Bolts Failing on Equalizer Hitch

[wgriswold]

I have an Equalizer Hitch with 1400 lb bars. Today I replaced the third pair of bolts and nuts that attach the head to the shank They are grade 8, 3/4" in diameter and 5" long. The threads failed on the bolt and the nut had some damage but not as bad. The first time I had to cut off the failed bolt. This time I was able to get it off with lots of WD40.

The directions say to torque these bolts to 420 ft-lbs (see edit) and I found a table that confirms this value. I do this by putting a socket and breaker bar on the nut and then a pipe over the breaker bar. I stand at 2 feet on the pipe and since I weigh 208 lbs that should be about the right torque.

So, why are my bolts failing? Has anyone else had this problem?

Edit: The torque for these bolts is 320 Ft-lbs. I confused the torque for the ball with the torque for the bolts.

[nctrailboss]

A good 1/2 inch drive impact wrench,and hit with about 8 uga-duga's....

[Passin_Thru]

Buy Titanium W5 Aircraft Bolts. Won't fail. Using a calibrated torque wrench is the only way not just adequately rated. Annual calibration is required and use torque tables. Or, tighten it til it strips and go 1/2 turn more.

[Fordlover]

I dare say several of the people in this thread would disapprove of how torque wrenches are commonly calibrated. Hint: known weight over measured distance.

[Jebby14]

Huntindog wrote:

SoundGuy wrote:

jerem0621 wrote:
Time for a new tool! 600 lb ft Tq Wrench!

🙂

Therein lies the rub and is why I'll probably not own another Equal-i-zer again. Unfortunate, because the EQ performs well once properly adjusted but it took me at least a half dozen tries to get mine properly set up, the problem being that because head angle is set by head washers those darned shank bolts had to be loosened, removed, and retorqued each time, and for that I required a torque wrench capable of 320 ft-lbs, a tool I didn't own but had to borrow from a friend each time. I later changed tow vehicles and had to go through the entire process all over again ... sure was a PITA, 'though once properly set up it did always perform well, albeit with a fair amount of noise. Now that other systems are available that also perform well but which don't use washers to set the head angle or those like the Blue Ox Sway Pro that have a fixed head and don't require the use of a torque wrench I don't own it I doubt I'd ever buy another Equal-i-zer.

Simple fix for me. DW bought me a 3/4" drive torque wrench. I promptly semi retired my 1/2" drive wrenches. Torquing the wheels on my dually is sooo much easier now.

Not to mention the stares I get from the neighbors when they see me out in the the drive with that massive tool.

best comment so far (not that there is anything untrue about weight x distance to figure out a torque. I just played this game on the weekend. not confident I hit the 450 lbs on my ball so going to bring it to work. fairly sure I hit the 250 on the cross bolts. also doubt it will be a problem is the crush washer is infact collapsed not that id recommend running lose.

[wgriswold]

"It may vary with different weight hitches, but my 6K-14K instructions state.

“Use your tongue jack to lift the trailer and tow vehicle, and disconnect the spring arms. Lower the tongue jack and uncouple the trailer from the tow vehicle. Pull the tow vehicle forward a few feet to give yourself working room to tighten the hitch bolts.

Remove the pins and clips from the spring arms, and remove the spring arms from the hitch head. Remove the hitch pin and clip. Slide the hitch head and shank from the receiver, turn the assembly upside-down, and place it back into the receiver tube. Replace the hitch pin to secure it temporarily.

Use the torque wrench to tighten both 3/4” shank bolts to 320 ft-lbs.”

This is from my instructions:

Once you have achieved the correct weight distribution set-up, the angle set bolt and the 3/4” bolts that hold the hitch head to the adjustable shank should be tightened securely. This should be done while the hitch is attached and distributing weight to take any play out of the assembly.

First, tighten the angle set bolt securely and then tighten the 3/4” shank bolts with a torque wrench to 320 ft/lbs of torque. DO NOT over-tighten these bolts.

