Not sure upper stableloads are right for me (UPDATED)

[Sliding-into-ho]

(UPDATE 10/23/2019 here: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29794168/gotomsg/29988533.cfm#29988533 Safe to say the upper stableloads were NOT causing any issues that I didn't have already, but the stock shocks very likely were. Upgrades continue! Big thanks to the massive wealth of knowledge on this board. In the first page of responses alone, pretty much all the relevant considerations were addressed. You Rock! Thanks also to Torklift who reached out and went the extra mile to help me get dialed in.)

Rig: 2017 F350, SRW, FX4.
Tire sticker 3243lb
Rear GAWR: 7230lb
TC: NL 9-6, 2600 Dry, 2900 Wet

The only suspension mod the dealer installed is upper stable loads. I wanted the lowers, but they said they don't install them because they don't want to deal with the drilling.

I've never hauled a TC before, but plenty of heavy trailers. The stable loads don't feel quite right. If you've ever ridden in a New York taxi cab in the 80's or 90's (you know... the Ford Tauruses and Lincoln Town Cars with shot suspensions), that's sort of the sensation: floaty, bouncy, vague, disconnected.

I wouldn't say there's a lot of sway in terms of magnitude of movement, but when it does sway, it bounces back and forth from side to side.

My hunch is simple: my rig may not be quite heavy enough to warrant full size stable loads, which engage too much of the upper overload spring (lower spring rate) and not enough of the higher spring-rate lower overload. I suspect this is why Torklift unequivocally recommends lower stable loads first. But to be clear, I don't have any experience with this and these are just guesses.

The rear fender is 1-2 inches higher than the front fender, depending on the load, for what it's worth.

Here are a few things that I would try next, but if you feel like you know a more ideal solution, please let me know:

1. Remove stable loads and get a baseline for how the truck handles fully stock. After all, I'm under my door sticker weight (I've removed a propane tank and the heavy rear patio).

2. Shave an inch or two off the stable load blocks

3. Uninstall stable loads and, assuming too much sag/roll, upgrade shocks to rancho adjustable and add Hellwig Big Wig.

4. Last option would be air bags, which would probably only need minimal inflation.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

[Bedlam]

If you do not have an OEM stabiliizer bar already, get the Hellwig BigWig. I ran upper and lower StableLoads for a 4000 LB camper.

[sbryan]

I have a similar setup with a heavier TC (3,600 wet) and have just the upper stable loads and don't have the issues you describe. The truck should be similar (mine is a CCLB F350 diesel, 2013).

Here what I did to accommodate the camper and achieve a comfortable handling truck:

Upper stable loads
Sumo springs
Upgraded all shocks to Bilsteins
Added a sway bar (Fords OEM) which wasn't an option when I ordered the truck
Upgraded from the crappy Michelins to Nokian Rotiiva AT Plus tires rated to 3,750 pounds.
I have Fastguns and Talon frame mounts.

Does the truck feel different with the camper on? Of course, but after 20,000+ miles I am very comfortable with the way it handles. It did take a little getting used to (I clearly remember the first trips locally where I was still nervous about the whole set up). But today I am accustomed to the feel of the rig on and off road. The truck rides like a brick empty but that's the price of preparing for the load I put on her. I am about 800 pounds over my GVWR but under both front a rear axle ratings. Some would say I am over the GVWR and therefore unsafe. Everyone has an opinion - I am very happy with my choice.

[emcvay]

Something is amiss I think.

I have a 2010 F350 SRW XLT PS CC LB and find the uppers are very good and I don't really need the lowers. Engaging the uppers brings in a heavy overload spring as soon as the camper is on the truck and I could do away with the air bags (though I do use them with about 20psi in them but still am not sure I need to. I've had them as low as 10 and as high as 30psi and still can't see the difference).

I can engage the lower stable loads but the lowers engage with the AF990 on anyway so really it's just keeping them engaged during spring travel over bumps etc.

The sway and rock have more to do with the shocks not handling the heavy weight so I added Rancho 9000's (adjustable)and it's a BIG improvement. I also added the Hellwig BigWig rear swaybar which helped even more. Now I'm very happy.

If it were me, in order of what I think made the most difference this is what I think would be worth doing:

1. Make sure tires are up to the job
2. Upper Stable Loads
3. Heavy Duty adjustable shocks
4. Heavy rear sway bar
5. Lower Stable Loads
6. Air Bags -- mostly for towing so you can keep the truck level or when you need to level with a heavy camper.

Your rear end on an F350 is set by the factory 2" higher than the front. This is normal.


Here I am with a camper that is 1000lbs heavier (or perhaps 1500 if your weights are scale weights and accurate -- don't go by what the Manufacturer tells you)

[jimh406]

I doubt the bouncing is from the Stableloads. Airbags will disengage the overloads which is the opposite of what you want.

A few questions, what air pressure are you running? I suggest 80 rear and probably 70-75 front. In spite of people saying their rigs handle great, it’s going to feel different than what you are used to. Are you sure the fastguns if you have them are adjusted right?

BTW, I wouldn’t remove a propane tank. It’s not going to be fun to be out of propane on the mtn. I doubt the propane tank is going to change the handle significantly. But, it will stink to not be able to have the fridge, stove, heat.

FWIW, don’t remove extra batteries either if you have two.