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Need more length on safety chains!

Brett_K
Explorer
Explorer
I need a bit more length on the safety chains on my hitch. I found some links with the nut that closes over the opening at Tractor Supply rated at 3500 lbs. it looks thicker than my chain links. The wet weight on my trailer is about 7000. Is this a safe fix?
19 REPLIES 19

AH64ID
Explorer
Explorer
It would have been harder, and involved welding, to replace the chain on my TT. Not sure about others.
-John

2018 Ram 3500-SRW-4x4-Laramie-CCLB-Aisin-Auto Level-5th Wheel Prep-Titan 55 gal tank-B&W RVK3600

2011 Outdoors RV Wind River 275SBS-some minor mods

Ole_Man_Dan
Explorer
Explorer
BobsYourUncle wrote:
I would replace the whole chain. They are not that expensive.
Remember, a chain is as strong as its weakest link!


It's too easy to replace the chain. Don't mess with half measures that may or may not work. Remember to cut it long so you can cross the chains. Yrs. ago I had a 10' Shasta trailer come off the ball and the crossed chains caught the tongue in their cradle.
I was fortunate. Low speed, and no damage to my truck or to the old Shasta. I've run with crossed chains ever since.

johndeerefarmer
Explorer III
Explorer III
johndeerefarmer wrote:
Bucky Badger wrote:
My chains were just a little too small I used these on my hitch

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/226703-double-hh-straight-clevis.html#.U0WlVfldWiQ



I would not use a clevis or the threaded chain link a few posts above. On the clevis if the hair pin comes out you will lose the clevis and I don't trust the threaded connector to stay tight unless you tack weld it closed.
Either replace the chains entirely or use a cold shut. You buy one size larger than your chain to get the same strength- they aren't as strong as the chain because they are not hardened. If they were you couldn't bend them or peen them over.
You put your new piece of chain and the end of old one in a vice and squeeze until the end comes through the eye. Then take a ball peen hammer and "peen over" the end (mushroom it so that it can't come back through the hole.

We have used these on the farm for years on our 3/8", 5/16" and 1/4" chains. They work good.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/45205;jsessionid=JfJ2TmxdTvwmpG3fvLQ9YDt9bGGnGyCy24T6bD...
2020 Ford 350 6.7 PSD & 2017 F150 3.5 EB max tow
GD Reflection 29rs

johndeerefarmer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Double post
2020 Ford 350 6.7 PSD & 2017 F150 3.5 EB max tow
GD Reflection 29rs

Heavy_Metal_Doc
Explorer
Explorer
Brett K wrote:
I need a bit more length on the safety chains on my hitch. I found some links with the nut that closes over the opening at Tractor Supply rated at 3500 lbs. it looks thicker than my chain links. The wet weight on my trailer is about 7000. Is this a safe fix?


They will be fine. Being safe is one thing, but you don't need to go overboard. You are not going to lift the 7000lb trailer off the ground by one of those rings, you just need to maintain a connection between the tow vehicle and the trailer in case of a coupler failure / separation. If you have a hard enough jerk to yank one of the 3500LB links apart, then you will likely either rip the chain off the trailer frame (3/16" steel tubing trailer frame is not that strong), or pull the safety loop off the receiver hitch of your TV. Keep in mind most parts like these screw links have a working rating stamped on them and the test "burst" strength is much higher - on many parts that rating 2 1/2 times the rated number.

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
I think the Hensley Hitch Company sells a chain extender kit. It is often needed when using one of their hitches as they increase the distance between trailer and truck. I would give them a call.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
When the chains came up short on my truck, the dealer put one of those links on each of my chain/truck connection points. They are thicker than the chain link and earier to connect the snap hooks to.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

AH64ID
Explorer
Explorer
It took a while, but if finally got a pic.

-John

2018 Ram 3500-SRW-4x4-Laramie-CCLB-Aisin-Auto Level-5th Wheel Prep-Titan 55 gal tank-B&W RVK3600

2011 Outdoors RV Wind River 275SBS-some minor mods

AH64ID
Explorer
Explorer
I had to add about 9" to each chain on my TT.

I looked at replacing the whole chain but the attachment point on the trailer is welded, so whether you replace the chain or add links you are putting in a some sort of clasp, opening chain, etc.

I went to Lowe's and bought some "H" links. They are the ones that have a pin on each side and are held on with a cotter key. They where rated higher than similar sized repair links, thou I am not sure I don't want them breaking in some crash sequences....
-John

2018 Ram 3500-SRW-4x4-Laramie-CCLB-Aisin-Auto Level-5th Wheel Prep-Titan 55 gal tank-B&W RVK3600

2011 Outdoors RV Wind River 275SBS-some minor mods

Bucky_Badger
Explorer
Explorer
My chains were just a little too small I used these on my hitch

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/226703-double-hh-straight-clevis.html#.U0WlVfldWiQ

2010 F150 5.4, 3.55, 4x4, Equli-z-er Hitch
2007 Forest River Salem 27RB LE
and
2009 Nomad 3980

Nvr2loud
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have BROKEN many of the repair type chain links you describe. I have used them for rigging on my UTV to pull stuck vehicles out of the mud. I have also used them for the lifting mechanism on my snow blower attachment for my tractor. They are very easy to work with, but easily snap at the threads and pull apart under shock force. I WOULD not trust them for my trailer chains. They work great to the rated forces when the forces are applied slowly, they quickly break when those same forces are applied rapidly (and how rapid would a travel trail pulling off the hitch be?)

Replace the entire chain instead.

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would also go with a complete new chain and then attach it with a good strong nut and bolt to each side of the A-frame. this will be a much better fix and be stronger than when it left the factory. just look at that little welded bar they are attached to on some trailers!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

GaryWT
Explorer
Explorer
I use to have clamps like the one burbman uses hanging off the back of the truck. The holes on the hitch were too small for the chain hooks so I put these on so I could connect the chains.
ME '63, DW 64, (DS 89 tents on his own, DD 92 not so much), DS 95
2013 Premier Bullet 31 BHPR 2014 F350 Crew Cab 6.2L 3.73

DougE
Explorer
Explorer
Really, to keep it a clean installation, Home Depot sells chain by the foot.
Currently Between RVs