For your entertainment and to clog up the great interweb... Actually 3 projects but done at the same time. Add the circulating pump, replace/relocate drain, add timer to pump
Added a circulating pump in bathroom to have 'instant' hot water. Part 1
Couple of recent threads, more recent outing and water was 37ยฐ caused me to revisit. I had replaced bath sink plumbing last year and used flex lines so splicing in a pump would be a lot simpler now.
There are a few really good installs threads, some quite elaborate, but in our truck camper the real estate just inst available. So this isn't one. This is just as simple inexpensive without to much attention to detail as a 'proof of concept' project. If it works Ill use- if it doesn't Ill remove, no loss.
Our bathroom sink is maybe 10' run from water heater. To get hot water, especially in the morning, requires running quite a bit of water down the drain. Which we don't..either waste the water or as precious, holding tank capacity. So washing my face I get first hand report of how cold it got during the night. Even though the volume of water in pipe is maybe a cup, it takes considerably more than that before water becomes hot.
This has been on the round to it forever. Adding a circulating pump. I actually bought small $15 pump 2 1/2" years ago to experiment with but never got around to it. One reason is I'm sure it would need at least one check valve which I don't have. Second was I really don't know if pumping hot line water into cold water line will work on the campers plumbing-where main pump or water heater might not let water loop thru closed pressurized system. Mainly, would have to cut the PEX lines to install to find out -which is where I always balked. Having since added the flex lines no longer issue.
The plan. Add tees to bath faucet lines, plumb to circulating pump from hot then into cold line. Power thru momentary switch off main water pump switch (to ensure new pump can only be turned on with water in lines). Seems simple. Picked up 2 Flair-it PEX tees.
Found a small 3/8" FPT inline check valve. Very little pressure needed to open.
The pump has 1/4" threaded outlets but terminates with a 3/8" barb so you can use either. I chose to use the barbs to simplify. Price brass fittings lately?
Adding tee on hot side above existing tee, cold side under as existing is a bit low. Working inside cabinet thru door past the drain a pain. Normally I would drop p-trap, just lazy
I coupled hot tees to decrease height.
Removed existing cold tee, added new one then with short piece of PEX replaced old tee on top. Tee to shower had been installed too low but now sink flex line is against bottom of sink, 12" line too short to loop, needs a longer line (note to self).
Mounted the pump and connected the lines. Check valve on pump outlet. This pump though supposedly self priming won't move air, so its mounted low to retain water in lines or so air wont settle directly at inlet. Really not liking the barbs on the pump. I double clamped but don't trust. Seems a bit soft and there are 2 flash seams. If this works I'll address but as I only have 50% confidence this is going to work and not pulling it all out, not spending a lot of energy now. Pump is mounted to 1/8" luan so it needs a backing board.
Pulled the water pump remote switch out to wire pump.
Added momentary switch, jumpered the water pump switch so either this remote or switch in kitchen feeds other pole of DPDT to energize the momentary. Added leads to plug pump in.
And done...initial bleeding of lines was a bit of a pain. Hopefully once water in lines & pump subsequent bleeds will be easier. Then again I had drained entire system so more air to move than usual plus new pump. Once lines bled then burp the circulating pump with cold faucet open to remove air in front. No leaks. Fired up the water heater.
Once heater shut off with little hope of success, my left hand at top of hot water flex line, pushed and held the momentary switch. Pump is pretty quite. Counted off about 7 seconds I could feel warmth so stopped. Opened the tap HOT WATER! Hokey smoke. I really didn't think this would work. Simple inline pump between hot and cold lines. Pretty stoked.
If I ever have an issue with pump Ill replace with a bit better pump and one with threaded 1/2" outlets and re-plumb with flex lines. Had I known this would work that's what I would have done from the get go. I might have 35 bucks for a what the heck trial but we have Instant hot water.
Left system pressurized with water pump off. Ill check pressure in the morning and recheck time to get hot water. Next morning system still holding pressure, no leaks. Refired water heater, once hot timed the circulating pump and I got 10 seconds to have HOT water at bathroom faucet.
Id want to redo the pump-not liking the clamps, could get rid of some by installing check valve directly to pump. Make mount board. Repaint the inside of cabinet. Maybe later.
Shut off valves would be nice but picked up 2 Flair-it caps for the tees just in case.
And sooner than later:
2 days later pump started leaking at the line on outlet barbs. Slight but leaking. Pulled it all out.
