are located near the top through the top vent. Assuming the fans are not working I'd try running 12V to the power cord after the Tstat.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Thanks Doug, Yes, it's in a slide and we have the upper door. The bad news is that my very efficient small 120V fan is at home!!!!

I will have to see what I can find in PV. Fortunately I have a few friends there that should help me locate one.

I have looked at the diagrams and replacing those fans doesn't appear to be an easy job. Being in a 2002 rig, perhaps we should just replace the fridge?

We're leaning to a residential: for now we have adequate solar and a good inverter. Later we could split the solar, add a couple of AGMs 6V and a separate converter to charge them.

Meanwhile. . . . .

A final question or two:

Would it be dangerous to keep running the fridge when the freezer still freezes but the rest doesn't cool?

Would removing the vent covers help? It was after we replaced the vent covers getting ready to leave that we noticed the fridge was warm.

When we get to PV we have a largish (12" blade) AC fan that I could stick in the vent hole.

Meanwhile we have a small styrofoam cooler and a bag or two if ice.

[dougrainer]

If your refer is in a slide room and the rear fans are inop, the refer will NOT operate at all. There is a big difference in operation on a 1200 series between installed in a slide room and having the top roof top vent. In a slide room, there is NO WAY to adequately remove the hot convection air when the fans fail. The GOOD news is this. IF you have the upper door, you can install a small 120 fan blowing out in that cavity to get the refer operating until you get the fans replaced. Doug

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Well, sounds like a new fridge is in the forecast. Hope MexW's suggestion works, otherwise we'll be buying a small fridge in Puerto Vallarta!

I suppose the only safe thing is to shut the fridge down now. Stack temp is 233F and the fins in the fridge are 53. Back wall of freezer is 2.2F

Going to dinner for the "Last Supper", we leave in the morning.

Mex, I'd give a blast on the airhorns as we pass but they aren't working either!

Internet has been on and off all day, we'll check back this evening. Likely no internet for several days after that.

Thanks

Art