YQK crimping tool

[JiminDenver]

In another thread we were discussing crimping and I was to tell y'all about the YQK-120 12 ton crimping tool I bought off of ebay.

First thing is they sent me the YQK 240 16 ton tool. Instead of the #10-120 dies, it has #16-240. I have anything under the #16 covered so it's all good I guess.

This is what I ordered.
YQK-120A

This is what I got
YQK-240A

Second is I was right to order big. There is no way the #50 die will do a 1/0 sized crimp. The #120 that was the largest in the tool I ordered will if using the wire and it's coating as a size indicator is anything.

The #95 was just the right size to crimp a 1/2 inch brass tube nice and pretty and the #25 did a right nice job on a 4 gauge lug I had. It crushed both down effortlessly, even when I recrimped them with the next size smaller die. I'll have to order some 1/0 lugs to play with.

So for less than $40 I doubt I'll ever have a issue crimping anything ever again.

[brulaz]

JiminDenver wrote:

...
Along with not having a tool to crimp 1/0, I guess I also don't have a tool to cut it. HF has a 10" pair that is suppose to be good up to 2/0 for under $10. A 28" set that would be a lot less effort for $19. Anything at HD is twice the cost.

Hack saw and vise?

Or metal cut-off blade in rotary saw?
Maybe over-kill.
Dremel with cut-off disc?
Maybe too small.

[JiminDenver]

Well 1/2 inch pipe wont do, too much material to get crimped down to 1/0. 3/8's ID might work but until then I got 17 1/0 lugs off ebay for $25. ($3 each at HD)

Along with not having a tool to crimp 1/0, I guess I also don't have a tool to cut it. HF has a 10" pair that is suppose to be good up to 2/0 for under $10. A 28" set that would be a lot less effort for $19. Anything at HD is twice the cost.

[Naio]

Thanks Mex :). I do use a breaker bar sometimes. Lost my favorite one, though. Sched 80 sounds like a nice lightweight substitute!

I am totally lolling at the image of you jumping on the 2x4. Maybe I should make me one of those :).

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Use brain and compass. Avoid creek. Canoe stay in garage.

[landyacht318]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:


If that breaker bar snout pin should break because of an insane amount of leverage I would be defintely up ---- creek without a boat never mind paddle.

I like the Aussie version of this.

Up $hit creek in a Barbed wire canoe without a paddle.

Picture painting at its finest.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

westend wrote:
Mex, I'd suggest to use a longer steel pipe for a breaker bar extension, old hips mend slowly.

If that breaker bar snout pin should break because of an insane amount of leverage I would be defintely up ---- creek without a boat never mind paddle.

And you are so correct about old bodies being fragile. I feel like a box of nitroglycerine headed for a paint shaker.

[JiminDenver]

This tool is cumbersome to use. It weighs 9 pounds and trying to use it free hand takes some getting use to. I found it was easiest to kneel on the ground and with one handle in my lap, hold what I was crimping in one hand and pump with the other. Next time I'll put in the vise of clamp it to the bench, there has to be a better way.

[westend]

Mex, I'd suggest to use a longer steel pipe for a breaker bar extension, old hips mend slowly.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Naio, go to a hardware store ask for SCHEDULE 80 PVC PIPE. Plastic. Thick and strong. Eigthteen inches otter do it. Lay the crimper on the ground slip the pipe over the crimper lever. Presto! Wonder Woman. Able to crimp monster battery cable. Due to various afflictions my hands are unable to open a screw cap on a bottle of soda. Too weak. I use my noggin when other parts fail me. Amplifier for phone and lip read in conversations. I break lugnuts loose by standing upright a foot tall 2X4 with a V-notch cut across the top. Impact wrench socket and extension. Harbor Freight 24" breaker bar. I can stand on it or jump up and down which I figure allows a thousand pounds feet of torque. Laughing grade more powerful than the strongest air gun wrench. The 2X4 you can make yourself with a saw. It is an unbelievable improvement in stability for the socket and wrench handle when jumping on the breaker bar. Muscle is low IQ use frontlal lobes. Effective substitute.

[Naio]

Thanks landyacht!

Yeah, that sounds like it takes too much muscle for me. After all, my hands would have to transmit the arm strength. Unless I can sit on the thing or something -- my mom once had a tubby cat who won all fights that way :).

As for my soldering skill -- I am terrible! The tendonitis impinges on my nerves, so I am not super coordinated for fine motor skills. But the cable I did the other day has been holding up to a bunch of flexing and pulling, so maybe I am getting less bad. Or maybe it's easier with bigger parts.

[landyacht318]

naio, if you have the skill and tools to properly solder 6awg wire, I say just continue that route.

Don't know about ratcheting crimpers for upto the 10 AWG terminals, but my hydraulic harbor freight crimper is not a one handed device. The last few compression strokes as the lug and copper stranding are at the limits of compress-ability, I use two hands and the strength of my arms to make the dies touch.

So the hand strength is not required as much with the Hydraulic crimper, it is more about dexterity to hold the lug inplace as one moves the arm closer to touch the dies to the lug, and hold the wire in place while getting those first few compression strokes in.

Once the lug is compressed enough for the wire to not fall out, I then use two hands, one to hold the tool and the other is on the handle to lever it closed. More arms strength required here than hand grip strength.

There is some awkwardness in the process of getting the Dies to hold the lug, and then holding the copper wire in place and then cranked down.

Lugs are too expensive for mistakes and redo's

[Naio]

Hey youse guys who have ratcheting crimpers, would one work for me? How much strength do they require?

I have really bad tendonitis in my hands. Even on a good day, even 18 gauge crimp connecters, I have to lay my little crimping pliers down on concrete and tap the handle with a hammer. Mostly I just solder, or ask a friend, 'Hey could you squeeze this?'

The other day I soldered a 6 gauge, using a propane backpacking stove! My big soldering iron seems to have grown legs. Also, electricity is not always convenient.

I am not too picky about looks; I can't be. But I like reliability.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Beware of the cheaper sets on eBay regardless on tonnage ratings. This is the reply to a message I sent to a 55 dollar 16-ton seller.

Dear Cheapskate*,

Thank u for message!
crimping dies

16
25
35
50
70
95
120
150
185
240
300 mm2

11 die pairs


Pls check it.
Have a nice day!

Maple

Best regards!
Customer service

*Yeah I edited the name. Sue me.

[brulaz]

MrWizard wrote:
When I make lugs, I set up an assembly line
I flatten the end of the copper tube in the vise
Then I center punch where I want the hole
Then drill the hole ( this way I can hold on to the pipe/tubing)
Then I cut off the lug from the tubing and start over
Only takes a couple of minutes per lug
I'll make more than I intend to immediately use
And make several sizes ( if needed for back up supply)
This happens about once a year,
Just went through this last Friday, I needed lugs for making inter connects for the new batteries

Have never heard of this but sounds like a great idea.

Do people here use flattened 1/2" copper pipe for bus bars and battery interconnects too?

Are they tinned? electrical solder or plumbing solder?

How much current can it carry? Too much to worry about?

[JiminDenver]

I looked at the 2 gauge starter cables from Walmart that I use on the inverter, they have ears. Go figure.

The seller of the tool is glad I don't want to exchange it but they do want pics of the tool and the shipping label. I assume someone will be getting chewed out for send the more expensive tool. Unfortunately they also don't have the die sets separately. I could make them but it would be cheaper just to buy a smaller tool.