cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Hauling wood on rear hitch

bigtime_077
Explorer
Explorer
Hey all,

Trying to compare my notes to last year camping when we had our hybrid. We now have a travel trailer and I am looking at doing some modifications to make hauling things a little easier. In the past we hauled our bikes in the camper and wood in the bed of the truck along with my folding bbq grill.

With the 5.5' bed I am a little concerned with the ability to haul the bikes and wood in there at the same time. Not sure if putting the bikes in the camper is an option because with the slide in there isn't really any floor space.

I always thought about it with the hybrid but there really wasn't anything to the rear frame so I scratched it but I am thinking about putting a hitch on the rear of the TT. This has an I-beam frame all the way back. I was going to weld together an actual receiver, not bumper mount, and bolt this to the frame of the trailer. I was going to drill a hole in the bottom of the receiver and weld a nut in there to be able to use a bolt to tighten down on the hitch carrier. So that was my plan was to use my hitch carrier that goes into a 2" receiver to haul my firewood on the back of the camper.

Now I know without a doubt that the actual welded hitch receiver bolted to the I-beam frame will support the weight of the wood.

My only concern is as you add weight to the rear of the camper it will essentially remove tongue weight from the trailer dependent on the position of the trailer axles in relation to the rest of the trailer, how much leverage the weight has. My axles are at a position in which approximately two-thirds of the trailer is in front of the axles. So what I am thinking is you put for sake of argument if I had 300# on the rear that it would essentially remove 100# of tongue weight all other things being equal. Reason I am looking to do the firewood is because I want to be able to lock the bikes under the tonneau cover and not be hauling wood in the bed of the truck if we go sight seeing.

So my thoughts to combat the effects of the weight on the back was to add a link to my weight distribution bars if I am hauling the wood on the back or just loading more supplies to the front of the camper to counter the weight.
55 REPLIES 55

jaycocreek
Explorer II
Explorer II
I get firewood to sell and heat our house, lots of wood around here so no need to take it.But,I helped a guy that sells it to stores and campgrounds in bundles.What a rip off...I would be taking it too.

Lance 9.6
400 watts solar mounted/200 watts portable
500ah Lifep04

W_E_BGood
Explorer
Explorer
"I don`t see anything in there about how to load firewood on the back of a trailer!"

Since it came up as part of the discussion and there were some questioning issues, I just thought I'd simply add a reference to a source of facts. (which at times tends to be lacking in some discussions). Sorry for the intrusion dodgeboy :R

Regards, BGood

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
W.E.BGood wrote:
HERE is a good source of information on the transport of firewood.


I don`t see anything in there about how to load firewood on the back of a trailer!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

W_E_BGood
Explorer
Explorer
HERE is a good source of information on the transport of firewood.

Carluvr
Explorer
Explorer
We use two big totes that sit nicely on a platform plugged into the receiver on the back of our trailer. We mostly bring smaller pieces of wood, 2x4's, or kindling which doesn't weigh much. The center of gravity is pretty low so there's minimal movement and having the wood back there comes in very handy when parked at a campsite. If I do bring larger chunks, it' usually just a few and they ride in the back of the truck. We have a large family and our pickup has a canopy so everything ends up getting drug to the back tailgate area of the truck over the course of a weekend making it difficult to get things like wood out of the bed.
Just our experience.....:)
1999 Fleetwood Prowler 822L
1995 Chevrolet Z-71
1996 GMC Suburban

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
+1 on finding a local wood mill. This is what I did this season because I could easily stop at Lowe's and buy cured/dried cheap wood without any chemicals added. I've had good luck with 2x4s and 4x4s, provided they are cut to a decent length. A friend of mine has a biomass compactor he made himself that he uses with sawdust to make compacted briquettes that burn well.

For starting a fire, I'd also consider wood pellets. Some pet stores sell those as kitty litter, and (assuming they are 100% pellets with no chemicals) they also are a big help in getting a fire going.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Sounds like you have the metal working figured out.

I'd suggest to keep your eyes out for new construction sites in your area, residential sites are the easiest to get close to. Stop and ask someone if you can pick up some scrap. Most crews are OK with it as long as you aren't in the way or doing gymnastics in the dumpster. Some guys want you to remove scrap as it is weight that they pay to dispose. It used to be that 15% of wood delivered to a typical home build gets cycled into a dumpster. That figure has dropped some but it's still a lot of waste. Lumber that has been kiln dried (everything from a construction site) can be legally transported and burned. Steer clear of treated or painted wood, it is not that wonderful for campfires.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you want to see how to really do it, take a look at what Nash does on their TTs. VERY skookum and impressive. But their frames are built-in house and are heavy duty/off road. Still, might give a person some ideas.

