Another Blue OX Sway Pro question and concern

[ajk170]

Close-up of Blue Ox Sway ProI'm new to the forum but have had my TT (2015 Keystone Outback 316RL) for the past 18 months and loving every minute of it. We use to tow it with a 2010 F150 5.4 (4x2) but upgraded to a 2013 F250 6.7 diesel (FX4). We upgraded the TV due to the overall weight being almost too much for the F150(Cat Scale showed our load on our way back from a an outing was 14.9k lbs. I think max GVW on the F150(4x2) was 15.2K).

Since this is our first TT I have nothing to base anything off of and we've only ever used the Blue Ox Sway pro. The TV is the only change. The 250 pulls it like there's nothing there (which is nice) but my concern is the proper set-up of the Sway Pro. Not the installation (that's seems fine) but the link tension and how much sag should be on the rear end of the truck. I included a pic to show what we look like, although this is not fully out loaded so some weight is missing from the truck bed.

You'll also notice the bars barely flex (1500# bars)but I spoke to Blue Ox when we first got it and they said it would be fine. So I trust the manufacturer and really don't want to buy new bars.

I use to have the hitched flipped with the "long end" up but reversing it allowed me to drop a little lower to get the trailer more "nose down". Although the picture suggests it's actually level.

So, does this look ok? I realize that this is a math problem and 12% of the trailer weight should be on the bumper and I should measure the front bumper before and after I'm hitched (I think I have that right) and I should stop at a scale the next time we have it out but it doesn't seem to matter what I do, I can't level out the F250 nor could I do it when we had the F150 and I even put spring helpers on the F150!

Thank you all for the help and insight- hopefully I'm paranoid.
F250 w/Outback 2015 316RL and Blue OX Swaypro w/1500# bars

[Community Alumni]

The bars can flex a whole bunch more than that. I typically run more flex than that. They're not rigid and designed to flex quite a bit. According to Blue Ox, you can use as many links as you need and it will not damage the bars. If you need to transfer more weight, use more links.

Get across a CAT scale to find out if you're actually carrying too much weight back there or if it's just suspension sag, which seems to be a common complaint with the 250's. If it's just the suspension then some suspension aids like rubber springs or air bags can easily correct the level.

[ajk170]

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate correcting the record about the distance it should move. I clearly need to read my manual. Downtheroad/Hannibalthanks for taking a look and helping to confirm it at least looks good. Hannibal, I appreciate the details on how to dial-it in if I want it to get better than what it looks like now.

I'm happy with the handeling and how smooth she feels(now) this helps me rest easier hearing others that know more than I do about TT and TVs can look at my rig and not see anything glaring that could be wrong!

[Hannibal]

We have around 850-900~lbs of tongue weight on our trailer with full tanks and all our stuff in the pass through and under the bed and closets. The front of our truck doesn't change with just a ball and no WD. I went back and looked at the pics I took of it and the rear settles 2" with no WD. With the bars on our Reese HP trunion style hitch, I bring it back up 1" and it tows great. How much rise are you getting on the front and how much does the rear settle without the bars? Your rig looks fine to me and if it tows well, I'd be happy but if you're looking for perfectly level, you need to measure the coupler height with the trailer level on level ground. Then adjust the hitch height to an inch or two higher on the empty truck. If the trailer settles the truck down 3" without the bars and you bring it back up 1.5" with the bars, the ball needs to be 1.5"~ higher than the coupler when unhitched. This should bring the front of the truck back to within .5" of it's original height. I'm having a hard time imagining the front of a 6.7L F250 would rise more than that without the bars. Too much tension on the bars can cause steering issues and it can feel a little squirrely.

[downtheroad]

I'm a Blue Ox user also with 1500 lb bars.
Your set up looks very good to me. My bars look to have about the same flex as yours...and we have similar weight trailers and similar trucks.

How does it tow in a variety of conditions? That's the real test.

[Lynnmor]

westend wrote:
I think Ford suggests that when using a weight distributing hitch, the front wheel well should be returned to 1/2" higher than when unweighted.

This is not correct, never does it say 1/2" it is to be returned half way between loaded and unloaded.

See page 275 of your Owners Manual.
Manual

[ajk170]

So this may seem dumb, but to redistribute the weight back to the front axle, I should tighten the bars more and maybe drop the hitch lower?

[ajk170]

Ok, I think I got the picture issue fixed

[ajk170]

Westend- thanks,, issues with the posting of images. That's what I understood as well (the recommended Ford guidance on weight distro) but mine is clearly exceeding the 1/2". Does this suggest that I'm not putting enough tension on the bars or I still have the hichball too high? I've certainly read a lot about people having sway issues due to the bars having too much tension.

[westend]

I think Ford suggests that when using a weight distributing hitch, the front wheel well should be returned to 1/2" higher than when unweighted.

With 1500 lb bars and the assumed tongue weight of the trailer, you should be able to distribute the weight back onto the front axle.

BTW, I don't see an image of your rig.