Add another battery?

[ottor]

New Jayco 18' TT - 2 families were to camp from Friday - Sunday... I took the trailer up on Wed to hold the area before the rest came up on Friday.. Got there about 2:00 in afternoon and it was pretty chilly. Switched the Fridge over to Gas, used the interior lights very sparingly, supplemented with an LED battery lantern. Turned on the Furnace. Used water pump 3-4 short times - Thursday warmed up a little about 10 AM so turned off the furnace. Turned it on again about 9:00PM for bed ..... apparently the battery died in the middle of Thursday night, as when I woke up, my onions were frozen. (No... I mean that literally) It was so cold that the vegetables inside the trailer froze solid. Now, I'm extremely hesitant to dry camp based on that.. The rest of the family arrived Friday afternoon, and I had a dead battery for the rest of the weekend for them. The battery was fully charged when we left home, and with the minimal use - except the furnace blower - the best I got from that battery was about 2 days. First time trailer owner, so I didn't know what to expect as far as duration goes, but I thought I did everything I could to maximize my electrical usage..... I guess I'll have to upgrade to the LED lighting, and get another battery. I hate to spend the money for the 6V golf cart ones, but - I may have to... How do you use a generator?? - Do you use it only when you run something electrical, or do you use it to actually charge/recharge a trailer battery??

[Passin_Thru]

Why, I camped in AK once and our Farts froze til spring. Boy was that a noisy mess when they thawed. Try a single Caterpillar battery. They are aboout 3 ft long and will start a bulldozer.

[NinerBikes]

As stated,

Extensive modifications, for dry camping. Myself, I hate the sound of the damn fan heater in my Palomino Gazelle G21. Jackets, a down comforter on the queen sized bed keep the chill away, but I'm not used to camping in ID or MT at 5000feet + elevation.

Your GC-2 batteries really need to get topped off while camping, to 15.0V. If you go the 160w folding panels, you'll need a programmable charge controller like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-Solar-Panel-battery-charge-controller-20A-amp-12V-Solar-PV-system-Black-/231089352396


Here is my suggestion. Buy two 120 watt panels from Solar Blvd. Hinge them together with regular Stanley door hinges, that you can remove the hinge pins from. Attach to frames of solar panels with machine screws, after drilling holes in the frame. You are going to need a 20 amp charge controller. Like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-Solar-Panel-battery-charge-controller-20A-amp-12V-Solar-PV-system-Black-/231089352396


This will get you 14 to 15 amps charging rate. Run that for 5 or 6 hours in the winter, and it should cover your needs. The other option is if you camp spring , summer and fall seasons, and have a 3 season travel trailer... you could go with a pair of 100 watt panels instead, which is what RJFishing runs, all the time. Don't know how much heat he runs though with the stock unit, he went with propane heaters like I mentioned.

http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Panels-&-Systems-12-Volt-Solar-Panels/c1_269/p2714/Two-Solar-Cynergy-120-Watt-12-Volt-Solar-Panels-with-Y-Connector/product_info.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-Solar-Panel-battery-charge-controller-20A-amp-12V-Solar-PV-system-Black-/231089352396

This charge controller is programmable. It charges at 14.4V in bulk mode. What you need, with those Golf cart batteries, is 15.0V, not 14.4., which is what this unit will provide. The higher voltage also will increase the time that the amps stay high, to top off the battery. You'll want some good fat 10 gauge wire with a short run, no more than 3 feet, to your batteries, from this solar charge controller. To keep the amps up and the voltage up from the charge controller to the battery. On the input side of the charge controller, you'll need some sort of quick disconnect from your panel cord, and what ever distance you run to the solar panels to the charge controller. 10 gauge speaker wire can handle that, from the panels to the charge controller quick disconnect.

I just can't see you getting by with much under 200 watts, with that lap top and the heater. If you rig something up to warm the place up without the stock heater that needs electricity, that runs off your two 20 lb propane tanks, and get rid of the fan... the 160 watt foldable portable will serve you well. Otherwise, you'll need more wattage, more size, more inconvenience and weight.

