KZ Connect C231RBKSE Refrigerator Quit Working

[Surgtech94]

Just a rant! We used our camper once, everything was fine, came home for a few days before the next trip and refrigerator isn’t working. Dealer can’t get It in till week of the 11th. We’re going this weekend and going to use coolers and outside fridge. Anyone else have this issue? Disappointing with something brand new but I understand things happen.

[Surgtech94]

TT goes back in for service. Refrigerator quit working. Plugged it in Wednesday night, got cold, cold Thursday morning. Arrived at campsite and all was fine till today, everything thawed in the freezer and refrigerator section not cold, had to throw out meat and salads, beverages were warm. Camper is level, nothing changed since Thursday, it was a little warmer today but that’s it. Woke up fridge is warm. Green on light flashes to red then green

[deltabravo]

Lynnmor wrote:
When discussing an item in an RV, use the brand and model number of that item, the model of the RV is useless.

Ditto.

Youtube is an awesome resource for troubleshooting info.

[wnjj]

Surgtech94 wrote:
Woke up this morning at camp and the refrigerator is cold and freezer is working
Unbelievable? Once we get home I’m going to get a pigtail type of 30 to 15 adapter And not use the little black adapter.

How long are you waiting between turning on the fridge and checking how cold it is? It can take up to 24 hours to get cold.

[Surgtech94]

Woke up this morning at camp and the refrigerator is cold and freezer is working
Unbelievable? Once we get home I’m going to get a pigtail type of 30 to 15 adapter And not use the little black adapter.

[Gdetrailer]

Surgtech94 wrote:
Wasn’t cold this morning. We’re up camping and refrigerator sounds like it’s running, freezer compartment is cold but refrigerator section is warm, freezer is only cold like the fridge should be

Explain "sounds like it's running".

Absorbsion fridges have no compressor to make noise when running, they are basically silent under normal operation.

Yours may have a set of 12V fans behind the fridge to "help" with fridge operation but those do not really cause the cooling to happen and are not part of the fridge but an add on by manufacturer..

If you are hearing bubbling or gurgling you are out of level or fridge has internal blockage or in extreme cases cracked/ruptured cooling unit (but you will smell the strong odor of Ammonia while operating if a leak has occurred).

[Surgtech94]

Wasn’t cold this morning. We’re up camping and refrigerator sounds like it’s running, freezer compartment is cold but refrigerator section is warm, freezer is only cold like the fridge should be

[wnjj]

Surgtech94 wrote:

wnjj wrote:

Surgtech94 wrote:
Thank you. I will level it. The dealer told us to turn the battery off when at home I. The driveway and turn it on when we’re traveling and turned on at the campsite? I made sure the cord to the camper was plugged in and the ring tightened. It’s just weird when it was plugged in Thursday and it got cold and was cold yesterday and then this morning it was warm.

The suggestion to turn off the battery was assuming two things:

1. You aren't "using" it at home (i.e. fridge is off)
2. You aren't plugged in.

Turn the battery on unless your trailer is in storage. While you can use the 12V power from the 120V AC->12V DC converter when the 120V power cord is plugged in, it's possible the converter may need a battery in the circuit to smooth out the 12V. If the converter is making a noisy 12V supply with the battery off the fridge control board may be glitching out and shutting off.

Thank you. I turned the battery o yesterday afternoon and had refrigerator on and nothing this morning. Only thing we’ve been using at home is one of the little black cord adapters, I switched it out to a different one. I’ve seen the 30 to 15 pigtail type of cords, don’t know if these are any different or better? I also tried running it off propane this morning and it wouldn’t work. Just went to red light after about 30 seconds

By “nothing this morning” do you mean it didn’t get cold on AC power? Was the plug icon kit up? You need to wait several hours to see if it is getting cold. If the red light was not on solid and the plug icon was lit, try waiting awhile.

If you switched to gas and got the red light that means it didn’t light on gas. Did you first run a burner on the stove for 20-30 seconds to make sure the gas is on and purged? Even after doing that I usually have to power off and back on my fridge the first time starting on gas to finish purging the gas line to the fridge. You may have to try starting up on gas 2-3 times.

Many on here will insist that the puck style 15 to 30 adapters are terrible but I’ve been using one for 15 years without issue. If you run heaving electrical loads a lot (e.g. A/C) you might want one of the dog bone style with the little cord between them because it separates the connectors which allows for better heat dissipation at the connections.

[Surgtech94]

wnjj wrote:

Surgtech94 wrote:
Thank you. I will level it. The dealer told us to turn the battery off when at home I. The driveway and turn it on when we’re traveling and turned on at the campsite? I made sure the cord to the camper was plugged in and the ring tightened. It’s just weird when it was plugged in Thursday and it got cold and was cold yesterday and then this morning it was warm.

The suggestion to turn off the battery was assuming two things:

1. You aren't "using" it at home (i.e. fridge is off)
2. You aren't plugged in.

Turn the battery on unless your trailer is in storage. While you can use the 12V power from the 120V AC->12V DC converter when the 120V power cord is plugged in, it's possible the converter may need a battery in the circuit to smooth out the 12V. If the converter is making a noisy 12V supply with the battery off the fridge control board may be glitching out and shutting off.

