My daughter was getting a little warm in her bunk during our last camping trip, so I decided to put her a fan in to keep the air flowing.
I had been wanting to add a 12-volt fan to the main living area anyway, so I decided to tackle both jobs today. A trip to Wal-Mart for two fans($8.48 each) and we're halfway there.
She picked the spot, and I got to work -
I picked up the power from her overhead light. All I have left is to install a short piece of wire cover and I'm done -
I added one in the main area -
I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -
I added a sopa dispenser to the kitchen area as well. I also installed a Pop-a-Napkin under the radio -
Here's an easy mod. I found this over the door towel rack at Walmart and it works great -
I had been wanting to add a 12-volt fan to the main living area anyway, so I decided to tackle both jobs today. A trip to Wal-Mart for two fans($8.48 each) and we're halfway there.
She picked the spot, and I got to work -
I picked up the power from her overhead light. All I have left is to install a short piece of wire cover and I'm done -
I added one in the main area -
I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -
I added a sopa dispenser to the kitchen area as well. I also installed a Pop-a-Napkin under the radio -
Here's an easy mod. I found this over the door towel rack at Walmart and it works great -
I think you need to do something at Photobucket to allow these pictures to be seen.
nadkaw1957 wrote:
Here is how I built my storage slide:
All lumber is cut to length according to your space. The plywood width is cut to accommodate your door width. The 1X4 height can be adjusted to whatever height you need to clear the door frame.
Glue and screw the lower 1X2 to the 1X4 to act as a base.
Drill and screw the 1½” angle aluminum to the top of the 1X4, allowing just enough room for the ½” plywood to slip in between the angle and the lumber. You don’t want it TOO tight, but it needs to be snug. Screw the base to the trailer floor at the appropriate place to allow clearance through the door frame. Make sure it is lined up to the door frames on both sides of the trailer if you want to access it from either side and make sure that the slides are parallel and square to each other.
Measure the width from the inside of one angle aluminum to the inside of the other to determine the width of the plywood. Again, you want it to be snug, but not so tight as to hinder movement. Cut it to the correct width and slide it in. Mark the inside edge of the 1X4 on the bottom of the plywood, then glue and screw the upper 1X2’s to the bottom. This will act as a guide as it slides, as well as adding strength to the length of the plywood. If your door is wide, you may want to add another 1X2 to the center of the plywood for more linear strength.
Drill 1” holes in the center at each end of the plywood for someplace to grip.
I am able to pull the slide out more than halfway with little to no sagging. I also installed plastic bins at each end and another in the middle to keep things organized. The plywood is snug enough that it won’t slide either direction on its own, so there was no need for latches of any kind.
Here is how I built my storage slide:
All lumber is cut to length according to your space. The plywood width is cut to accommodate your door width. The 1X4 height can be adjusted to whatever height you need to clear the door frame.
Glue and screw the lower 1X2 to the 1X4 to act as a base.
Drill and screw the 1½” angle aluminum to the top of the 1X4, allowing just enough room for the ½” plywood to slip in between the angle and the lumber. You don’t want it TOO tight, but it needs to be snug. Screw the base to the trailer floor at the appropriate place to allow clearance through the door frame. Make sure it is lined up to the door frames on both sides of the trailer if you want to access it from either side and make sure that the slides are parallel and square to each other.
Measure the width from the inside of one angle aluminum to the inside of the other to determine the width of the plywood. Again, you want it to be snug, but not so tight as to hinder movement. Cut it to the correct width and slide it in. Mark the inside edge of the 1X4 on the bottom of the plywood, then glue and screw the upper 1X2’s to the bottom. This will act as a guide as it slides, as well as adding strength to the length of the plywood. If your door is wide, you may want to add another 1X2 to the center of the plywood for more linear strength.
Drill 1” holes in the center at each end of the plywood for someplace to grip.
I am able to pull the slide out more than halfway with little to no sagging. I also installed plastic bins at each end and another in the middle to keep things organized. The plywood is snug enough that it won’t slide either direction on its own, so there was no need for latches of any kind.
All lumber is cut to length according to your space. The plywood width is cut to accommodate your door width. The 1X4 height can be adjusted to whatever height you need to clear the door frame.
Glue and screw the lower 1X2 to the 1X4 to act as a base.
Drill and screw the 1½” angle aluminum to the top of the 1X4, allowing just enough room for the ½” plywood to slip in between the angle and the lumber. You don’t want it TOO tight, but it needs to be snug. Screw the base to the trailer floor at the appropriate place to allow clearance through the door frame. Make sure it is lined up to the door frames on both sides of the trailer if you want to access it from either side and make sure that the slides are parallel and square to each other.
Measure the width from the inside of one angle aluminum to the inside of the other to determine the width of the plywood. Again, you want it to be snug, but not so tight as to hinder movement. Cut it to the correct width and slide it in. Mark the inside edge of the 1X4 on the bottom of the plywood, then glue and screw the upper 1X2’s to the bottom. This will act as a guide as it slides, as well as adding strength to the length of the plywood. If your door is wide, you may want to add another 1X2 to the center of the plywood for more linear strength.
Drill 1” holes in the center at each end of the plywood for someplace to grip.
I am able to pull the slide out more than halfway with little to no sagging. I also installed plastic bins at each end and another in the middle to keep things organized. The plywood is snug enough that it won’t slide either direction on its own, so there was no need for latches of any kind.
Couldn't find them, Here is a link to the site where I put them and it includes a lot of the other mods I did.
Photos Here
Photos Here
