Today: Travel Queen Badging.
I guess it's called badging. That's what they called the fake chrome medallions saying stuff like Ram and 2500 and Dodge and Laramie when I ordered my truck back in '06.
I know it's not "gimp". It must be badging. You know, this stuff.
It was kinda cute, that day four years ago, when DSIL was looking at the two camper noses from the driveway (Queeny, and the parts Travel Queen), and we were discussing options to replace the factory original plastic pieces. That was before we got Lil' Queeny put up in the garage, even before we gave her a name - I think. He referred to it as a "Ravel Queen" and therein you see my problem.
He was looking at the top one in the above photo before I straightened - kinda - the vee in the plastic badging. You can still see signs of the bend in its center.
Yup, the front emblem had lost its "T" somewhere along the way. And their were none remaining on the parts camper.
My only full and "suitable for copy" badge was the lower one in the picture (from Queeny's back wall), and it wasn't perfect. It even still had excess (that stuff in plastic models you carefully remove from each tiny piece before painting) that I cut off here and there, around the lettering especially.
I had also used the heat gun and a pressing surface to flatten some warped areas, like indented screw holes, and lifting letters, etc.
In fact, here the other day I did even more heat and pressing (with a rounded hammer head face) against the screw hole depressions to further flatten them before making my mold.
Yup - mold. But we'll get to that. Back to the badging. Note the emblem has the words "Travel Queen" (manufacturer name, and the root of Lil' Queeny's personal name), and below that it says "Riverside, Calif." That's what we in the bidness call CA (California). Hey, those 60's were wild times out there. It's surprising it wasn't spelled something like Kalli-forny or some such.
But - apparently Travel Queen didn't build exclusively out of Riverside (funny - DW spent a few short years living in Riverside in her very young years). They apparently also had a factory in Nappanee, Indiana (as indicated through Interweb searches and on the last page of my Sales Brochure found SOMEWHERE in the early posts of this project. Maybe under Acquisition, Chapter 1).
So it's my guess the badging might say either Riverside, or Nappanee, under the words Travel Queen.
But what is the McKeesport, PA badge? I think it's a dealer location. Yeah I think the main badge is the manufacturer and the factory, and the separate addition below is the dealer added badge. Maybe. Here's the pic again, followed by pics while still on the camper.
So believe it or not, I think Lil' Queeny was originally built in CA (or Nappanee, IN, but with Riverside, CA badging), then delivered to a dealer and sold out of PA, and returned once again to the Best Coast, where we found her living in Oregon, and apparently for quite some time.
I've seen many Travel Queen Internet pictures with various dealer badging. Here's a pic of one of the cleanest units I've ever seen. And the badging is painted exactly how I'd like to do new ones on Queeny, with the beige, red and black. Note, this one must have been a Louisville, KY dealer.
Yeah - that day DSIL and I were discussing, I was kind of thinking of making some sort of wood badge (Teak? Waterproof? Because I'm a wood guy). He was thinking metal (because he's a metal guy). He was also thinking more custom/modern looking, with flames and jagged lettering, like lightning I think, because he's a Generation X'er, and they like that kind of stuff. I know - weird, but they have LOTS of weird ideas. Or maybe it's us? I don't know. :h
But I kind of wanted the same raised lettering, like you see in this picture.
Not only raised, but beveled. That would also assist the paint scheme desired. So because of that, and because I'm cheap, I bought materials to make my own.
Mold Making Stuff (left) and plastic material to pour INTO a mold (right). And a spray - for the mold - to allow the new unit to come out smoother.
That was about 300 years ago. I finally started working it the other day.
I started out by further flattening, like I said. Heat gun and pressing a hammer head into the back of the screw holes to re-shape their indented-ness closer into flat-ness. And a heated aluminum plate on top of a fully heated plastic badge on a heated bench. Then tire chains weight.
And that all did a real nice job. Next, proper surfaces, enter some old cookie sheets DW gave me years ago.
I put tape on the back to keep it from shifting.
And got my top pan ready.
Then opened up the stuff.
You mix equal parts and knead it into a consistency. You have 20 minutes of "workable" time. I grabbed the entire amounts from both containers...
And quickly "consisted" it.
Great exercise for the hands and fingers, like one of those biceps builder contraptions.
But by about 10 minutes in it was starting to set pretty quick, and became impossible to fully press around the letters. I had just SLIGHTLY too little. But I did the best I could, then left it alone and went out in the neighborhood to do some work for the association.
When I returned, I checked out my results.
Well THAT sucks!
:S
So I'm still thinking about what to do. I expect maybe a liquid pour-able stuff for making a mold. But I don't know what's available, or used, and I still haven't fully discounted metal or wood.
I guess it's called badging. That's what they called the fake chrome medallions saying stuff like Ram and 2500 and Dodge and Laramie when I ordered my truck back in '06.
I know it's not "gimp". It must be badging. You know, this stuff.
It was kinda cute, that day four years ago, when DSIL was looking at the two camper noses from the driveway (Queeny, and the parts Travel Queen), and we were discussing options to replace the factory original plastic pieces. That was before we got Lil' Queeny put up in the garage, even before we gave her a name - I think. He referred to it as a "Ravel Queen" and therein you see my problem.
He was looking at the top one in the above photo before I straightened - kinda - the vee in the plastic badging. You can still see signs of the bend in its center.
Yup, the front emblem had lost its "T" somewhere along the way. And their were none remaining on the parts camper.
My only full and "suitable for copy" badge was the lower one in the picture (from Queeny's back wall), and it wasn't perfect. It even still had excess (that stuff in plastic models you carefully remove from each tiny piece before painting) that I cut off here and there, around the lettering especially.
I had also used the heat gun and a pressing surface to flatten some warped areas, like indented screw holes, and lifting letters, etc.
In fact, here the other day I did even more heat and pressing (with a rounded hammer head face) against the screw hole depressions to further flatten them before making my mold.
Yup - mold. But we'll get to that. Back to the badging. Note the emblem has the words "Travel Queen" (manufacturer name, and the root of Lil' Queeny's personal name), and below that it says "Riverside, Calif." That's what we in the bidness call CA (California). Hey, those 60's were wild times out there. It's surprising it wasn't spelled something like Kalli-forny or some such.
But - apparently Travel Queen didn't build exclusively out of Riverside (funny - DW spent a few short years living in Riverside in her very young years). They apparently also had a factory in Nappanee, Indiana (as indicated through Interweb searches and on the last page of my Sales Brochure found SOMEWHERE in the early posts of this project. Maybe under Acquisition, Chapter 1).
So it's my guess the badging might say either Riverside, or Nappanee, under the words Travel Queen.
But what is the McKeesport, PA badge? I think it's a dealer location. Yeah I think the main badge is the manufacturer and the factory, and the separate addition below is the dealer added badge. Maybe. Here's the pic again, followed by pics while still on the camper.
So believe it or not, I think Lil' Queeny was originally built in CA (or Nappanee, IN, but with Riverside, CA badging), then delivered to a dealer and sold out of PA, and returned once again to the Best Coast, where we found her living in Oregon, and apparently for quite some time.
I've seen many Travel Queen Internet pictures with various dealer badging. Here's a pic of one of the cleanest units I've ever seen. And the badging is painted exactly how I'd like to do new ones on Queeny, with the beige, red and black. Note, this one must have been a Louisville, KY dealer.
Yeah - that day DSIL and I were discussing, I was kind of thinking of making some sort of wood badge (Teak? Waterproof? Because I'm a wood guy). He was thinking metal (because he's a metal guy). He was also thinking more custom/modern looking, with flames and jagged lettering, like lightning I think, because he's a Generation X'er, and they like that kind of stuff. I know - weird, but they have LOTS of weird ideas. Or maybe it's us? I don't know. :h
But I kind of wanted the same raised lettering, like you see in this picture.
Not only raised, but beveled. That would also assist the paint scheme desired. So because of that, and because I'm cheap, I bought materials to make my own.
Mold Making Stuff (left) and plastic material to pour INTO a mold (right). And a spray - for the mold - to allow the new unit to come out smoother.
That was about 300 years ago. I finally started working it the other day.
I started out by further flattening, like I said. Heat gun and pressing a hammer head into the back of the screw holes to re-shape their indented-ness closer into flat-ness. And a heated aluminum plate on top of a fully heated plastic badge on a heated bench. Then tire chains weight.
And that all did a real nice job. Next, proper surfaces, enter some old cookie sheets DW gave me years ago.
I put tape on the back to keep it from shifting.
And got my top pan ready.
Then opened up the stuff.
You mix equal parts and knead it into a consistency. You have 20 minutes of "workable" time. I grabbed the entire amounts from both containers...
And quickly "consisted" it.
Great exercise for the hands and fingers, like one of those biceps builder contraptions.
But by about 10 minutes in it was starting to set pretty quick, and became impossible to fully press around the letters. I had just SLIGHTLY too little. But I did the best I could, then left it alone and went out in the neighborhood to do some work for the association.
When I returned, I checked out my results.
Well THAT sucks!
:S
So I'm still thinking about what to do. I expect maybe a liquid pour-able stuff for making a mold. But I don't know what's available, or used, and I still haven't fully discounted metal or wood.
Today: Curtains, Bathroom Door Hold-Open, and Keys.
We've had the curtains done now for quite some time. Well - we still have to do the one for the entry door, maybe something in the bath, and still install the truck cab window cover, and a bit-o-stuff additionally, but other than that - they're done!
Here's the fabric we chose. Pine cones! You know - our little cabin in the woods thing.
And the liner fabric (supposed to be black-out, and it does a fair job at that) facing outward.
That's the back side of the curtain to cover this window.
We're thinking velcro tabs in the four corners.
And this window has no cover yet.
Hey! DW's busy! She's making a very time-consuming quilt with tiny pieces (you know - for scale), and being a GMA and stuff. She ain't laying around painting her nails, in other words!
So here's how they cover. And we found they blend in too well. After a shake down cruise, and we get familiar with their function, DW is thinking about adding a prairie-wheat trim band (like the camper interior trim pieces) around each curtain in a picture frame-like style, to set things off better, and to give a bit larger overall dimension, as my original numbers, read out to DW, may have been a bit too lesser.
Those up top on the slanted vee-nose? We're also thinking velcro tabs at their bottom corners, to secure them outside of the vertical hang.
And all pulled back.
The bathroom door swings nicely - too nicely. It needs a secure, in the open mode, back toward the entry door, but without banging and damaging any finished surfaces. So I tried several things that didn't work. I settled on this.
A simple J bolt from Tractor Supply, of a large enough diameter to prevent slop, and long enough to be effective, but short enough to fit.
At the ceiling high point, you can slip the bolt into the top of the door stiffener and rest it in normal mode like this.
Then in hold-open mode, you lift and hook it over the water pipe.
And from a distance.
