16k Hitch vs.24k

[97winger]

Is there any disadvantage of using a 24k hitch to tow a 14 or 16k 5th wheel?

[Cummins12V98]

ralphnjoann wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Me Again wrote:

austingta wrote:
The Andersen Ultimate is rated at 24000 pounds. It works for anything. It's just over-qualified!

"It works for anything." True, however it comes with several compromises. Need for safety chairs, extra lifting and lowering of trailer to hitch and unhitch. Problems at service departments with them damaging the adapter. Greater chance of trailer hitting TV cab with SB trucks if not very careful.

Biggest PRO, light to remove and reinstall.

People claim smoother tow experience, which I question. Quality conventional 5th wheel hitches like B&W provide a very smooth tow experience. Chris

Don't forget that nice bed deflection towing in the upper weights you will have.

The OP's truck has standard hitch rails. A rail mounted Andersen cannot cause bed deflection as it rests on the rails, not the bed.

Good point!

[IdaD]

I love how the mere mention of the Andersen Ultimate brings out the same detractors posting the same stuff over and over. Mind you with no personal experience with the hitch. I've used standard fifth wheel hitches and the rail mount Andersen I'm using now is simply better in my opinion. A lot better, actually.

[ralphnjoann]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Me Again wrote:

austingta wrote:
The Andersen Ultimate is rated at 24000 pounds. It works for anything. It's just over-qualified!

"It works for anything." True, however it comes with several compromises. Need for safety chairs, extra lifting and lowering of trailer to hitch and unhitch. Problems at service departments with them damaging the adapter. Greater chance of trailer hitting TV cab with SB trucks if not very careful.

Biggest PRO, light to remove and reinstall.

People claim smoother tow experience, which I question. Quality conventional 5th wheel hitches like B&W provide a very smooth tow experience. Chris

Don't forget that nice bed deflection towing in the upper weights you will have.

The OP's truck has standard hitch rails. A rail mounted Andersen cannot cause bed deflection as it rests on the rails, not the bed.

[LIKE2BUILD]

Bionic Man wrote:
The 24k hitch is going to be significantly heavier than say an 18k.....have some sort of pulley system to remove it.....

That is a great solution. All of these hitches are heavy and all late model trucks are pretty tall. Unless you and a helper are tall, really stout guys you're going to have a rough time lifting these 200lbs + hitches in and out of the bed.

I installed a chain hoist in the ceiling of my garage. I loop a nylon strap around the hitch, lift it up with hoist, drive the truck out, then set it on a furniture dolly and roll it to the side for storage. Both my son and I are pretty strong guys and can lift the hitch off the floor fine. The problem becomes when you get the weight above your waist and military press it up into the bed. Sure, you can dismantle the hitches and remove it in pieces, but why? It's just a lot easier and safer to lift it up by a chain hoist and let the mechanical device do the hard, awkward work.

KJ

[LIKE2BUILD]

97winger wrote:
...just picked up a 2011 Ram 3500 DRW with standard hitch rails installed....I have a chance to get a 2009 Reese 24k Signature Series is there a problem with going over kill if I end up with a 14k unit.

That's a fine idea and will not be a problem. You have plenty of truck to handle way more than a 14K trailer. If the Reese is in good shape and is a bargain then go for it. Buying more hitch now just means if you get something bigger than expected or upgrade to a bigger trailer you don't have to change the hitch or anything on the truck.

As was said, the higher rated hitches can have better/stronger latches, more gussets, thicker metal, etc. to handle higher pin weights. My 5er is rated for 14K GVWR. I could have bought a 16K hitch and been in good shape, but a 20K hitch was only about $50 more. The little bit of $$ for extra rating was worth it to me. It wasn't necessary, but I liked having the extra capacity if needed..... buy once and be done.

KJ

[Bionic_Man]

The disadvantage comes when you need to move the hitch in and out of the truck. The 24k hitch is going to be significantly heavier than say an 18k.

If you leave it in the truck, or have some sort of pulley system to remove it, I don't think there is a disadvantage.

[Cummins12V98]

Me Again wrote:

austingta wrote:
The Andersen Ultimate is rated at 24000 pounds. It works for anything. It's just over-qualified!

"It works for anything." True, however it comes with several compromises. Need for safety chairs, extra lifting and lowering of trailer to hitch and unhitch. Problems at service departments with them damaging the adapter. Greater chance of trailer hitting TV cab with SB trucks if not very careful.

Biggest PRO, light to remove and reinstall.

People claim smoother tow experience, which I question. Quality conventional 5th wheel hitches like B&W provide a very smooth tow experience. Chris

Don't forget that nice bed deflection towing in the upper weights you will have.

[Me_Again]

Hitches rated for higher towing weights normally have better king pin capture/latch mechanisms. Win Win! Chris

[tinner12002]

97winger wrote:
Here's what I have going on. I just picked up a 2011 Ram 3500 DRW with standard hitch rails installed. We have not pick out a 5th wheel as of yet,it will be a toy hauler which will come in any where from 14k to 19k. So I have a chance to get a 2009 Reese 24k Signature Series is there a problem with going over kill if I end up with a 14k unit.

Absolutely not! It just means you have plenty of hitch for what your pulling. My small Hauler grosses out around #11500 and I have a 25K B&W hitch because I know I'm going bigger down the road and didn't want to buy 2 hitches. So if you get a deal on one go for it. You can always safely go bigger but I wouldn't ever go smaller even though I'm sure there is some wiggle room in their design but if it fails, then its on the owner at that point.

[MFL]

I see no problem with using a hitch, over rated for the job, especially if it is a quality hitch, and you are getting a good price. Many people try to fit the hitch to the truck. In your case 3500 DRW, a 24K hitch would not be over kill.

Jerry

[97winger]

Here's what I have going on. I just picked up a 2011 Ram 3500 DRW with standard hitch rails installed. We have not pick out a 5th wheel as of yet,it will be a toy hauler which will come in any where from 14k to 19k. So I have a chance to get a 2009 Reese 24k Signature Series is there a problem with going over kill if I end up with a 14k unit.

[austingta]

No problem at all.

[97winger]

Here's what I have going on. I just picked up a 2011 Ram 3500 DRW with standard hitch rails installed. We have not pick out a 5th wheel as of yet,it will be a toy hauler which will come in any where from 14k to 19k. So I have a chance to get a 2009 Reese 24k Signature Series is there a problem with going over kill if I end up with a 14k unit.

[ChuckV1]

I like allot of OP like the Curt line of 5ht wheel hitches, we have Curt 16K and really love it .....

But like anything, trailer brands, car brands, an many other things you will have OP stating theirs are the best and the rest is junk ......

The way I look at it is compare hitches, read allot, talk with people that already have the brand your looking installed, go to dealers or RV shows at look for yourself. This is not a cheap investment and make sure you know with confidence that the brand and size is right for your trailer .....