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It's too hot! AC quit.

1995brave
Nomad
Nomad
2012 Ram went to work Friday morning AC working great. Got out of work 9 hours later (98 degrees out) started up the truck, turned on the AC knew it would take a little while to cool down, drove all the way home and it never cooled down. Picked up one of the recharge kits with low pressure gauge. Followed directions, compressor turning on, gauge shows in the green, high side line getting very hot, not getting cold. Picking up full set of gauges tomorrow from HF to check out high side pressure. Any ideas on what could be stopping it from working? Did a google search with no real help everything was for Gen 2 and 4 Rams, mine is Gen 4.
26 REPLIES 26

blt2ski
Moderator
Moderator
Closing per OP request. Has his issue solved.

Marty
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
2014 Chevy 1500 Dual cab 4x4
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer

Huntindog
Explorer
Explorer
marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:
When I flush a system it’s professional grade flush solvents one way, then the other way then one more time, all with 120 psi.
Each major component separate , ie: evap, condenser.
Blow through till you can’t smell anything. Make sure ther is ample air flow through suspected parts, no blockage.
Vac it down for 2 hours then check for leak back.

90% chance it will be good.


And that means a 10% chance it won't.

This is not a small risk, as a failure will mean replacing EVERYTHING again.

AC is not an area where it can be "good enough". It has to be PERFECTLY clean.

Anything left in the system will cause it to fail.

Your money, your choice
Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW

Huntindog
Explorer
Explorer
colliehauler wrote:
Just curious Huntindog wouldn't any remaining flush solvent boil out when you put a vacuum on the system?
No. Yes the liquid component will disappear. But it will leave behind a dry residue, which then will be carried thru the system with the refrigerent.

The safest way to flush is to use a refrigerent flushing machine. But few have them as they are quite expensive. My GM shop manual states that this is the ONLY acceptable procedure.
Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW

marcsbigfoot20b
Explorer
Explorer
When I flush a system it’s professional grade flush solvents one way, then the other way then one more time, all with 120 psi.
Each major component separate , ie: evap, condenser.
Blow through till you can’t smell anything. Make sure ther is ample air flow through suspected parts, no blockage.
Vac it down for 2 hours then check for leak back.

90% chance it will be good.

colliehauler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just curious Huntindog wouldn't any remaining flush solvent boil out when you put a vacuum on the system?

colliehauler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just had my fan clutch, condenser, hoses, drier, and compressor on my 06 Ford replaced. They flushed the evaporator. The only way they would warranty the compressor was to replace the drier and condenser. They said the condenser was a parallel design and no way to flush contaminates out of it. Was told not a issue to flush the evaporator.

If anyone should know A/C it would probably be a resident of Arizona. :B

Huntindog
Explorer
Explorer
transamz9 wrote:
Huntindog wrote:
transamz9 wrote:
Huntindog wrote:
My advice? Having done this a few times is to replace EVERYTHING!

If you try to flush parts, it can be impossible to be sure that you got all of the flush out. Flush is a solvent. Any left in the system will soon cause it to fail.

You need everything, including the evaporator and condenser.

Do it right, or do it twice.


I've never had a problem flushing the Evap.
Every time you do it, you are rolling the dice.
It is impossible to know for sure if it is clean, or if there is ..... stuff still in it.
It is a high stakes decision, as the price of being wrong can be astronomical.


Evap is not hard. I have a flush can that you pressurize and use a/c flush. It's a lot better than taking the dash all the way to the fire wall and then having to take the HVAC box completely apart to just get to the evap to replace. I've done it because of evap leaking but if it's not leaking I'm not changing it out.10 years of doing this with zero issues.

I have flushed some as well with mixed results.
Often you can still smell the flush, even after running 60 psi shop air thru it for an hour. If you have ever cut open an evaporator, it is obvious as to why it can never be flushed with 100% certainty. There are many passages the flush, or refrigerant can take. If a passage has restriction, it will simply use another passage..... leaving bad stuff in the evaporator. Once the system is up and running, the debri and or leftover flush contaminates the entire system causing a compressor failure, and requiring all parts to be replaced again.