Here the other day, I took out the access hatch locks and ran them over to the lock smith, where we got them all keyed the same. I had to buy two new tumblers in "short" to replace the un-keyable cheapos that came in the two water hatch doors.
Upon install I positioned each to turn the same way, and to be straight up and down in "unlock", sideways in "lock", so at a glance you can tell if a door is locked or not, and in the dark, or after a couple beers, you don't have to wonder "which way does this one turn". I like conformity on stuff like this.
These three...
And this one.
Bunch of pieces. I had to fine tune some of them to fit and work well after I got back home from the locksmith.
And finally, a set of keys (now consisting of only the house key, and the single access doors key) on my key ring, and this design set up for the "spare set".
I used a heavier chain link painted Orange for Tow-Mater's spare set. For Lil' Queeny, I gave her a little more subtlety in chain link sizing, and in finish - with a touch of silver, and a copper band! All her metal colors. She deserves it. ๐
We've had the curtains done now for quite some time. Well - we still have to do the one for the entry door, maybe something in the bath, and still install the truck cab window cover, and a bit-o-stuff additionally, but other than that - they're done!
Here's the fabric we chose. Pine cones! You know - our little cabin in the woods thing.
And the liner fabric (supposed to be black-out, and it does a fair job at that) facing outward.
That's the back side of the curtain to cover this window.
We're thinking velcro tabs in the four corners.
And this window has no cover yet.
Hey! DW's busy! She's making a very time-consuming quilt with tiny pieces (you know - for scale), and being a GMA and stuff. She ain't laying around painting her nails, in other words!
So here's how they cover. And we found they blend in too well. After a shake down cruise, and we get familiar with their function, DW is thinking about adding a prairie-wheat trim band (like the camper interior trim pieces) around each curtain in a picture frame-like style, to set things off better, and to give a bit larger overall dimension, as my original numbers, read out to DW, may have been a bit too lesser.
Those up top on the slanted vee-nose? We're also thinking velcro tabs at their bottom corners, to secure them outside of the vertical hang.
And all pulled back.
The bathroom door swings nicely - too nicely. It needs a secure, in the open mode, back toward the entry door, but without banging and damaging any finished surfaces. So I tried several things that didn't work. I settled on this.
A simple J bolt from Tractor Supply, of a large enough diameter to prevent slop, and long enough to be effective, but short enough to fit.
At the ceiling high point, you can slip the bolt into the top of the door stiffener and rest it in normal mode like this.
Then in hold-open mode, you lift and hook it over the water pipe.
And from a distance.
Here the other day, I took out the access hatch locks and ran them over to the lock smith, where we got them all keyed the same. I had to buy two new tumblers in "short" to replace the un-keyable cheapos that came in the two water hatch doors.
Upon install I positioned each to turn the same way, and to be straight up and down in "unlock", sideways in "lock", so at a glance you can tell if a door is locked or not, and in the dark, or after a couple beers, you don't have to wonder "which way does this one turn". I like conformity on stuff like this.
These three...
And this one.
Bunch of pieces. I had to fine tune some of them to fit and work well after I got back home from the locksmith.
And finally, a set of keys (now consisting of only the house key, and the single access doors key) on my key ring, and this design set up for the "spare set".
I used a heavier chain link painted Orange for Tow-Mater's spare set. For Lil' Queeny, I gave her a little more subtlety in chain link sizing, and in finish - with a touch of silver, and a copper band! All her metal colors. She deserves it. ๐
Today: Dust and Draft Seal for under-cushion wheel-well access doors, Coat Hooks at entry door, Flashlight Mount relocation, Galley and Greatroom Area Rugs.
We had to run into town yesterday morning. Errands. While out, we ate breakfast and discussed hand-held shower planning, and folding aluminum chairs. Conclusions are forming out of the chaotic space debris, circling around in the universe of our minds. That's the poetic way of saying, "this is too cheap, that is too costly, but such and such is just right!" More to come another day.
We also stopped by some second hand stores and home centers. Now that right there, that's a Country Music Album name!
Billy Buyright and the Buckhorns, with their new album - Second Hand Stores and Home Centers, including the new top 10 hit! - "Keep It Between the Lanes".
Seriously - while at the home center we found some close enough "look alike" coat hooks, small rugs that MATCHED to now discontinued "stair-runner" carpeting we used in Lil' Queeny, and weather stripping.
Let's start there. I guess the stuff on my shelf wasn't 1/2" after all. I think I used up that stuff on the fridge controls panel door. No - my stuff was 5/16 - Foam. I know, because I ran out of new stuff and pieced in some of the "on-my-shelf" stuff.
Duck Brand (on my shelf) from Walmart, MD from the home center.
The atmosphere at the home center was one of those times when they run you out of there. You know the kind, music too loud - speaker located right over the spot you're standing in the aisle while you're trying to think. I HATE that stuff. So you grab and go.
And today's Country ain't real Country. You can't compare the talent and style of the "whose gonna fill their shoes" Merle Haggards of yesteryear, to these sexy little cowboys strutting the stage these days with their Pop Music disguised as Country. Just like Disco pushed me out of Pop and Rock many years ago, Modern Country left me cold right after Randy Travis and Travis Tritt.
Yeah - give me Classic Rock, Classic Country and Western (gotta be careful with DW with that "Western" though), and Classic Al - as in Clasical. Yeah Classical is cool! My favs are the Beethoven Symphonies. He's called the "rocker" of his time you know. Mozart is fine, and even talented, but Beethoven beats him hands down! Try it if you think I'm joking. Generally, Movement 1 is the intro, Movement 2 is the quiet reflective part, Movement 3-4 then really get you going. You'll recognize Symphony 5 and 9 but 6 and 7 are my favorites. Cheap on iTunes and probably Amazon Music.
But anyway, not only was this Haggard "wanna-be" chirping out his - well - whatever he calls it - Country I guess - from the speaker right over my head in hardware, but it was LOUD enough so the workers at the far end of the store could hear it while they operated their Pneumatic hammer drills! Good Grief! Zip - we got out of there as fast as we could! Shopping Interrupted!
We got run out of one of the second hand stores too! Right after I discovered the folding chairs they had on hand, didn't fit my wants for our needs, their fire alarm went off. The sound was like that Dumb & Dumber "most annoying sound in the world", but times fifty, maybe times 1550 - something like that. Holy Mackerel Andy! Yeah, False Alarm, but they lost lots of shoppers that day.
But I digress. So in the sound profusion and confusion, I bought "sponge foam". Thicker, stiffer, not exactly what I was picturing, but I like it! Just couldn't think through the math and got too little.
1/4" Sponge (MD) on the right, 5/16" Foam (Duck) on the left.
One board, full sponge. The other, pieced in. I did the doors so I could more easily replace it in the future.
This should work just fine.
The surface is raised higher than I wanted, but too bad, so sad.
And the coat hooks? I thought they were they same, but (new in center) they're a bit different. The theme is the same, but even the slightly different look, old to new, can be thought of logically. One style for hats, the other for coats. You know - hoax hooks. If you tag on the word hoax, you can justify anything! And do it logically. If you have a compliant listener. You're compliant, right?
I filled the remaining two screw holes (from the flashlight mounts) with a bit-o-wood-fill wax-pencil. Wrong color, but it suffices.
And the flashlight couldn't go ANYWHERE! Everywhere we tried near the door - no go. No room, in the way. Lil' Queeny is getting filled up. But then I found this spot - still within reach from standing on the ground outside the door, but tucked away safely and securely...
In the crook of the bathroom/dinette seat corner. Door hatches still swing and remove. The head of the flashlight rests on the mount so it won't slide out.
Now the rugs. We kicked around several ideas, but when DW located the SAME pattern as the other carpeted areas, well it was all over but the finish work.
This stuff is meant to finish the ends of a rolled runner purchase, after they cut it from the roll to your length. We got one kit and used it on one rug (two ends). Now we have to buy another kit to finish the one remaining end (of the rug) used at the bunk step. In the meantime, I ran the propane torch quickly along the edge to burn the fray, like you do with a nylon rope end.
Adhesive. I could run a seam on the machine if it doesn't hold up.
Here it is on that left edge.
And on the right.
I did this rug full width so it wouldn't shift, and so it would appear more as a "front door rug" so to speak.
But like everything in this camper, it pulls double duty. In this case, as a bathroom rug; that dry, comfy spot you step out onto when you step out of the tub.
We'll probably need some sort of "rubber boot/shoe mat" on top of it, depending on travel season.
Then there's the main room rug. Not wall to wall carpeting, but cover over the hard wood floor, for foot comfort and warmth, and also floor protection in traffic pattern areas.
That's the full rug size 2' by 3'.
And then there's this end cut from the first 2 by 3 rug. This is the one with the edge that might get finished, or left alone. This is a "landing rug" at the base of the bunk step-up. Like you might find at the bottom of your stairway.
And all together from the front door.
And the look from the bunk.
First trip: Area 51! Are you shifting me?
We had to run into town yesterday morning. Errands. While out, we ate breakfast and discussed hand-held shower planning, and folding aluminum chairs. Conclusions are forming out of the chaotic space debris, circling around in the universe of our minds. That's the poetic way of saying, "this is too cheap, that is too costly, but such and such is just right!" More to come another day.
We also stopped by some second hand stores and home centers. Now that right there, that's a Country Music Album name!
Billy Buyright and the Buckhorns, with their new album - Second Hand Stores and Home Centers, including the new top 10 hit! - "Keep It Between the Lanes".
Seriously - while at the home center we found some close enough "look alike" coat hooks, small rugs that MATCHED to now discontinued "stair-runner" carpeting we used in Lil' Queeny, and weather stripping.
Let's start there. I guess the stuff on my shelf wasn't 1/2" after all. I think I used up that stuff on the fridge controls panel door. No - my stuff was 5/16 - Foam. I know, because I ran out of new stuff and pieced in some of the "on-my-shelf" stuff.
Duck Brand (on my shelf) from Walmart, MD from the home center.
The atmosphere at the home center was one of those times when they run you out of there. You know the kind, music too loud - speaker located right over the spot you're standing in the aisle while you're trying to think. I HATE that stuff. So you grab and go.
And today's Country ain't real Country. You can't compare the talent and style of the "whose gonna fill their shoes" Merle Haggards of yesteryear, to these sexy little cowboys strutting the stage these days with their Pop Music disguised as Country. Just like Disco pushed me out of Pop and Rock many years ago, Modern Country left me cold right after Randy Travis and Travis Tritt.
Yeah - give me Classic Rock, Classic Country and Western (gotta be careful with DW with that "Western" though), and Classic Al - as in Clasical. Yeah Classical is cool! My favs are the Beethoven Symphonies. He's called the "rocker" of his time you know. Mozart is fine, and even talented, but Beethoven beats him hands down! Try it if you think I'm joking. Generally, Movement 1 is the intro, Movement 2 is the quiet reflective part, Movement 3-4 then really get you going. You'll recognize Symphony 5 and 9 but 6 and 7 are my favorites. Cheap on iTunes and probably Amazon Music.
