Camper Leveler

[prujak]

I saw these a couple months ago. After our last trip with trying to get wood planks under the one side to get the TT level I searched and found these easy to use trailer levelers. I contacted Anderson hitches who is the manufacturer. I ordered two of them for $39.99 each shipped to my home. Have not received them but are expecting them next week. I will give them a try the following week and let you know how they work. Just tired of messing with the wood.

http://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3604--camper-leveler.aspx

[sbaxter]

I prefer to dig out a little ground from the higher side to level it out.

Place a 2 x 4 (with blocks on the bottom of each end) across the space where the tires will sit, level on top, scrape the higher side down until level.

Then again, I only really park at my seasonal site, so it's mostly a one and done affair. 🙂

[mhardin]

Bisker wrote:

BillyW wrote:

Bisker wrote:

BarneyS wrote:
You should ALWAYS chock both sides of the trailer. Not doing so will invite a runaway tongue someday when you lift the coupler off the ball. Hope nobody is standing next to the tongue when that happens.:E

By the way, the chocks should be the first thing to go down after you arrive at the campsite and get the trailer level. Do this BEFORE you disconnect from the tow vehicle.
Barney

How do you get the trailer on leveling blocks if you already chocked the trailer?

Read Barney's statement carefully. 🙂

Actually saw that right after I posted, but if you do it after the trailer is level it's not the first thing you do. My apologies, I am a technical writer and I get called on stuff like this all the time, lol.

Ah, but you need to read it again! Barney doesn't say it's the first thing you do, He says "the chocks should be the first thing to go down after you arrive at the campsite and get the trailer level.

[Bisker]

BillyW wrote:

Bisker wrote:

BarneyS wrote:
You should ALWAYS chock both sides of the trailer. Not doing so will invite a runaway tongue someday when you lift the coupler off the ball. Hope nobody is standing next to the tongue when that happens.:E

By the way, the chocks should be the first thing to go down after you arrive at the campsite and get the trailer level. Do this BEFORE you disconnect from the tow vehicle.
Barney

How do you get the trailer on leveling blocks if you already chocked the trailer?

Read Barney's statement carefully. 🙂

Actually saw that right after I posted, but if you do it after the trailer is level it's not the first thing you do. My apologies, I am a technical writer and I get called on stuff like this all the time, lol.

[Tystevens]

Thanks for bringing this topic back up ... I watched the display video on these about 10 times while waiting for a tire to be repaired at Les Schwab. Looks like a good system, glad to hear they are working out. On my list of things to get ...

[TurnThePage]

Bisker wrote:

BarneyS wrote:
You should ALWAYS chock both sides of the trailer. Not doing so will invite a runaway tongue someday when you lift the coupler off the ball. Hope nobody is standing next to the tongue when that happens.:E

By the way, the chocks should be the first thing to go down after you arrive at the campsite and get the trailer level. Do this BEFORE you disconnect from the tow vehicle.
Barney

How do you get the trailer on leveling blocks if you already chocked the trailer?

Read Barney's statement carefully. 🙂

[Bisker]

BarneyS wrote:
You should ALWAYS chock both sides of the trailer. Not doing so will invite a runaway tongue someday when you lift the coupler off the ball. Hope nobody is standing next to the tongue when that happens.:E

By the way, the chocks should be the first thing to go down after you arrive at the campsite and get the trailer level. Do this BEFORE you disconnect from the tow vehicle.
Barney

How do you get the trailer on leveling blocks if you already chocked the trailer?

[ECones]

Thanks for the responses. I'm trying to come up with a reasonable way to chock it on my leveling block.

Yep. 25 pounds is heavy. I can lift it fine, but in the event my wife goes camping while I'm off gallivanting on the motorcycle, she could have problems with it. I planned to add handles to it to make it easier to carry, but I think I'll revisit the solution.

[BarneyS]

You should ALWAYS chock both sides of the trailer. Not doing so will invite a runaway tongue someday when you lift the coupler off the ball. Hope nobody is standing next to the tongue when that happens.:E

By the way, the chocks should be the first thing to go down after you arrive at the campsite and get the trailer level. Do this BEFORE you disconnect from the tow vehicle.
Barney

[wannavolunteerF]

I bought the orange ones, because of the weight.. and hopefully not having to get in out a dozen times.. the platforms like ECONES shows are great, but 25 pounds and that's dry.. wet would be more than I want to pick up..

You asked about chocking.. if you get rubber chocks, you can wedge them in front or back of the tire on blocks too.. I trust my rubber chocks more than plastic.. may even try them with the arc part of my new plastic levelers.

[dbucher]

looks pretty cool of coarse I like STUFF

[poppin_fresh]

If you chock correctly, I am of the opinion that one side is ok.

The problem I see is that people just kick a chock under the low side of the wheel and call it good. In reality you want to chock the front and back of the tire, and in a manner that "cradles" the tire.

To do this you need to use the TV to pull (or push) the trailer slightly up a chock and slip another chock in on the other side. This will capture the tire and put pressure on both chocks helping to ensure the trailer cant roll in either direction.

[ECones]

I put it together today out of a scrap piece of 2x8 I had. I had to include a short piece of 2x4 to do what wanted to, but it worked well. I didn't make the front square because I feared one of us might accidentally pull it off the front, and I feared a square front would make it kick up at the rear and damage something. The only negative is that it weighs 25 pounds.

The trailer was parked on a sloped section of our property, and my wife used this to level it with no problems. I hope we never need more than 4.5 inches.

But how about chocking? If there's not much of a slope, is it safe to chock one side only?

[ECones]

Bumpyroad wrote:

I think you should cut the leading edges at a 45 degree cut, and 1 1/2 (2x8/10) would be sufficient. 3/4 is being too extreme. just be sure you use boards that are wide enough to support the sidewalls of your tires.
bumpy

Thank you. I'll bevel the fronts. A 2x8 will be wide enough. I'm also a little concerned about chocking. With it up on boards on one side, is chocking the other side only enough? I'm assuming we won't be parking on the sides of any mountains.

My wife has informed me that she will be using the camper some by herself. Yes, I'm invited, but I often leave for days / weeks on a motorcycle, and she plans to camp when I'm gone. So I want to work this out she it'll be as easy as possible for her.

[Bumpyroad]

ECones wrote:
We just got our first travel trailer, and a search for leveling tips brought me here. I had planned to build a leveling tool from a single 2 x 8. What I planned was something like the drawing below. The bottom piece would be 36", then working up, 27", 18", and the top 9". Total height would 6", which is more than I ever plan to need, but I'd hoped I wouldn't get over-zealous and drive off the front, so the extra level is a safety precaution.

The plan is to simply place this in front of the tire on the low side and pull, raising it 1.5" at a time until it's close. If one is too low and one is too high, I could get it high, put a piece of 1 x 8 in the lower slot and back off to it. With this and a single 1 x 8 I could adjust in 3/4" increments.

Go easy on me now; I'm a newby 😉

But is 3/4" increments too picky? Not picky enough?

Is this a goofy idea completely?

I think you should cut the leading edges at a 45 degree cut, and 1 1/2 (2x8/10) would be sufficient. 3/4 is being too extreme. just be sure you use boards that are wide enough to support the sidewalls of your tires.
bumpy