I just went to the Equalizer site and your directions are the current ones. I will have to call and see if I can use them. It would be much easier to torque with the bars out of the way.

Edit: I called Equalizer and was told that the new instructions could be used with the older hitches.

[Huntindog]

Usually one with such an interest in being a mechanical authority buys the tools necessary to actually do the job.
A mechanic without the tools..... is no mechanic.

[joshuajim]

wgriswold wrote:

mike-s wrote:

SoundGuy wrote:
those darned shank bolts had to be loosened, removed, and retorqued each time

No, they don't. You set it up statically. No need to fully torque each time while adjusting, just enough that things aren't loose. And it can't move much - it's pretty much trapped with the stud/washers on the top and the bolt on the bottom. Once you get it setup, then you torque it so you can drive down the road safely. And, you can drive somewhere (with no trailer) to get it torqued properly if need be.

I read the instructions carefully yesterday because of this thread. The instructions agree with the first sentence of this quote. The last sentence is wrong. The instructions say to torque with the WD bars in place, so the trailer must be connected to the vehicle.

It may vary with different weight hitches, but my 6K-14K instructions state.

“Use your tongue jack to lift the trailer and tow vehicle, and disconnect the spring arms. Lower the tongue jack and uncouple the trailer from the tow vehicle. Pull the tow vehicle forward a few feet to give yourself working room to tighten the hitch bolts.

Remove the pins and clips from the spring arms, and remove the spring arms from the hitch head. Remove the hitch pin and clip. Slide the hitch head and shank from the receiver, turn the assembly upside-down, and place it back into the receiver tube. Replace the hitch pin to secure it temporarily.

Use the torque wrench to tighten both 3/4” shank bolts to 320 ft-lbs.”

[wgriswold]

mike-s wrote:

SoundGuy wrote:
those darned shank bolts had to be loosened, removed, and retorqued each time

No, they don't. You set it up statically. No need to fully torque each time while adjusting, just enough that things aren't loose. And it can't move much - it's pretty much trapped with the stud/washers on the top and the bolt on the bottom. Once you get it setup, then you torque it so you can drive down the road safely. And, you can drive somewhere (with no trailer) to get it torqued properly if need be.

I read the instructions carefully yesterday because of this thread. The instructions agree with the first sentence of this quote. The last sentence is wrong. The instructions say to torque with the WD bars in place, so the trailer must be connected to the vehicle.

[SoundGuy]

SoundGuy wrote:
Disagree completely, the only way to know for a fact that your Equal-i-zer is properly set up for both the TV and trailer is to take the combination for a tow, over a variety of road surfaces, both wet and dry, and at varying speeds to see how it behaves ... and it will behave differently, the recourse being to take it apart yet again and reset those head washers until you get the system functioning as you believe it should, and that does mean re-torquing those head bolts each time. BTDT many times, it does make a difference.

mike-s wrote:
Well then, you just need to buy the proper tools.

Easy to say when you're not paying the bill. :R As I mentioned previously I got lucky because a friend happened to own a 600 ft/lb rated torque wrench which I was able to borrow. :B However, most prospective Equal-i-zer owners would not have this advantage and the alternative of buying one of this size is quite expensive ... as an example, here in Canada a 600 ft/lb torque wrench would easily cost $300+ to well over $1000 Cdn, which is obviously a ridiculous investment for a tool that's only going to be used a few times. It stands to reason therefore that WD systems that require a much less costly torque wrench rated to just 250 ft/lbs makes for a much more sensible investment. Having owned an Equal-i-zer myself for several years and having been through this process multiple times this is the one major Achilles Heel of the older Equal-i-zer design - works well once properly set up, but that's difficult when one doesn't have an appropriately rated torque wrench readily available ... and most don't. 😞

[SoundGuy]

BarneyS wrote:
It is not just the Equal-i-zer hitch that requires those torque numbers. Most hitches manufacturers, other than a select few, require the bolts for the hitch head and the ball to be torqued to almost the same numbers.