But anyway, not only was this Haggard "wanna-be" chirping out his - well - whatever he calls it - Country I guess - from the speaker right over my head in hardware, but it was LOUD enough so the workers at the far end of the store could hear it while they operated their Pneumatic hammer drills! Good Grief! Zip - we got out of there as fast as we could! Shopping Interrupted!
We got run out of one of the second hand stores too! Right after I discovered the folding chairs they had on hand, didn't fit my wants for our needs, their fire alarm went off. The sound was like that Dumb & Dumber "most annoying sound in the world", but times fifty, maybe times 1550 - something like that. Holy Mackerel Andy! Yeah, False Alarm, but they lost lots of shoppers that day.
But I digress. So in the sound profusion and confusion, I bought "sponge foam". Thicker, stiffer, not exactly what I was picturing, but I like it! Just couldn't think through the math and got too little.
1/4" Sponge (MD) on the right, 5/16" Foam (Duck) on the left.
One board, full sponge. The other, pieced in. I did the doors so I could more easily replace it in the future.
This should work just fine.
The surface is raised higher than I wanted, but too bad, so sad.
And the coat hooks? I thought they were they same, but (new in center) they're a bit different. The theme is the same, but even the slightly different look, old to new, can be thought of logically. One style for hats, the other for coats. You know - hoax hooks. If you tag on the word hoax, you can justify anything! And do it logically. If you have a compliant listener. You're compliant, right?
I filled the remaining two screw holes (from the flashlight mounts) with a bit-o-wood-fill wax-pencil. Wrong color, but it suffices.
And the flashlight couldn't go ANYWHERE! Everywhere we tried near the door - no go. No room, in the way. Lil' Queeny is getting filled up. But then I found this spot - still within reach from standing on the ground outside the door, but tucked away safely and securely...
In the crook of the bathroom/dinette seat corner. Door hatches still swing and remove. The head of the flashlight rests on the mount so it won't slide out.
Now the rugs. We kicked around several ideas, but when DW located the SAME pattern as the other carpeted areas, well it was all over but the finish work.
This stuff is meant to finish the ends of a rolled runner purchase, after they cut it from the roll to your length. We got one kit and used it on one rug (two ends). Now we have to buy another kit to finish the one remaining end (of the rug) used at the bunk step. In the meantime, I ran the propane torch quickly along the edge to burn the fray, like you do with a nylon rope end.
Adhesive. I could run a seam on the machine if it doesn't hold up.
Here it is on that left edge.
And on the right.
I did this rug full width so it wouldn't shift, and so it would appear more as a "front door rug" so to speak.
But like everything in this camper, it pulls double duty. In this case, as a bathroom rug; that dry, comfy spot you step out onto when you step out of the tub.
We'll probably need some sort of "rubber boot/shoe mat" on top of it, depending on travel season.
Then there's the main room rug. Not wall to wall carpeting, but cover over the hard wood floor, for foot comfort and warmth, and also floor protection in traffic pattern areas.
That's the full rug size 2' by 3'.
And then there's this end cut from the first 2 by 3 rug. This is the one with the edge that might get finished, or left alone. This is a "landing rug" at the base of the bunk step-up. Like you might find at the bottom of your stairway.
And all together from the front door.
And the look from the bunk.
First trip: Area 51! Are you shifting me?
Today: Grey Water Drain Change, Hookups and Outside Storage Solutions, Jacks attached, Shower Mat, Dinette Window Repair.
Back ago, like in 2015, I was working on Grey Water (which Chapter is now closed) and had devised this drain method. Screw it onto the straight shot out of the gate valve, connect a garden hose, and drain away!
What I didn't like about that, was the need to have the access door open when hooked up to dump. (My gate valve handle is available for "pull" from inside the camper.)
Let's say you're parked at a "hook-ups" spot in winter for several days in a row. The 21 gallon grey tank is filled (from all that nice, hot shower water you've been luxuriating in for a couple days. You find you need to dump.
So you look out the window and the wind is blowing, and the snow is falling horizontal. You're still only on your second cup of coffee, in sock feet, and still in your "comfies". Who wants to go outside and hook-up the "open access door dump setup"? Not me! No Sir.
Why did I set it up like that? Because I'm too cheap to cut a hundred foot rope. Some of you may remember that story I told about my Dad somewhere back in these chapters. Good luck to you - I can't find it.
But I didn't want to cut down into the floor through a east/west 2x2 framing member in the floor so I set up the "open door" policy.
Lately, I wasn't feeling it. I was coming around to the idea of drilling a hole through the floor - and the framing member. I figured with the plywood top and bottom, and the rest of the strong, secure built floor structure, I'd be just fine. So I made careful measurements, and drilled away! (I had much previously, already built the plumbing part.)
Off came the old way, in go the new parts.
Note the wood is not finished. I think I'll remove the gate valve fasteners, lift the assembly back out, and smear some exterior caulking around on the bare wood surfaces for sealing out the elements and insects, much like I did around the range vent, and the battery floor drain hole.
I think I'll leave the top of the floor unsealed around the pipe, so that any water leaks in here, can drain to the outside.
From underneath, the garden hose attachment is flush with or sunken into, the structure. I'll probably cap it. This area of the camper lives right above the truck bumper and leaves about 8-9 inches between the two. Here you can hook up a hose, run it along the top of the bumper over to the sewage hook-up - then dump any time you need. And the access door can remain closed, offering not only a clean look, but the temperature controlled (heated) basement.
So that's the grey water dumping.
The black water dumping is simply carrying the bottom half (up to five gallons) of the toilet over to a suitable dump spot (outhouse, camp or rest stop bathroom, maybe a sewage hose setup I'll build and store between the camper and the truck rear bumper in a hose tube). Yeah, need to get dressed for that one.
The other hookups are all right here: water (gravity fill and city water) and electric.
But how to store the hose and cord? Oh man, that cord is heavy and bulky. Overkill normally, but quite capable for "when needed". I finally found a nice spot for storage. Now I had tried it here before, but I couldn't get the coiled cord through the small entrance into the 3-4" wide, but quite tall and deep storage location.
So how did I? One coil at a time. Remember before nasty thieves started stealing cords from campers? They had those nifty storage areas where you could push the cord back into the RV and close a little hatch? That's how I stuffed this storage spot. Very effective!
Then in front of that goes the water hose.
And that canvas bag below and to the right? Camp Hookup odds and ends. I had to remove the axe and shovel from here to make it all fit.
Where did those go?
Back here, to the right side of the tank. Folding shovel, 3/4 axe, and a hammer.
And the grey water drain hose on top. In the bags, the shower kit bag holds a small tool kit, and the larger bag holds an extra (always on board) cordless drill with battery. An extra battery, and the charger, live in the electrical cabinet below the dinette seat where it stays plugged in and charging. I'm not sure I'd live long without my cordless drill nearby. Call it my security blanket.
And all stowed.
Note the temperature sensor for the heated basement was moved to the left, so it's out of the way of storage.
I cut and miss-cut two extra shower mats we had on hand, and fitted them together. This will allow a "bit-o-warmth" for bare feet in here, as well as an assistance for keeping the toilet from sliding around while underway.
One evening, at just a bit past beer-thirty, I discovered a faulty window crank component on MY side of the dinette window. And the screen had also been pushing out of the spline channel. What the?
So yesterday I took it apart and replaced the stripped gear box with one of my extras. Also discovered the screen spline was too thin of a diameter, so re-screened the dinette windows with a better spline. Back in business.
I also got my set of Reico-titans installed.
One of the next steps is to get this camper back outside and on the truck (then the jacks will come back off). Once on the truck we can get this baby over to the scale and see the damage! At that point I'll be determining truck capability needs.
When I ordered my 3/4 ton pickup, I got the towing package, which option, I believe it was, that provided the larger of two rear-ends available for the truck. I also ordered cab lights (because I like cab-lights). So the truck is in essence, already a non-dually one ton - minus the springs. So I may have a spring shop work it, or aftermarket stuff. But first we have to see what she weighs. More to come on this subject, so stayed tuned.
And as Grandpa said to Little Tree, "She's Coming Alive Little Tree, she's coming alive".
(One of the best reads you'll ever have - should you choose to accept the mission.)
Back ago, like in 2015, I was working on Grey Water (which Chapter is now closed) and had devised this drain method. Screw it onto the straight shot out of the gate valve, connect a garden hose, and drain away!
What I didn't like about that, was the need to have the access door open when hooked up to dump. (My gate valve handle is available for "pull" from inside the camper.)
Let's say you're parked at a "hook-ups" spot in winter for several days in a row. The 21 gallon grey tank is filled (from all that nice, hot shower water you've been luxuriating in for a couple days. You find you need to dump.
So you look out the window and the wind is blowing, and the snow is falling horizontal. You're still only on your second cup of coffee, in sock feet, and still in your "comfies". Who wants to go outside and hook-up the "open access door dump setup"? Not me! No Sir.
Why did I set it up like that? Because I'm too cheap to cut a hundred foot rope. Some of you may remember that story I told about my Dad somewhere back in these chapters. Good luck to you - I can't find it.
But I didn't want to cut down into the floor through a east/west 2x2 framing member in the floor so I set up the "open door" policy.
Lately, I wasn't feeling it. I was coming around to the idea of drilling a hole through the floor - and the framing member. I figured with the plywood top and bottom, and the rest of the strong, secure built floor structure, I'd be just fine. So I made careful measurements, and drilled away! (I had much previously, already built the plumbing part.)
Off came the old way, in go the new parts.
Note the wood is not finished. I think I'll remove the gate valve fasteners, lift the assembly back out, and smear some exterior caulking around on the bare wood surfaces for sealing out the elements and insects, much like I did around the range vent, and the battery floor drain hole.
I think I'll leave the top of the floor unsealed around the pipe, so that any water leaks in here, can drain to the outside.
From underneath, the garden hose attachment is flush with or sunken into, the structure. I'll probably cap it. This area of the camper lives right above the truck bumper and leaves about 8-9 inches between the two. Here you can hook up a hose, run it along the top of the bumper over to the sewage hook-up - then dump any time you need. And the access door can remain closed, offering not only a clean look, but the temperature controlled (heated) basement.
So that's the grey water dumping.
The black water dumping is simply carrying the bottom half (up to five gallons) of the toilet over to a suitable dump spot (outhouse, camp or rest stop bathroom, maybe a sewage hose setup I'll build and store between the camper and the truck rear bumper in a hose tube). Yeah, need to get dressed for that one.
The other hookups are all right here: water (gravity fill and city water) and electric.
But how to store the hose and cord? Oh man, that cord is heavy and bulky. Overkill normally, but quite capable for "when needed". I finally found a nice spot for storage. Now I had tried it here before, but I couldn't get the coiled cord through the small entrance into the 3-4" wide, but quite tall and deep storage location.