Cut off the pumps barbs and threaded on brass fittings. Check valve directly on pump. Cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to remount the pump on, glued and screwed to wall. Ready to remount but I stopped.
I kept seeing the silly 1 1/2" drain on this little sink. Open the door to this under sink cabinet your greeted with 1 1/2" P-trap. Area inside is fairly large but can barely get a spare roll of TP inside. I don't know why its plumbed as it is. I cant fathom why stand pipe isn't directly behind sink drain, why P-trap is so low. Decided now would be the time since water lines that go over/under are loose to look at changing. If only changing to 1 1/4" p-trap would increase space but looks like I could both raise and rotate. So Off to the hardware...
Wow look at the room...oh-thats not going to work. Need to drop p-trap to get at stand pipe level, sink tail is too short and with longer one puts p-trap almost where it was.
If I cut the pipe coming out of wall might be able to 45ยฐ end toward sink. How the heck do I get in there to cut it?...
Added a circulating pump in bathroom to have 'instant' hot water. Part 1
Couple of recent threads, more recent outing and water was 37ยฐ caused me to revisit. I had replaced bath sink plumbing last year and used flex lines so splicing in a pump would be a lot simpler now.
There are a few really good installs threads, some quite elaborate, but in our truck camper the real estate just inst available. So this isn't one. This is just as simple inexpensive without to much attention to detail as a 'proof of concept' project. If it works Ill use- if it doesn't Ill remove, no loss.
Our bathroom sink is maybe 10' run from water heater. To get hot water, especially in the morning, requires running quite a bit of water down the drain. Which we don't..either waste the water or as precious, holding tank capacity. So washing my face I get first hand report of how cold it got during the night. Even though the volume of water in pipe is maybe a cup, it takes considerably more than that before water becomes hot.
This has been on the round to it forever. Adding a circulating pump. I actually bought small $15 pump 2 1/2" years ago to experiment with but never got around to it. One reason is I'm sure it would need at least one check valve which I don't have. Second was I really don't know if pumping hot line water into cold water line will work on the campers plumbing-where main pump or water heater might not let water loop thru closed pressurized system. Mainly, would have to cut the PEX lines to install to find out -which is where I always balked. Having since added the flex lines no longer issue.
The plan. Add tees to bath faucet lines, plumb to circulating pump from hot then into cold line. Power thru momentary switch off main water pump switch (to ensure new pump can only be turned on with water in lines). Seems simple. Picked up 2 Flair-it PEX tees.
Found a small 3/8" FPT inline check valve. Very little pressure needed to open.
The pump has 1/4" threaded outlets but terminates with a 3/8" barb so you can use either. I chose to use the barbs to simplify. Price brass fittings lately?
Adding tee on hot side above existing tee, cold side under as existing is a bit low. Working inside cabinet thru door past the drain a pain. Normally I would drop p-trap, just lazy
I coupled hot tees to decrease height.
Removed existing cold tee, added new one then with short piece of PEX replaced old tee on top. Tee to shower had been installed too low but now sink flex line is against bottom of sink, 12" line too short to loop, needs a longer line (note to self).
Mounted the pump and connected the lines. Check valve on pump outlet. This pump though supposedly self priming won't move air, so its mounted low to retain water in lines or so air wont settle directly at inlet. Really not liking the barbs on the pump. I double clamped but don't trust. Seems a bit soft and there are 2 flash seams. If this works I'll address but as I only have 50% confidence this is going to work and not pulling it all out, not spending a lot of energy now. Pump is mounted to 1/8" luan so it needs a backing board.
Pulled the water pump remote switch out to wire pump.
Added momentary switch, jumpered the water pump switch so either this remote or switch in kitchen feeds other pole of DPDT to energize the momentary. Added leads to plug pump in.
And done...initial bleeding of lines was a bit of a pain. Hopefully once water in lines & pump subsequent bleeds will be easier. Then again I had drained entire system so more air to move than usual plus new pump. Once lines bled then burp the circulating pump with cold faucet open to remove air in front. No leaks. Fired up the water heater.
Once heater shut off with little hope of success, my left hand at top of hot water flex line, pushed and held the momentary switch. Pump is pretty quite. Counted off about 7 seconds I could feel warmth so stopped. Opened the tap HOT WATER! Hokey smoke. I really didn't think this would work. Simple inline pump between hot and cold lines. Pretty stoked.