Not sure what "most" would mean as there are so many WD systems available on the market today and each has it's own specific requirements for correct installation. The Blue Ox Sway Pro, as an example, requires a torque wrench capable of 257 ft-lbs and since those rated to 250 ft-lbs are quite common and not that expensive this is much easier for most owners to achieve. Second point - unlike the Equal-i-zer the Sway Pro has a fixed head with a fixed head angle, therefore there's no need to install or remove head washers as there is with the Equal-i-zer. In other words, installation is MUCH easier as there's so little involved in installing a Sway Pro correctly.

[BarneyS]

It is not just the Equal-i-zer hitch that requires those torque numbers. Most hitches manufacturers, other than a select few, require the bolts for the hitch head and the ball to be torqued to almost the same numbers.
Barney

[mike-s]

SoundGuy wrote:
Disagree completely, the only way to know for a fact that your Equal-i-zer is properly set up for both the TV and trailer is to take the combination for a tow, over a variety of road surfaces, both wet and dry, and at varying speeds to see how it behaves ... and it will behave differently, the recourse being to take it apart yet again and reset those head washers until you get the system functioning as you believe it should, and that does mean re-torquing those head bolts each time. BTDT many times, it does make a difference.

Well then, you just need to buy the proper tools.

[SoundGuy]

SoundGuy wrote:
those darned shank bolts had to be loosened, removed, and retorqued each time

mike-s wrote:
No, they don't. You set it up statically. No need to fully torque each time while adjusting, just enough that things aren't loose. And it can't move much - it's pretty much trapped with the stud/washers on the top and the bolt on the bottom. Once you get it setup, then you torque it so you can drive down the road safely. And, you can drive somewhere (with no trailer) to get it torqued properly if need be.

SoundGuy wrote:
Yes, they do, for as you said yourself those shank bolts have to be correctly torqued before heading down the road to test set up. BTDT myself more times than I'd ever care to repeat. :R

mike-s wrote:
Whoosh. You don't have to "head down the road to test setup", you can do the entire setup on any level spot. The instructions even come right out and say it: "The shank bolts will be fully tightened at the end of the set up and adjustment process."

Disagree completely, the only way to know for a fact that your Equal-i-zer is properly set up for both the TV and trailer is to take the combination for a tow, over a variety of road surfaces, both wet and dry, and at varying speeds to see how it behaves ... and it will behave differently, the recourse being to take it apart yet again and reset those head washers until you get the system functioning as you believe it should, and that does mean re-torquing those head bolts each time. BTDT many times, it does make a difference.

[mike-s]

SoundGuy wrote:

SoundGuy wrote:
those darned shank bolts had to be loosened, removed, and retorqued each time

mike-s wrote:
No, they don't. You set it up statically. No need to fully torque each time while adjusting, just enough that things aren't loose. And it can't move much - it's pretty much trapped with the stud/washers on the top and the bolt on the bottom. Once you get it setup, then you torque it so you can drive down the road safely. And, you can drive somewhere (with no trailer) to get it torqued properly if need be.

Yes, they do, for as you said yourself those shank bolts have to be correctly torqued before heading down the road to test set up. BTDT myself more times than I'd ever care to repeat. :R

Whoosh. You don't have to "head down the road to test setup", you can do the entire setup on any level spot. The instructions even come right out and say it: "The shank bolts will be fully tightened at the end of the set up and adjustment process."

[SoundGuy]

SoundGuy wrote:
those darned shank bolts had to be loosened, removed, and retorqued each time

mike-s wrote:
No, they don't. You set it up statically. No need to fully torque each time while adjusting, just enough that things aren't loose. And it can't move much - it's pretty much trapped with the stud/washers on the top and the bolt on the bottom. Once you get it setup, then you torque it so you can drive down the road safely. And, you can drive somewhere (with no trailer) to get it torqued properly if need be.

Yes, they do, for as you said yourself those shank bolts have to be correctly torqued before heading down the road to test set up. BTDT myself more times than I'd ever care to repeat. :R