Axle flip question for those who have done it.

[scottykrug]

After reading past posts on flipping axles and discussing it with the DW, we have decided to go this direction. We (the DW 😉 currently has to run along side) have to place 2x12s under the wheels to get our rig over a low spot in our back yard. The spare drags in the gravel which is a good thing as IT protects the black water plumbing but not good for the tire.

My question...... as I will be removing bolts from the suspension is there anything else I should need to replace? Some background on that question... this spring I repacked the bearings/adjusted the brakes. In prep, I ordered new seals and had a fresh pile of cotter pins only to find out that lippert uses this weird flat washer with a tang to lock the castle nut (impossible to find in town). Trying to avoid this logistical headache.

I would love to replace all the suspension hardware with wet bolts but funding is not in the works (have my own personal sequester going). Are there any commonly replaceable items that will need to be changed out during this process? Just trying to get stuff in hand before work commences. Will be ordering the 3" kit from Dexter and will have plenty of cribbing to support the frame of the trailer.

Thank you in advance.

Scooter

[Huntindog]

canoe on top wrote:
You don't have to remove the brake drums. Flipping the axles does not mean turning the axles upside down. It means moving the spring mount from the bottom of the axle to the top. Since the axles have camber, they are higher in the middle than the ends, the axle must stay exactly like it is. Only the springs change position.

The camber is built into the axles to compensate for weight. When weight is applied, the axle straightens some. If you turn the axle upside down, you will have reverse camber and your wheels will angle in at the top and wear your tires out rather quickly.

You weld spring perches on the top of the axle like DJ said. (I think Dexter may even have a bolt on spring perch kit?) You then drop the axles, remove the U bolts and the springs, (generally, you will need new new U bolts)place the springs on top of the new perches install the new U bolts and remount the springs in the shackles and equalizers.

As was said, it's a good time to look at shackles and bushings since you have them apart. The plastic bushings are cheap and easy to replace. Greasable shackle bolts are a good upgrade if you remember to grease them.

This will lift your TT from 3 to 5 inches usually requiring the addition of a folding step at the bottom of the steps to the entry door. You might also want to cut four 4X4" blocks to throw under the stabilizers to make up for the added height.

This is correct Dexter does have a bolt on kit if welding is a problem for you.

[colliehauler]

Canoe on top has told you the correct way to flip an axle. I did it on one of my low trailers.

[canoe_on_top]

You don't have to remove the brake drums. Flipping the axles does not mean turning the axles upside down. It means moving the spring mount from the bottom of the axle to the top. Since the axles have camber, they are higher in the middle than the ends, the axle must stay exactly like it is. Only the springs change position.

The camber is built into the axles to compensate for weight. When weight is applied, the axle straightens some. If you turn the axle upside down, you will have reverse camber and your wheels will angle in at the top and wear your tires out rather quickly.

You weld spring perches on the top of the axle like DJ said. (I think Dexter may even have a bolt on spring perch kit?) You then drop the axles, remove the U bolts and the springs, (generally, you will need new new U bolts)place the springs on top of the new perches install the new U bolts and remount the springs in the shackles and equalizers.

As was said, it's a good time to look at shackles and bushings since you have them apart. The plastic bushings are cheap and easy to replace. Greasable shackle bolts are a good upgrade if you remember to grease them.

This will lift your TT from 3 to 5 inches usually requiring the addition of a folding step at the bottom of the steps to the entry door. You might also want to cut four 4X4" blocks to throw under the stabilizers to make up for the added height.

[jerem0621]

~DJ~ wrote:
You will need to weld new spring perches on top of the axle.

I am not sure that the OP is planning on doing this. Sounds like they are removing the brake drum assemblies, unbolt the axles, flip the whole thing and bolt the springs on the top of the axles.

Reinstall the brake assemblies.

Maybe I am missing something?

Thanks!

[scottykrug]

Let us know how it goes! I plan on doing it within the next couple of months when summer winds down. Got both the flip kit and the wet bolt kit as suggested.

[wobly]

Doing this next Friday.

[_DJ_1]

You will need to weld new spring perches on top of the axle.

[GMT830]

So the shackle and hanger bolts, not the u bolts

[Beachums]

GMT830 wrote:
What are wet bolts?

Bolts that have a cavity in them that you can grease, which of course reduces noise and wear.

[GMT830]

What are wet bolts?

[scottykrug]

no creaks and moans as you pull into a campground

I like the sound (or lack thereof) of that!

[Jerry9n]

I have Lippert axles and put on the Dexter wet bolt, and rubber equalizer with no problems. It takes time. Just follow the posts on the sticky and you'll be fine. Once you put on the new bolts, heaver links, and equalizer, you'll wonder how they ever got by with the standard stuff. By product is no creaks and moans as you pull into a campground.

[scottykrug]

LOL, my fear is that she will one day call it enough and leave me to backing and placing the lumber 8D. Options, that was what I was looking for. Thank you all for the info. Snowman, I will have to take out at least one set of bolts to get the axle on the bottom side of the spring and since I am doing that it would be a good time to inspect and remove all hardware. Barney's info backs that up and shows where to look for parts that need replacing. That $100 kit looks like the ticket. Lippert has all that stuff on their site, but is less than organized in it's display. I tried to figure out what lock washer to buy for my repack and even after talking to their CS, I was just as confused as she was. Pictures are worth a thousand words and Dexter does a good job presenting their product.

One last question, being that I have a Lippert axle, is there a problem using the Dexter wet bolt kit as long as the dimensions add up? (bolt and shackle length) Don't want to break some law of the universe (like removing pillow tags).

[profdant139]

Or else just buy DW a gym membership, so she can more easily run alongside and lift that heavy lumber?? 😉