On Battery, lights ok; slide, awning & jack kill battery

[jerendeb-CLIF]

I have searched here but couldn't find an exact situation that I have.

2014 Keystone Bullet Premier

• did a reverse polarity by accident!
• Polarity fuses didn't burn out
• 3v Refrigerator Controller Fuse burned out and replaced. (Frig Works)
• replaced battery
• replaced Power Converter
• replaced Polarity Fuses
• cleaned battery terminals

On shore power everything is good.
On Tow Vehicle Power everything is good.
On Battery, lights come on dim, then if I switch them on and off they come up bright.
Battery 2/3 on monitor.
On Battery, try slide, 'kills' battery. Same with Jack & Awning.
Not sure what to try next.

Can't locate any 'hidden' fuses. Are there any?
All 15 AMP fuses good.

Take battery back and get a more powerful one?

Battery is a:
Duralast is a 24MD-DL
Cranking Amps 1000 with 115 Reserve Capacity.

Thanks,

JERE

[westend]

Is there anyway to test a power converter without full installation?

Yes, a converter can be bench tested using a meter and either dummy loads or a known value, non-inductive load.

I'd suggest to keep your new converter installed and keep the old one for emergency backup or as a battery tender/charger at home.

[beemerphile1]

jerendeb-CLIF wrote:
...Is there anyway to test a power converter without full installation?

Easy, hook it up to power and check the dc output.

[jerendeb-CLIF]

I just returned from AUTO-ZONE. Turns out the new Battery I just bought Saturday was BAD. They tested the replacement, just in case.

Now I wonder if I should remove the new Power Converter and reinstall the original to see if that was good or not. I suppose my time is worth a return to Amazon.

Is there anyway to test a power converter without full installation?

[pianotuna]

There may be an automatic circuit breaker. It may have burned contacts that are limiting current. They are often quite close to the battery bank.

Check for continuity between the battery and the DC power distribution center.

Check to see if battery voltage rises when the RV is plugged into shore power.

Check the grounds.

[KD4UPL]

Is this a deep cycle battery? From the specs you gave I would assume it's a starting battery. Even if it is, it still shouldn't behave as you describe. Get the battery checked.

[NMDriver2]

N2ZPY wrote:
Sounds to me like the battery is shot. Lights are a small load. By trying the jacks and slide you are putting a bigger amperage draw on the battery and it can't supply what is needed to run those loads.

Kevin

X2 you have volts but no amps is sounds like. On a meter the battery will show 12 or more volts but it is not providing amps enough to do any work. Take it to a WalMart or Autozone, etc and have them check it under load.

[beemerphile1]

Bad battery or bad connections. Check/clean the negative battery cable connection to frame.

[Mandalay_Parr]

Is your battery a deep cycle?

[Old-Biscuit]

Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter..not those 'monitor lights' (2/3. --2/3 of WHAT)

Check that battery ground cable is connected to frame and is clean/tight



Your battery needs charging....or is faulty
take it to an Auto Parts Store and have it 'Load Tested'

[kerrlakeRoo]

Lights are a low draw, the other functions are much higher, check for corrosion on the battery and the main ground connections. Corrosion can kill a link on high draw but allow low draw to still function.

[N2ZPY]

Sounds to me like the battery is shot. Lights are a small load. By trying the jacks and slide you are putting a bigger amperage draw on the battery and it can't supply what is needed to run those loads.

Kevin

[downtheroad]

Jack and slide motors pull a lot more 12v power than lights...
Sounds like a weak battery either not fully charged or is not being charged by the converter...is the converter supplying a charge to the batts? This is easy to check with a multi-meter.

There are a couple of blade fuses on a converter (mine has 3).

Good luck with you search of the infamous electric gremlin...