Water heater recovery time?

[Kayteg1]

Did anybody actually timed water heater recovery time?
We do have not-metered electricity at the park, so anticipating it, I added electric element to my gas WH.
When I start the electric first time, after 20 minutes the water was still FREEZING.
Anyway, I set the thermostat to pretty high and add some insulation to WH, where manufacturer left holes, so we are comfortable with taking several minutes long shower, even back to back, but once the water turn cold, it takes very long time to recover.
I read that some owners, to get fast recovery turn the electric at gas at the same time, but how much that actually helps?

[pianotuna]

Hi KayTeg1,

There are "on demand" 120 volt electric heaters intended to be installed at the tap. I think they might be used in series with the existing water tank to extend the length of a shower.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Quip-Compact-Whirlpool-Heater-PH101-15UV/dp/B003ANJ8ZW/ref=sr_1_12?ie=U...

[Old-Biscuit]

Kayteg1 wrote:
I found those 1400W elements, but even they don't list the thread size, info says they have 1 1/2" hex, so the thread next to it has to big as well.
Not likely will fit into 3/4" hole I have on my Atwood.

You are getting confused.

OEM..that is an electric heat element that is part of a WH that has an electric heat element Option. WH Tank is designed with proper size opening to accept the OEM FACTORY heat element.

Unless you change WH tank to one with that Option you can NOT install it after market.

That is why the aftermarket heat rods go in thru the drain hole and why those heat rods are low wattage......because rod is small.

You mention 3/4" hole on your Atwood. :H

Atwood drain hole is 1/2" and tank is aluminum.
Suburban drain hole is 3/4" and is a steel tank---which is glass-lined. And being STEEL it requires an anode rod to protect steel tank from corrosion.

So if you have a 3/4" drain hole then you have a Suburban WH and that heat rod is installed when anode rod should be.....so hopefully you got the KIT with the anode rod attachment. Even though the anode rod is very small at least it is something which is better then NO anode rod. Course being small it will dissolve very quickly and have to be replaced frequently or steel tank will not be protected.


Better to burn the propane ......faster recovery

[Kayteg1]

I found those 1400W elements, but even they don't list the thread size, info says they have 1 1/2" hex, so the thread next to it has to big as well.
Not likely will fit into 3/4" hole I have on my Atwood.

[Kayteg1]

Frugal is one thing, but having electricity I am not looking forward into disconnecting my propane cylinders and hauling them for refiling.
Especially with last 2 weeks of rain where doing anything outside is a big hassle.
Anyway, the few responses confirmed my guess that my element needs long hours to heat up my water.
So far we had no problem beside when 1 time I took shower 1/2 hr after DW and had about 80F water.
Just one more thing to remember that when you run out of hot water in the morning, don't plan on hot shower till the afternoon.
Than good to know 1400W element are available. I have to research it farther.

[janechucknicode]

I don't know about you guys,but when we decide to take showers, we turn on the gas, or gauz were ever you say it. the recovery is very good and we do not linger but have very good showers. As workers in parks we get dirty and sweat so every evening shower, who has a problem . Some don;t have gas ?? or too frugal to turn it on?
Works for us. Have a hot water on me.
Cheers and safe travels....
:B

[pianotuna]

Hi KayTeg1,

From an ambient of 68 f to first cycle on a ten gallon water heater on electric is 90 minutes. My OEM draws 1231 watts. That is about 6300 BTU's.

If no water is drawn then the heater cuts back in after 4 hours and takes about 15 minutes to cycle.

[Old-Biscuit]

Kayteg1 wrote:
What OEM has 1400W ?
The only element I could find was 350W. I was considering one of those 450W design for 10 gallons WH, but not being sure it will fit, I gave up.
We stay in 40-50'F weather and the fresh water has to be in this range.
So judging on my 20 minute test, I think it takes long hours to get WH to set 130F, but I am not willing to sit and wait.

OEM.....Original Equipment Manufacturer

Atwood and Suburban WHs that come with electric are 1400W elements.

Your 350W will take HOURS to re-heat your 6 gal WH with 40-50*F inlet water.
USE BOTH for faster recovery.....and that small electric to maintain

[Kayteg1]

What OEM has 1400W ?
The only element I could find was 350W. I was considering one of those 450W design for 10 gallons WH, but not being sure it will fit, I gave up.
We stay in 40-50'F weather and the fresh water has to be in this range.
So judging on my 20 minute test, I think it takes long hours to get WH to set 130F, but I am not willing to sit and wait.

[Old-Biscuit]

First off........
Recovery time is VERY dependent on temp of water supply source temp and amount of heat used.

Your 'ADD ON' element is what 325W/450W?

OEM electric element is 1400W

And YES 'fastest recovery' is using BOTH electric and propane at same time.

WH Rated Recovery Times...based on 70*F inlet water
Electric only...... 6 gal/hr
Propane only...... 11.5--13.5 gal/hr (depends on burner size)
BOTH.............. 18-20 gal/hr