“NOOB” questions about how TC electronics work?

[SuaveGato]

Hello,
I have a “new to me” Arctic fox TC and I am trying to learn, figure out, wrap my brain around how all of the electric systems work? If anyone can please confirm, deny and or add to my synopsis below that would be great, thank you.

The TC has the following:
• Master power auto switch
• Shore power
• Generator
• Dual 12V DC batteries
• Solar panel on roof
• Battery cut off switch
• Inverter

SHORE POWER
I assume the auto switch detects shore power and makes it primary, powering all of the appliances, 110V outlets, etc. Does this also charge the 12V batteries? If so, then I assume I have on board battery charger somewhere? Also assume it shuts off or down to a trickle charge when the batteries are full?

GENERATOR
I assume when running the generator and NOT on shore power, the auto switch then makes the generator primary powering all of the appliances, 110V outlets, etc. Does this also charge the 12V batteries? I assume it does the same thing that shore power does, just from a different source, correct? (Generac 00941-1. 3400W)

DUAL 12V DC BATTERIES / SOLAR PANEL ON ROOF
I assume I have an onboard charger for the batteries, right? Also assume it will shut off or down to a trickle when the batteries are full? Will the running truck charge the batteries? Will the solar panel charge them? If so, how? Does the solar run into the charger? Or through an inverter and then the charger? Or straight into the batteries?

BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH
What does this switch do? Completely isolate the batteries to prevent draining I assume? But, will that also prevent charging them? I.E. can I shut off that switch and keep them charged or does that switch prevent any charging?

INVERTER
I have an inverter n one of my cubby’s. What does it power? The fridge is 3 way, (propane, AC & DC) so when on DC is it really consuming AC through the inverter? There is one 110V power outlet in the inverter compartment cubby that it appears the fridge is plugged in to. So, is that outlet the ONLY one that is 110V HOT, when on the batteries / inverter or should all of my 110V outlets in the whole TC be hot?

Also, how do the lights in the TC work? I.E. are they 12V or 110V? If 12V, do they just run off of the batteries, even when on shore power? Or through a transformer perhaps?

I know this is a LOT of questions but I like to know how stuff works before going out and depending on it and to be able to fix it etc.

Thanks,
biGjOhn

[AnEv942]

The solar, unless its factory installed and someone may know more definitively how its wired (though no telling what PO might have done)
no need to pull battery(s) to check. No idea what your controller has, meter or just lights. Disconnect shore, check battery voltage. Run a fan some lights etc for a while. Solar should go to charge mode. I would check voltage out put of controller, then check at battery-should see same voltage, turn off battery cut-off, voltage should drop to standing battery voltage (not show charge input) if solar is wired thru cut off. As most controllers have an off switch-I dont know why panels would be thru main cut off though.

As to the 3way refer, and the inverter Im not quite clear. It sounds as though the inverter (12v DC to 110 AC) is wired to run the refer AC receptacle? Not common but some folks do. If thats the case the refer would be set to AC. Also, if refer is plugged into receptacle thats powered by inverter means even on shore or generator, the inverter needs to be on, unless theres another actual AC receptacle.

To use on directly on 12v DC the inverter wouldn't be used. If refer is set to DC it would be drawing directly off the battery(s) not thru inverter. Your 3663 will draw a little over 17amps in DC mode. Most trucks wont supply that and still charge batteries, So even driving its slowly drawing down batteries. You have solar input helping-but it takes a lot of diligence to use the DC mode in factory (truck charge) configuration. IE turning OFF refer when stopped-period even a few minutes. Turning off least an hour or so before arriving destination allowing battery(s) to charge etc. That said, assuming you precool the refer before a trip as already mentioned it will stay cold(ish) minimum for several hours.

Because of your curiosity and 'want to know' I recommend buying (or find a Harbor Freight "free" coupon for their $5 one) an inexpensive digital multi meter if you dont have one. Set to 20+ on the DC volt scale it will tell you exactly what you want to know on the 12v circuits. Test light would only tell you power present not if 12.2v and dropping or 13.6 & rising.
Set to 200+ on the ACv scale you can test the receptacles/inverter output-though for most all you want to know if power present and not looking at actual voltage so a AC test light (or portable power tool etc) would be sufficient on the AC stuff.

[deltabravo]

SuaveGato wrote:
Since my fridge is in fact a true 3 way, I think just to save propane I will travel in DC mode, letting the truck alternator run the fridge (through the batteries) then switch to LP or Shore when I get to where I'm going.

Saving propane is good. That's about the only reason I can think of for having a DC option on a fridge... to save propane while driving, letting the truck alternator power the fridge.

[SuaveGato]

Reddog1 wrote:
While traveling, I have been running my fridges on propane since 1972 in several different TCs.

Could be a CYA thing for the manufacture. It is conceivable the lit fridge could ignite gasoline when you are at a gas station. I am not aware of it ever happening, but possible. If I had that concern, I would simply turn the fridge off when traveling. With the door closed, the fridge will stay cold for a couple of days.

