Water Heater

[glennemay]

Hey all,

I have an old 1984 Layton Funtime 35' TT that I have been slowly restoring over the past couple of years (While we use the hell out of it :)) The old girl has treated us well, but as with any older anything it requires a little more TLC than say a new one would.


When we bought the trailer 5 years ago, the water heater failed on the previous owner. He removed it, and now I have a gaping hole under my dinette.. So fast forward and we are camping a little differently now than we were then. A water heater is quickly becoming something I need to consider and soon.

Since I have nothing in there to figure out what I am replacing, I would like to know if there is a way that I can tell what is going to work? Or does it really matter as long as it fits.

If I had my preference, it would be a direct spark of course, as pilots are a pain in the backside. 6 gallons would be more than enough (5 years of cold showers have taught me to REALLY conserve water.)

Anyway. Any help or suggestions is well appreciated. if anyone has a used working unit they want to sell, I certainly would entertain that thought as well. Unfortunately there are not many RV salvage yards up here in the North East.



Thanks again.


Glenn

[glennemay]

Wow, Thank you for the information. I most definitely am leaning towards the direct spark. Never have been a fan of pilots in something being towed. 🙂

SO the measurements are they of the opening, or the cavity? (I am assuming that they are of the outside of the framework where the electrics are, and the inside of the doorway.)

[72cougarxr7]

I bought an Atwood 6 gallon unit off ebay, far cheaper than any of the local RV shops were asking for them.
Mine is a gas pilot only model, I think I paid $240
Looks like the direct spark ignition models can be found on there for around $300.

I've actually been pretty impressed by my Atwood unit, when I get parked, I lite the pilot and I have hot water in about 30 minutes. Last trip, I lit it Friday and it ran till mid day Sunday and I didn't have to touch it the whole time. Insulation on the tank is pretty good, once the water is up to temp, the unit rarely cycles on other than when hot water is used.

[Old-Biscuit]

Some measurements for you

Suburban WHs
6 gallon water heater features 12,000 BTU's.
12-11/16" H x 12-11/16" W x 19-3/16" D.

10 gallon water heater features 12,000 BTUs.
16-7/32"H x 16-7/32"W x 20-1/2"D.


Atwood WHs
6 gallon Output: 8,800 BTUs.
16"W x 12.5"H x 16.9"D. Depth may vary between 16.9" and 18.5"

10 gallon Output: 10,000 BTUs.
15.5"H x 16"W x 21"D.

[nineoaks2004]

westend wrote:
When I was shopping them a couple of years ago, I found some sold by dealers on E Bay that were fairly reasonable in price. Availability was everything from DS propane-only to electric-propane combined.

BTW, hopefully you saved the door to the compartment and the new heater gets along with that. Otherwise, you'll need a new door too.

X 2

[DaHose]

I have a 1983 Jamboree. It was a top of the line unit in its day and it has a 6 gallon. That is enough hot water for three of us to shower, so I recommend no smaller than that.

Here is a good price on a 6 gallon direct spark.

6 gallon water heater on sale

Check those measurements against your opening and see what comes of it. Whatever you buy, I highly recommend direct spark. I also don't recommend tankless, unless grey water storage is not an issue.

Jose

[westend]

When I was shopping them a couple of years ago, I found some sold by dealers on E Bay that were fairly reasonable in price. Availability was everything from DS propane-only to electric-propane combined.

BTW, hopefully you saved the door to the compartment and the new heater gets along with that. Otherwise, you'll need a new door too.

[doughere]

Maybe a pretty flip answer, BUT:

Get a 6 gallon direct spark unit and figure out how to make it fit. I'd guess there's a 99% chance its pretty much the right size hole and will just require a little dressing up to install.

Regards,
Doug