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DIY pressure test

maxum1989
Explorer
Explorer
Well I have a leak in my camper I'm trying to trace down. I am getting water at the front passenger corner at the bottom of the mattress. With it being a Northern Lite camper with full fiberglass the possible locations for the water to get in are limited. As far as I can tell the only locations could be the upper windows, the marker lights up front, or the center seam. I guess I could add the skylight above the bed to that list but I just re-did all the sealant on the roof cutouts this summer. I put many coats of the sealant up there so I am pretty confident anything on the roof is sealed.

At first I was going to take out the two upper windows in the cabover and re-seal them but I am now unsure those are the issue. I think its more likely the water is getting in at the center seam that joins the upper and lower halves of the camper.
I have tried several attempts at using green painters tape to seal up various location with mixed results. I have also tried leaning the camper in different directions to see if I can get the leak to stop.
So now I have decided to do my own pressure test to see if I can really find out the exact location of the leak without guessing.

Here is what I've done. This first photo shows the 1/4 mdf sheet that I cut to the size of one of the side windows. It will be easy to tape it to the outside of the camper with the fans sitting on a table outside. I used a new unused sewer hose that fit onto the fans perfectly. I also have my manometer that I had sitting around mounted through the mdf as well to monitor the proper pressure.



This shows the sewer hose through the mdf which fits quite tight as well. I may not even have to seal/tape these spots. I had to thread it through the holes. The manometer will tell me if I need to address this.



Another shot a little closer showing tubes coming through.



While its been raining here nicely to test the green tape and leaning camper part of the testing, it would be nice if the rain stopped so I could try out this air pressure testing setup. With the camper wet the tape to hold the mdf in place won't work very well. So, here I am ready to test and waiting on weather.

Anyone see any issues with my testing setup?
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*
13 REPLIES 13

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
joeshmoe wrote:
bigfootford wrote:

I would wait 3-6 mos and do it again...


you men 3-6 mos to re-tighten or reseal again?

I was under the impression 5 years from new was the norm before having to do any major resealing. I try to keep a close eye the roof stuff.


Only talking about the windows.... Only Bigfoot. Your windows may be the same type and might need the same attention.

If tightened a couple of times when the camper is new you will never have a window leak with the kind of windows installed on the Bigfoot and some other campers.

When some folks have removed windows to re-do they have found DIRT between the Butyl tape and the body of the camper or window frame indicating that there NEVER was any bond, right from the factory! It only takes a 1/4in or less across the top or sides of the window to create a ROTTING over time leak!

This problem is really acerbated with metal sided type of campers... Getting a good seal between the bends of the metal is really a problem...

Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.

joeshmoe
Explorer
Explorer
bigfootford wrote:

I would wait 3-6 mos and do it again...


you men 3-6 mos to re-tighten or reseal again?

I was under the impression 5 years from new was the norm before having to do any major resealing. I try to keep a close eye the roof stuff.
2014 Northwood Wolf Creek 850
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bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
Many of us have found out the hard way about these camper windows.

I had the rear kitchen area of my Bigfoot leak the day I bought it.

Instead of taking it back to the dealer 300 mi I elected to fix it myself and see why it would leak.
I removed the window using a heat gun and plastic putty knifes. Not too much heat just enough to soften the Butyl tape sealer.

I found that the window was not sealed at the right top side.... After I cleaned up the window and opening I placed the window up there and found that the curve of the camper corner starts where the window sits... Ugggg... It too 2 layers of Butyl tape to provide a proper seal.

I also found that it is imperative that the screws around the windows be repeatedly snugged slightly a few times. You want the sealer to ooze out... If you start to tighten the screws I would first check to see if some are not even tight! Snug those down slightly, then turn the screws maybe 1/4 turn each... You should see the sealer slightly ooze or bulge a bit.
I would wait 3-6 mos and do it again...

I did all my windows after finding out that the windows were not sealed properly. After about 3 years I removed the excess oozed sealer...

If your camper is old you may need to remove the windows that do not ooze sealer and re-do.

There are a few examples of what I have described on our TC forum...

Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.

billyray50
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for sharing. I will be looking into this too. IMHO pressure test is the way to go.

maxum1989
Explorer
Explorer
So today the rain decided to take the day off which means I finally had a chance to test my DIY pressure test setup. I taped the MDF sheet to the side window of my camper and fired it up.



I taped the inside drains in the sinks and shower and made sure everything else was closed up tight. I didn't do anything with the hood fan until I tested the pressure first. I was happy to see that with just the sink and shower drains taped off I got a reading of about .5 inches on the manometer. Perfect.

So I proceeded to spray the bubble/soap solution all over the camper with good results everywhere until I got to the front upper passenger side area. This is the area I was getting water inside at. On the upper passenger window in the cab-over I was getting bubbles on the lower right corner. I took note and carried on. For some reason I also got some bubbles at the clam shell seam at the passenger upper corner as well. But, the strange part was that I only got the bubbles for a very short time on the clam shell corner. It bubbled once and then I could not get it to do it again. Still puzzles about that.