If the fridge flame went out, the igniter would relight it.

Lots of folks are concerned about turning the engine off when refueling. I have never seen a problem, and when you are fueling cars are typically all around you with the engine running.

Sounds reasonable to me, thanks. Since my fridge is in fact a true 3 way, I think just to save propane I will travel in DC mode, letting the truck alternator run the fridge (through the batteries) then switch to LP or Shore when I get to where I'm going.

[SuaveGato]

deltabravo wrote:
Your Camper may indeed have a 3 way fridge, but currently AF will only do it special order... and maybe the previous owner special ordered it that way.

Does the mode switch have three functions?

Thanks, I just checked and it was indeed special ordered and IS a 3 way. And yes, it has AC, DC & LP modes. thanks.

[Reddog1]

While traveling, I have been running my fridges on propane since 1972 in several different TCs.

Could be a CYA thing for the manufacture. It is conceivable the lit fridge could ignite gasoline when you are at a gas station. I am not aware of it ever happening, but possible. If I had that concern, I would simply turn the fridge off when traveling. With the door closed, the fridge will stay cold for a couple of days.

If the fridge flame went out, the igniter would relight it.

Lots of folks are concerned about turning the engine off when refueling. I have never seen a problem, and when you are fueling cars are typically all around you with the engine running.

[deltabravo]

Your Camper may indeed have a 3 way fridge, but currently AF will only do it special order... and maybe the previous owner special ordered it that way.

Does the mode switch have three functions?

[SuaveGato]

trail-explorer wrote:

n7bsn wrote:
The refer should be set to only run on 12VDC when the engine is running, as it will drain the batteries, quickly.

Rephrasing, so it makes better sense:

The refer should only be set to run on DC when the truck enginge is running.
or...

You should NOT run the fridge on DC anytime other than when the truck is running.


If the truck is not running, and you aren't plugged in to power, the fridge (if set to run on DC) whill drain the batteries quickly.
good to know, thank you! Assume that is because as you say, my fridge really isn't a "3 way" afterall and just has AC & propane? So, when it is in "DC" mode, it's really consuming AC through the inverter, and the inverter is pulling from DC. Right? But, with the truck engine runing, it will keep up with the 12v charging demand. Right? Also, the owner's manual says NOT to run the fridge on propane while traveling? Is that an abundance of caution that most overlook? Thnaks

You CAN also run the fridge on propane when the truck is running and travelling. THat's what everyone does that only has a 2-way fridge.

Northwood MFG (Arctic Fox) doesn't install a 3 way fridge unless it's a specail order.

[SuaveGato]

AnEv942 wrote:
Yes as mentioned you pretty much got it as others have noted.

SuaveGato wrote:


DUAL 12V DC BATTERIES / SOLAR PANEL ON ROOF
I assume I have an onboard charger for the batteries, right? (Yes) Also assume it will shut off or down to a trickle when the batteries are full? (Yes) Will the running truck charge the batteries? (That depends on how your truck is wired-need to verify but should. Also need to verify when truck off its isolated from camper so as not to drain truck battery)
Thank you, can anyone help me as to how I would go about verifying how my truck is wired for the camper for 12v output? Could I just test the camper plug in socket, while the truck is idleing for 12v output? (no truck running lights or brakes on etc.) anyone know if there is a specific wire to check and which one? Then, turn the truck off and test again, if that 12v leg is now dead, I have the isolater too? Will that work? If not, suggestions? DISREGARD THIS, I JUST FOUND IN MY PAPERWORK WHERE IT SAYS MY TRUCK IS WIRED TO POWER THE CAMPER WHEN TRAVELING, THANKS

BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH
What does this switch do? (Disconnects batteries form camper (both drain and charge) Completely isolate the batteries to prevent draining I assume? (Correct) But, will that also prevent charging them? (Correct) I.E. can I shut off that switch and keep them charged or does that switch prevent any charging? (The later is correct-no charge. However depending how solar is wired (factory?) it may be direct to battery thru its controller and NOT dissconnect with cut-off switch, need to verify)Thank you, how can I verrify how my solar is wired? Discoonect from shore power, remove batteries and test leads to batteries for 12V charging coming from solar panel? Is there perhaps an easier way without having to remove the batteries?

Also, when the TC is stored, is it best for me to leave it plugged in to shore power or just let the solar keep the batteries topped off?


INVERTER
I have an inverter n one of my cubby’s. What does it power? The fridge is 3 way, (propane, AC & DC) so when on DC is it really consuming AC through the inverter? There is one 110V power outlet in the inverter compartment cubby that it appears the fridge is plugged in to. So, is that outlet the ONLY one that is 110V HOT, when on the batteries / inverter or should all of my 110V outlets in the whole TC be hot? (That cant really help, depends on how its hooked up. Need to verify what is powered by it)
Ok, thnaks. Sounds like I just need to go a test light into the outlets on different power sources and see what comes on?


Thanks,
biGjOhn

[SuaveGato]

Thanks everyone for the thoughtful replies. Looks like I'm on way to wraping my brain around this. I still have a few followup questions but will do that individually in quotes.
THANKS AGAIN EVERYBODY!