If I ever have an issue with pump Ill replace with a bit better pump and one with threaded 1/2" outlets and re-plumb with flex lines. Had I known this would work that's what I would have done from the get go. I might have 35 bucks for a what the heck trial but we have Instant hot water.
Left system pressurized with water pump off. Ill check pressure in the morning and recheck time to get hot water. Next morning system still holding pressure, no leaks. Refired water heater, once hot timed the circulating pump and I got 10 seconds to have HOT water at bathroom faucet.
Id want to redo the pump-not liking the clamps, could get rid of some by installing check valve directly to pump. Make mount board. Repaint the inside of cabinet. Maybe later.
Shut off valves would be nice but picked up 2 Flair-it caps for the tees just in case.
And sooner than later:
2 days later pump started leaking at the line on outlet barbs. Slight but leaking. Pulled it all out.
Cut off the pumps barbs and threaded on brass fittings. Check valve directly on pump. Cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to remount the pump on, glued and screwed to wall. Ready to remount but I stopped.
I kept seeing the silly 1 1/2" drain on this little sink. Open the door to this under sink cabinet your greeted with 1 1/2" P-trap. Area inside is fairly large but can barely get a spare roll of TP inside. I don't know why its plumbed as it is. I cant fathom why stand pipe isn't directly behind sink drain, why P-trap is so low. Decided now would be the time since water lines that go over/under are loose to look at changing. If only changing to 1 1/4" p-trap would increase space but looks like I could both raise and rotate. So Off to the hardware...
Wow look at the room...oh-thats not going to work. Need to drop p-trap to get at stand pipe level, sink tail is too short and with longer one puts p-trap almost where it was.
If I cut the pipe coming out of wall might be able to 45ยฐ end toward sink. How the heck do I get in there to cut it?...
To add some perspective to hot water circulation - it is strictly convenience item and make no technical sense.
I build new house and in California I had to pay for Title 24 energy efficiency design.
Having tankless water heater on exterior wall on east side, the west side guest bathroom has about 80 feet of piping to it.
I measured and it took over 3 gallons of dumping cold water to get hot there.
Yet Title 24 will not allow me installation of 2nd heater on the bathroom wall as that would not be energy-efficient.
Water here cost less than 1 cent a gallon, while energy is expensive and circulating the hot water on 80' of piping would loose lot of energy.
I build new house and in California I had to pay for Title 24 energy efficiency design.
Having tankless water heater on exterior wall on east side, the west side guest bathroom has about 80 feet of piping to it.
I measured and it took over 3 gallons of dumping cold water to get hot there.
Yet Title 24 will not allow me installation of 2nd heater on the bathroom wall as that would not be energy-efficient.
Water here cost less than 1 cent a gallon, while energy is expensive and circulating the hot water on 80' of piping would loose lot of energy.
Added a circulating pump in bathroom to have 'instant' hot water. Part 3
Turn drain replacement/relocation...
turn adding an electronic timer...
Looking at timers, most needed more room than I have, were too elaborate, required plumbing into water lines or simply too expensive just to not hold a button for 10 seconds. (even though a challenge some mornings though mostly the counting part, 1001, 1002... )
And stumbled upon this small electronic timer...
Its tiny-would be perfect in limited space. Easily wired in between pump and momentary switch. Can be adjusted from seconds to hours. Basic intended use is to turn on pump and then off after a few seconds. I'm really curious to see its other functions.
Ordered-should be here in a few days so decided to pull switch from camper and prewire. Because I used a momentary switch decided to use a relay to make it & timer self latching. Push the momentary switch, it sends power to timer and timer sends power to pump AND to relay. Relay engages and sends unswitched power to timer keeping it powered when momentary released. When timer reaches programmed time cycle it shuts off power to pump & to relay, so no power used when off.
First I need a ground buss, there's nothing in bathroom to ground to.
I was using small wire that grounds water pump pilot to ground pump, but inadequate and now adding timer, relay, pilot (for timer setup)and since I'm here a light to see inside cabinet.
This is first iteration.
Prewired the switch to receive timer, wired in the relay. A is power to timer input E from momentary and/or relay. D is power out from timer to pump C, the small red branch is trigger relay. Once timer arrives its just staking on appropriate bullet, plug in and install.
