Equal-izer Hitch Bars

[Bigfoot2005]

Hey guys

Will be getting a new Imagine 2800BH next year and looking into getting a Equal-i-zer Hitch

I did the hitch size calculator on their website and it is telling me to get the 1400 lb version.

GTW - 7995 lbs
Tongue weight - Dry 604 lbs - Rough actual - 13% is 1039 lbs
Cargo weight in bed of truck - 400 lbs

Truck hitch says max is 1250 lbs

is 1400 lbs bars to stiff or should I go with the 1200 lb version

All figures are estimates but close

[trailer_newbe]

Our 28RL is in that 600lb tung weight range (dry) and we are closer to 1,000 lbs. or maybe a little more. I went with the 1,000 Equalizer bars because I want things to flex. No point making the ride uncomfortable and no reason to stress the trailer. Going with a hitch that is rated well above what you will be towing simply causes stresses to occur elsewhere, whether in the cab, or on the trailer frame. Buy a WDH for what your trailer is rated for and don’t go above because it does not add a safety factor. My neighbor has a 28’ Sonoma that is a little heavier than ours towing with the same truck. He’s been using an 800 lbs. WDH for six years and he really likes it.

[Huntindog]

Acdii wrote:

Bigfoot2005 wrote:

Bigfoot2005 wrote:

opnspaces wrote:
Seems like 1200 lb bars to me. I don't think the weight in the bed comes into play.

When you do the calculation on their website they ask for the bed weight i guess because you are transferring weight from the rear axle and anything over the axle adds to the transfer weight

What is the issue with having to stiff of the bars? 1400 versus 1200

I can tell you exactly what the issue will be, Just found this out myself.

I had done some calculations prior to buying my Blue Ox, and had come up with a receiver weight of 1200 pounds. That is the weight of the trailer tongue as well as the hitch itself. So I went and got the 1500 pound BO.

As far as distributing weight, it worked perfectly, transferred everything properly, BUT I could not get the required bar tension for the sway control to function. When I did, it lifted the rear too much, and dropped the front end past the unloaded fender height.

I wound up with having to buy a new set of 1000 pound bars that resolved the issue.

Turns out when I did my calculations I had included adding a rack above the LP tanks to mount an 80 pound Generator, which would have added 130 pounds to the 890 the tongue weighs now, putting me over the 1000 pound mark for tongue weight, but when I finally got around to measuring the A frame to see if the rack would fit, which it wont, I had already bought the BO and set it up.

So no, bigger bars will not work, they cannot be tensioned enough if the weight isn't there, and will not apply the proper sway control.

What is required to get an accurate weight for the spring bars is three things, the weight of the trailer tongue, the weight of the hitch itself, and the weight of anything in the bed behind the rear axle. I never added anything behind the axle, it all fit in front of it, so even though I carry the generator in the bed, it is not carried by the receiver.

Generally, anything carried by the receiver is what you size the bars to, not the hitch. The receiver is that socket under the bumper, not the hitch the trailer connects to, some folks get that part wrong, so just want to make sure it is understood the difference.

If you don't have the trailer and need a rough estimate, take the curb weight, which is the UVW, and add at least 1000-1200 pounds to it for cargo and water, and use that number * 13%. So say the UVW is 5000, like mine, I carry 1500 pounds of cargo, and weigh 6550. 6550 * .13 = 851. Mine is closer to 13.5%, hence 890 pounds.

This is an excellent post.
The integreted sway control hitches rely on TW for the sway control. IOW, proper sizing and setup are important.

This is why I often recommend that newbies start with a standard WD with the add on friction control.
You can miss the setup by a lot with them, and still derive some benefit from it.
Later with more experience and knowledge, they can get a integreted SC if they desire.

[Acdii]

Bigfoot2005 wrote:

Bigfoot2005 wrote:

opnspaces wrote:
Seems like 1200 lb bars to me. I don't think the weight in the bed comes into play.

When you do the calculation on their website they ask for the bed weight i guess because you are transferring weight from the rear axle and anything over the axle adds to the transfer weight

What is the issue with having to stiff of the bars? 1400 versus 1200

I can tell you exactly what the issue will be, Just found this out myself.

I had done some calculations prior to buying my Blue Ox, and had come up with a receiver weight of 1200 pounds. That is the weight of the trailer tongue as well as the hitch itself. So I went and got the 1500 pound BO.

As far as distributing weight, it worked perfectly, transferred everything properly, BUT I could not get the required bar tension for the sway control to function. When I did, it lifted the rear too much, and dropped the front end past the unloaded fender height.

I wound up with having to buy a new set of 1000 pound bars that resolved the issue.

Turns out when I did my calculations I had included adding a rack above the LP tanks to mount an 80 pound Generator, which would have added 130 pounds to the 890 the tongue weighs now, putting me over the 1000 pound mark for tongue weight, but when I finally got around to measuring the A frame to see if the rack would fit, which it wont, I had already bought the BO and set it up.

So no, bigger bars will not work, they cannot be tensioned enough if the weight isn't there, and will not apply the proper sway control.

What is required to get an accurate weight for the spring bars is three things, the weight of the trailer tongue, the weight of the hitch itself, and the weight of anything in the bed behind the rear axle. I never added anything behind the axle, it all fit in front of it, so even though I carry the generator in the bed, it is not carried by the receiver.

Generally, anything carried by the receiver is what you size the bars to, not the hitch. The receiver is that socket under the bumper, not the hitch the trailer connects to, some folks get that part wrong, so just want to make sure it is understood the difference.