P.S. Looks like an LED change out is in my future too, thanks!

[Reddog1]

I have a 3-way Fridge. Other than testing, I never run it on 12-volts. When my TC is in storage (my home), I run the fridge on 120-volts. When on the road or camping I run the fridge on propane. This has worked well for me for over ten years.

I installed a switch between my truck 12-volt and TC. I leave it off, and would only turn it on in an emergency. Fortunately, I have never needed the truck 12-volt system connected to my TC, but with the switch I have that option. I use only one 100 AH AGM battery in the TC, with 130-watts of solar. I do have the Honda for backup.

[trail-explorer]

n7bsn wrote:
The refer should be set to only run on 12VDC when the engine is running, as it will drain the batteries, quickly.

Rephrasing, so it makes better sense:

The refer should only be set to run on DC when the truck enginge is running.
or...

You should NOT run the fridge on DC anytime other than when the truck is running.


If the truck is not running, and you aren't plugged in to power, the fridge (if set to run on DC) whill drain the batteries quickly.

You CAN also run the fridge on propane when the truck is running and travelling. THat's what everyone does that only has a 2-way fridge.

Northwood MFG (Arctic Fox) doesn't install a 3 way fridge unless it's a specail order.

[trail-explorer]

camperpaul wrote:
If you are going to be doing more than a little camping "off the grid" you will want to replace the 921s with LEDs.

I upgraded to LEDs a few years ago. I got mine from here

Here's my thread from when I upgraded.

My interior LED Upgrade

[deltabravo]

camperpaul wrote:
Most, if not all of your lights are 12 Volts (usually nbr. 921 lamps).

1141 is another common bulb in interior lights. 921 is more common in campers newer than 3 years old or so.

[AnEv942]

Yes as mentioned you pretty much got it as others have noted.

SuaveGato wrote:
Hello,
..SHORE POWER
I assume the auto switch detects shore power and makes it primary, powering all of the appliances, 110V outlets, etc. (Correct) Does this also charge the 12V batteries? (Yes) If so, then I assume I have on board battery charger somewhere? (Yes) Also assume it shuts off or down to a trickle charge when the batteries are full? (Yes-well it should)

GENERATOR
I assume when running the generator and NOT on shore power, the auto switch then makes the generator primary powering all of the appliances, 110V outlets, etc. (Correct) Does this also charge the 12V batteries? (Yes) I assume it does the same thing that shore power does, just from a different source, correct? (Generac 00941-1. 3400W)(Correct)

DUAL 12V DC BATTERIES / SOLAR PANEL ON ROOF
I assume I have an onboard charger for the batteries, right? (Yes) Also assume it will shut off or down to a trickle when the batteries are full? (Yes) Will the running truck charge the batteries? (That depends on how your truck is wired-need to verify but should. Also need to verify when truck off its isolated from camper so as not to drain truck battery) Will the solar panel charge them? (Yes) If so, how? (Panel output runs thru solar controller that regulates charge) Does the solar run into the charger? (No)Or through an inverter and then the charger? (No) Or straight into the batteries? (Yes, but as mentioned thru the solar controller)

BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH
What does this switch do? (Disconnects batteries form camper (both drain and charge) Completely isolate the batteries to prevent draining I assume? (Correct) But, will that also prevent charging them? (Correct) I.E. can I shut off that switch and keep them charged or does that switch prevent any charging? (The later is correct-no charge. However depending how solar is wired (factory?) it may be direct to battery thru its controller and NOT dissconnect with cut-off switch, need to verify)

INVERTER
I have an inverter n one of my cubby’s. What does it power? The fridge is 3 way, (propane, AC & DC) so when on DC is it really consuming AC through the inverter? There is one 110V power outlet in the inverter compartment cubby that it appears the fridge is plugged in to. So, is that outlet the ONLY one that is 110V HOT, when on the batteries / inverter or should all of my 110V outlets in the whole TC be hot? (That cant really help, depends on how its hooked up. Need to verify what is powered by it)

Also, how do the lights in the TC work? I.E. are they 12V or 110V? (12V) If 12V, do they just run off of the batteries, even when on shore power? (Yes) Or through a transformer perhaps? (No-they run off battery,

I know this is a LOT of questions but I like to know how stuff works before going out and depending on it and to be able to fix it etc.

Thanks,
biGjOhn

Multi meters your friend and will help identify most questions, especially if field fixing. Biggest one I question is the inverter and its purpose.

[n7bsn]

Generally (in my 99 and 2012 AF) Northwoods puts a Progress Dynamics charger (usually with Charge Wizard, but not always with the manual controller)

The cut-off switch isolates the batteries, no charging, no noting.

The refer should be set to only run on 12VDC when the engine is running, as it will drain the batteries, quickly. It should also auto switch to AC if the gen-set or shore-power are present.

Generally Northwoods wires the Solar Panels with it's own charge controller. The PD charger will NOT work with the solar.