City Water Flange

[_1nobby]

Whilst winterizing my TT, I made sure that the RV plumbing anti-freeze went everywhere it needed to go, including the city water
connection.



How did I do that, you ask?

Well, with the system almost fully pressurized with the on board water pump, I pushed in the check valve of the city water connection which forced anti-freeze into the line and out the valve.

Great!! Worked like a charm!

Except that in doing so, the internal "O" ring was dislodged thus rendering the check valve kaput.

So I decided to do some NDT on the valve to see the what for.




Kidding.


Once apart, however, it still leaves me shaking my head to WHY the "O" ring would get dislodged. It sits in a very deep groove of the actual valve.







Anyways....either way.....I'll be more careful next time with that step of winterizing and will install a new flange in the spring.



JR Products 160-85-A-26-A Polar White City Water Flange with 1/2" MPT

[_1nobby]

dodge guy wrote:

#1nobby wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:


Correct method, do it with no pressure and gravity will do the job.

Not in my case. The flange is higher than the inlet line assy.

A faucet inside the trailer will always be higher than the inlet!

That's a good point....I'd just have to do the city water line last.

THE BEST SUGGESTION yet. And the simplest. 🙂

[dodge_guy]

#1nobby wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:


Correct method, do it with no pressure and gravity will do the job.

Not in my case. The flange is higher than the inlet line assy.

A faucet inside the trailer will always be higher than the inlet!

[mosseater]

I turn off the pump, open a faucet, then go put something in the seat of the valve, like a wire tie or bread twisty. Something that won't damage the oring. Then go in and bump the pump on for a second. Presto! line filled with antifreeze. Remove bread tie and move on with your day. As long as the water is pushed out, the air doesn't matter much if there's a little bubble left.

[_1nobby]

beemerphile1 wrote:


Correct method, do it with no pressure and gravity will do the job.

Not in my case. The flange is higher than the inlet line assy.

[harley4275]

beemerphile1 wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
Or....after putting the pink stuff through the system, turn off the pump and open a faucet to relieve the pressure. then push in on the outside valve and let the pink stuff trickle out. no damage, no mess and winterized properly!

Correct method, do it with no pressure and gravity will do the job.

Do as said above ,but if you have a helper, after you depress the little white valve (and keeping it depressed) have helper turn pump on then off quickly to push pink thru inlet....stand off to the side when this occurs.

[beemerphile1]

dodge guy wrote:
Or....after putting the pink stuff through the system, turn off the pump and open a faucet to relieve the pressure. then push in on the outside valve and let the pink stuff trickle out. no damage, no mess and winterized properly!

Correct method, do it with no pressure and gravity will do the job.

[dodge_guy]

Or....after putting the pink stuff through the system, turn off the pump and open a faucet to relieve the pressure. then push in on the outside valve and let the pink stuff trickle out. no damage, no mess and winterized properly!

[_1nobby]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Just gut the innards and install a garden hose shutoff valve in city water connection.
No cheap plastic junk assembly to restrict flow
No cheap plastic junk assembly to fail and leak when using pump

Better flow and simple open/close of shutoff valve.

I have a 90* elbow plus shutoff valve on my city water and black tank flush connections (no internals----gutted the cheap plastic junk assembly internals)
90* takes the strain off hose connection and shutoff valve replaces check valve duties.
Been on my 5vr for 10 yrs.

Good idea.

[Old-Biscuit]

Just gut the innards and install a garden hose shutoff valve in city water connection.
No cheap plastic junk assembly to restrict flow
No cheap plastic junk assembly to fail and leak when using pump

Better flow and simple open/close of shutoff valve.

I have a 90* elbow plus shutoff valve on my city water and black tank flush connections (no internals----gutted the cheap plastic junk assembly internals)
90* takes the strain off hose connection and shutoff valve replaces check valve duties.
Been on my 5vr for 10 yrs.

[_1nobby]

SoundGuy wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
WHY you ask..........Because it is a cheap plastic piece of junk assembly.

#1nobby wrote:
This is the only explanation I accept.:)

#1nobby wrote:

Anyways....either way.....I'll be more careful next time with that step of winterizing and will install a new flange in the spring.

And the new one you ordered will be just the same. :W In future, push the check valve stem under sufficiently reduced pressure and you won't have this issue again - "cheap plastic piece of junk assembly" that it may be. 😉

If you're going to quote....try and get them all.

[SoundGuy]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
WHY you ask..........Because it is a cheap plastic piece of junk assembly.

#1nobby wrote:
This is the only explanation I accept.:)

And the new one you ordered will be just the same. :W In future, push the check valve stem under sufficiently reduced pressure and you won't have this issue again - "cheap plastic piece of junk assembly" that it may be. 😉

[myredracer]

You could just leave the guts of it out and install a 1/2" brass inline check valve on the interior side. I did that and also enlarged the hole inside the inlet, both to get better flow. These 1/2" check valves have standard IPS threads and will thread straight onto the rear of a city water inlet and are better quality.

[_1nobby]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
WHY you ask..........Because it is a cheap plastic piece of junk assembly.

This is the only explanation I accept.:)

[Old-Biscuit]

WHY you ask..........Because it is a cheap plastic piece of junk assembly.

AND the o-ring is designed to accept pressure/flow across/against it from the OUTSIDE
When system is pressurized and you push in on end of plunger the pressure/flow is a 'backflow' condition....one that will dislodged o-ring out of it's grove.

Simple reason...it is a one directional flow valve.