As I said before, it is a roll of the dice. I no longer take that bet. The price of the evaporator is usually less than 200.00, and the labor is whatever it takes.
Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW

transamz9
Explorer
Explorer
Huntindog wrote:
transamz9 wrote:
Huntindog wrote:
My advice? Having done this a few times is to replace EVERYTHING!

If you try to flush parts, it can be impossible to be sure that you got all of the flush out. Flush is a solvent. Any left in the system will soon cause it to fail.

You need everything, including the evaporator and condenser.

Do it right, or do it twice.


I've never had a problem flushing the Evap.
Every time you do it, you are rolling the dice.
It is impossible to know for sure if it is clean, or if there is ..... stuff still in it.
It is a high stakes decision, as the price of being wrong can be astronomical.


Evap is not hard. I have a flush can that you pressurize and use a/c flush. It's a lot better than taking the dash all the way to the fire wall and then having to take the HVAC box completely apart to just get to the evap to replace. I've done it because of evap leaking but if it's not leaking I'm not changing it out.10 years of doing this with zero issues.
2016 Ram 3500 Mega Cab Limited/2013 Ram 3500 SRW Cummins(sold)/2005 RAM 2500 Cummins/2011 Sandpiper 345 RET (sold) 2015 Sanibel 3601/2008 Nitro Z9 Mercury 250 PRO XS the best motor made.

falconbrother
Explorer II
Explorer II
Just as a side note.. I had a buddy who's son was a poor college kid. The compressor quit in his sons car so he drove down there (Wilmington NC) and replaced that compressor in the rain. He didn't draw it down or anything, just added refrigerant. The new compressor lasted one year almost to the day.

1995brave
Nomad
Nomad
Truck is cold again!
Got all the parts in Saturday afternoon. Replaced the condenser and compressor. Since I could not replace the evaporator and expansion valve without removing the dash(over 5 hours)I flushed them and all the hoses. Put a vacuum on it and let it pull for 30 minutes. Shut it off and let it sit for another 30 minutes vacuum never changed. Started charging up the system took 1 and 3/4 cans of Freon (22ozs). How's that song go "Cold as Ice" The compressor blew an internal seal.

Huntindog
Explorer
Explorer
transamz9 wrote:
Huntindog wrote:
My advice? Having done this a few times is to replace EVERYTHING!

If you try to flush parts, it can be impossible to be sure that you got all of the flush out. Flush is a solvent. Any left in the system will soon cause it to fail.

You need everything, including the evaporator and condenser.

Do it right, or do it twice.


I've never had a problem flushing the Evap.
Every time you do it, you are rolling the dice.
It is impossible to know for sure if it is clean, or if there is ..... stuff still in it.
It is a high stakes decision, as the price of being wrong can be astronomical.
Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW

Charlie_D_
Explorer
Explorer
Buddy had his AC go out. Compressor failed and put debris throughout the system. AC shop replaced everything, said they flushed it. Worked for a few days, failed again. More debris. After the third failure took it to another place. Said residual debris that can not be gotten out caused the failure. They replaced everything. Works fine after a year. Could be that he was unlucky? I do know of many home AC units that have failed and a flush and repair that has led to long term service. Internals are different.
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transamz9
Explorer
Explorer
Huntindog wrote:
My advice? Having done this a few times is to replace EVERYTHING!

If you try to flush parts, it can be impossible to be sure that you got all of the flush out. Flush is a solvent. Any left in the system will soon cause it to fail.

You need everything, including the evaporator and condenser.

Do it right, or do it twice.


I've never had a problem flushing the Evap.
2016 Ram 3500 Mega Cab Limited/2013 Ram 3500 SRW Cummins(sold)/2005 RAM 2500 Cummins/2011 Sandpiper 345 RET (sold) 2015 Sanibel 3601/2008 Nitro Z9 Mercury 250 PRO XS the best motor made.

Huntindog
Explorer
Explorer
My advice? Having done this a few times is to replace EVERYTHING!

If you try to flush parts, it can be impossible to be sure that you got all of the flush out. Flush is a solvent. Any left in the system will soon cause it to fail.

You need everything, including the evaporator and condenser.

Do it right, or do it twice.
Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW