Something Ive always wanted, folding ladder, but could never justify cost, storing, just no real practical need.
However recently installed WiFi then cell antennas and realized if I had an auxiliary ladder I wouldn't need to get on
roof to raise. Margaret agreed so picked a GP Logistics SLD-D7 Double Sided Folding Ladder - 7' ladder.
These fold like a standard step ladder but also fold at mid of rungs collapsing to 3 1/4" X 4 1/4" X 7'.
To mount I placed on bumper against campers ladder.
Made a small box to capture bottom of ladder rails.
Bent an aluminum bar to secure with extra Torklift lock. Also using ratchet to snug against rattling.
Surprisingly worked out well, functional, easy to retrieve and replace. But...
Other than appearance, couple of other things I don't like. Primarily its location, living out side exposed to the
elements, road wash. Second is it will need to be removed to access the generator, or retrieve the scooter ramp.
It totally blocks the porch light, and we can no longer carry the factory flip over step. Its used to access main ladder.
Functional, but day to day I think it will be a pain.
Looking at options decided if I rearranged the stuff in basement tray it might live in there. Wouldn't be as
convenient, but then I noted the area between the tray and generator, again. Ive always wondered about the
space.
Probably 2/3rds of our campers basement area is unused, inaccessible.
From an older thread-discussion was about utilizing some of this space with marine type floor deck lid.
Never persued but now looking again..
All I would need is door large enough for ladder (red) and pretty confident the space between tray and
generator is empty (green). Though not enough to cut wall and find out it isn't.
Then it occurred to me, Removing the tray I could cut an access hole thru divider wall, poke a camera inside
and see to verify.
I hate jig saws. Cutting blind, blade took off, Ill clean this up later, cut another piece of ply
with a hole to reinforce.
Access hole...
Max length due to captcha- continued
Thanks wnjj, Yes my physical install is documented on our home page. I rarely point to it other than the sig
link as it outlines as much that didn't work as did. Id think difficult to glean any info as far as decision making.
For the WiFi I used the Ubiquiti NanoStation M2 system that msiminoff outlined in aidwillis thread on his WiFi setup.
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29582693.cfm
Mounted outside antenna, it's directional, on the Winegard- to point.
On the cell I ended up going with the (Wilson Electronics) Weboost RG-X RV. I havnt added any thread info.
Its pretty expensive and its difficult to get enough separation between inside & outside antenna (on a truck camper).
So far I'm impressed but haven't any on the road use yet.
I ended up putting outside antenna on ~4' mast but didn't want extra setup of assembling /raising so its on a ratchet mount.
Also wanted it at rear of camper for access.
So that's where aux. ladder came in. I can reach either semi permanent mounted antenna from perimeter of camper.
Weboost makes the same system but with smaller antennas that can be mounted closer to each other.
Wanted to maximize signal- and limited research kept leading me back to the Weboost. There likely is equal
systems that may cost less- I just wasn't having any luck finding a lot of positive info for cell use.
Hatched!
No idea why camera shows it so gray- actually more brown. A bit more work to install than anticipated.
Cut small hole to verify placement. Traced hatch cut out pattern
Then cut hole 1/4" too small all around? Had to go back and re-cut opening up hole, twice
not fun but got it.
And the main reason for hatch-access to end of ladder storage. Blocks to contain side to side
Bulkhead to limit forward movement.
Was going to do full height but thought access to end of compartment could come in handy.
Floor support is about 4" back from cut so floor doesn't need it.
May add a removable upright though so if floor does flex doesn't pull hatch flange screw.
Inside 'new' compartment added 1x2s to keep tool box away from front/exterior walls, protects drain hose.
The front though actually attaches front plywood divider to floor.
Discovered it was simply hanging out there, no attachment past floor vertical support?
Bait Well! Mopped interior with white primer to better see inside
Liking it, allowed finishing ladder box, and now with storage for it no longer shuffling the tool box around.
