Grey Water Tank - Installation
With the new camper floor completed and in place I could begin to install "systems", or at least components of systems.
Like all of my work, I am picking and choosing as a combination of what feels right to do next, and what I want to work on next. I don't ever feel like I have to complete any particular "system" or job if it might be best to leave it undone for awhile to complete something more logical, or more enjoyable.
๐One of the "next" things I want to work on is the galley and great room - the interior furniture.
As I started to do so, it became logical to install the waste water tank. I slid it into position and placed the furniture around it.
I've had both the grey and fresh water tanks since last summer. As part of the early planning stage I wanted to make sure I could put ample sized systems in this smaller than typical self-contained camper. So I made accurate measurements and placed the orders. Of course I had to pay shipping and these are heavy enough that shipping isn't exactly cheap. I was just a little bit disappointed in the grey water tank's "exit" hole as it didn't sit low enough for complete drainage. Here you can see it closely.
So if the camper is leveled there's about 3/4" across the entire tank bottom that won't drain. Sure you could park uphill and that would help, but DW had a better idea. She asked if I could raise the front of the tank and the light bulb went on.
There wasn't MUCH room to slope the tank, but there was some. So by making a slightly higher cut in one place on the dinette furniture I was able to get the front of the tank 1.5" higher than the rear. And that will greatly help the drainage.
Here's where I cut the furniture.
and the other side...
And that allowed for these floor spacers.
Then I cut corner shaped cleats to secure the tank from moving backward or side to side at the rear...
And a spacer board that fastens to the underside of the shower pan floor board to prevent the tank from lifting at the rear.
And finally this little wall cleat to prevent the tank from shifting forward.
Here's how the rear looks with the shower pan floor board removed...
And with the floor board screwed down not only will the cleat hold down the tank, but the tank will act as some support for the floor board. And that tank is WAY stout. Much thicker material than I would have expected. And it's heavy but I forgot to weigh it.
Then I took it all apart and drilled screw holes in all the pieces. I made the holes larger than the screws so the screws would slide through the cleat and draw it tightly into the mounting surface.
Now I was ready to fasten the pieces all in place.
For the sidewall cleat I drove screws from outside in and ground down the protruding tips.
Then I washed and shop vac-ed that area of the floor and everything got a fresh coat of primer...
Once everything was dry and I was satiated I slid the tank into place and "snapped" it into position. Really, it actually snapped into position with that sidewall cleat the way it is. The furniture placement will keep the tank against the wall and properly in place behind the sidewall cleat.
And here are a series of shots with the furniture placed around.
Basement access and storage...
This will become the battery/electrical compartment and will include the grey tank connection for the bathroom sink.
One last thing. By raising the tank, it was even higher at it's front edge than where it passed under the furniture. Therefore I had to trim the back wall raised floor support cleat to fit. You see it here, unattached in the center of the picture.
By having the tank raised, and the gaps in various places below and around the tank, I should be able to control air movement adequately to keep the tank from freezing.
By re-using and modifying the various original storage location doors and drawer fronts I'll have easy access for cleaning and maintenance.