The wiring went thru several iterations. Originally I added the red wire B as alternate constant power source to plug timer E into when setting up (so holding momentary for constant power not required and not cycling relay and pump during setup). Also the timer is set up by grounding its 2 set up wires, depending on function. It became apparent that locating and manually manipulating these wire inside cabinet would be difficult at best either to change power source for timer for setup or grounding the setup wires. So rewired.
Second iteration,
Added momentary DPDT setup switch that grounds timer setup wires as wanted (1 or both wires), red pilot shows output of timer and what its doing. Added to a plate to mount. Here I've finished setting up run time and function of timer and watching its out put- sending power for 10 seconds then shutting off. The LED panel light is powered by main water pump feed so controlled by the on/off toggle with water pump. (At some point I'll add a switch on door so light only on if door is open even though it only draws few milliamp).
Should mention this circuit, both LED pilot lamps, relay hold open & LED panel lamp shows 0.15 amp, the pump is rated at 1 amp. So that's less than 1.15 amp for 10 seconds to have instant hot water!
Then it changed again.
Not going into a lot of detail, if interested its on our home page to see how this morphed or study the timers documentation to see how it works. Though in the long run will be easier to use. Unfortunately lack of access in our truck campers bathroom cabinet and what I did to compensate is what detracted from the simplicity of this timer and its install. That and trying to describe making seem even more convoluted.
Basically final iteration I added a DPDT slide switch (above set up momentary) that either grounds pump or grounds setup switch. This takes pump out of loop when setting up timer and/or takes setup switch & wires out of loop when in normal run mode so cant inadvertently change setup. Point being no wire swapping, just flick a switch your either in run or setup. The timer is supposed to keep programming stored so once set up shouldn't have to mess with it unless I want to change pump run time. Then it will be a snap.
As I now have an used 'free' hot lead I'm going ahead and set it up the LED panel light. Cut a small block to mount the light, it will hang inside above the door. Glued and screwed the block to inside cabinet door frame reinforcement 1x2.
Remounted water pump switch, hung relay. Then removed- couldn't install the ground buss. This is what the camera can see-
Added a block to support top of setup plate.
Installed the ground buss, reinstalled the water pump switch plate. Plugged everything in, connected all the ground leads. Installed the setup switch plate, The timer is behind.
Turned on the main water pump switch. Wow light is nice. With more than a bit of apprehension pushed the momentary switch. Pump came on for 10 seconds and shut off. Who whooo.
Slide the slide switch over to set up mode and re setup timer using red led. Easy. Slide over to run, push the momentary pump comes on for 10 seconds and shuts off.
Though relating this part of the install could have been more like "I added a timer", might have been more clear but the timer itself is just slick and worth mentioning. I'm getting another to add to trucks auxiliary charge circuit. It will be set to delay for 15 minuets power to solenoid trigger wire. After starting truck I don't turn on aux charge or refer relay for while. Ensuring truck batteries stabilize (#1 priority) before sending power to camper. But sometimes I forget and the milks getting warm...This timer will make it automatic without changing existing switching abilities.
These little gizmos are well worth checking out if you have a need for a 12v timer. I just see a lot of possible uses for them.
Pump I used was an Atwood xxxx $15 (I cant recommend it)
(Replacement will be as mentioned earlier with 1/2" outlets and replumbed with flex lines. There are some out there designed specifically for hot water virtually same size about $20-30. )
Timer 3rdbrakeflasher.com was $15
Brass fittings about $15
1 momentary DPDT switch (setup) $5
LED pilot $3
Flair Pex fittings-$10
all the rest was stuff recycled (switches,plates light) or had on hand (wire/connectors shrink) maybe $15
So even going a bit overboard maybe $75ish. Over 2 week on/off again project to save maybe a quart of water a day? but HEY, over 4 days thats a couple of pots of coffee! Sticking my hands in HOT water first thing in the morning-you betcha. Plus light in cabinet, excuse to finally cleanup inside and make usable. Just a bonus.
Turn drain replacement/relocation...
turn adding an electronic timer...
Looking at timers, most needed more room than I have, were too elaborate, required plumbing into water lines or simply too expensive just to not hold a button for 10 seconds. (even though a challenge some mornings though mostly the counting part, 1001, 1002... )
And stumbled upon this small electronic timer...
Its tiny-would be perfect in limited space. Easily wired in between pump and momentary switch. Can be adjusted from seconds to hours. Basic intended use is to turn on pump and then off after a few seconds. I'm really curious to see its other functions.
