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Furnace

Barry_J
Explorer
Explorer
We had taken out our sleeper couch, which is where the furnace is situated.
Now I want to โ€œbox-inโ€ the furnace.
Is there any ventilation I need or can I just box it in.
I plan on using screws so that I can get to it if needed.
Thanks
Barry
10 REPLIES 10

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
Ride S40T wrote:
There's no ventilation for ours. There's a futon over the ducted system with a wood base. Believe all the air/gas fun stuff happens outside the RV...in that vent.

We're thinking of doing the same, we'll measure the pieces taken out (with no vents) and replace with the same dimensions.

In the end, contact your manufacturer and they'll likely guide you.


No, the combustion air (where the fire us burning) is all done outside.

But, for the furnace to work it has to draw air from inside the RV (or home) then heat it and then return it to the RV or home. Some how your furnace is getting air from inside the RV.

It's just sucking it around cracks and fabric around the Futon.

Your furnace might actually work better if you allowed it to have more air movement.

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
I would get the model number and go to BryantRV and download the manual. It should tell you the minimum spec for the return air.
Bryant RV
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
Combustion air is drawn in from outside, and exhaust gases go outside. But the furnace requires return air from inside the living space.
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
MUST have a return air inlet of a min. size spec'd by the furnace manufacturer. Also must have min. clearances to sides and top, also as per specs.

Barry_J
Explorer
Explorer
I have an Atwood Hydro Flame it is in a 2003 Four Winds 29F. Dutchman.
It has floor vents.

Barry

PNW_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
The air inlet should have the same, or larger cross sectional area as the outlet duct.
2004.5 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, NV5400, 5" turbo back stainless exhaust, Edger programmer & 22.5 Alcoa's
2002 Forest River 36 5th Wheel (staying home)
1992 Jayco 29 5th Wheel (Mexico veteran & headed back)
2002 "faux" Wanderlodge 40' My new toy....

prichardson
Explorer
Explorer
The room air that is to be heated must get to the furnace. As mobeewan said furnaces mounted under couches get their return air from spaces that are left open under and around the couch. If you box the furnace area the size of the opening for return air will be depend on the furnace capacity.

Ride_S40T
Explorer
Explorer
There's no ventilation for ours. There's a futon over the ducted system with a wood base. Believe all the air/gas fun stuff happens outside the RV...in that vent.

We're thinking of doing the same, we'll measure the pieces taken out (with no vents) and replace with the same dimensions.

In the end, contact your manufacturer and they'll likely guide you.
2021 Grand Design 268BH
2019 GMC Sierra Denali HD 3500 SRW
Traveling K9s Diesel and Roger

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
Typically a furnace with ducted outlets in an RV has a metal louvered plate mounted on the cabinet facing somewhere near the furnace. This allows the free flow of air back to the furnace intake. There is no direct air duct back to the furnace like in a house. There is no filter to change either. Being under the couch like yours there is probably enough air flow getting back to the furnace inlet. If you box it in you will need to leave an opening in the box and add a grill to the opening. The grill and opening will need to be sized to ensure enough air is getting to the furnace intake.

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
It needs substantial return air. I suggest you google for the installation manual for your model for the requirements.
-- Chris Bryant