Using TT in sub-freezing temps/elect. What's required?

[EstorilM]

Hi everyone,
There's a possibility that I may need to use my TT for a month or two this fall when temps may fall below freezing (and for future reference, I'm curious about this in general).

The 2570RL has the arctic package and is fully enclosed, but I'm not sure exactly how much that helps in the real world.

My main issue is that I'll probably be running electric heat, which obviously bypasses all of the heat ducts underneath that likely keep everything well above freezing.

Has anyone just modified an electric ceramic-type heater into the existing floor ducting so that you can heat the interior while still bleeding enough heat off to keep the pipes from freezing? It's an RL so has 2 grey tanks, one for galley and one for the bathroom - the plumbing is rather spread out for its size.

[Second_Chance]

If you want to go all-electric with your main furnace and keep the basement thawed, this is the way to go:

Cheap Heat

The installation is pricey, but lots of full-timers swear by them. We have weathered stretches of single-digit lows and sub-freezing highs for a week or two at a time (often with 40 MPH winds) on propane heat. We supplement with the electric fireplace and put a ceramic heater on a thermostat in the basement to help, but always make sure the main furnace is cycling. At the worst, we've gone through 30 lbs. of propane in about 3 days.

We use a heated water hose but fill up the fresh tank, disconnect the water and use the pump on the coldest of nights. I wait until sunny afternoons to drain the waste tanks so the stinky slinky doesn't freeze up, too. Reflectix cut to fit in the windows helps if you don't have dual pane windows.

Rob

[Old-Biscuit]

IF you have 'electric' available then just RUN the propane furnace and use the available electric to maintain/charge batteries...converter is going to be working anyway for DC System use

Living in sub-freezing temps is daunting enough w/o creating other issues