Ordered-should be here in a few days so decided to pull switch from camper and prewire. Because I used a momentary switch decided to use a relay to make it & timer self latching. Push the momentary switch, it sends power to timer and timer sends power to pump AND to relay. Relay engages and sends unswitched power to timer keeping it powered when momentary released. When timer reaches programmed time cycle it shuts off power to pump & to relay, so no power used when off.
First I need a ground buss, there's nothing in bathroom to ground to.
I was using small wire that grounds water pump pilot to ground pump, but inadequate and now adding timer, relay, pilot (for timer setup)and since I'm here a light to see inside cabinet.
This is first iteration.
Prewired the switch to receive timer, wired in the relay. A is power to timer input E from momentary and/or relay. D is power out from timer to pump C, the small red branch is trigger relay. Once timer arrives its just staking on appropriate bullet, plug in and install.
The wiring went thru several iterations. Originally I added the red wire B as alternate constant power source to plug timer E into when setting up (so holding momentary for constant power not required and not cycling relay and pump during setup). Also the timer is set up by grounding its 2 set up wires, depending on function. It became apparent that locating and manually manipulating these wire inside cabinet would be difficult at best either to change power source for timer for setup or grounding the setup wires. So rewired.
Second iteration,
Added momentary DPDT setup switch that grounds timer setup wires as wanted (1 or both wires), red pilot shows output of timer and what its doing. Added to a plate to mount. Here I've finished setting up run time and function of timer and watching its out put- sending power for 10 seconds then shutting off. The LED panel light is powered by main water pump feed so controlled by the on/off toggle with water pump. (At some point I'll add a switch on door so light only on if door is open even though it only draws few milliamp).
Should mention this circuit, both LED pilot lamps, relay hold open & LED panel lamp shows 0.15 amp, the pump is rated at 1 amp. So that's less than 1.15 amp for 10 seconds to have instant hot water!
Then it changed again.
Not going into a lot of detail, if interested its on our home page to see how this morphed or study the timers documentation to see how it works. Though in the long run will be easier to use. Unfortunately lack of access in our truck campers bathroom cabinet and what I did to compensate is what detracted from the simplicity of this timer and its install. That and trying to describe making seem even more convoluted.
Basically final iteration I added a DPDT slide switch (above set up momentary) that either grounds pump or grounds setup switch. This takes pump out of loop when setting up timer and/or takes setup switch & wires out of loop when in normal run mode so cant inadvertently change setup. Point being no wire swapping, just flick a switch your either in run or setup. The timer is supposed to keep programming stored so once set up shouldn't have to mess with it unless I want to change pump run time. Then it will be a snap.
As I now have an used 'free' hot lead I'm going ahead and set it up the LED panel light. Cut a small block to mount the light, it will hang inside above the door. Glued and screwed the block to inside cabinet door frame reinforcement 1x2.
Remounted water pump switch, hung relay. Then removed- couldn't install the ground buss. This is what the camera can see-
Added a block to support top of setup plate.
Installed the ground buss, reinstalled the water pump switch plate. Plugged everything in, connected all the ground leads. Installed the setup switch plate, The timer is behind.
Turned on the main water pump switch. Wow light is nice. With more than a bit of apprehension pushed the momentary switch. Pump came on for 10 seconds and shut off. Who whooo.
Slide the slide switch over to set up mode and re setup timer using red led. Easy. Slide over to run, push the momentary pump comes on for 10 seconds and shuts off.
Though relating this part of the install could have been more like "I added a timer", might have been more clear but the timer itself is just slick and worth mentioning. I'm getting another to add to trucks auxiliary charge circuit. It will be set to delay for 15 minuets power to solenoid trigger wire. After starting truck I don't turn on aux charge or refer relay for while. Ensuring truck batteries stabilize (#1 priority) before sending power to camper. But sometimes I forget and the milks getting warm...This timer will make it automatic without changing existing switching abilities.
These little gizmos are well worth checking out if you have a need for a 12v timer. I just see a lot of possible uses for them.