So how did I? One coil at a time. Remember before nasty thieves started stealing cords from campers? They had those nifty storage areas where you could push the cord back into the RV and close a little hatch? That's how I stuffed this storage spot. Very effective!
Then in front of that goes the water hose.
And that canvas bag below and to the right? Camp Hookup odds and ends. I had to remove the axe and shovel from here to make it all fit.
Where did those go?
Back here, to the right side of the tank. Folding shovel, 3/4 axe, and a hammer.
And the grey water drain hose on top. In the bags, the shower kit bag holds a small tool kit, and the larger bag holds an extra (always on board) cordless drill with battery. An extra battery, and the charger, live in the electrical cabinet below the dinette seat where it stays plugged in and charging. I'm not sure I'd live long without my cordless drill nearby. Call it my security blanket.
And all stowed.
Note the temperature sensor for the heated basement was moved to the left, so it's out of the way of storage.
I cut and miss-cut two extra shower mats we had on hand, and fitted them together. This will allow a "bit-o-warmth" for bare feet in here, as well as an assistance for keeping the toilet from sliding around while underway.
One evening, at just a bit past beer-thirty, I discovered a faulty window crank component on MY side of the dinette window. And the screen had also been pushing out of the spline channel. What the?
So yesterday I took it apart and replaced the stripped gear box with one of my extras. Also discovered the screen spline was too thin of a diameter, so re-screened the dinette windows with a better spline. Back in business.
I also got my set of Reico-titans installed.
One of the next steps is to get this camper back outside and on the truck (then the jacks will come back off). Once on the truck we can get this baby over to the scale and see the damage! At that point I'll be determining truck capability needs.
When I ordered my 3/4 ton pickup, I got the towing package, which option, I believe it was, that provided the larger of two rear-ends available for the truck. I also ordered cab lights (because I like cab-lights). So the truck is in essence, already a non-dually one ton - minus the springs. So I may have a spring shop work it, or aftermarket stuff. But first we have to see what she weighs. More to come on this subject, so stayed tuned.
And as Grandpa said to Little Tree, "She's Coming Alive Little Tree, she's coming alive".
(One of the best reads you'll ever have - should you choose to accept the mission.)
Today: Bathroom finishes, Bedding Introduction, Wheel Well Storage Access.
If you're paying any attention at all to the chapter names and categories, you'll find today we are in Chapter 7. Finishes and Finishing.
Right at the very beginning, I defined this chapter as a place to provide explanation for the various finishes we've chosen - whether a paint color, or a material used, such as the glass tile stove surround. But I also said, it would be at the end of this chapter where I would report on various odds and ends of the build, as we finished them.
That's where we're at now.
-Bathroom-
I already reported the bathroom build in its own chapter, and theoretically - that's done. There are some finishing touches to do in the bathroom, so I may report on them there, or in here, but at least for today, here's a bit of explanation for the finishes we used there...
The bathroom walls began with sturdy wood structural build, then on the camper back wall, some framing for a 3/4" cavity of foam board insulation, but over all that, we used that home-center, very thin and flexible, plastic 4 by 8 sheets of surfacing stuff.
Plas-Tex
For corner sealing, we used acrylic (no silicon added) white exterior home caulking. Additional metal finishes are everything from Brass and Chrome fixtures to Aluminum banding to Zinc plated fasteners.
We're still considering the possibility of Gold-plating the Porti-Potti toilet seat (as a modification) - if our tax refund is big enough - I hear it's coming from China in the form of "free money". Yeah! I wanna get me some of that "Chump Change".
-Bedding-
Now this could go in the "Night-Chamber" chapter, but we'll just put it here. This is a bedding introduction.
It's hard enough to climb up in a cab-over bunk. It's another thing to try and "make a bed" up there. You use one hand to lift the mattress corner, another hand to brace yourself, and your third hand to tuck the bedding around the mattress. They called me old "tripod arms" in my younger years, but lately I've been having some bursitis in my middle shoulder.
So DW's solution is to modify some sheets, and make quilts or blankets that require much less tucking, and provide for much more fastening in new and improved ways. She envisions some "buttoning" methods to hold top bedding to the lower foot areas. We'll report on this as she works it.
The odd sized mattress (in essence, a "long-boy double" - meaning the bed is king or queen length, and a double or "full" width, and only 5 inches deep), requires homemade modifications. Which she is doing with some flannel sheets and stuff. The camper mattress now resides on the guest bedroom bed - making it a "work area" across the hall from DW's sewing room.
See DW is a quilt maker. No - not one of these "I'll enter a program into my machine" quilters. Rather, she pieces. And she has done some beautiful work! Check out this quilt she made my Mother 10 years ago, which Mom proudly uses for half the year in her assisted living home apartment
The objects are all "pieced fabric".
"Grandma's Garden" (referring to mom's children and grandchildren and greats, etc.) That's a picket fence (mom's childhood home) and the Utah beehive (Mom is a Utah Mormon). Not sure if you can see close enough, but there's even a bunch of tiny bees DW cut out (the size of a dime), attached and then fashioned a bee's flight path behind each in loops and circles with a threaded stitch! DW is amazing in many ways, not the least of which is her fabric creativity.
I could make several posts just about her creations. But guess what! She's making a special Lil' Queeny quilt. ๐
Here are some pictures of the early stages.
So stay tuned!
-Wheel Well Storage-
Now I don't know if we ever said this before, but Lil' Queeny is tiny. A tiny home even-en. And storage is always at a premium in a tiny home. It makes you look at those un-accessed wheel wells with longing. So I got me this idea, see?
There's already a small access door to the left, front access, which could also access the left side area above the wheel well. (The rear of the wheel wells on both sides are already pretty full with "camper".
But there's a huge area of wheel well storage on the right side, both above and in front of the well. And EVEN some space BEHIND the well, if you can access it. Which we couldn't. At least not from an access door on the camper box, like you will most often find.
Enter - the wing under the dinette cushion. Not the EASIEST area to access, but once accessed, it is HUGE! The only thing in the way is the "metal under-grid jack and tie-down assembly", (I don't know what else to call it).
I measured around it, and factored in the truck dimensions and stuff, and carefully penciled a template on the wing top surface. Then I used a scratch awl to mark the rectangles more visibly, while rounding the corners with a small round something-or-other.
I didn't get a picture.
Then, because I was re-using the removed board as the door, I jabbed my oscillating tool into the cut line (instead of my normal method of drilling a hole to drop a saber-saw blade into). Here it is under way.
And then cut out - before cleanup.
Then I made cleats out of 1x2's (3/4" by 1.5") to line the openings from underneath. I screwed from above and thru the 1/2" plywood down into the 3/4" thickness of the cleats. Four shorts, and four longs. Primed and then painted the OD green found elsewhere on Lil' Queeny's under-areas.
Note the board edges, and the cleats, done.
Also note the door handles. Flat, soft, made from one of my old belts. Also, non-grabby screw heads - so the carpeted cushion bases don't snag.
Same edge treatment on the openings. Note the screws backed out in certain locations, the result of designing while building.
Now with all the screws and cleats in place.
From underneath. I think this looks "factory original" don't you?
Now tell me this doesn't look "gypsy wagon-like"!
Our target was a sort of combo between "that cabin in the woods - but on wheels", and a little "gypsy-wagon" - goes by the name 'o Queeny.
I'll buy some thin, stick-on foam weather stripping for the edge seal (dust and drafts). All I have on the shelf is 1/2", and that's just too thick.
Now when you pull into the store parking lot to "re-stock supplies" (beer, water jugs, canned goods, etc.) or for storing bulky stuff like fishing rod tubes, tackle boxes, etc., you can remove the table and the center cushion, then semi-access by slightly lifting the other cushion edges to remove the door panels. Slick!
And with the cushions back in place, you'd never know. ๐
Adding access to THAT much storage, in a unit like this, is greatly liberating! We envision large thick "yard-waste" bags with cinch ties. That'll keep things mostly dry and dust free, when needed.
If you're paying any attention at all to the chapter names and categories, you'll find today we are in Chapter 7. Finishes and Finishing.
Right at the very beginning, I defined this chapter as a place to provide explanation for the various finishes we've chosen - whether a paint color, or a material used, such as the glass tile stove surround. But I also said, it would be at the end of this chapter where I would report on various odds and ends of the build, as we finished them.
That's where we're at now.
-Bathroom-
I already reported the bathroom build in its own chapter, and theoretically - that's done. There are some finishing touches to do in the bathroom, so I may report on them there, or in here, but at least for today, here's a bit of explanation for the finishes we used there...
The bathroom walls began with sturdy wood structural build, then on the camper back wall, some framing for a 3/4" cavity of foam board insulation, but over all that, we used that home-center, very thin and flexible, plastic 4 by 8 sheets of surfacing stuff.
Plas-Tex
For corner sealing, we used acrylic (no silicon added) white exterior home caulking. Additional metal finishes are everything from Brass and Chrome fixtures to Aluminum banding to Zinc plated fasteners.
We're still considering the possibility of Gold-plating the Porti-Potti toilet seat (as a modification) - if our tax refund is big enough - I hear it's coming from China in the form of "free money". Yeah! I wanna get me some of that "Chump Change".
-Bedding-
Now this could go in the "Night-Chamber" chapter, but we'll just put it here. This is a bedding introduction.
It's hard enough to climb up in a cab-over bunk. It's another thing to try and "make a bed" up there. You use one hand to lift the mattress corner, another hand to brace yourself, and your third hand to tuck the bedding around the mattress. They called me old "tripod arms" in my younger years, but lately I've been having some bursitis in my middle shoulder.
So DW's solution is to modify some sheets, and make quilts or blankets that require much less tucking, and provide for much more fastening in new and improved ways. She envisions some "buttoning" methods to hold top bedding to the lower foot areas. We'll report on this as she works it.
The odd sized mattress (in essence, a "long-boy double" - meaning the bed is king or queen length, and a double or "full" width, and only 5 inches deep), requires homemade modifications. Which she is doing with some flannel sheets and stuff. The camper mattress now resides on the guest bedroom bed - making it a "work area" across the hall from DW's sewing room.
See DW is a quilt maker. No - not one of these "I'll enter a program into my machine" quilters. Rather, she pieces. And she has done some beautiful work! Check out this quilt she made my Mother 10 years ago, which Mom proudly uses for half the year in her assisted living home apartment
The objects are all "pieced fabric".
"Grandma's Garden" (referring to mom's children and grandchildren and greats, etc.) That's a picket fence (mom's childhood home) and the Utah beehive (Mom is a Utah Mormon). Not sure if you can see close enough, but there's even a bunch of tiny bees DW cut out (the size of a dime), attached and then fashioned a bee's flight path behind each in loops and circles with a threaded stitch! DW is amazing in many ways, not the least of which is her fabric creativity.
I could make several posts just about her creations. But guess what! She's making a special Lil' Queeny quilt. ๐
Here are some pictures of the early stages.