If you do buy the 160watt version, don't even bother to use the stock charge controller and wires provided, it's too damn skinny, cuts voltage to the battery and cuts amps too. Get the charge controller I showed you up above, 20 amps, and program it to give you 15.0 V... you have to go in there, to b1, in programming, and get it set up as + .6 14.4 + .6 will get you 15.0V, and that's what golf cart batteries demand and need, due to their true deep cycle nature.

Whatchya gonna do when it's cloudy all day to charge up your batteries? Honda Eu1000I and a PD 9245 with a bulk charge Pendant at 14.4V?

[jaycocreek]

ottor wrote:
I had never thought about using the truck battery for a critical time .. do you just hook them up, or do you have to run the truck?? My last post on this topic was last year, and since I have installed 2 6V golf cart batteries, and switched out to complete LED lighting.. As I now see it, my biggest draw is the heater for the evening.. Not real comfortable running portable propane heaters inside the trailer for the night, so may just have to live with that,..

Either or,a lot of the guys I logged with hooked up with jumper cables in the morning when they were warming up there truck's and in the evening when we got back and never really had any issues with the rv batteries.

As for the portable heaters, most rv dealers have them and install them.If you follow the directions, your safe.Never heard of anyone being killed from a catalytic heater in an rv properly installed and run.

[ottor]

I had never thought about using the truck battery for a critical time .. do you just hook them up, or do you have to run the truck?? My last post on this topic was last year, and since I have installed 2 6V golf cart batteries, and switched out to complete LED lighting.. As I now see it, my biggest draw is the heater for the evening.. Not real comfortable running portable propane heaters inside the trailer for the night, so may just have to live with that,..

[ewarnerusa]

I agree completely about TT's and probably RV's in general being designed for use while hooked up at a campground. Some thought and planning is required for regular boondocking/off grid use. There are parasitic draws from propane and CO sensors that are always pulling from the battery even though everything else is shut off. And something to consider about an absorption fridge on propane that did not occur to me until reading it here on this forum, even on propane there is a 12V control panel that is always drawing power. I have read that it is around 1 amp, that's 1A x 24hr = 24Ah per day. If you're using a single G24 12V marine battery like is common for OEM, then you've got about 75Ah capacity when fully charged which means you'll shoot for using no more than 37Ah based on the 50% rule of thumb. So just the fridge alone will use all of your available battery in less than 2 days if you are not recharging them somehow. Add incandescent lighting, water pump, and a furnace fan and your battery won't last long at all before it's dead.

I'm all for solar, best upgrade you can make I think! That includes adequate batteries as your electricity reservoir. We have a gen but I've only had to use it a couple times in the past couple years for battery charging. It is more for running the air conditioner occasionally, we usually don't even unload it from the truck for use. I suggest a double battery setup, moderate solar, and pure sine wave inverter for your low to moderate 120V AC power needs. You can always use the tow vehicle with jumper cables to get you out of a critically-low battery jam.

[avoidcrowds]

I have one Group 27 battery, and a 100w mounted solar kit from Windy Nation. It cost about $200.

I have dry camped for 9 nights three times, and never have run low on battery. Also have done two nights in a row, down below 15° F each night, and have used the furnace to keep at least 55° at night, and 70° in the evening.

I don't have problems with running low on power, even with furnace as only heat source. In my opinion, you would be fine with one battery, and at least 100w solar. Play it safe and get more wattage in your panels. Least-expensive way to go, in my opinion. If I wanted to spend more money, I would go with 2 6v batteries, instead of one 12v, though. May do that when this battery dies.

It was briefly mentioned, above, about draining your battery between trips. Parasitic drain killed my first battery after two years, before I got solar. Can't let it go dead, or you lose much of the storage power.

Good luck!

[jaycocreek]

. How do you use a generator?? - Do you use it only when you run something electrical, or do you use it to actually charge/recharge a trailer battery??

We run a generator to watch movies/use the microwave or air conditioner and especially, to keep the batteries at full charge.You don't need 6 volt batteries, two or even one rv
battery will do with the ability to recharge it whether by generator or other means.

I spend almost 100% of my rv time,in the hills without hookups.Solar is not an option where I camp and in my opinion,its way to expensive for what you get.

