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wires to battery corroded through

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
My trailer serves as our guest home so itโ€™s been parked for about 12 months. Always plugged in, fridge runs, etc. I filled the batteries monthly.

I went out last month and 2 wires hooked up to one of the batteries had corroded through. One black one goes to the lift jack. The other red one goes ???

As the trailer is plugged in the lights, fridge, etc still work. However I think the lift jack wonโ€™t (I havenโ€™t tried it because the trailer is blocked in and the slide is out with a guest).

Anyway - several questions.
1. Where do I buy replacement wire ends so they can reattach to the battery?
2. How do I connect the new wire ends to the old wires coming out of the lift jack and the ???
3. How do I prevent this kind of corrosion in the future?

These are 2 golf cart style batteries. Theyโ€™re six years old and I should probably replace them anyway.

Iโ€™m not sure if i can post them but I have photos of the corroded bits. If you need any other info please let me know, thanks for your help.
20 REPLIES 20

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
There is a grease like substances used with Aluminum conductors, wire/busbar, to prevent corrosion.

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
CA Traveler wrote:
rvshrinker wrote:

3. How do I prevent this kind of corrosion in the future? Flooded batteries corrode. Try AGM, Li etc


Place a large GOB of Vaseline on top of the battery terminal/post and on any exposed copper. Make sure some goes underneath the terminal.

The corrosion is caused by gases escaping from around the the post. Vaseline "seals" it in !

Rred
Explorer
Explorer
Coupla wiring hintz. Make sure you are buying tinned copper wird--it does not corrode. Plain copper always will corrode. Do not buy " CCA" wire. That's cooper coated aluminum. Carries less power, corrodes, fools people who are just looking to save money.
Ask your library, or go to Amazon, for a book by Nigel Calder or Don Casey on BOAT electronics. They'll explain the best ways to select wire, properly buy and make fittings, corrosion proof your work.
It is easy to do it right. Will take twice as long and cost a bit more, but the work will hold up over time. The little details count.

Chum_lee
Explorer
Explorer
rvshrinker wrote:


there's no way to tell how much life is left on these batteries, right? I'd hate to be somewhere and have them die on me. We don't live in a hot climate but the first few years I didn't care for them as well and they dried once and completely discharged once or twice.


Not so fast. There are many ways to tell how much life is left in your flooded cell deep cycle batteries.

1. At six years of age, you are on borrowed time.

2. The fact that you must add water monthly, and when charging, also means you are on borrowed time. Do you use distilled water?

3. The fact that they are off gassing (when charging) enough to damage the cables also tells you that you are on borrowed time.

4. Fully charge and equalize the batteries. Let them sit disconnected for several weeks. How well do they hold a charge?

5. Are the cases bulging at the exterior on the sides?

6. Does the specific gravity vary (as the batteries charge/discharge) relatively consistently, or, do one or more cells (usually the end cells) vary substantially from the others?

7. Does the fully charged voltage remain at/above about 12.8 volts for at least a day?

The above are all simple checks you can do today to decrease the chances that you are "surprised" on your next excursion.

Chum lee

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Gary45 wrote:
apply vaseline to bare connections, will prevent corrosion

Be GENEROUS !

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
rvshrinker wrote:

.
.
.
3. How do I prevent this kind of corrosion in the future?

The BEST solution, is replace the wire, end-to-end, with marine grade, pre-tinned wire of the same size. If end-to-end replacement, cut the wire about 2' away from the the battery. Splice in the marine grade wire using an uninsulated splice and use marine/dual wall heat shrink tubing to cover it.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Note if the connections to the battery are the standard crimp on ring connectors not a good fit.. You really need proper battery connectors.. The metal is a bit different... Different metals when you pass current especially around batteries. tend to corrode swiftly... Properly near identical metals.. Much much much more slowly.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
this probably seems simple to you, but a search for Rv 8 gauge wire at amazon rwsults in a huge variet of products.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rv+8+gauge+wire&crid=9YA463VKY7MI&sprefix=rv+8+gauge+wire%2Caps%2C165&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Amazon. Make sure the wire is all copper. Typical auo stores have limited supply. Electric stores supply houses and buildings.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
well, these things are never simple or quick.

auto parts store had 10 gauge wire but not less, except for actual 4 gauge battery cables. but those had the wrong size stud rings. they had 3/8" 8 and 10 gauge stud rings which i bought.

i think the black/neg wire is 10 gauge so that's all good. but the red is bigger than that - guessing 8 ga?

went to the electric store. they have wire but don't think it will work. they looked at the cross-hatch of the wires showing several dozen strands and don't think what they sell is compatible.

if I buy 4 ga battery cables and clip them (kind of wasteful at $13 each) I would stil need a way to attach two different gauges together (4 ga red to 8 ga red and 4 ga black to 10 ga black).

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
About the right gauge. :@

OK Measure the copper diameter and look up the gauge. :B
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
yes i agree

ok what gauge wire do you think the positive and negative are?

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
You are running on borrowed time if you are saying that you are still using the same batteries that dried out. If you only go to full hookup sites then don't worry about it and keep camping. If you regularly boondock then replace the damaged batteries and move on with life.

Costco and Sams Club have the best battery prices.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
so first let me fix these wires so my liftjack works

there's no way to tell how much life is left on these batteries, right? I'd hate to be somewhere and have them die on me. We don't live in a hot climate but the first few years I didn't care for them as well and they dried once and completely discharged once or twice.