So stay tuned!
-Wheel Well Storage-
Now I don't know if we ever said this before, but Lil' Queeny is tiny. A tiny home even-en. And storage is always at a premium in a tiny home. It makes you look at those un-accessed wheel wells with longing. So I got me this idea, see?
There's already a small access door to the left, front access, which could also access the left side area above the wheel well. (The rear of the wheel wells on both sides are already pretty full with "camper".
But there's a huge area of wheel well storage on the right side, both above and in front of the well. And EVEN some space BEHIND the well, if you can access it. Which we couldn't. At least not from an access door on the camper box, like you will most often find.
Enter - the wing under the dinette cushion. Not the EASIEST area to access, but once accessed, it is HUGE! The only thing in the way is the "metal under-grid jack and tie-down assembly", (I don't know what else to call it).
I measured around it, and factored in the truck dimensions and stuff, and carefully penciled a template on the wing top surface. Then I used a scratch awl to mark the rectangles more visibly, while rounding the corners with a small round something-or-other.
I didn't get a picture.
Then, because I was re-using the removed board as the door, I jabbed my oscillating tool into the cut line (instead of my normal method of drilling a hole to drop a saber-saw blade into). Here it is under way.
And then cut out - before cleanup.
Then I made cleats out of 1x2's (3/4" by 1.5") to line the openings from underneath. I screwed from above and thru the 1/2" plywood down into the 3/4" thickness of the cleats. Four shorts, and four longs. Primed and then painted the OD green found elsewhere on Lil' Queeny's under-areas.
Note the board edges, and the cleats, done.
Also note the door handles. Flat, soft, made from one of my old belts. Also, non-grabby screw heads - so the carpeted cushion bases don't snag.
Same edge treatment on the openings. Note the screws backed out in certain locations, the result of designing while building.
Now with all the screws and cleats in place.
From underneath. I think this looks "factory original" don't you?
Now tell me this doesn't look "gypsy wagon-like"!
Our target was a sort of combo between "that cabin in the woods - but on wheels", and a little "gypsy-wagon" - goes by the name 'o Queeny.
I'll buy some thin, stick-on foam weather stripping for the edge seal (dust and drafts). All I have on the shelf is 1/2", and that's just too thick.
Now when you pull into the store parking lot to "re-stock supplies" (beer, water jugs, canned goods, etc.) or for storing bulky stuff like fishing rod tubes, tackle boxes, etc., you can remove the table and the center cushion, then semi-access by slightly lifting the other cushion edges to remove the door panels. Slick!
And with the cushions back in place, you'd never know. ๐
Adding access to THAT much storage, in a unit like this, is greatly liberating! We envision large thick "yard-waste" bags with cinch ties. That'll keep things mostly dry and dust free, when needed.
Today: Relocating the original magazine rack - again. Well - since the first time "installed" at head height, but check out the first time "planned" down lower.
Scroll down to the magazine rack picture, begin reading paras above it..
And then there were none. None more things to report on. The jobs were complete. NO! - not on the camper! Heavens no, just the stuff done to this point - before the medical procedure.
'Cause now I have to pass the health milestone thing and blah, blah, blah, before getting back onto things - but we're getting plans!
Watching sewing videos. See - we have the fabric, the cushions, the poly wrap (basically quilt batts in varied form), thread, tools. Couldn't find fabric in the gimp color we want - piping, but may then order it already made - not too bad, economically acceptable. So moving along in the head regarding upholstery!
And there's the whole Bathroom thing. Head progress there too! No pun intended, but on second read, I kinda laughed!
Back to today. The magazine rack. In all the hanging out in Lil' Queeny, the thousands of miles already traveled, we've come to live in her. Beer-thirty is a common one. So you get familiar with someone, something. Right?
That's the "lived-in" feel. You get it with things, people, time - every forth of July the community does "that thing". One example. And there's that one hand tool, that just feels "that way" in your hand. Your partner - if you're fortunate enough to have a respectful, healthy partnership, which are simply cultivated BTW. Time with the land is proving more desirable than just another fertilizer or terrorizer, again!
But we have that - so very - important step, already begun with Queeny. The lived-in feel.
So we were out there a while ago - beer-thirty - and getting comfortable at the dinette. We had originally placed the magazine rack in a spot we thought was "out of the way" - at head level in the u-shape corner, under the wall cabinet - her side.
Because if we were in "cards playing mode" it would be off to the side - but in our increasingly frequent "lounge mode", WE'D be off to the side.
DW's side. Not mine -- I'm safe, because I park first, while she finishes up things, which I'll call her "pre-lounge mode", and I always sit, which I'll call MY "pre-lounge mode", where I can see both her and the TV, not to mention the exit.
But like I said before, she's the Domestic Goddess, not me. She runs her "area" quite fine without me in the way, so I park it. And that's not based on gender privilege, it's recognition of balancing life in a partnership. There are times when she's parked, and I'm doing chores. Balance.
So we had to move the magazine rack. I mean, I read her body language in "lounge mode", and could tell she wasn't fully comfortable, so I brought up the idea of moving it. Here's what we determined together, AFTER that.
Here's where it started. Took that off the wall. Mounted with four screws. I know. Ouch! And that's what she says. But you have to be willing to improve.
Here's where it ended up. Mounted while considering kitchen style toe-kick availability and shin or visual balance of the taper from heater on the right, to "broom-closet" on the left.
Arrived at easy level, and use of third hand, with these spacers during install.
We like the found space. Both functionally, and visually. Easy spot for storage of those travel brochures you always have to put somewhere! Grab and use from the dinette. Easy Peasy. Then easily stowed at meal time. Retention/insertion of vintage character.
And fixing the previous wall wood damage (holes)? They'll be incorporated into a "wall-mounted head pillow", as we do work on upholstery, coming soon to a Galley & Greatroom chapter, near you.
And now we can keep DW most comfortable during "lounge mode". That's when her smile's the best - "most comfortable". Oh sure, window crank handles too. ๐
Scroll down to the magazine rack picture, begin reading paras above it..
And then there were none. None more things to report on. The jobs were complete. NO! - not on the camper! Heavens no, just the stuff done to this point - before the medical procedure.
'Cause now I have to pass the health milestone thing and blah, blah, blah, before getting back onto things - but we're getting plans!
Watching sewing videos. See - we have the fabric, the cushions, the poly wrap (basically quilt batts in varied form), thread, tools. Couldn't find fabric in the gimp color we want - piping, but may then order it already made - not too bad, economically acceptable. So moving along in the head regarding upholstery!
And there's the whole Bathroom thing. Head progress there too! No pun intended, but on second read, I kinda laughed!
Back to today. The magazine rack. In all the hanging out in Lil' Queeny, the thousands of miles already traveled, we've come to live in her. Beer-thirty is a common one. So you get familiar with someone, something. Right?
That's the "lived-in" feel. You get it with things, people, time - every forth of July the community does "that thing". One example. And there's that one hand tool, that just feels "that way" in your hand. Your partner - if you're fortunate enough to have a respectful, healthy partnership, which are simply cultivated BTW. Time with the land is proving more desirable than just another fertilizer or terrorizer, again!
But we have that - so very - important step, already begun with Queeny. The lived-in feel.
So we were out there a while ago - beer-thirty - and getting comfortable at the dinette. We had originally placed the magazine rack in a spot we thought was "out of the way" - at head level in the u-shape corner, under the wall cabinet - her side.
Because if we were in "cards playing mode" it would be off to the side - but in our increasingly frequent "lounge mode", WE'D be off to the side.
DW's side. Not mine -- I'm safe, because I park first, while she finishes up things, which I'll call her "pre-lounge mode", and I always sit, which I'll call MY "pre-lounge mode", where I can see both her and the TV, not to mention the exit.
But like I said before, she's the Domestic Goddess, not me. She runs her "area" quite fine without me in the way, so I park it. And that's not based on gender privilege, it's recognition of balancing life in a partnership. There are times when she's parked, and I'm doing chores. Balance.
So we had to move the magazine rack. I mean, I read her body language in "lounge mode", and could tell she wasn't fully comfortable, so I brought up the idea of moving it. Here's what we determined together, AFTER that.
Here's where it started. Took that off the wall. Mounted with four screws. I know. Ouch! And that's what she says. But you have to be willing to improve.
Here's where it ended up. Mounted while considering kitchen style toe-kick availability and shin or visual balance of the taper from heater on the right, to "broom-closet" on the left.
Arrived at easy level, and use of third hand, with these spacers during install.
We like the found space. Both functionally, and visually. Easy spot for storage of those travel brochures you always have to put somewhere! Grab and use from the dinette. Easy Peasy. Then easily stowed at meal time. Retention/insertion of vintage character.
And fixing the previous wall wood damage (holes)? They'll be incorporated into a "wall-mounted head pillow", as we do work on upholstery, coming soon to a Galley & Greatroom chapter, near you.
And now we can keep DW most comfortable during "lounge mode". That's when her smile's the best - "most comfortable". Oh sure, window crank handles too. ๐
Today: Some finishing odds and ends - Range top cover installation, fridge "in-storage mode", inside cabinet containers, vintage period cold water jug.
Do you remember this?
A range top cover from our parts Travel Queen camper, that was in pretty ugly condition, but otherwise functional. We painted it with some of our high-heat copper paint and planned to surface it with some "things" to prevent scratching.
After several false starts using varied ideas for those "things", we decided to leave "additional things" off (too bulky and visually distracting), and just put on a couple coats of "clear coat". Spray poly in a can - in essence. So we'll see how it holds up.
DW likes the "cover option", whereas I just like the look of a stove top. But she's the domestic Goddess, and it is she who understands the "needs of the galley" better than I. We seem to advance well through life when we support one another's strengths, so that's what we pursue. No need for ego and self-righteousness in OUR relationship.
She foresees soft prep surface for the unit.
Installation was a simple two screw deal at the back.
I've never liked rattles in a camper, of various metal on metal things. It seems campers can be just full of such noise, especially if you are ever "sent to your room" for part of the drive. So I looked over the cover and "got's this idea, see?"
Poly tubing for Lil' Queeny's curtain install (coming in the future). It will be used similarly to the black stuff used on Tow-Mater.
I cut six short segments off, and cut a lengthwise split into each with a utility knife. Then slid those over these areas.
Hinge area that sits on the stove edge high spot. This may change to just one tubing piece per side.
And resting on the chrome band at front, the cover's front edge - one per side.
That prevented metal on metal, and they seem to hold okay - so far. We'll see what happens on that.
In storage, fridge air gets stale and stinky. Modern units have built-in solutions. Our fridge did not. I bought the little black plastic inserts from a small parts bin at the home center way back ago. When I went looking again - Twilight Zone City. No where to be found. Maybe it never happened. So instead of THAT plan, I just drilled a smaller hole. Like this.
And in storage mode.