Thank you. I turned the battery o yesterday afternoon and had refrigerator on and nothing this morning. Only thing we’ve been using at home is one of the little black cord adapters, I switched it out to a different one. I’ve seen the 30 to 15 pigtail type of cords, don’t know if these are any different or better? I also tried running it off propane this morning and it wouldn’t work. Just went to red light after about 30 seconds

[wnjj]

Surgtech94 wrote:
Thank you. I will level it. The dealer told us to turn the battery off when at home I. The driveway and turn it on when we’re traveling and turned on at the campsite? I made sure the cord to the camper was plugged in and the ring tightened. It’s just weird when it was plugged in Thursday and it got cold and was cold yesterday and then this morning it was warm.

The suggestion to turn off the battery was assuming two things:

1. You aren't "using" it at home (i.e. fridge is off)
2. You aren't plugged in.

Turn the battery on unless your trailer is in storage. While you can use the 12V power from the 120V AC->12V DC converter when the 120V power cord is plugged in, it's possible the converter may need a battery in the circuit to smooth out the 12V. If the converter is making a noisy 12V supply with the battery off the fridge control board may be glitching out and shutting off.

[Surgtech94]

Gdetrailer wrote:

Surgtech94 wrote:
Thanks everyone. But this refrigerator thing is a big headache.

It didn’t get cold at home, but went camping plugged it in and ice cold. Took it into the dealer, it got cold no problems.

Tomorrow we’re heading out and I plugged it in Thursday afternoon, got cold, yesterday was cold. Went out and checked it this morning and it’s warm. ??? So I plugged it into another outlet and waiting.

The battery is turned off like we were told when it’s parked in the driveway. I had the refrigerator on Auto Electric. The 3 options are Auto Electric, Electric and Propane.

We did get some rain during the night but no lightning and no power loss. It’s humid now.

I’m at a loss?

OK, Works at dealer.

Works at campground.

Does not work in your driveway..

How "level" is your driveway?

Very few driveways are level, some more out of level than others.



If your level bubbles are not inside the lines like the phot above, you are operating the fridge out of level.

In spite of what the fridge manufacturer may state (and lots of folks on this forum) RV absorbsion fridges do not work well or at all once you get part of the bubble outside the lines (out of level operation).

When camping, you obviously had your RV fairly level.

When at the dealer, fair chance the trailer was sitting on fairly level spot..

Level the RV, plug in your shore cord, make sure you have 120V at the fridge, leave the battery turned on, wait 12hrs and check to see if fridge is cooling.

Thank you. I will level it. The dealer told us to turn the battery off when at home I. The driveway and turn it on when we’re traveling and turned on at the campsite? I made sure the cord to the camper was plugged in and the ring tightened. It’s just weird when it was plugged in Thursday and it got cold and was cold yesterday and then this morning it was warm.

[Gdetrailer]

Surgtech94 wrote:
Thanks everyone. But this refrigerator thing is a big headache.

It didn’t get cold at home, but went camping plugged it in and ice cold. Took it into the dealer, it got cold no problems.

Tomorrow we’re heading out and I plugged it in Thursday afternoon, got cold, yesterday was cold. Went out and checked it this morning and it’s warm. ??? So I plugged it into another outlet and waiting.

The battery is turned off like we were told when it’s parked in the driveway. I had the refrigerator on Auto Electric. The 3 options are Auto Electric, Electric and Propane.

We did get some rain during the night but no lightning and no power loss. It’s humid now.

I’m at a loss?

OK, Works at dealer.

Works at campground.

Does not work in your driveway..

How "level" is your driveway?

Very few driveways are level, some more out of level than others.



If your level bubbles are not inside the lines like the phot above, you are operating the fridge out of level.

In spite of what the fridge manufacturer may state (and lots of folks on this forum) RV absorbsion fridges do not work well or at all once you get part of the bubble outside the lines (out of level operation).

When camping, you obviously had your RV fairly level.

When at the dealer, fair chance the trailer was sitting on fairly level spot..

Level the RV, plug in your shore cord, make sure you have 120V at the fridge, leave the battery turned on, wait 12hrs and check to see if fridge is cooling.

[Surgtech94]

Thanks everyone. But this refrigerator thing is a big headache.

It didn’t get cold at home, but went camping plugged it in and ice cold. Took it into the dealer, it got cold no problems.

Tomorrow we’re heading out and I plugged it in Thursday afternoon, got cold, yesterday was cold. Went out and checked it this morning and it’s warm. ??? So I plugged it into another outlet and waiting.

The battery is turned off like we were told when it’s parked in the driveway. I had the refrigerator on Auto Electric. The 3 options are Auto Electric, Electric and Propane.

We did get some rain during the night but no lightning and no power loss. It’s humid now.

I’m at a loss?

[2112]

I'm glad to hear you got it working. Did the dealer provide an explanation of why it wasn't working for you?

Do yourself a favor and buy a decent voltmeter for troubleshooting such issues. Don't buy the cheapest and you don't need the most expensive. $30 will get you a decent DMM. It will help us help you in the future.

[Surgtech94]

Kampfirekid wrote:
We just replaced our Norcold in a 9 month old trailer. It was a 12v only fridge. The compressor went out. I’m surprised the OP had a electric/gas/battery fridge in a newer model KZ. All we’ve seen is 12v only units when looking.

Ours is only a gas/electric refrigerator. I don’t see a battery indicator as an option. Anyways. The dealer checked it all out and couldn’t find anything wrong. It’s cold 32 degrees