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Lance Wiring Harness Ideas?

2Gordons
Explorer
Explorer
Hello All:

I am changing my wiring harness out for the power/ground/directionals on my Lance camper (truck side).

Here is my situation: We rotate between a GN LQ horse-trailer, a bumper-pull horse trailer, and our Lance- depending on how we are camping, and if the horses come along. It's a flexible setup that covers a lot of options with our F-350.

We have a 7-pin under the bumper, and a 7-pin in the bed of the truck, at the back. Up until a month ago, we had the Lance harness receiver in the bed at the front. I pulled it out when I was chasing brake-light gremlins, and feared it was part of the problem, since it was the only non-PNP part of the equation... Turned out to be the multi-function switch in the steering column went bad on us.

I would like to make a pigtail (7-pin male on one end, Lance 6-pin female on the other) that would allow me to utilize the 7-pin receptacle at the back of the bed.

My concern is the 8-ga requirement for the 12V and the ground. I am not sure of the need for this- as I assume the factory wiring harness on the truck doesn't have this... I would like to keep the Lance (camper-side) plug stock, in case we ever sell it.

What have you all done to deal with this? I rarely run anything off of 12V. If we need power, we are either camping with shore-power, or we run the Honda, or the on-board Onan. So, the only thing the house battery does is power the occasional light, water-pump, or F-Fan. Would that be okay to run off the 7-pin in the bed?

Worst case scenario, I'll run the hot/ground wires again, and splice into the truck harness again for the directionals, unless there's a cleaner solution. All thoughts/ideas/tutorials welcome and appreciated.

Thank you,

Don
2003 Ford F-350 LB DRW 6.0 PSD, Ride-Rites
TorkLift SuperHitch with 3' Ext., FastGuns and Stable Loads,
Lance 880, Bison 3H Slant LQ GN, 1953 Chris-Craft 18' Sportsman
7 REPLIES 7

SugarHillCTD
Explorer
Explorer
Don,

Solder all the connections- that's what I did, then vinyl electrical tape. Chances are any other attempt will fail at some point- as you noted, pretty nasty environment under any vehicle.
John & Cathy
'12 Chevy 2500HD CC 4x4 sb
'16 Cougar 25RKS w/ Andersen rail mount
'13 Eagle Cap 850 (sold). B4 that a few other TCs and a TT

2Gordons
Explorer
Explorer
sleepy wrote:
Leave the Lance installed alone... ad what you want along side...

It the future you'll have both to choose from.


This was my first inclination, but it would be nice to have the convenience of just using one of the 7-pins that are already there. Having said that, I am not opposed to putting the 6-pin back in.

Question: I am fine running the 8-ga power and ground. I had previously just tapped into the truck wiring harness in the frame-rails with the splice connectors (for the turn signals and clearance lights). Then, wrapped everything up tight with electrical tape. I did this in the area at the front of the bed of the truck.

Is there a cleaner, preferred method of tapping into these lines? As much as you try to keep it all weather-sealed, it's exposed to the nastiness on WI's salted winter roads.

Where/how do you all make these connections?

Also- What type of an isolator do you all think is best on the power
circuit?

Thank you.

Don
2003 Ford F-350 LB DRW 6.0 PSD, Ride-Rites
TorkLift SuperHitch with 3' Ext., FastGuns and Stable Loads,
Lance 880, Bison 3H Slant LQ GN, 1953 Chris-Craft 18' Sportsman

turboo
Explorer
Explorer
mkirsch wrote:
If you're that bothered, there is nothing saying you can't "break out" the 12V power and ground leads and run them separately with the heavy wire and some heavy Anderson Powerpole connectors.


you have to run from the fuse box under the trucks hood to the back of the truck otherwise you're relying the trucks undersized wiring.

JPM

sleepy
Explorer
Explorer
Leave the Lance installed alone... ad what you want along side...

No mistakes

It the future you'll have both to choose from.
2003 Lance 1161,/slideout/AGM batteries/255W Solar/propane generator/Sat dish/2 Fantastic Fans/AC/winter pkg
AirFoil, Trimetric, LED lights, Platcat vent heat

2003GMC K3500 LT/Crewcab/duramax diesel/allison/dually/4x4/OnStar/front reciever mounted spare

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
If you're that bothered, there is nothing saying you can't "break out" the 12V power and ground leads and run them separately with the heavy wire and some heavy Anderson Powerpole connectors.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

SugarHillCTD
Explorer
Explorer
When we bought our 855s Lance, we had the dealer change out the Lance plug for a conventional 7 pin. I don't have an 8 ga. wire to the outlet- that is only really needed if the refrigerator is running on 12v. Others will point out that the TC batteries won't charge as fast, but I never had a problem there. Besides the camper spends most nights on 110v.

I'm not worried about if/when we sell it, not that much to change it back.

But your plan sounds OK too.
John & Cathy
'12 Chevy 2500HD CC 4x4 sb
'16 Cougar 25RKS w/ Andersen rail mount
'13 Eagle Cap 850 (sold). B4 that a few other TCs and a TT

Super_Dave
Explorer
Explorer
The purpose of the heavy gauge power wire is to maximize the battery charging while driving down the road. Stock truck harnesses are not that heavy and a lot of us get by with it. Considering the type of camping you do, I see no reason you can't get by with what you are planning.
Truck: 2006 Dodge 3500 Dually
Rig: 2018 Big Country 3155 RLK
Boat: 21' North River Seahawk