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Exterior Laminate vs Aluminum

time_traveler1
Explorer
Explorer
I',m looking at buying a EVO 2360 old style aluminum siding with wood frame vs a Coachmen Freedom Express 24RBS with laminate siding and aluminum frame? Pros and Cons of each?

The trailer will be stored in the desert I was told the old style aluminum does better in the heat than they new laminate as far as fading etc...
21 REPLIES 21

wing_zealot
Explorer
Explorer
beemerphile1 wrote:
The has never been an aluminum sided trailer that delaminated from a water leak.
A fiberglass trailer has never had the fasteners come loose and cause the siding to sag, flap and leak.

The differences in them are mostly overblown hype mixed in with a generous portion of hot air. They both have their plusses and minuses, buy whatever works out best for you.

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
The has never been an aluminum sided trailer that delaminated from a water leak.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

buta4
Explorer
Explorer
Another plus for aluminum shell is the fact that it acts as a Faraday Cage for protection from lightening strikes. Can't vouch about on-board electronics though.
Ray

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
Mike Up wrote:


That was at the factory repair facility. They actually do preventive maintenance and standard repair, out of warrant, as well as warranty repairs.

So I'd say they were pretty competent.

.


I would say that that particular repair man was incompetent. a 6 inch crack, replace the wall, hog wash.
and yes I am fully aware as to the difference in construction.

P.S. It would be helpful to us if that particular manufacturer was identified so we could avoid purchasing any of their units.

bumpy

Mike_Up
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:
Mike Up wrote:

The same can't be said about laminated. I talked to a repairman replacing a whole wall of a laminated trailer because the owner cracked the wall. No it couldn't be fixed right and the wall itself was $4000 and the labor was another $4000 for a grand total of $8000!! Just for a 6" crack (all the way through front skin and backer) in the wall. .


a totally incompetent repair man IMHO. I certainly would believe that HE couldn't fix it right but any 6 inch crack in fiberglass can be mended to look like new. Had a friend who in the middle of the night ran his boat wide open onto a rock jetty on Lake Anna. tore it up, fixed up as good as new. don't listen to all the baloney in this thread.
bumpy


That was at the factory repair facility. They actually do preventive maintenance and standard repair, out of warrant, as well as warranty repairs.

So I'd say they were pretty competent.

A boat repair is nothing like an rv repair. Boats have standard thick shell fiberglass where an rv has a very very thin fiberglass skin glued to a very thin backer, glued to Styrofoam insulation and aluminum framing.
2019 Ford F150 XLT Sport, CC, 4WD, 145" WB, 3.5L Ecoboost, 10 speed, 3.55 9.75" Locking Axle, Max Tow, 1831# Payload, 10700# Tow Rating, pulling a 2020 Rockwood Premier 2716g, with a 14' box. Previous 2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH.

time_traveler1
Explorer
Explorer
I have the 5.7 engine

spoon059
Explorer II
Explorer II
time_traveler wrote:
Any insight on the Forest River EVO 2360 looking to how it with a 2015 Tundra. Max tow rating 9800 trailer is 5300 unloaded

Those numbers are unimportant. What will its LOADED TONGUE WEIGHT be and what is your PAYLOAD on the Tundra?

These are the important numbers for a half ton truck. If you have sufficient payload for the tongue weight, weight distribution hitch, family and any gear you intend to carry in the truck it should be fine. The 5.7 engine is a BEAST and will tow WAY more than the rest of the components can handle. I don't have experience with the 4.6.
2015 Ram CTD
2015 Jayco 29QBS

time_traveler1
Explorer
Explorer
Any insight on the Forest River EVO 2360 looking to how it with a 2015 Tundra. Max tow rating 9800 trailer is 5300 unloaded

time_traveler1
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the input.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
Mike Up wrote:

The same can't be said about laminated. I talked to a repairman replacing a whole wall of a laminated trailer because the owner cracked the wall. No it couldn't be fixed right and the wall itself was $4000 and the labor was another $4000 for a grand total of $8000!! Just for a 6" crack (all the way through front skin and backer) in the wall. .


a totally incompetent repair man IMHO. I certainly would believe that HE couldn't fix it right but any 6 inch crack in fiberglass can be mended to look like new. Had a friend who in the middle of the night ran his boat wide open onto a rock jetty on Lake Anna. tore it up, fixed up as good as new. don't listen to all the baloney in this thread.
bumpy

Mike_Up
Explorer
Explorer
Mickey_D wrote:
We are in Central Texas and get a LOT of hail (State Farm has replaced our 40 year hail resistant roof three times in the last 14 years). Our insurance agent said don't get a tin trailer here because it will just get whooped unless you keep it under something all the time. He said to get a glass one because they hold up a lot better in hail, and if they do get damaged very badly, they total them out and you go get a new one (as well as your home roof).