Awhile back, we bought DW's dream fridge for the house - french door, bottom freezer. It was a Kenmore - our long-held "go to" for durable goods appliances. Sure enough, it failed one month past warranty. It was only then, that we learned they used "low quality solder", questionable construction quality assurance processes - not to mention "low wage labor locations" so the Sears owner (CEO guy) could continue his selfish, non-regulated, "self-made man" fantasy and misguided reasons for existence, and such cheapo circuit board quality that you can't even get a non-Sears local service man willing to screw you even worse by fixing any of it!
We did a temporary "add freon" fix method, which just prolonged our misery for another year, and learned that appliance quality these days is ALL about the warranty period, and has NOTHING to do with historical reputation.
One year = Kenmore, Samsung, LG, etc.
Ten year = Kitchen Aide, I think Whirlpool, a few others.
We replaced with a purchase from a long term local (non-big box store) business (who we always assumed would be too expensive), and bought a Kitchen Aide - same style, for the same price!
Hey! It's partly our own faults folks. We want cheapest (often assumed by purchase point), and we're too busy forwarding FaceBook propaganda and fighting among ourselves, to take the actual time needed to read warranties and Insurance policy coverages.
Instead of putting it all right into the landfill, we stored it in the yard (salvage plans for parts). The internal plastic bins may work for small compartment organization in Lil' Queeny.
We found this cool vintage water cooler jug at a second hand store. You know for drinking water back and forth from truck-cab to camper. But - in camper, it uses more surface space than other methods might (like our gallon jug method we've used forever).
The jury is still out. I like it better than DW does. It'll find a home somewhere, if not in Lil' Queeny, perhaps in Tow-Mater. Or maybe in "The Po' Boys!
Do you remember this?
A range top cover from our parts Travel Queen camper, that was in pretty ugly condition, but otherwise functional. We painted it with some of our high-heat copper paint and planned to surface it with some "things" to prevent scratching.
After several false starts using varied ideas for those "things", we decided to leave "additional things" off (too bulky and visually distracting), and just put on a couple coats of "clear coat". Spray poly in a can - in essence. So we'll see how it holds up.
DW likes the "cover option", whereas I just like the look of a stove top. But she's the domestic Goddess, and it is she who understands the "needs of the galley" better than I. We seem to advance well through life when we support one another's strengths, so that's what we pursue. No need for ego and self-righteousness in OUR relationship.
She foresees soft prep surface for the unit.
Installation was a simple two screw deal at the back.
I've never liked rattles in a camper, of various metal on metal things. It seems campers can be just full of such noise, especially if you are ever "sent to your room" for part of the drive. So I looked over the cover and "got's this idea, see?"
Poly tubing for Lil' Queeny's curtain install (coming in the future). It will be used similarly to the black stuff used on Tow-Mater.
I cut six short segments off, and cut a lengthwise split into each with a utility knife. Then slid those over these areas.
Hinge area that sits on the stove edge high spot. This may change to just one tubing piece per side.
And resting on the chrome band at front, the cover's front edge - one per side.
That prevented metal on metal, and they seem to hold okay - so far. We'll see what happens on that.
In storage, fridge air gets stale and stinky. Modern units have built-in solutions. Our fridge did not. I bought the little black plastic inserts from a small parts bin at the home center way back ago. When I went looking again - Twilight Zone City. No where to be found. Maybe it never happened. So instead of THAT plan, I just drilled a smaller hole. Like this.
And in storage mode.
Awhile back, we bought DW's dream fridge for the house - french door, bottom freezer. It was a Kenmore - our long-held "go to" for durable goods appliances. Sure enough, it failed one month past warranty. It was only then, that we learned they used "low quality solder", questionable construction quality assurance processes - not to mention "low wage labor locations" so the Sears owner (CEO guy) could continue his selfish, non-regulated, "self-made man" fantasy and misguided reasons for existence, and such cheapo circuit board quality that you can't even get a non-Sears local service man willing to screw you even worse by fixing any of it!
We did a temporary "add freon" fix method, which just prolonged our misery for another year, and learned that appliance quality these days is ALL about the warranty period, and has NOTHING to do with historical reputation.
One year = Kenmore, Samsung, LG, etc.
Ten year = Kitchen Aide, I think Whirlpool, a few others.
We replaced with a purchase from a long term local (non-big box store) business (who we always assumed would be too expensive), and bought a Kitchen Aide - same style, for the same price!
Hey! It's partly our own faults folks. We want cheapest (often assumed by purchase point), and we're too busy forwarding FaceBook propaganda and fighting among ourselves, to take the actual time needed to read warranties and Insurance policy coverages.
Instead of putting it all right into the landfill, we stored it in the yard (salvage plans for parts). The internal plastic bins may work for small compartment organization in Lil' Queeny.
We found this cool vintage water cooler jug at a second hand store. You know for drinking water back and forth from truck-cab to camper. But - in camper, it uses more surface space than other methods might (like our gallon jug method we've used forever).
The jury is still out. I like it better than DW does. It'll find a home somewhere, if not in Lil' Queeny, perhaps in Tow-Mater. Or maybe in "The Po' Boys!
{Safety Recall - Kidde Fire Extinguisher in this post}
Today: Safety Equipment - Smoke alarm, fire extinguisher, Carbon Monoxide (CO) detector, Propane detector.
Not only do we desire effective safety equipment in the camper, but we want it to look nice. Sometimes you give up one for the other, but we were fortunate that our bisque/almond/prairie wheat colors were original - and being reused - so basic standard stuff worked well. Like the smoke alarm previously reported - way back ago.
Just a Kidde brand in bisque, from off the shelf at Wally-world. Inexpensive, 9 volt battery operated, placed above the fridge area next to a ceiling light to cover a small piece of damage in the finished birch paneling I had caused when drilling some new holes in roof framing for wires back ago.
We had the fire extinguisher on hand - don't recall from where. {I originally determined this extinguisher as part of the 2015 recall batch due to model number alone - however, upon attempt to follow replacement processes, mine was NOT considered part of the recall, because it is one of the red ones, not the white one. I'm not sure I understand exactly what those facts mean, so I will likely replace this unit - please see link at top of post}
I placed it in this little unused corner by the entry door for easy access from outside, and from the galley.
I like to mount these high enough to allow broom bristle access beneath them, as opposed to resting on the floor.
It's also a Kidde brand, in 3 lbs using dry chemical, for type B/C fires. B is flammable liquids, and C is electrical. It can also smother combustibles (paper/wood), which is type A, but those can smolder and re-ignite. These things are mostly for escape.
If you choose NOT to get new ones, or refill existing ones (per recommendations), at least do like we do, every 6 months or so we check the dials, and make sure the pressure gauges read in the green...
And just as importantly, hold the extinguisher in your hands, turning it upside down and right side up repeatedly. Do it slow, holding the noisy, clinking sound making things still, like the handles, so you can hear what's going on inside the cylinder.
You're listening for the dry chemical powder to flow back and forth as you turn. It's not loud. This helps to prevent the powder from compaction, and keeps it granular so it can flow when the pressure blows it out the nozzle.
We also have another in the truck, as we do in all our vehicles, and a number in our home.
The CO detector is - once again, a Kidde brand - $25 from Amazon. Lots of fine print instructions and information found in the paperwork.
Per instructions, I installed the included 3AA batteries, and wrote it's replace date (10 years from initial power up date) on it's side label...
Then fastened it "out of the way of stuff" like kitchen traffic, but NOT in a dead-air space (that's kind of hard to get both of those in a small space), and placed it high. CO is lighter than air.
Here at the foot of the bed in the cab-over bunk.
It's a digital readout type that keeps a record of the highest level recorded. The paper work tells you what do do about your number readings.
Once it reaches 10 years from initial power-up, it starts beeping twice in 30 seconds. When that begins, it is inoperable and must be replaced. If you catch it a month before (like the date I wrote on it) you can avoid it going off, due to age, during your beauty sleep.
The propane detector is an Atwood. But ours is black, and purchased last summer for the kids camper. But we never got 12 volt to them yet, so I used it in Queeny. It's a neat little kit with three mounting methods.
It mounts low (propane heavier than air) and we had several choices of locations. But we kind of liked this vacant spot...
That's one of the un-used mounting flanges I narrowed on the table saw so I could fit it in there and used it for a cut-out template.
I checked the back-side to make certain my saw wouldn't hit anything but wood...
And cut the opening.
Wiring was easy. Ground directly to the nearby grounding buss, and 12 volts positive tapped into the "electronics" (radio - yes it's installed now ๐ ) circuit.
Regarding battery changes for the smoke alarm and CO detector, industry recommendations are twice a year, at the daylight savings time changes. I test my batteries with a multi-meter, and I have invariably found, once a year is plenty good, and even THAT can be more often than necessary. But most people won't even stay up on 1/2 (or 1/4) as often as recommended, so standards have to be written to accommodate such people. I think.
Today: Safety Equipment - Smoke alarm, fire extinguisher, Carbon Monoxide (CO) detector, Propane detector.
Not only do we desire effective safety equipment in the camper, but we want it to look nice. Sometimes you give up one for the other, but we were fortunate that our bisque/almond/prairie wheat colors were original - and being reused - so basic standard stuff worked well. Like the smoke alarm previously reported - way back ago.
Just a Kidde brand in bisque, from off the shelf at Wally-world. Inexpensive, 9 volt battery operated, placed above the fridge area next to a ceiling light to cover a small piece of damage in the finished birch paneling I had caused when drilling some new holes in roof framing for wires back ago.
We had the fire extinguisher on hand - don't recall from where. {I originally determined this extinguisher as part of the 2015 recall batch due to model number alone - however, upon attempt to follow replacement processes, mine was NOT considered part of the recall, because it is one of the red ones, not the white one. I'm not sure I understand exactly what those facts mean, so I will likely replace this unit - please see link at top of post}
I placed it in this little unused corner by the entry door for easy access from outside, and from the galley.
I like to mount these high enough to allow broom bristle access beneath them, as opposed to resting on the floor.
It's also a Kidde brand, in 3 lbs using dry chemical, for type B/C fires. B is flammable liquids, and C is electrical. It can also smother combustibles (paper/wood), which is type A, but those can smolder and re-ignite. These things are mostly for escape.
If you choose NOT to get new ones, or refill existing ones (per recommendations), at least do like we do, every 6 months or so we check the dials, and make sure the pressure gauges read in the green...
And just as importantly, hold the extinguisher in your hands, turning it upside down and right side up repeatedly. Do it slow, holding the noisy, clinking sound making things still, like the handles, so you can hear what's going on inside the cylinder.
You're listening for the dry chemical powder to flow back and forth as you turn. It's not loud. This helps to prevent the powder from compaction, and keeps it granular so it can flow when the pressure blows it out the nozzle.
We also have another in the truck, as we do in all our vehicles, and a number in our home.
The CO detector is - once again, a Kidde brand - $25 from Amazon. Lots of fine print instructions and information found in the paperwork.