Anyways I proceeded to spray the camper many times until I was satisfied I had the problem spots figured out.

Next plan was to remove the upper passenger window in the cab-over to see what was going on. Once removed it was easy to see what the issue was.

In this shot below with the window removed you can see the outline of the sealant that has a fairly even 1/2" to 5/8" of contact all the way around. That part is perfectly fine.



But, in this next shot you can see at the bottom right corner there is only maybe a 1/4" of contact for the sealant to do its work. This is where I was getting bubbles. And yes, the foam board and inner paneling was wet at this location. Clearly when this window was cutout at the factory this radius turn was done a little quick and eventually the sealant failed or its just been leaking the whole time. Who knows.



I reinstalled the window and kept it as close to the right side as I could to have better contact for the sealant for this bottom corner. I did have to do some trimming on the inside for the window trim ring to line up with the old screw holes but that wasn't a big deal to trim. I think this window is now sealed and shouldn't be an issue again.

This left me wondering about the clam shell seam and what I should do about it on that corner. The bubbles I did get were right at the top where the sealant had oozed out and was quite dirty and unsightly. I couldn't ignore that I did get some bubbles there. So I made a quick decision to trim away the dirty sealant above the seam and caulked it with some proflex. I didn't go all the way around the camper, only the upper area around the cab-over. I know some people say to not caulk this but the only other way to seal it would have to been to remove all the screws and take the whole thing apart. I wasn't prepared to do that on this day.

I put a tarp over the camper for the night to give the sealant a good chance to setup before weather gets a chance to to attack it again. I hope this takes care of the water issue I had. Rain is expected this week again so I'll remove the tarp in a couple days and see what happens.

For anyone who has a possible leak I highly recommend the pressure test to ease your mind. Get it done professionally or a make-shift set-up like I have done. I plan on pressure testing every year to stay ahead of possible issues.
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

covered_wagon
Explorer
Explorer
By the time you discover the water it may have gotten a chance to dry out on the exposed area. Look real close at the paneling under the windows for a faint but dry water stain/streak. Now I remember that leak doesn't usually go near the mattress if the window vent leaks. Look into the escape hatch by removing the inside trim. There are 4 screws to remove. Then feel the insulation with your hands. There should be more than just a faint amount of moisture if you do find the leak.

The escape hatch has a problematic area that is hard to seal because the strip pivot hinge is too close to the deck on the corners. Im currently having a new excape lid made of aluminum and providing my own hinges well away from where it needs the sealant to go up higher on the corners.

maxum1989
Explorer
Explorer
covered wagon wrote:
I had a lot of leaks in my NL. Non were the clam shell seam. Take the interior trim off the escape hatch and see if you feel any moisture. But first check the window vents as they mold up with dirt and the bottom window channel won't drain outside but inside instead.

Remove marker lites and caulk around the wires going thru the fiberglass body. Caulk screws and lite base mounting.

thank you for reminding me as my front side window vents need cleaning and have been leaking inside.


When you mention the window vents, does this mean the drain holes to the outside? Is the water visible in the window frame on the inside? I never get visible water inside at the window frame area, no matter how hard it rains. It just appears down low at the bottom of the mattress.
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

maxum1989
Explorer
Explorer
corvettekent wrote:
How many PSI do you think you will get? Are you going to soap the area where you think the leak is?


Right now I don't know what I'll get. From the searching I did some needed only one blower but most needed more. First test will tell. I can always add more. There is room. Soap mixture is the plan.
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

maxum1989
Explorer
Explorer
gbopp wrote:
I'm definitely not an expert but, will having the hose for the manometer that close to the fan inlets give you a false + or - reading?

Does the pressure # really matter as long as the interior or the RV is pressurized?



Too much pressure is not a good thing from what I read. Also, not enough and you don't get the desired results. Very low pressure is needed. .3 to .6 water column is perfect from what I've found.

I will take the time to see if the manometer tube location is a problem. I'll test moving it around to see if it changes. Thanks for that heads up.
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
I'm definitely not an expert but, will having the hose for the manometer that close to the fan inlets give you a false + or - reading?

Does the pressure # really matter as long as the interior or the RV is pressurized?

Kayteg1
Explorer
Explorer
GOOD IDEA.
Forget soapy water. On cars vacuum system leaks, I advise a cigar.
If you want quality test, make it Cuban cigar.

covered_wagon
Explorer
Explorer
I had a lot of leaks in my NL. Non were the clam shell seam. Take the interior trim off the escape hatch and see if you feel any moisture. But first check the window vents as they mold up with dirt and the bottom window channel won't drain outside but inside instead.

Remove marker lites and caulk around the wires going thru the fiberglass body. Caulk screws and lite base mounting.

thank you for reminding me as my front side window vents need cleaning and have been leaking inside.

corvettekent
Explorer
Explorer
How many PSI do you think you will get? Are you going to soap the area where you think the leak is?
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