No idea why camera shows it so gray- actually more brown. A bit more work to install than anticipated.
Cut small hole to verify placement. Traced hatch cut out pattern
Then cut hole 1/4" too small all around? Had to go back and re-cut opening up hole, twice
not fun but got it.
And the main reason for hatch-access to end of ladder storage. Blocks to contain side to side
Bulkhead to limit forward movement.
Was going to do full height but thought access to end of compartment could come in handy.
Floor support is about 4" back from cut so floor doesn't need it.
May add a removable upright though so if floor does flex doesn't pull hatch flange screw.
Inside 'new' compartment added 1x2s to keep tool box away from front/exterior walls, protects drain hose.
The front though actually attaches front plywood divider to floor.
Discovered it was simply hanging out there, no attachment past floor vertical support?
Bait Well! Mopped interior with white primer to better see inside
Liking it, allowed finishing ladder box, and now with storage for it no longer shuffling the tool box around.
Captcha....
Ha, thanks. Well maybe if I hadn't ended up going to install floor hatch- additional project but this could still go
very wrong. And given difference in campers (ie no rear vertical studs below main floor) this likely not a
universal project. Though most basement campers, lot of unused space. Yes, perfect place for ladder though.
Even the floor hatch to access- without seeing structure underneath don't know how you would place? Which is
why I hadn't pursued before.
Hatch is supposed to be here this morning. Other than showing off new ladder is accessing the basement to
store it. Inability to create a stop thru the 6" hole led to adding the hatch. (kept seeing a 7' 25# battering ram
trying to enter water tank).
Will give me about a 24x12x8 deep area to use but mostly to access & isolate new basement storage for ladder.
Margaret wants me to try and have it swing with latches on inside or toward wall. Kinda makes sense not having
bare feet heel standing on them- Not sure if door swing will clear the skirt on slide out though-Actually unsure if it
swings 180ยฐ..TBD.
Cut out for hatch is 9 1/2 wide OPPS-10 1/2"x15" cut out, distance between outer wall and inner floor support is 13".
Placing as far away from outside wall while having hatch lip inside of inner support gives me 3" of contiguous floor.
Lengthwise will be centered more or less in front of refrigerator.
Adding bulkhead for ladder compartment will support floor. At inside or where we would stand on hatch lid, will be
on the inner stringer. Reinforcing the water tank bulkhead, I should hopefully all in all...not have compromised
anything. Getting antsy plotting without hatch..
Hatch arrived!
Ha, thanks. Well maybe if I hadn't ended up going to install floor hatch- additional project but this could still go
very wrong. And given difference in campers (ie no rear vertical studs below main floor) this likely not a
universal project. Though most basement campers, lot of unused space. Yes, perfect place for ladder though.
Even the floor hatch to access- without seeing structure underneath don't know how you would place? Which is
why I hadn't pursued before.
Hatch is supposed to be here this morning. Other than showing off new ladder is accessing the basement to
store it. Inability to create a stop thru the 6" hole led to adding the hatch. (kept seeing a 7' 25# battering ram
trying to enter water tank).
Will give me about a 24x12x8 deep area to use but mostly to access & isolate new basement storage for ladder.
Margaret wants me to try and have it swing with latches on inside or toward wall. Kinda makes sense not having
bare feet heel standing on them- Not sure if door swing will clear the skirt on slide out though-Actually unsure if it
swings 180ยฐ..TBD.
Cut out for hatch is 9 1/2 wide OPPS-10 1/2"x15" cut out, distance between outer wall and inner floor support is 13".
Placing as far away from outside wall while having hatch lip inside of inner support gives me 3" of contiguous floor.
Lengthwise will be centered more or less in front of refrigerator.
Adding bulkhead for ladder compartment will support floor. At inside or where we would stand on hatch lid, will be
on the inner stringer. Reinforcing the water tank bulkhead, I should hopefully all in all...not have compromised
anything. Getting antsy plotting without hatch..
Hatch arrived!
