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Converting a travel trailer to all 120/240 volt electric

Guy_Roan
Explorer
Explorer
Has any one here ever done it and got rid of the 12 volt system and inverter/converter ?

Guy
29 REPLIES 29

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
I'm failing to see a purpose:
- If you are towing, you need a battery if for no other reason than the emergency brakes if the trailer becomes separated.
- If you are stationary, the battery lasts pretty much forever because it's never run down.

By the time you update all the 12v devices, you are likely looking in the thousands of dollars to pay someone (cheaper obviously DIY but still far from free). All to save replacing a $50 battery every 5-10yrs.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Hmm.. not sure what happened to the editor, kind of ran all of my comments into someone elses?

To correct that I move my comments to the top and made them red for clarity..

Some folks tend to burn up batteries every 2yrs-3yrs (not myself though) and some folks may feel it is a total waste to have a battery sitting around idle, 24/7/365.

Most FLA batteries in group 24/27 sizes are "maintenance free" sealed filler lids, so you can't add any water when they get low which can quickly shorten the battery life.. Even with multistage converters, over time with the battery continually being charged even in "maintenance mode" of 13.2V the battery WILL lose some water over time.

I have a pair of GC2s which use about 16 oz of water per yr, GC2s are larger than group24/27 and have more electrolyte capacity and can afford to lose some water due to constant charging..

Group 24/27 do not have much room for water loss..

I would hazard a guess that group24/27 is going to lose 3 oz maybe 4 oz of water per yr.. 3 yrs is going to mean that batteries plates will be nearly exposed if you can't pry the lids off. Dead battery shortly after the plates are exposed.

Batteries are not cheap by any means, group24 is going to pinch your wallet for $70-$80 and some folks just don't want to put that into there rig just to sit around unused.

I am sure someone is just about ready to tell the OP to get Lithium based batteries instead of retrofitting the electrical system :R


schlep1967 wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
schlep1967 wrote:
Flute Man wrote:

As far as the reasons to replace the 12V system, well I am sure the OP has their reasons.. Part of it is they may be wanting to get rid of the battery maintenance/replacement costs..

What cost is there to maintaining the existing battery? Replace it every 5 to 10 years? A lot cheaper than any other option.

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
BurbMan wrote:
Biggest issue would be replacing the lighting with 120v.

Keep the 12V lighting, but replace the converter with a small 12 power supply.

BurbMan wrote:
Would you abandon propane too and make everything electric?

I would. One less thing to think about. Residential fridge, microwave and 1 or possibly 2 induction cook plates.

schlep1967
Nomad
Nomad
Gdetrailer wrote:
schlep1967 wrote:
Flute Man wrote:

As far as the reasons to replace the 12V system, well I am sure the OP has their reasons.. Part of it is they may be wanting to get rid of the battery maintenance/replacement costs..

What cost is there to maintaining the existing battery? Replace it every 5 to 10 years? A lot cheaper than any other option.
2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ 3500 Diesel
2022 Montana Legacy 3931FB
Pull-Rite Super Glide 4500

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
schlep1967 wrote:
Flute Man wrote:
My neighbors fifth wheel has all been converted over and he just loves it. It is now a park model. The plumbing was even changed to residential. His rig is now permanent in an RV park.

I'm just not seeing the benefit. What does he love about it? The only real improvement I can think of is getting rid of the propane heat so you don't have to fill the tanks. Everything else should be the same as long as you are hooked up to electric.
My concern would be a power outage. With no 12 volt back-up your at the mercy of the parks power. You lose your cold storage, hot water, heat and even water if the park has a well instead of public service. With your 12 volt systems you keep all of these for a little while until the power comes back on.


Guess you have never priced "Park" models, have ya.. They are not cheap, most likely switching to all 120V lighting would be far, far cheaper than any Park model even if you had to pay an electrician to do it.

Romex can be added after the fact to walls and ceiling, does take some work to do it, but can be done without ripping up the interior.. At the same time can add in wall mounted light switches which makes like easier for folks that are height challenged.. Would only need one 120V lighting circuit for the entire RV and with the use of all LEDs it isn't going to amount to any big load but you will get far more light than any 12V LEDs..

