Adj. Air Shocks?

[lakebum]

Just took delivery of 37' travel trailer and installed an Equal-i-zer e4 hitch. My truck still squats a little and I want to level it out.

I was thinking some adjustable air shocks, is that the right path to take and which ones are the best?

I also have a leveling kit that was installed on the front to level it out back when I purchased truck

2015 GMC Sierra with 2017 Torque T32

[a308hunter]

Make sure the hitch is adjusted correctly. When I bought my TT the dealer installed and adjusted the hitch for me. The problem was, that was before we "moved in". Now the weight is changed and time to readjust the hitch. I also installed Timbren suspension kits on the front and rear of my Ram 1500. BIG difference on sway and stability. Read about them at etrailer.com. They work when weight is applied and your suspension is stock when not loaded. No air leaks either.

[Passin_Thru]

I have airshocks on the front of my pickup and Airlift Airbags on the back. I just went from Va to N NY this week and back and my wife said it wasn't too bad a ride although Pa had so many orange barrels out I thought they had stole all the ones from the other states and Canada.

[beemerphile1]

One, get rid of the leveling kit, trucks are built like they are for a reason.

Second, you need a lot more truck.

[carringb]

Sorry, I just looked at the specs, and you are even more OVERLOADED than I first suspected.

The Torque T32 has a DRY weight of 9500 pounds. Actual empty weight is probably at least 1,000 pounds more than that. And 1200 pounds is the DRY tongue weight. Actual empty tongue weight is probably at least 1,400 pounds.

Finally, GVWR of the trailer is 14,000 pounds. This is skirting 1-ton territory.

Sorry the dealer misled you into thinking you can safely tow that trailer. You can't You are overloaded by every metric.

[lakebum]

afidel wrote:
No it's not, crew cab 4WD with max trailering package and the 6.2 is limited to 11,700lb so if you've got much at all in it you're overloaded.
Link

My trailer weight is 9500#

[afidel]

No it's not, crew cab 4WD with max trailering package and the 6.2 is limited to 11,700lb so if you've got much at all in it you're overloaded.
Link

[Community Alumni]

What does the yellow sticker on the c-post state as total capacity including passengers and load?

...Eric

[lakebum]

carringb wrote:

APT wrote:
Remove the front leveling kit.

Follow steps 6+ for adjustment of the EQ.

Which WD bars do you have? I expect you want over 1200 pound, 1500 maybe?

Is that a Sierra 1500?

I keep wondering too. Wheels look like 1500 wheels.

There's no way that trailer should be on any road behind a 1500. I bet actual tongue weight wet is well over 1500 pounds. That toy hauler is not light.

Tongue weight is 1200# and GRVW is 14,000# well within the limits, empty it is at 9500# and I have the 6.2 engine and the All Terrain edition

[carringb]

APT wrote:
Remove the front leveling kit.

Follow steps 6+ for adjustment of the EQ.

Which WD bars do you have? I expect you want over 1200 pound, 1500 maybe?

Is that a Sierra 1500?

I keep wondering too. Wheels look like 1500 wheels.

There's no way that trailer should be on any road behind a 1500. I bet actual tongue weight wet is well over 1500 pounds. That toy hauler is not light.

[APT]

Remove the front leveling kit.

Follow steps 6+ for adjustment of the EQ.

Which WD bars do you have? I expect you want over 1200 pound, 1500 maybe?

Is that a Sierra 1500?

[Ron3rd]

To the OP, as I mentioned, download the manual and follow the procedure. First, with the trailer un-hitched, you take measurements front and rear, then follow the instructions to get your front and rear "squat" within a certain range. Your truck is way too high in the front, and it looks like your trailer "might" be too high in the nose too.

Like the other member said, dealers are often the culprit and don't have a clue with this type of hitch.

[Community Alumni]

lakebum wrote:
....


I really think I did not get the proper equipment, they have my ball at the highest level they can get on my truck, with the truck sitting level and the camper sitting level, truck ball is still about 2" below trailer tongue before being connected.

You might need a longer shank hitch with more adjustment holes. That's what I needed on mine. The other option is to turn the shank upside down to allow the ball to be higher.

This is a quote from the manual;
"In some cases, the shank may need to be turned upward, or a specialty length shank may be needed so that the ball can be placed at the correct height. "

... Eric

[ktmrfs]

lakebum wrote:

CarnationSailor wrote:

PackerBacker wrote:


...

My measurement correction is at the front fender of the truck through the center of the wheel to the ground. It should be the same after hitching as before hitching once the WD bars are installed.

X2

And when you have brought the front fender back to the unloaded height, your trailer may or may not be level in which case you need to adjust the hitch itself (move to a different hole in the hitch shank).

Thanks for all the input. I do not see any adjustment for the hitch, it was installed by the RV dealer and the only tweaking he did was to keep inserting washers to make the ball actually lean toward the trailer when he claimed would throw more weight to the camper and raise the truck bumper. The E4 bars do not have a chain, they set up on top of a bracket.

I really think I did not get the proper equipment, they have my ball at the highest level they can get on my truck, with the truck sitting level and the camper sitting level, truck ball is still about 2" below trailer tongue before being connected.

You gave us the best clue yet. hitch set up by the dealer. I know many fellow campers, myself included that have intial set up by the dealer, and NONE were set up anywhere near correctly. some not even with the trailer empty, NONE once the trailer was loaded up and ready to go. ALL had way less bar tension that it should have had, a few even had inadequate bars.
1) they are usually set up with a completely unloaded trailer.


My advice, look at the stickies on the forum and read the hitch instructions untill you understand how the hitch operates and what each element of the setup does.

Then go out and check, and most likely adjust the hitch as it should be. Then you'll likely be way happier.

In my case they kept saying 1200lbs bars will be fine. I kept saying NO, I need the 1700lb bars, tongue will be near 1400 or 1500lbs when it is loaded with water and 4 batteries and stuff in the trailer.

I bought the 1700lb setup, and yup, after configuring checking with a sherline scale, my 850lb empty tongue weight was now 1400-1500 lbs loaded tongue weight.

And as you may guess, the setup was not to far off with the unloaded tongue, but as soon as we added 2 batteries and loaded the trailer up, the setup was WAY off and I had to readjust.

Glad I got the 1700lb setup.

[Ron3rd]

Long time Equalizer user here and can tell you your hitch is not set up correctly. The supplied instructions will explain the procedure