NRALIFR wrote:
Staying warm in -20 is going to take a fair amount of energy.
Airdrie is in Alberta, Canada north of Calgary. Considering the weather conditions he’s talking about hunting in, I can imagine he’s using every watt that generator can produce to stay warm overnight. Lows of -20 are going to make batteries less capable of providing needed power, and make it more difficult to recharge them.
Adding batteries to the wheel wells isn’t always as easy as you might imagine due to the shape of the bed where the side walls meet the floor. There’s a curve there on Ford trucks that make it necessary to raise the battery up a few inches to get the width needed for the camper tub. The Okanagan 811 is a basement camper, with the floor height above the wheel wells. The floor of the camper also extends over the tops of the wheel wells, reducing the available height in the bed areas in front of and behind them.
Placing group 24 or 27’s or 6 volt batteries there before loading will make the camper more difficult to load, and the batteries will be even more exposed to ambient temperature than the ones in the battery box. While more batteries is generally a good thing, In the conditions Chad is talking about, I would want to add them inside the heated space of the camper.
Basement campers don’t usually have access to the wheel well areas while the camper is on the truck, but non-basement campers like mine typically do. I’m already using the majority of that space for items that can fit through the access doors on each side.
I’m glad to see that there’s an extended run kit available for the Yamaha 1000 now. I have one as well, and 99% of the time it’s all the generator I need. It’s size and weight are much more compatible with my needs and available storage space than any 2000 watt gen. When I first got mine over 12 years ago I looked for an extended run tank, but there just wasn’t much available for it, unlike the more common 2000 watt models.
This seems to be the extended run system I see most often for the Yamaha 1000/2000 generators.
Bergs System YMH1.2000IS
:):)
I AM familiar with Fords AND TCs, grew up in a "Ford Family", Dad had Fords his entire life. Dad also used a TC for yrs.. I HELPED with loading and unloading Dads TC up to and a few years after I finished Tech school.
Dad ALSO had both a "floor" and "basement TCs" and BOTH only have contact with the the bed BETWEEN the wheel wells.
Space between the wheel wells is a little over 4 ft so you can slide a sheet of plywood between wheel wells..
There IS space in front and behind the wheel wells that BOTH a floor and Basement TC never touch, and is dead space and it IS large enough to place some batteries..
A simple homemade battery rack from even a few 2x4s will suffice to allow at least one group27 in front and behind each wheel well.. A little bit of noodling most likely could fit 4 GC2s beside the TC..
Heck even UNDER the truck on the outside of the frame there IS lots of DEAD unused space.. One could easily hide a body in those spaces..
You don't load and wire the batteries as you load the TC, you load and wire them BEFORE you load the TC. Then you can connect them to your TC after it has been loaded..
By the way, OP using 900W gen pretty much means they are using an electric space heater instead of the on board propane heater, not the most cost effective way to heat.. OPs on board furnace can EASILY operate overnight on one group27 without the need to run a gen all night..
I personally would rather listen the propane furnace than even a 900W gen all night.
Use the propane furnace to heat and the gen in the morning to charge up the batteries.. It WILL work even at -20..
For some reason folks have a real issue using the built in propane furnaces, that is what they are designed to do.
Staying warm in -20 is going to take a fair amount of energy.
Airdrie is in Alberta, Canada north of Calgary. Considering the weather conditions he’s talking about hunting in, I can imagine he’s using every watt that generator can produce to stay warm overnight. Lows of -20 are going to make batteries less capable of providing needed power, and make it more difficult to recharge them.
Adding batteries to the wheel wells isn’t always as easy as you might imagine due to the shape of the bed where the side walls meet the floor. There’s a curve there on Ford trucks that make it necessary to raise the battery up a few inches to get the width needed for the camper tub. The Okanagan 811 is a basement camper, with the floor height above the wheel wells. The floor of the camper also extends over the tops of the wheel wells, reducing the available height in the bed areas in front of and behind them.
Placing group 24 or 27’s or 6 volt batteries there before loading will make the camper more difficult to load, and the batteries will be even more exposed to ambient temperature than the ones in the battery box. While more batteries is generally a good thing, In the conditions Chad is talking about, I would want to add them inside the heated space of the camper.
Basement campers don’t usually have access to the wheel well areas while the camper is on the truck, but non-basement campers like mine typically do. I’m already using the majority of that space for items that can fit through the access doors on each side.
I’m glad to see that there’s an extended run kit available for the Yamaha 1000 now. I have one as well, and 99% of the time it’s all the generator I need. It’s size and weight are much more compatible with my needs and available storage space than any 2000 watt gen. When I first got mine over 12 years ago I looked for an extended run tank, but there just wasn’t much available for it, unlike the more common 2000 watt models.
This seems to be the extended run system I see most often for the Yamaha 1000/2000 generators.
Bergs System YMH1.2000IS
:):)
Airdrie is in Alberta, Canada north of Calgary. Considering the weather conditions he’s talking about hunting in, I can imagine he’s using every watt that generator can produce to stay warm overnight. Lows of -20 are going to make batteries less capable of providing needed power, and make it more difficult to recharge them.
Adding batteries to the wheel wells isn’t always as easy as you might imagine due to the shape of the bed where the side walls meet the floor. There’s a curve there on Ford trucks that make it necessary to raise the battery up a few inches to get the width needed for the camper tub. The Okanagan 811 is a basement camper, with the floor height above the wheel wells. The floor of the camper also extends over the tops of the wheel wells, reducing the available height in the bed areas in front of and behind them.
Placing group 24 or 27’s or 6 volt batteries there before loading will make the camper more difficult to load, and the batteries will be even more exposed to ambient temperature than the ones in the battery box. While more batteries is generally a good thing, In the conditions Chad is talking about, I would want to add them inside the heated space of the camper.
Basement campers don’t usually have access to the wheel well areas while the camper is on the truck, but non-basement campers like mine typically do. I’m already using the majority of that space for items that can fit through the access doors on each side.
I’m glad to see that there’s an extended run kit available for the Yamaha 1000 now. I have one as well, and 99% of the time it’s all the generator I need. It’s size and weight are much more compatible with my needs and available storage space than any 2000 watt gen. When I first got mine over 12 years ago I looked for an extended run tank, but there just wasn’t much available for it, unlike the more common 2000 watt models.
This seems to be the extended run system I see most often for the Yamaha 1000/2000 generators.
Bergs System YMH1.2000IS
:):)