Pump I used was an Atwood xxxx $15 (I cant recommend it)
(Replacement will be as mentioned earlier with 1/2" outlets and replumbed with flex lines. There are some out there designed specifically for hot water virtually same size about $20-30. )
Timer 3rdbrakeflasher.com was $15
Brass fittings about $15
1 momentary DPDT switch (setup) $5
LED pilot $3
Flair Pex fittings-$10
all the rest was stuff recycled (switches,plates light) or had on hand (wire/connectors shrink) maybe $15
So even going a bit overboard maybe $75ish. Over 2 week on/off again project to save maybe a quart of water a day? but HEY, over 4 days thats a couple of pots of coffee! Sticking my hands in HOT water first thing in the morning-you betcha. Plus light in cabinet, excuse to finally cleanup inside and make usable. Just a bonus.
Isn't single check valve allowing for cold water to enter hot water pipe with pressure difference?
FIY you can buy sensor valve that will prevent it and will allow installing circulating pump anywhere on the line.
It is pricey, but what in RV isn't ?
sensor valve
FIY you can buy sensor valve that will prevent it and will allow installing circulating pump anywhere on the line.
It is pricey, but what in RV isn't ?
sensor valve
Added a circulating pump in bathroom to have 'instant' hot water. Part2
Turn drain replacement/relocation...
So.. How the heck do I get in there to cut it?
Oscillating saw!
Took a few blade reorientations, stopping to let cool but cut. Played with the 45ยฐ ell. Points right at drain, not enough room for trap. Then realized with 2 90ยฐs I could dogleg over & behind....
Spinning ells around dry took quite a bit to find position where everything cleared. Its tight. I have exactly 1/8" between tail nut, flex & PEX tee nuts and the lines. To glue in at that position I marked and crossed my fingers- Lucky, started off a few degrees then slight twist as pushing in. Luck.
Was going to use 2 vent ells as they are shorter due to space but the lower one is a street ell. Almost as short but has a much better sweep, should help keep clear and with flow as top one dumps.
Before connecting P-trap lined with reflectex- will help with radiated cold air- though not sealed but looks better. Well better than the primed cardboard added years ago to divide off all the cold dead air space.
Connected the new trap-nice! (I need to replace cold water flex line to faucet with longer one- its pushing line over hence the zip to keep in position)
Filled the sink couple of times and dumped to check for leaks. I was concerned with shorter tail drop and smaller line but it drains faster that it ever has?
Look at the room!-more than I hoped for. Why wasn't something like this done at factory or I guess better question is why installed as they had? Back to the pump...
Reinstalled the pump and lines. Much better fit. Recheck for leaks..so far so good.
This to us, after looking at this cabinet being blocked with the 1 1/2" drain after 14 years, is amazing.
Made a loose fitting false bottom.
To protect the wiring and plumbing on the floor and air space. I may and planned to make a 3 sided box to set inside frame.
One roundtoit done, one added.
I'm already looking for a timer to add to pump.. kinda awkward where momentary located to stand and hold.
Which leads to part 3
Turn drain replacement/relocation...
So.. How the heck do I get in there to cut it?
Oscillating saw!
Took a few blade reorientations, stopping to let cool but cut. Played with the 45ยฐ ell. Points right at drain, not enough room for trap. Then realized with 2 90ยฐs I could dogleg over & behind....
Spinning ells around dry took quite a bit to find position where everything cleared. Its tight. I have exactly 1/8" between tail nut, flex & PEX tee nuts and the lines. To glue in at that position I marked and crossed my fingers- Lucky, started off a few degrees then slight twist as pushing in. Luck.
Was going to use 2 vent ells as they are shorter due to space but the lower one is a street ell. Almost as short but has a much better sweep, should help keep clear and with flow as top one dumps.
Before connecting P-trap lined with reflectex- will help with radiated cold air- though not sealed but looks better. Well better than the primed cardboard added years ago to divide off all the cold dead air space.
Connected the new trap-nice! (I need to replace cold water flex line to faucet with longer one- its pushing line over hence the zip to keep in position)
Filled the sink couple of times and dumped to check for leaks. I was concerned with shorter tail drop and smaller line but it drains faster that it ever has?
Look at the room!-more than I hoped for. Why wasn't something like this done at factory or I guess better question is why installed as they had? Back to the pump...
Reinstalled the pump and lines. Much better fit. Recheck for leaks..so far so good.
This to us, after looking at this cabinet being blocked with the 1 1/2" drain after 14 years, is amazing.
Made a loose fitting false bottom.
To protect the wiring and plumbing on the floor and air space. I may and planned to make a 3 sided box to set inside frame.
One roundtoit done, one added.
I'm already looking for a timer to add to pump.. kinda awkward where momentary located to stand and hold.
Which leads to part 3