I have seen several trailers around here that have so many dents from hail that they just look sad, including an airstream that looked like a giant silver golf ball...


Here in NW Indiana, we get Thunderstorms and hail all the time unfortunately. I had hail damage on my previous 2008 Jay Flight 19BH. It had hail damage in 2012. It was not totaled but had significant hail damage.

It was rather easy to fix but parts cost was significant as molding and trim would all have to be replaced as it couldn't be reused with reliability. It was about $4000 for all 4 walls, Labor, and trim pieces. However there was no damage other than cosmetic and it really didn't look that bad. So it didn't have to be repaired at all.

The same can't be said about laminated. I talked to a repairman replacing a whole wall of a laminated trailer because the owner cracked the wall. No it couldn't be fixed right and the wall itself was $4000 and the labor was another $4000 for a grand total of $8000!! Just for a 6" crack (all the way through front skin and backer) in the wall. That was also in 2008 dollars which would had been a lot less expensive than the 2012 dollars that were on the hail damage I had.

So IMO, stick and tin still rules there. Also what about simple mistakes people make. I seen people back into the campsite number pillar and dent their aluminum siding. No repair needed, just an ugly spot. Do that with a laminated trailer wall that doesn't give, you'll be replacing the wall or have a bad attempt at a repair that won't hold and look bad.

Also with 'bad' hail damage, you'll end up breaking all skylites and essentially getting terrible rain water damage in the interior of the camper. Then no matter what walls it has, it may possibly be totaled out.

I'm still saying Stick and Tin is the best choice in 99.5% of situations. Just my take.
2019 Ford F150 XLT Sport, CC, 4WD, 145" WB, 3.5L Ecoboost, 10 speed, 3.55 9.75" Locking Axle, Max Tow, 1831# Payload, 10700# Tow Rating, pulling a 2020 Rockwood Premier 2716g, with a 14' box. Previous 2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH.

Mickey_D
Explorer
Explorer
We are in Central Texas and get a LOT of hail (State Farm has replaced our 40 year hail resistant roof three times in the last 14 years). Our insurance agent said don't get a tin trailer here because it will just get whooped unless you keep it under something all the time. He said to get a glass one because they hold up a lot better in hail, and if they do get damaged very badly, they total them out and you go get a new one (as well as your home roof).

I have seen several trailers around here that have so many dents from hail that they just look sad, including an airstream that looked like a giant silver golf ball...

atreis
Explorer
Explorer
There are pros and cons to each. Which you pick is up to you. (My trailer is 7 years old, and has laminated walls, roof, and floor. It has no delamination, no leaks, and no issues with any of those items. I can, and do at least twice a year, walk on the roof.)

Pros for each:
- Aluminum weighs less (all else being equal).
- Aluminum costs less (all else being equal).
- Aluminum can be replaced, but it's most likely not a DIY task.
- IMO, aluminum usually looks nicer in older trailers.
- Laminated can be significantly better insulated.
- Laminated is stronger (all else being equal) - the wall itself is structural rather than just the framing.
- Laminated can look nicer when new/clean/maintained.

Cons:
- Aluminum dents very easily, and can't really be undented.
- Aluminum can make it hard to detect a leak within the walls until it gets to the point of the framing having rotted.
- Aluminum trailers are usually insulated with fiberglass batting, and there can be significant gaps in the insulation due to quick/low quality construction, as well as settling within the walls over time.
- Laminated will delaminate if there is a leak. If you notice and fix the leak quickly this isn't necessarily a serious issue, but if not it can be.
- Laminated trailers can be repaired but it's costly, difficult, and visible.
- Seems harder to maintain the good looks of laminated walls.

I've been very happy with my laminated trailer, but actually prefer aluminum due to the lighter weight. At the time I bought mine though, there weren't any aluminum sided hybrids available with a floorplan I liked. (There are now.)

Buy the floorplan you like, then take care of the trailer, and you'll be fine with either one.
2021 Four Winds 26B on Chevy 4500

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
I've never had anything aluminum rot out. a tin side after a hail storm is rubbish.
bumpy