Is it OK to weld Tie Downs to Frame

[Mike3]

Due to the after market bed and air bags on my truck Torklift does not have Tie down tubes to fit my truck. I found someone who can fabricate them and then weld them to the frame. Is this safe to do?

I've read where some people say it can weaken the integrity of the frame rails and others saying they have done it many times. Also, it sounds like shorting out the electronics could be an issue.

If anyone has experience with this I could use some help.

Thanks

[jefe_4x4]

What about using squared U-bolts? There are many aftermarket apps for these and come in a large variety of sizes and strengths. My Dodge manual says, "Weld nothing to the frame". GM also advises against welding on any of their truck frames mostly for fear of frying the electronics.
That being said, I have welded many times on my CJ8 frame because it cracked, over and over. Many of these frame plates and patches were done on the trail with my on board welder not because i wanted to but because I had to. My friend Mark who had a CJ8 also had BOTH sides of his front frame horns simultaneously snap in two on the trail, right where the shock towers were bolted to the frame (those weak bolt hole areas). That stopped our parade for a while.
Look for a mechanical, bolt-on-without-extra-bolt-holes solution.
jefe

[covered_wagon]

Jaxom wrote:
Please stop YELLING

What make, model & year was that 1998 camper on?

I like big letters. I can read it with ease. It's only crabby guys that don't get in enough camping that consider it 'yell' letters :B

[Jaxom]

Please stop YELLING

What make, model & year was that 1998 camper on?

[cigar_100]

ON MY FIRST TC I HAD WELDED SQUARE TUBING UNDER THE RAILS ATTACHED WITH TWO TABS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRAME RAILS. I NEVER HAD AN ISSUE AND HAULED A 1998 REAL LITE 1230 AROUND FOR 12 YEARS. GOOD LUCK, BUT BEWARE OF BRAKE LINES AN ANY ELECTRICAL IN THE WAY.

[okan-star]

Mike@Asheville wrote:
Thanks guys. Some good suggestions. I have a couple of people investigating how to make it work without welding. My 2004 F450 frame rails are 34" apart as it was ordered as a cab/chasis vs 37" for traditional pickups. That plus a big rear frame with airbags and a custom receiver hitch make it more difficult. Hopefully someone will figure it out.

Maybe its been discussed in your many recent posts but is your bed longer than a stock bed , and if it is will the camper be able to be all the way forward in the bed, and if not will that affect where you locate the tiedowns ?

[Mike3]

Thanks guys. Some good suggestions. I have a couple of people investigating how to make it work without welding. My 2004 F450 frame rails are 34" apart as it was ordered as a cab/chasis vs 37" for traditional pickups. That plus a big rear frame with airbags and a custom receiver hitch make it more difficult. Hopefully someone will figure it out.

[PRodacy]

I work with metallurgists daily and asked their opinion. Turns out that the older vehicles used alloys that could be safely welded. Vehicles made in the past 15 years or so should not be welded on. The heat will seriously weaken the frame. Drilling the frame and using bolts will not weaken the frame unless you get carried away and drill multiple holes in a small area. Best way is to use existing holes or make a bracket that can clamp around the frame rail, similar to a U-bolt assembly that holds your spring to the axle.

[markowwes]

Do not weld on your frame!!!! It is heat treated metal!!!don’t even torch cut holes…only drill in side, not top or bottom web.

[covered_wagon]

If it were my truck there would be no to drilling nor welding to the frame.

I would have bigger steel plates added to the torklifts mounting plate in order to capture existing frame holes. Drill the plate to match the frames holes not drill the frame to match the torklifts holes.

[JumboJet]

I took a Torklift front set for a 2008 Dodge RAM and modified them to bolt around the frame on my 2013 RAM.

I do have a complete metal working shop and it was a breeze to convert.

A good welding shop should have no problem making a suitable modification for you. Pick up a pair and go for it!

I have a SuperHitch on the rear and built my own tie downs as well as my own Sooper Truss.

[kohldad]

I do not see where the standard torklift would not work for your application. You would need to get the ones which are adjustable.

Reason I say this is the front will mount to the frame and push up against the bed support. Since both of these items should be identical regardless of if you have standard or custom bed.

The rear mounts to the hitch plates which again are the same.

What I would do is order the torklifts and try to get them to work as is. If necessary, a little bit of modification can be accomplished.

I'm still curious, how do you plan on getting the camper past the rear of the custom bed? Since it is fibergrlass, cutting an opening really isn't an option.

In regards to the welding on the frame, if done properly it will not weaken it. Problem is most folks don't know the technique and/or don't have the patience. Therefore, I wouldn't weld to the frame. As far as the electronics, it is only necessary to be extra careful making sure to have a very good ground connection as close to the weld as possible.

[Tamnative]

Find your truck here and read what they recommend :https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/mission.html

[wintersun]

For truck frames a commercial DC arc welder will work in terms of generating a deep enough weld to hold together. If you have welded truck frames for a living then go for it. But a 1/2" Grade 5 bolt is strong enough and provides for removal of the tie-downs later by you or the next owner.

The tie-downs each only need to resist 300 lbs. of pulling force from the camper. Having the turnbuckles tighter than that and the anchor plates start to pull out of most campers.

[cewillis]

I've read where some people say it can weaken the integrity of the frame rails and others saying they have done it many times.

There you go -- still the case.