breakaway switch and cable

[Cinderelle]

Hello - I am fairly new to this and after about 15 trips in my little RV I realized I wasn't hooking up the breakaway cable as it was broken and zip tied through my safety chains. I've ordered a new cable. My RV has a switch installed and through all my research I learned that I need to check the battery. I cannot find a battery - I crawled underneath and looked all over. Does the breakaway switch have to have it's own battery or is it possible to run off my 12V? Thanks in advance for your help. I have a 17 ft ECO by Skamper travel trailer. I tow with a Sequoia and have a brake controller installed in my TV.

[Bobbo]

budwich wrote:
wouldn't be better to list ones that do along with ones the don't. Anyways, I was seeking information, generalizations are less so.

The most direct way to get the information you seek is to say "I have brand XYZ brake controller. Does anyone know if that brand has a problem with the breakaway pin being pulled while still plugged into the tow vehicle?"

That does not require everyone in the known universe to provide you with the information on THEIR controller. And, it avoids "generalizations."

[drsteve]

I had the breakaway pin pull out inadvertently when leaving the dealer after they messed with the hitch, and my Prodigy P2 didn't care.

[budwich]

wouldn't be better to list ones that do along with ones the don't. Anyways, I was seeking information, generalizations are less so.

[Bobbo]

Unfortunately, unless someone wants to do a study, a generalization is all we have. We know some controllers are OK with it. We know some controllers are not. You pay your money, you take your chance. It is just so cheap and easy to unplug from the vehicle that I don't see the reason to risk it. YMMV

[budwich]

Might be a possibility. I guess it would be nice to have specifics of ones that are known to fail in this "mode". I personally have caused a "break away action" while connected to the TV plug because of poor "length take up" of the cable. No big deal, the trailer brakes locked up, got out, re-positioned the break away cabling / re attached things and continued the journey. Anyways, I was looking for more specifics on controllers as opposed to what I would consider a generalization.

[westend]

Could be that Tekonsha put a diode across the output of the P2 and current swapping won't fry it. Not all controllers are built the same.

[budwich]

no problem... since my controller (prodigy p2) doesn't list any warnings, I thought I was missing something.... especially since these types of controllers list all sorts of error codes for various conditions, it was definitely an "interesting statement".

[Bobbo]

Backfeeding 12v into the electronics of the brake controller can be a bad thing. Not all electronics appreciate having the current running backwards.

[Terryallan]

budwich wrote:
ok.... waiting

Thought I explained it Best I could. But for you I'll try again. Many, Meaning NOT all, Brake controlers will be destroyed IF you pull the breakaway cable out while the 7 pin / cord is conneced. Why? Could be it creates a short of some kind. Could be it shocks the controler. Could be the way some are wired in. I'm not sure. I just know it can happen. Seen it.

Now if you want to find out if it will fry yours. Hook up, and pull it out. Me. Not a chance I want to take. There are a lot of things I don't know how they work. But I know they do. Example. I don't know how 2 little wires carry all this internet stuff. But they do.

[mobeewan]

Or you can disconnect the 7 pin while hitched and the tow vehicle is running. Then pull the breakaway pin. Get in the TV and put it in drive, remove foot from break, the trailer should keep the TV and trailer from rolling. If they don't roll the trailer brakes have activated and trailer battery is supplying power. Along with pulling a tire and looking at the brakes on that wheel this is what they do at the vehicle inspection station to show the trailer brakes are working, the breakaway is working and the battery is working when I get my annual state trailer inspection.

If the trailer does move, the brake controller knobs or levers may need to be adjusted or there is a problem with the breakaway, the brakes or the breaking system.

[budwich]

ok.... waiting

[westend]

budwich wrote:
???? can you explain this?

I'll let TA explain the possible consequences but here may be a better solution for testing besides the mechanical test: Detach the tow vehicle from the umbilical cable. Your breakaway switch has a wire that leads into the circuit that powers the brakes when the pin is pulled. Basically, when the pin is pulled, two contacts in the little plastic case come together and complete the power circuit. If you can locate the power lead to the brakes, find the junction to the brake wiring and use either a hand held meter or a test light on the wire from the switch to the brake wiring. You should have 12+ volts on that wire when the pin is pulled.

A test light is <$5 at most auto parts stores. A hand held meter is < $10 at Harbor Freight or a bit more for better ones online or at the big-box stores. If you own an RV, you should have both.

Good luck with your break away switch. BTW, it's advisable to have a small fuse in the power supply to the switch. Most better switches have that included.

[budwich]

???? can you explain this?

[Terryallan]

Cinderelle wrote:
! The next thing I need to do is to test the switch. I read that with the wheels turning, pull the switch out and the brakes should lock. That makes me a bit nervous, is it safe to do this if I am towing the TT VERY slowly, to have someone pull the pin out? Or should I take it to a garage and have it put a lift for testing?

I can only say. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER. Pull the breakaway pin out while the 7 pin is connected to the TV. Brake controllers HATE that. Often times, It could fry the controller. It may not. but it might. Why take the chance? So unplug the 7 pin, and then pull the lanyard.