Cool Mods - Thread restored 10/18/2012

[2Rad4U]

My daughter was getting a little warm in her bunk during our last camping trip, so I decided to put her a fan in to keep the air flowing.

I had been wanting to add a 12-volt fan to the main living area anyway, so I decided to tackle both jobs today. A trip to Wal-Mart for two fans($8.48 each) and we're halfway there.

She picked the spot, and I got to work -



I picked up the power from her overhead light. All I have left is to install a short piece of wire cover and I'm done -



I added one in the main area -



I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -



I added a sopa dispenser to the kitchen area as well. I also installed a Pop-a-Napkin under the radio -



Here's an easy mod. I found this over the door towel rack at Walmart and it works great -

[chr_]

Bobandshawn wrote:
That looks like what I did to mine. Same toolbox anyway. I have 2 12volts centered in mine. The tool box is mounted at the trailer frame height on mine.

Yes, but made for the purpose without the wings for a pickup. Also, with louver vents, and compartments separating the batteries from the electronics...

[Bobandshawn]

FYI for those looking at the aluminum tool box to store and lock your batteries in. To my knowledge (which is minimal) the Kobalt boxes sold at Lowes are the only ones I could find that are narrow enough. These are about 12" wide. And again, they will only work on a couple trailers. They are cheap, I bought 2 of them for about $210 a while back on sale. They are actually not too poor in construction but the latches could be better and being they are so narrow the latching bars etc can hinder the contents of the box.

[tenbear]

Boomtown Rat wrote:
My trailer has a dinette with drawers for storage. I really like the convenience of the drawer storage but they left a lot of available storage area unused.

I like what you have done. Mine did not have a dinette drawer and I installed one, but I never thought about the space above the drawer. I will have to look at mine and see if I can do something similar.

The other dinette seat has electrical and heater stuff under it, but maybe I can use the space above that.

Thanks for sharing.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Boomtown Rat wrote:
My trailer has a dinette with drawers for storage. I really like the convenience of the drawer storage but they left a lot of available storage area unused. More storage is always good. With some 1x2's and 1/4" plywood I was able add some overstock storage. This is what it looked like under the seating area before I started.
RV on!
Boom

🙂 Hi, you had a lot of wasted space and did a great job of making it useful.

[Bobandshawn]

That looks like what I did to mine. Same toolbox anyway. I have 2 12volts centered in mine. The tool box is mounted at the trailer frame height on mine.

[Beachums]

chr$ wrote:
Folks, I am looking at having a custom battery box made for my TT.

Is there interest in having a tongue box that can hold 4 GC2 batteries with vents and divided compartments for tools, inverter, etc. that is narrower than the current available tongue boxes?

Typical tongue boxes only are wide enough for a couple of batteries. No reason they cannot extend out each side of the tongue as our trailers are up to 8 feet wide.

These would be aluminum diamond plate, with weatherproof hinged lids, and two hasps to secure the goods inside.

I am thinking of having 5 made to reduce the overall unit cost.

What would such a box be worth to you?

Do you mean something like this?

[Boomtown_Rat]

My trailer has a dinette with drawers for storage. I really like the convenience of the drawer storage but they left a lot of available storage area unused. More storage is always good. With some 1x2's and 1/4" plywood I was able add some overstock storage. This is what it looked like under the seating area before I started.


I used a air stapler and a chop saw to trim and secure the 1x2's.


Next I cut the 1/4" plywood on a table saw and the air stapler was used to secure the plywood.


This area is great for a RV Costco pantry. We store extra paper plates, paper towels, plastic flatware and such for long trips.


RV on!
Boom

[chr_]

Bobandshawn wrote:
On my 2008 Keystone Springdale I mounted a 12" deep Lowes truck tool box where the battery boxes were between the trailer and LPG tanks. It just barely fit and it would be a no-go on lots of trailers. I have my 2 12Volts inside in boxes along with all my blocks and such. I also added a 12 volt disconnect switch in there. It adds a little more security while the trailer is being stored from battery snatchers. Weight wise it probably added 50 lbs up front once you figure in the blocks. I do have it drilled for ventilation on the back side of the tool box. .

I have considered one, but I don't like the look with that step for the truckbed. Sure, it makes a nice shelf for tools, and people put the vent holes on the bottom of it, but it just looks funny to me. My nomad also has a curved front, so I really have limited space at the top of the box, which just happens to be about where the curve sticks out the most. I also don't have diamond plate on the front (!!) so my new box design sort of acts in place of that.

I also have a buddy with very very little space between the front of his trailer and the back of the tank and one of those simply will not fit, nor will my modified Harbor Fright tongue box. Seems the newer ones have shorter tongues.

This whole need started due to battery snatchers. Idiots tossed my leveling bars on the ground, cut the wire between the batteries then realized they were six volts so they left 'em.

At the very least, six volt batteries do have some semblance of theft deterrence. 🙂

[Bobandshawn]

On my 2008 Keystone Springdale I mounted a 12" deep Lowes truck tool box where the battery boxes were between the trailer and LPG tanks. It just barely fit and it would be a no-go on lots of trailers. I have my 2 12Volts inside in boxes along with all my blocks and such. I also added a 12 volt disconnect switch in there. It adds a little more security while the trailer is being stored from battery snatchers. Weight wise it probably added 50 lbs up front once you figure in the blocks. I do have it drilled for ventilation on the back side of the tool box. .

[chr_]

RSD559 wrote:
With the extra propane tank and a bunch of batteries, you're talking about a lot of extra weight. I know my GVWR can't handle it. If you can take the extra weight, it looks great!

Sure, some can and some can't. People are putting extra batteries out there already, but the choices of boxes are currently too bulky and mostly steel.

[RSD559]

With the extra propane tank and a bunch of batteries, you're talking about a lot of extra weight. I know my GVWR can't handle it. If you can take the extra weight, it looks great!

[chr_]

Folks, I am looking at having a custom battery box made for my TT.

Is there interest in having a tongue box that can hold 4 GC2 batteries with vents and divided compartments for tools, inverter, etc. that is narrower than the current available tongue boxes?

Typical tongue boxes only are wide enough for a couple of batteries. No reason they cannot extend out each side of the tongue as our trailers are up to 8 feet wide.

These would be aluminum diamond plate, with weatherproof hinged lids, and two hasps to secure the goods inside.

I am thinking of having 5 made to reduce the overall unit cost.

What would such a box be worth to you?

[hbrady]

Nicholsfamily05 wrote:
Looks great.
We also have them under our rig but ur right about the 3M tape. So we bought a roll of the heavy duty stuff and taped it to the back and it worked awesome. 3 years later still going strong.

But they make it look awesome at night!!

My wife says I have now 'pimped out' our camper 😉 Sure is going to make tank dumps at night a little easier, no tripping over roots on the dark side of the site :B

[chr_]

I have it under my awning for about three years now. I used Scotch foam backed tape. Still there after three Arizona summers, but like rrev stated, surface prep is key. Alcohol also helps remove grease and other materials that adversely affect adhesion.

[rrev]

The trick to the 3M tape is prep. Surface has to be nearly surgically clean and the use of adhesion promoter helps tremendously. You can use pvc primer, like for plastic pipes. Just make sure you tape off adjacent areas so you don't stain surfaces you don't want it on.