Per instructions, I installed the included 3AA batteries, and wrote it's replace date (10 years from initial power up date) on it's side label...
Then fastened it "out of the way of stuff" like kitchen traffic, but NOT in a dead-air space (that's kind of hard to get both of those in a small space), and placed it high. CO is lighter than air.
Here at the foot of the bed in the cab-over bunk.
It's a digital readout type that keeps a record of the highest level recorded. The paper work tells you what do do about your number readings.
Once it reaches 10 years from initial power-up, it starts beeping twice in 30 seconds. When that begins, it is inoperable and must be replaced. If you catch it a month before (like the date I wrote on it) you can avoid it going off, due to age, during your beauty sleep.
The propane detector is an Atwood. But ours is black, and purchased last summer for the kids camper. But we never got 12 volt to them yet, so I used it in Queeny. It's a neat little kit with three mounting methods.
It mounts low (propane heavier than air) and we had several choices of locations. But we kind of liked this vacant spot...
That's one of the un-used mounting flanges I narrowed on the table saw so I could fit it in there and used it for a cut-out template.
I checked the back-side to make certain my saw wouldn't hit anything but wood...
And cut the opening.
Wiring was easy. Ground directly to the nearby grounding buss, and 12 volts positive tapped into the "electronics" (radio - yes it's installed now ๐ ) circuit.
Regarding battery changes for the smoke alarm and CO detector, industry recommendations are twice a year, at the daylight savings time changes. I test my batteries with a multi-meter, and I have invariably found, once a year is plenty good, and even THAT can be more often than necessary. But most people won't even stay up on 1/2 (or 1/4) as often as recommended, so standards have to be written to accommodate such people. I think.
Today: The broom closet, galley waste can and recycle center.
Do you have a broom closet? We have a closet in our home where we keep the broom, but it's not where the waste can is found.
Growing up though, we had a broom closet. Of course that's where we kept the broom, and everything else was found in there too. Trash can, fly-swatter, vacuum cleaner, cleaning rags - everything!
Nowadays, our trash can and recycle center is separate from the broom. But in a space as small as Lil' Queeny - combined areas. Kinda.
The last post in this thread was about building the galley waste receptacle, on the swing out door, below the water heater. That was back in April. So between then and now, I got some finish on that can.
Made out of scrap wood, it first got some sanding, and then stain.
Next day, a first coat of poly...
And then a second.
For a garbage can, I figured two coats were enough.
Once dry, back on went the mounting screws and spacers (faucet washers), which simply allow a plastic liner to slip over its top.
And hung it back up.
This is "take out the trash day" mode. Easily accessed from outside the camper.
This is "in use" mode.
And this is "out of sight - out of mind" mode.
DW had some smaller than kitchen bags in the house for waste cans in bedrooms, baths, etc. so I grabbed one. Hmmmm, might fit. Has ties - not bad. And much better than those leaky shopping bags that have holes in their bottoms.
Hey, perfect fit and sizing! Depending on trip length, we'll keep a stock of these under the swing out - in the bottom of the cabinet.
Or shall we say - in the broom closet.
And how do we fit a broom in THAT closet? Telescoping. DW bought this back ago for our TT. I stole it for Lil' Queeny.
Note the handle clamp there in the foreground. Well... here.
I found that in a coffee can labeled "Brackets - Small".
But to get it on a surface that worked, I needed a spacer. Enter extra 1x oak in the scrap pile.
That spaces it away from the side wall behind the water pipe, but back far enough to clear the swinging waste can door.
Wide angle wonk. It's level. ๐
And now we can securely store the broom out of the way, but easy to find.
The floor and entry door threshold will be a sweeping ramp, but we'll also keep a small dust pan in the cabinet. I believe there's plenty of space on the opposing side wall from the broom.
But what's this about a recycle center? Well - that's in the spot we originally planned for two waste cans before battery placement changed those plans for us. Under here.
I used to have strength to crush cans by hand, nowadays I work smarter not harder.
That's a can crusher. This is "in use" mode.
Of course, you first need to shake the last little bits of liquid out before crushing and stowing cans. No smells, and no beer flies.
Then they go in shopping sacks. Two here on hooks. One on top of the battery box (shorter and wider storage), and one to the side (taller, but narrow). And you can put other re-cycleables in here too: paper, plastic, etc.
When bags (trash or recycle) are full, of course they're taken out to the closest dumpster or recycle places (which are starting to pop up more and more).
If we're still in the wilderness, we will store these outside, in the left front wheel well storage behind door #1.
Do you have a broom closet? We have a closet in our home where we keep the broom, but it's not where the waste can is found.
Growing up though, we had a broom closet. Of course that's where we kept the broom, and everything else was found in there too. Trash can, fly-swatter, vacuum cleaner, cleaning rags - everything!
Nowadays, our trash can and recycle center is separate from the broom. But in a space as small as Lil' Queeny - combined areas. Kinda.
The last post in this thread was about building the galley waste receptacle, on the swing out door, below the water heater. That was back in April. So between then and now, I got some finish on that can.
Made out of scrap wood, it first got some sanding, and then stain.
Next day, a first coat of poly...
And then a second.
For a garbage can, I figured two coats were enough.
Once dry, back on went the mounting screws and spacers (faucet washers), which simply allow a plastic liner to slip over its top.
And hung it back up.
This is "take out the trash day" mode. Easily accessed from outside the camper.
This is "in use" mode.
And this is "out of sight - out of mind" mode.
DW had some smaller than kitchen bags in the house for waste cans in bedrooms, baths, etc. so I grabbed one. Hmmmm, might fit. Has ties - not bad. And much better than those leaky shopping bags that have holes in their bottoms.
Hey, perfect fit and sizing! Depending on trip length, we'll keep a stock of these under the swing out - in the bottom of the cabinet.
Or shall we say - in the broom closet.
And how do we fit a broom in THAT closet? Telescoping. DW bought this back ago for our TT. I stole it for Lil' Queeny.
Note the handle clamp there in the foreground. Well... here.
I found that in a coffee can labeled "Brackets - Small".
But to get it on a surface that worked, I needed a spacer. Enter extra 1x oak in the scrap pile.
That spaces it away from the side wall behind the water pipe, but back far enough to clear the swinging waste can door.
Wide angle wonk. It's level. ๐
And now we can securely store the broom out of the way, but easy to find.
The floor and entry door threshold will be a sweeping ramp, but we'll also keep a small dust pan in the cabinet. I believe there's plenty of space on the opposing side wall from the broom.
But what's this about a recycle center? Well - that's in the spot we originally planned for two waste cans before battery placement changed those plans for us. Under here.
I used to have strength to crush cans by hand, nowadays I work smarter not harder.
That's a can crusher. This is "in use" mode.
Of course, you first need to shake the last little bits of liquid out before crushing and stowing cans. No smells, and no beer flies.
Then they go in shopping sacks. Two here on hooks. One on top of the battery box (shorter and wider storage), and one to the side (taller, but narrow). And you can put other re-cycleables in here too: paper, plastic, etc.
When bags (trash or recycle) are full, of course they're taken out to the closest dumpster or recycle places (which are starting to pop up more and more).
If we're still in the wilderness, we will store these outside, in the left front wheel well storage behind door #1.
Thank you billyray50, I appreciate the support.
Recently I've been playing over in Chapter 8. Fresh Water. The work was related to getting the copper pipe line from the fresh water tank to the under cabinet water heater area for full fresh water distribution. That work began here.
In it, I introduced "Sharkbite" connectors to the project. Previously I had asked others if they tend to hold up in "moving tiny homes apps" and had received positive comments.
If you are unfamiliar with Sharkbites, or other brands of similar connectors (which included me until just recently), they consist of a "push-in and seal" type of connection. A connection which is removable, using the proper tool. Tools are great things, until you need it and can't find it. So I hid mine! Just like I do with most everything. Maybe you know what I mean?
But you have to be organized! Get a place for everything, and keep everything in its place! Same concept in Lil' Queeny, as in a small boat. These little RVs don't include "storage for stuff", they only contain "places to stow stuff". There really is a difference, when you're willing to reflect on it.
So I stowed my Sharkbite removal tool, in a visible place this time (we should see it every time we empty the garbage in Lil' Queeny). Here it is in its new home, a small orange c-shaped snap-on fit, which when pressed against the joint correctly, allows the pipe piece to pull out of the connector.
And that kind of finished up the fresh water job, for the time being. Thus, today we are in Finishes and Finishing.
Another little thing I did was to re-route the galley sink under-counter spray-hose, and used a different clamp on the water heater wiring coil, to get it tucked tight, away from the sprayer hose movement.
Both of which you can see here in this photo.
And the hose push-pull works well enough now that we'll try it for awhile, instead of looking to a more flexible metal type hose.
Also in the above photo you might notice the "dish-soap" bottle for the pump dispenser mounted on the counter surface.
Here's a better view for it.
And over to the right, near the stove, is another one for hand-lotion. Conditions are very tight in both areas, but particularly here on the right. The vent and drain pipes barely give the container clearance, as does the drawer guide. But this one spot allowed for it.
She how tight it is? You can barely see it on the right, near the vent/drain on the left, both right behind the top drawer.
But up top, all looks happy.
Now DW is generally a woman of few words (when it comes to her wants), but she cannot stop exclaiming how well her galley is coming along. And that tells me I've been on the right track ๐
DW went Easter shopping for the boys toys, which we're getting into today, but while she was gone, I decided to continue work toward some Galley Finishes and Finishing. That was also part of cleanup, reorganizing shelves and parts, and small piles of wood, and plumbing materials. It's all changing, all of the time, as I move through this project. And I'm still cleaning paint over-spray dust from EVERYTHING, including the stuff that was under and behind tarps! Sheesh!
I decided to make the garbage can box.
We've been through a few different plans regarding camper garbage and waste can receptacle stowage (notice how I said stowage and not storage). Stowage is where stuff belongs, storage is what you do with boxes until you die and force your kids to deal with your collection habits.
This is an example. Here's where we will stow the taller stuff, like our coffee peculator (that is to say our daily work-horse unit), as well as the little avocado-green three-cup electric-percolator you've seen on the counter (which is for show, and for possible other moments than the big job of morning-coffee chores).
Kind of like the difference between buying (and stowing) a case of beer, or just buying a two-pack (if they made such a beast).
But when Ticki2 helped me realize my battery stowage plans needed to go elsewhere than the original place by the charger/converter/power center (for explosive gas reasons), I put the battery where I had planned to locate garbages (near the fresh water tank). In fact, that area, as it received needed "stuff", kept reducing the size of waste cans to something smaller than "usable". We surely don't want cans on the floor or sacks hanging on a cabinet handle!
This area has long been the planned space for the galley garbage - in Walmart sized sacks (or even a little bigger than that).
The depth (for something mounted on the door) is maximum 5.5".