For less than $200 you can get a brand new Champion generator and keep your batteries full and run the microwave to.In my case,I have two Hondas, one 2k and one 3k that I use the most.The 3k when its hot out and may want to run the air and the 2k the rest of the time.

If you don't want to spend a bunch, just hook up your truck to the rv battery and charge it or them via jumper cables.Also, use a catalytic type heater which uses no battery power.Like you, living in Idaho gets cold and nothing runs down a battery worse than the furnace.

[drc5900]

NinerBikes wrote:
Most travel trailers are set up for full hook ups at a RV trailer park, it requires extra's and extensive modifications for power management when you start using them in dry camping applications.

X2.

Was the same for my TC.
At first I thought I was lacking battery capacity when dry camping, so I swapped the older single battery and installed (2) new batts for a total of 230 Ah's, but that didn't help. Did some research, and found out that the batteries didn't get charged at high enough voltage, not via the converter when plugged into shore power, nor via the trailer connector to the truck when driving.
Indeed, as NinerBikes said, it requires extensive mods to make it work for dry camping. Primarily to charge the batteries to 100%.

Please keep in mind that battery performance drops as temperature drops.

Also, as others stated before, the furnace uses up a lot of energy.

[Captain_Obvious]

Solarblvd 160W folding panels

I bought these and have been pleased with them so far (in testing). I will post a write up once I actually take them camping.

[NinerBikes]

ottor wrote:
WOW - you guys are great - this many replies in such a short time ... I can be pretty conservative with my lighting, and I almost always take an ice chest with me for ice and meats - but I'm a freelance photographer and take the trailer out in the boonies for photoshoots.. I have a mobile hotspot for Internet, and shoot photos in the day and using my computer, process them in the afternoon/evening and upload to Dropbox almost nightly. I don't 'surf' the net, but sometimes those uploads take a couple of hours .. so it appears my main concern is the heater fan and computer useage. "IF" I were to go the Solar route, what would be a good size? I'd like it to be portable, so I can park in the shade and run the panels out to the sun. Would I also need to upgrade to an additional battery, or should the solar unit keep the one I have charged for usage each day? Thanks again for the input - it appears a solar rig would cost less than a battery upgrade and/generator!

A little bit of charging monitoring will tell you a lot about when your batteries are getting close to topped off. This would be the time to run the laptop and do your processing, while excess amps are being made by the panels that the battery can not take on and store, being close to being topped off. This is probably, if sized correctly, a 1 or 2 in the afternoon type of scenario, if your solar panel selection is large enough, to your battery usage over night, etc.

Most travel trailers are set up for full hook ups at a RV trailer park, it requires extra's and extensive modifications for power management when you start using them in dry camping applications.

[JiminDenver]

A few different ways depending on what's available now compared to the last time I looked.

You can go to Solarblvd.com and get a good sized panel for $150 + shipping (to me $60). A Eco-worthy 20a MPPT charge controller is $102 shipped. My set of 25ft solar cables with MC4 connectors was $32 shipped. That leaves the run from the battery to the controller which is variable to your needs.

You can get 100w portable kits on ebay for $200 or less shipped, get two they are small.

Solarblvd also has a 160w folding kit for $269, not quite 200w but not $400 either.

lastly, check local shops or craigslist for your panels. My 220w and 230w panels were $50 each.

[ottor]

JiminDenver wrote:
Otto

We have the above and it all worked nice but nothing gave us the freedom from worrying about the battery like the simple 230w solar system I cobbled together. Unless it's cloudy for days we can't use the power it puts out. We light the rig up from end to end, set the stat at 74 all day and night and can watch TV/DVD, listen to radio and run the fans all we want. The battery is always fully charged at night and losses little overnight. We never run the generator for charging, but we do take it as a back up. It would cost around $400 to make a system like it.

I'd like a portable system, so am looking at a "Zamp" 200 Wt portable ... suitcase type 2 panels, 16' wire & controller = approx. $900.00 .. How would you do the same for the approx. $400 you mention?

Thanks !!

r

[PartyMarty]

EXIDE EDGE AGM ABOUT $ 140 EACH

[PAThwacker]

Upgrading blue top optima x 2 atleast $500 more. That is yamaha 2000w invertor range.