No need to change outlet wiring, those can be put into a new 240/120V breaker panel.

Heck you could even just add a new 240/120V panel, use a 30A SINGLE POLE breaker to feed the existing panel and you would be pretty much all set.

The only issues I see is you would need to convert or replace the existing furnace, conversion I would not imagine that would be easy or cheap and a new 120V park model furnace would be insanely expensive..

Water heater if DSI would require 12V for the ignition and safety system board ( although if they have a pilot only water heater there is no issue with no 12V, Replacing the water heater with pilot only is going to set them back $00 easily) and the RV fridge would need to go since it also requires 12V for the control board, that would cost $400 for a 10 cu ft home fridge.

As far as the reasons to replace the 12V system, well I am sure the OP has their reasons.. Part of it is they may be wanting to get rid of the battery maintenance/replacement costs..

If this is the case, it can be done even if they plan to travel, with one caveat.. They WILL still need a SMALL battery for the emergency Break away braking system. That can be a small gel-cell system like this..



About $40 for that box with battery..

colliehauler
Explorer III
Explorer III
BB_TX wrote:
Are you planning to get rid of propane also? If not, remember the water heater on propane uses 12 vdc for control board and solenoid and the furnace runs on 12 vdc.
Not to mention the slideouts, lighting, water pump, stereo. Like others would be foolish in my opinion. Just to change the lighting and wall switches would be a pain. I would also go with a mobile home for better insulation if parked along with being on one level and larger. Would come with residential appliances, toilet, WH, lighting, furnace, A/C along with no black or grey tanks to deal with.

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
Are you planning to get rid of propane also? If not, remember the water heater on propane uses 12 vdc for control board and solenoid and the furnace runs on 12 vdc.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Who said he was parking it ?
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Would be cheaper to sell the RV and just buy a park model if you want to park it somewhere.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
โ€œMy concern would be a power outage. With no 12 volt back-up...โ€

Excellent comment! X2
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

schlep1967
Nomad
Nomad
Flute Man wrote:
My neighbors fifth wheel has all been converted over and he just loves it. It is now a park model. The plumbing was even changed to residential. His rig is now permanent in an RV park.

I'm just not seeing the benefit. What does he love about it? The only real improvement I can think of is getting rid of the propane heat so you don't have to fill the tanks. Everything else should be the same as long as you are hooked up to electric.
My concern would be a power outage. With no 12 volt back-up your at the mercy of the parks power. You lose your cold storage, hot water, heat and even water if the park has a well instead of public service. With your 12 volt systems you keep all of these for a little while until the power comes back on.
2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ 3500 Diesel
2022 Montana Legacy 3931FB
Pull-Rite Super Glide 4500

Flute_Man
Explorer
Explorer
My neighbors fifth wheel has all been converted over and he just loves it. It is now a park model. The plumbing was even changed to residential. His rig is now permanent in an RV park.
Jerry Parr
05 Mandalay 40B
Cat C7 350
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Ham Radio K7OU
Retired EE
Jrparr32@gmail.com
602-321-8141
Full-timer

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Just curious why you would do that? Biggest issue would be replacing the lighting with 120v. It wouldn't be a code violation per se to run more romex, but code does limit you to 6 branch circuits in an RV. Getting the wiring through the walls would be a nightmare.

Would you abandon propane too and make everything electric? The fridge and the HW heater already run on 120v in addition to propane, but the fridge requires 12v for its control circuit.

schlep1967
Nomad
Nomad
Never done it. Wouldn't do it.
If you're going to do it I would think your going to have to install electric heat/heat pump, residential fridge and residential water heater. Abandon the 12 volt wiring in place and use plug in lights where you currently rely on 12 volt lights. Running any new 120V wiring would likely be a code violation in more than one way.

If you want to live in a mobile home get rid of the RV and buy one. It would probably be cheaper in the long run.
2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ 3500 Diesel
2022 Montana Legacy 3931FB
Pull-Rite Super Glide 4500

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
do "park" models run stuff on 12 volt?
bumpy