I had already salvaged the main 1/8" birch paneling board from the "good" side of a spare camper cabinet door, brought to the game from the other Travel Queen parts camper - which was used for the fridge panel and doors above and below the fridge). Now I needed to remove the plywood spacers and get some good 1/8" wood from the back side of the door.
And that came off with little damage.
Next was to cut pieces to pre-measured size and some 3/4" cleat material as well. A few beads of wood glue, some well placed staples, and voila!
I left cleats off the top edges so "stuffed garbage sacks" will slide out un-restricted.
Then I determined mounting hole locations, based on the swing-out door and where the sandwiched "1/2" plywood spacers" likely lived inside, between the door panel front and rear surfaces, and drilled holes in the new box. I needed a top edge which provided a space to pull a garbage sack over, so the entire box needed spacing out from its mounting surface. I looked in my collection of washers, but then decided to use some of these vintage, long-unused rubber faucet-washers from another little collection I've probably had since 1978. They were perfect!
And prepared to get it on the door.
After mounting, the box hit the door opening and wouldn't shut! In the words of many a great man, "whoops". I had failed to account for it's increased depth, based on the spacer sizes.
So I took the door off and got it on the bench, where it had really belonged all along. Then I tried a second time.
The offset is required by the door swing angle.
Here's the bottom.
And the top.
And the result.
Even easily accessible from outside the camper while "re-stocking".
Now that comes off for finishing - probably in the same "gun-stock" as the rest of the birch plywood paneling throughout the camper.
When DW came home she was smiling!
Recently I've been playing over in Chapter 8. Fresh Water. The work was related to getting the copper pipe line from the fresh water tank to the under cabinet water heater area for full fresh water distribution. That work began here.
In it, I introduced "Sharkbite" connectors to the project. Previously I had asked others if they tend to hold up in "moving tiny homes apps" and had received positive comments.
If you are unfamiliar with Sharkbites, or other brands of similar connectors (which included me until just recently), they consist of a "push-in and seal" type of connection. A connection which is removable, using the proper tool. Tools are great things, until you need it and can't find it. So I hid mine! Just like I do with most everything. Maybe you know what I mean?
But you have to be organized! Get a place for everything, and keep everything in its place! Same concept in Lil' Queeny, as in a small boat. These little RVs don't include "storage for stuff", they only contain "places to stow stuff". There really is a difference, when you're willing to reflect on it.
So I stowed my Sharkbite removal tool, in a visible place this time (we should see it every time we empty the garbage in Lil' Queeny). Here it is in its new home, a small orange c-shaped snap-on fit, which when pressed against the joint correctly, allows the pipe piece to pull out of the connector.
And that kind of finished up the fresh water job, for the time being. Thus, today we are in Finishes and Finishing.
Another little thing I did was to re-route the galley sink under-counter spray-hose, and used a different clamp on the water heater wiring coil, to get it tucked tight, away from the sprayer hose movement.
Both of which you can see here in this photo.
And the hose push-pull works well enough now that we'll try it for awhile, instead of looking to a more flexible metal type hose.
Also in the above photo you might notice the "dish-soap" bottle for the pump dispenser mounted on the counter surface.
Here's a better view for it.
And over to the right, near the stove, is another one for hand-lotion. Conditions are very tight in both areas, but particularly here on the right. The vent and drain pipes barely give the container clearance, as does the drawer guide. But this one spot allowed for it.
She how tight it is? You can barely see it on the right, near the vent/drain on the left, both right behind the top drawer.
But up top, all looks happy.
Now DW is generally a woman of few words (when it comes to her wants), but she cannot stop exclaiming how well her galley is coming along. And that tells me I've been on the right track ๐
DW went Easter shopping for the boys toys, which we're getting into today, but while she was gone, I decided to continue work toward some Galley Finishes and Finishing. That was also part of cleanup, reorganizing shelves and parts, and small piles of wood, and plumbing materials. It's all changing, all of the time, as I move through this project. And I'm still cleaning paint over-spray dust from EVERYTHING, including the stuff that was under and behind tarps! Sheesh!
I decided to make the garbage can box.
We've been through a few different plans regarding camper garbage and waste can receptacle stowage (notice how I said stowage and not storage). Stowage is where stuff belongs, storage is what you do with boxes until you die and force your kids to deal with your collection habits.
This is an example. Here's where we will stow the taller stuff, like our coffee peculator (that is to say our daily work-horse unit), as well as the little avocado-green three-cup electric-percolator you've seen on the counter (which is for show, and for possible other moments than the big job of morning-coffee chores).
Kind of like the difference between buying (and stowing) a case of beer, or just buying a two-pack (if they made such a beast).
But when Ticki2 helped me realize my battery stowage plans needed to go elsewhere than the original place by the charger/converter/power center (for explosive gas reasons), I put the battery where I had planned to locate garbages (near the fresh water tank). In fact, that area, as it received needed "stuff", kept reducing the size of waste cans to something smaller than "usable". We surely don't want cans on the floor or sacks hanging on a cabinet handle!
This area has long been the planned space for the galley garbage - in Walmart sized sacks (or even a little bigger than that).
The depth (for something mounted on the door) is maximum 5.5".
I had already salvaged the main 1/8" birch paneling board from the "good" side of a spare camper cabinet door, brought to the game from the other Travel Queen parts camper - which was used for the fridge panel and doors above and below the fridge). Now I needed to remove the plywood spacers and get some good 1/8" wood from the back side of the door.
And that came off with little damage.
Next was to cut pieces to pre-measured size and some 3/4" cleat material as well. A few beads of wood glue, some well placed staples, and voila!
I left cleats off the top edges so "stuffed garbage sacks" will slide out un-restricted.
Then I determined mounting hole locations, based on the swing-out door and where the sandwiched "1/2" plywood spacers" likely lived inside, between the door panel front and rear surfaces, and drilled holes in the new box. I needed a top edge which provided a space to pull a garbage sack over, so the entire box needed spacing out from its mounting surface. I looked in my collection of washers, but then decided to use some of these vintage, long-unused rubber faucet-washers from another little collection I've probably had since 1978. They were perfect!
And prepared to get it on the door.
After mounting, the box hit the door opening and wouldn't shut! In the words of many a great man, "whoops". I had failed to account for it's increased depth, based on the spacer sizes.
So I took the door off and got it on the bench, where it had really belonged all along. Then I tried a second time.
The offset is required by the door swing angle.
Here's the bottom.
And the top.
And the result.
Even easily accessible from outside the camper while "re-stocking".
Now that comes off for finishing - probably in the same "gun-stock" as the rest of the birch plywood paneling throughout the camper.
When DW came home she was smiling!
Having just completed the tie-downs and camper corner build over in Chapter 6 Jacks and Tie-downs (steel & aluminum, sandwiching the wood and siding) and spending the past four days posting that big job, which actually began about 10 days ago with parts taken to DS-in-law for welding, I was ready for a break.
Besides, lately the nice Spring days have been making it really hard to stay inside, and numerous Spring chores are calling my name! It's been beautiful for late March in Wyoming.
Now it's time to re-group and get some other work done, and get my head into the next portions of Lil' Queeny. I may be in and out for awhile.
But there are numerous small jobs I could get in the meantime, and they'll be in here - Finishing - as often as not. I think one coming up in "Exterior" and a couple in "Electric", etc.
The major jobs still to do include upholstery, at both the dinette and the bed, and both of those areas will include some lumber building with special treatment I have planned in those places. Also the bathroom work, the exterior edge trimming, clearance light special treatment, floor, and the fresh water lines and plumbing! Not to mention specialty things that may well end up as "future modifications", such as storage bins in the right side wheel wells accessible from under the cushion in the wing.
I suspect these main things might all get finished by summer some time, but the April completion goal is not attainable.
However, this project isn't about getting done, it's about doing what's necessary. And at this stage of the game, I don't feel it can be rushed. It just needs to take as long as it takes.
So here's a little piece I did the other day that I haven't reported on yet. Trimming the interior of the overhead bunk escape hatch.
If you've done anything with vinyl home siding (maybe steel siding is similar, I don't know) you know what I mean by "J trim" or molding. If you look at it's profile it's in the shape of a J, and is fastened to your house along a wall edge, giving the end of a length of siding a channel to sit in. It holds the ends and finishes the edges.
That day (long, long ago) when we bought some clearance priced siding at the home center for me to cut my camper's interior "outside corner trim" from, DW pointed out the J trim pieces and asked if I could use those. I said, yes - maybe. So here I am using them now.
Here's what I had after making some rips and cuts on the table saw. I had just enough to do the four longer runs around the escape hatch, but two pieces were not long enough to miter the 45 degree angles. So I used a slightly different treatment in the corners. Also shown are the holes drilled for screws.
Here's the view from the pillow.
And from the Greatroom.
I also removed the unsightly decals from the aluminum framing. Shhhh, don't tell OSHA. That black handle is temporary too. We haven't yet chosen final cranks.
Besides, lately the nice Spring days have been making it really hard to stay inside, and numerous Spring chores are calling my name! It's been beautiful for late March in Wyoming.
Now it's time to re-group and get some other work done, and get my head into the next portions of Lil' Queeny. I may be in and out for awhile.
But there are numerous small jobs I could get in the meantime, and they'll be in here - Finishing - as often as not. I think one coming up in "Exterior" and a couple in "Electric", etc.
The major jobs still to do include upholstery, at both the dinette and the bed, and both of those areas will include some lumber building with special treatment I have planned in those places. Also the bathroom work, the exterior edge trimming, clearance light special treatment, floor, and the fresh water lines and plumbing! Not to mention specialty things that may well end up as "future modifications", such as storage bins in the right side wheel wells accessible from under the cushion in the wing.
I suspect these main things might all get finished by summer some time, but the April completion goal is not attainable.
However, this project isn't about getting done, it's about doing what's necessary. And at this stage of the game, I don't feel it can be rushed. It just needs to take as long as it takes.
So here's a little piece I did the other day that I haven't reported on yet. Trimming the interior of the overhead bunk escape hatch.
If you've done anything with vinyl home siding (maybe steel siding is similar, I don't know) you know what I mean by "J trim" or molding. If you look at it's profile it's in the shape of a J, and is fastened to your house along a wall edge, giving the end of a length of siding a channel to sit in. It holds the ends and finishes the edges.
That day (long, long ago) when we bought some clearance priced siding at the home center for me to cut my camper's interior "outside corner trim" from, DW pointed out the J trim pieces and asked if I could use those. I said, yes - maybe. So here I am using them now.
Here's what I had after making some rips and cuts on the table saw. I had just enough to do the four longer runs around the escape hatch, but two pieces were not long enough to miter the 45 degree angles. So I used a slightly different treatment in the corners. Also shown are the holes drilled for screws.
Here's the view from the pillow.
And from the Greatroom.
I also removed the unsightly decals from the aluminum framing. Shhhh, don't tell OSHA. That black handle is temporary too. We haven't yet chosen final cranks.