If you don't have the trailer and need a rough estimate, take the curb weight, which is the UVW, and add at least 1000-1200 pounds to it for cargo and water, and use that number * 13%. So say the UVW is 5000, like mine, I carry 1500 pounds of cargo, and weigh 6550. 6550 * .13 = 851. Mine is closer to 13.5%, hence 890 pounds.

[Huntindog]

obwan2 wrote:
Quote from Equal-i-zer's Randy Workman "The bars on the 12k and 14k are actually the same, the only difference in the two hitches is the Hitch head"

I have owned a 10K, 12K, and now a 14K.
Mine were all different.
The difference that is visable between the 10K and 12K is that the notch on the bars is offset on the 12K. This makes it impossible to use 10K bars on a 12K hitch head, and vice versus..
I believe that the dimensions are otherwise the same. But I bet the strength of the bars and heads is different.
The 14K bars are 1-1/2" wide vs 1-3/8" wide for the 10K and 12K bars

[BarneyS]

obwan2 wrote:
Quote from Equal-i-zer's Randy Workman "The bars on the 12k and 14k are actually the same, the only difference in the two hitches is the Hitch head"

I thought it was the other way around.
Equal-i-zer used to put the hitch dimensions and specs on their website. Has been a while since I was on it but they were gone the last time I was there.
Barney

[obwan2]

Quote from Equal-i-zer's Randy Workman "The bars on the 12k and 14k are actually the same, the only difference in the two hitches is the Hitch head"

[Huntindog]

Fordlover wrote:
When I approached the manufacturer about this concern, they said go with the heavier bars, as the hitch can be adjusted to distribute the proper weight.

This isn’t my advice, simply what the experts told me.

You really cannot adjust it that way. The bars ar designed to flex, when going over road surfaces that require it. Things such as a steep drive way like many gas stations have. This will require that the TV/TT angle change a LOT from just towing down a level road.
As for advice you got on the phone... I have been told many things on the phone, by many different companies that was not true.Often it seems, the new employee gets assigned to answer the phone.

Going with a heavier than needed bar, doesn't always mean it will damage the TT frame... It depends on just how much extra strength the frame has. But it will always result in inferior perfaormance to a properly sized bar.

Similar to the shoe example.
My parents when I was young alwys bought me shoes several sizes too big, so I would "grow" into them. The problem was that before I could grow into them, they were shot. So I ended up never having the right sized shoes growing up. The result was I now have problems with my feet.

They have different sized bars for a reason. I suspect the engineers that designed the hitch would NOT tell you to go bigger than needed.... But you will not find the engineers manning the phones.

[Fordlover]

When I approached the manufacturer about this concern, they said go with the heavier bars, as the hitch can be adjusted to distribute the proper weight.

This isn’t my advice, simply what the experts told me.

[CFerguson]

Theres a reason they make them with different ratings. Get the properly sized one and sleep well.

[dodge_guy]

Do it right and get the 1200lb bars. Your truck, trailer and back will thank you!

[Huntindog]

delwhjr wrote:

Bigfoot2005 wrote:
Hey guys

Will be getting a new Imagine 2800BH next year and looking into getting a Equal-i-zer Hitch

I did the hitch size calculator on their website and it is telling me to get the 1400 lb version.

GTW - 7995 lbs
Tongue weight - Dry 604 lbs - Rough actual - 13% is 1039 lbs
Cargo weight in bed of truck - 400 lbs

Truck hitch says max is 1250 lbs

is 1400 lbs bars to stiff or should I go with the 1200 lb version

All figures are estimates but close

When I moved to my current trailer, I contacted Equal-i-zer on the question of which hitch. I was using a 1/10 and would need to go to at least the 12/12. The rep said there would be no downside to going to the 14/14 vs the 12/12. I am glad I went with the 14/14, as now I won't have to replace hitch if I go a little heavier with the next trailer. It has performed great.

There would be no downside IF, and only IF your TT frame can handle a stiffer than needed bar. One of my TTs manuals stated what size bars were permissable, depending on how thick the frame was. That was back in 2001. TT frames have not gotten heavier duty since then.

As some have already said. The right size is the right size. If you want to go to a heavier bar than needed, and are OK with a stiffer ride....Be safe and check with your TT manufacturer first! You could avoid an expensive mistake.

[delwhjr]

Bigfoot2005 wrote:
Hey guys

Will be getting a new Imagine 2800BH next year and looking into getting a Equal-i-zer Hitch

I did the hitch size calculator on their website and it is telling me to get the 1400 lb version.

GTW - 7995 lbs
Tongue weight - Dry 604 lbs - Rough actual - 13% is 1039 lbs
Cargo weight in bed of truck - 400 lbs

Truck hitch says max is 1250 lbs

is 1400 lbs bars to stiff or should I go with the 1200 lb version

All figures are estimates but close

When I moved to my current trailer, I contacted Equal-i-zer on the question of which hitch. I was using a 1/10 and would need to go to at least the 12/12. The rep said there would be no downside to going to the 14/14 vs the 12/12. I am glad I went with the 14/14, as now I won't have to replace hitch if I go a little heavier with the next trailer. It has performed great.

[Lynnmor]

Hannibal wrote:
Stiffer bars put more stress on the A frame to chassis point of the trailer as well. Picture if the bars didn't give at all. The A frame would have to.

Yep, the bars are basically springs that need to flex, use the correct size.

[Hannibal]

Stiffer bars put more stress on the A frame to chassis point of the trailer as well. Picture if the bars didn't give at all. The A frame would have to. Unless it's built like a tank, you might be posting one day of a broken or bent A frame. I prefer no weight distribution but I'm over the weight limit for non WD. So I'm using as little as I can to pull the front of the TV about half way back to unloaded height. Tows like a champ.