Good luck and don't forget to post pics of what you do. ๐Ÿ™‚

bigtime_077 wrote:
Yes I agree. Whatever I put back there will be attached to a hitch that will be secured to the I-beam frame of the travel trailer, not the bumper.

bigtime_077
Explorer
Explorer
Yes I agree. Whatever I put back there will be attached to a hitch that will be secured to the I-beam frame of the travel trailer, not the bumper.

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you can see the rear of the TT bob up and down in your mirror while travelling, if adding a bike rack at the rear, you might want to consider adding shocks to the trailer. We had shocks installed on ours and now the trailer hardly moves up and down and is almost a steady flatline. I've about about bikes being thrown clear off a rack at the rear...

There are still cautionary notes on a rear bike rack. Suggest a little googling. It depends a lot on how it is attached. Just to the bumper is not good as the bumpers have been known to break right off.

Not trying to be negative, just being the messenger of things I've read on forums. ๐Ÿ˜‰

BurbMan wrote:
BigTime, I was at 14% tongue weight too, so I didn't think that a little added weight in the back would hurt. I mainly wanted a "trunk" to keep the generator out of the weather and a place for the blocks, cords, hoses, etc. I need to get re-weighed at some point and see how the weight re-distributed.

If you are going to haul the bikes on the back of the TT, make sure you have a sturdy structure attached to the frame and not just the bumper. It's not the weight of the bikes per se but the bouncing effect going down the road. If you ever sat in the last row of the school bus on a bumpy road you klnow what I'm talking about.

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
BigTime, I was at 14% tongue weight too, so I didn't think that a little added weight in the back would hurt. I mainly wanted a "trunk" to keep the generator out of the weather and a place for the blocks, cords, hoses, etc. I need to get re-weighed at some point and see how the weight re-distributed.

If you are going to haul the bikes on the back of the TT, make sure you have a sturdy structure attached to the frame and not just the bumper. It's not the weight of the bikes per se but the bouncing effect going down the road. If you ever sat in the last row of the school bus on a bumpy road you klnow what I'm talking about.

bigtime_077
Explorer
Explorer
Well after reading your responses maybe I should look at putting the wood in the bed of the truck and the bikes on the back. Or maybe I need to look at just buying the wood at the campground too. We use to do that when we had our trailblazer. Just looking at a way to maybe make hauling it easier but maybe the easiest is seeing what I can fit in the truck bed.

boosTT
Explorer
Explorer
I wouldn't carry wood in plain view... Its frowned upon (even where legal).

Most campgrounds are accommodating and don't gauge you on wood prices.

jaycocreek
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would just put the wood and bikes in the truck.I have a 5.5 bed and don't worry about weight.I have more faith in my truck and carrying weight than I do the trailer rear.

If you have a ladder rack on the rear, put the bikes on that....Seen quite a few rear haulers welded to the trailer frame bent from bouncing with more weight there than should be.Home grown units, not factory.
Lance 9.6
400 watts solar mounted/200 watts portable
500ah Lifep04

bigtime_077
Explorer
Explorer
BurbMan wrote:
Hi there, good points on firewood. I know IN doesn't allow firewood in from other states. But back on topic, assuming you wanted to add storage to the back of your TT.

Here's how I added storage to the back of my trailer.

Regarding the weight transfer, your math is a little off. The "moment" or the force exterted, is equal to the weight x the distance to the fulcrum. In your case the fulcrum is the axles. You say your axles are 2/3 of the way back on the trailer....so the distance from the axles forward to the tongue is twice the distance from the axles back to the bumper. That means that 300 lbs added to the back will reduce tongue weight by 150 lbs, NOT 100.


Thanks for the link. Also very nice job on the platform. I had a suspicion that my math was a little off but nevertheless I did figure I had to take that weight in effect for reduction of tongue weight. As the camper sits right now after weighing the tongue weight I am at 14% tongue weight so I thought if I gave up even 150# of tongue weight I would still be at almost 12%. I think 300# is an exageration because I really don't haul that much fire wood.